What have you done to your A4 b6 today?

Wahlstrom

Registered User
Removed rear wiper.. bought two delete kits as the rear window has to be replaced when I'm getting the tailgate fixed and painted. Got some rust just below the glass

83f42e443b3d25c18bf9cbcef2e53cf1.jpg
 

Wahlstrom

Registered User
But ours are 433mhz.
Probably won't work.

The alarm should be in the rear right quart panel inside the boot liner..
Of it works let me know.. I'll definitely change my key again..

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Recieved it today.. I'm so sad.. It's all brand new and feels and looks so good, but can't use it

What is the exact part number for a usable B7 key???

Broke the B6 immo chip, when I tried to get it out.
The one in the B7 key is new and never coded.
But read that B7 immo's don't work with a B6 car..

 

SemedoB6

Black and white a4
Recieved it today.. I'm so sad.. It's all brand new and feels and looks so good, but can't use it

What is the exact part number for a usable B7 key???

Broke the B6 immo chip, when I tried to get it out.
The one in the B7 key is new and never coded.
But read that B7 immo's don't work with a B6 car..

Is it genuine?
Because I have a b7 key and it worked..
The part number is under the blade.. Open the key and should be there..

8E0 837 220 E
that's the part number on mine and works a treat..

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Wahlstrom

Registered User
Is it genuine?
Because I have a b7 key and it worked..
The part number is under the blade.. Open the key and should be there..

8E0 837 220 E
that's the part number on mine and works a treat..

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Yes it's genuine.
But because I was looking at an US diy I ordered it with 315 mhz..

Also, I broke the one of two B6 keys immo chips.
Now I've read that a virgin B7 chip doesn't work on a B6?!
 

SemedoB6

Black and white a4
Don't know about the chip.. I used the one from my key and only have one..
Although I have another chip here I think from a b6 also and if I find a way to code it to my b6 I would get another key..

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Wahlstrom

Registered User
Don't know about the chip.. I used the one from my key and only have one..
Although I have another chip here I think from a b6 also and if I find a way to code it to my b6 I would get another key..

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I've read that only dealer or auto locksmith can recode them..
Not doable via VCDS.. is what I've read
 

SemedoB6

Black and white a4
I've read that only dealer or auto locksmith can recode them..
Not doable via VCDS.. is what I've read
Unfortunately me too..
I wish I could do it with VCDS.
I didn't know the locksmith could do it..
But have you any idea how much that costs roughly?

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Nutrienthorse

Registered User
In my second consecutive car stuff day, I achieved a lot!
Took the car to get a puncture repaired; the guy owns a b7 and complemented me on the condition of my b6 - first time that's happened, made my day! The car had locking wheel bolts but no key, luckily they were familiar with the hammer socket smash technique QuattroCalum told me about.
IMG_4818.JPG
Then went to get some new wheel bolts.
Polished the exhaust trim after waxing the car yesterday, but the photo is so crap you'd never know, so I'll skip that one.
And finally, milky chrome window trim was going to be sprayed black until it was saved!
IMG_4814.JPG
I am pleased!
 

Nutrienthorse

Registered User
What did you do the chrome trim with ?
Rustoleum metallic chrome spray paint. Apparently it's for metals and plastics, the can has a horrible chrome cap on it with a sticker saying the paint doesn't actually look like the cap. It looks more like aluminium but it's good. I'm going to use primer when I do the rest and re-do this bit.
 

Jonni3

Is making it faster a bad thing ?
Have been looking for S4 cab carbon interior trim & was pretty put off by the price.
Thought about going the vinyl wrap route but ultimately this didn't appeal, so I looked into an EasyComposites carbon fibre skinning kit. It's basically carbon fibre cloth with the various resins required.
So got myself the large kit & got busy with it.
IMG_20170518_1227401.jpg

Striped out the interior trim & gave it a good clean with IPA then keyed the surface ready for the base resin, it looks clean but the trim had scratches & marks that where kinda niggling me.
IMG_20170518_1147131.jpg


Base resin down, carbon cloth & first coat of clear resin on & high spots knocked down as far as I dared.

IMG_20170520_09534111.jpg


After another coat or 2 of resin & a wet n dry sanding session, one last coat of resin.
IMG_20170520_2034341.jpg


Waited for that coat to cure then hit it with 800 the 1200 wet n dry, then a 2 stage machine buff & fitted.
IMG_20170521_1603261.jpg


Finally done, it came out ok there are a few bits I could have done better. This stuff is seriously fiddly to work with ... flat panels are great to do but the door trims are a pita due to there directional curves. The curing times are long, 8 hours + which explains why it took 4 days to do 8 trim pieces :blink:.... and when handling it after you have to be uber careful as it will mark very easily as I found out.
Oh also had my steering wheel recovered by Royal steering wheels, perforated sides, nappa top & bottom, red stitching.
Next thing to replace is the gear knob, always thought it looked pants ...RS4 ones are nice but again very pricey for a gear knob, any suggestions for you guys on gear knobs would be appreciated.
 

DrStrange

Registered User
Have been looking for S4 cab carbon interior trim & was pretty put off by the price.
Thought about going the vinyl wrap route but ultimately this didn't appeal, so I looked into an EasyComposites carbon fibre skinning kit. It's basically carbon fibre cloth with the various resins required.
So got myself the large kit & got busy with it.
View attachment 126212
Striped out the interior trim & gave it a good clean with IPA then keyed the surface ready for the base resin, it looks clean but the trim had scratches & marks that where kinda niggling me.
View attachment 126211

Base resin down, carbon cloth & first coat of clear resin on & high spots knocked down as far as I dared.

View attachment 126215

After another coat or 2 of resin & a wet n dry sanding session, one last coat of resin.
View attachment 126216

Waited for that coat to cure then hit it with 800 the 1200 wet n dry, then a 2 stage machine buff & fitted.
View attachment 126217

Finally done, it came out ok there are a few bits I could have done better. This stuff is seriously fiddly to work with ... flat panels are great to do but the door trims are a pita due to there directional curves. The curing times are long, 8 hours + which explains why it took 4 days to do 8 trim pieces :blink:.... and when handling it after you have to be uber careful as it will mark very easily as I found out.
Oh also had my steering wheel recovered by Royal steering wheels, perforated sides, nappa top & bottom, red stitching.
Next thing to replace is the gear knob, always thought it looked pants ...RS4 ones are nice but again very pricey for a gear knob, any suggestions for you guys on gear knobs would be appreciated.

Fantastic work Jonni! Really good stuff. A pain but well worth it as it appears to have come out really well in my opinion. an updated 'look' over stock.

Wicked trim from Royal Steering wheels too!

With regards to gear knob I too looked for a replacement a while back. Found a Polish company which made em for cheaper. The quality looked decent. Unfortunately, I havent found them again on ebay but look identical to the following link;

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Original-Aud...408423?hash=item2cbeb9cbe7:g:wCwAAOSw-3FZDGXL

If I find it again before you, i'll keep you in mind :)
 

mattyboyc

B6 Veteran now Q5 owner
Love the plate, "Race wars eh"
 

Jonni3

Is making it faster a bad thing ?
So today i got round to sorting out a used pair of headlight units that I got for the bargain price of £90, if you've looked for cab headlights then £90 is a steal.
They had the usual faded factory UV coating & just looked lacklustre.
Screenshot_20170521-2354131.jpg


Compared to the original units on the car these where a lot better. The original units have micro heat cracks on the inside of the lens & other funky stuff going on that wet sanding & buffing would not cure.

IMG_20170522_1159221.jpg


The used ones wet sanded & buffed much better clean & clear headlights, oh and a black S line badge which took a bit of modding to get it to sit how I wanted.
IMG_20170522_1453391.jpg


Also took the opportunity to ditch the led set up & put in a pair of Osram nightbreakers H7's & ordered a pair of silver indicator bulbs (py21). Think the cab needs the a pair of headlight support tray's after the led set up tried to melt it's way out.
And managed to paint the cam cover ....
from this...
IMG_20170522_1158391.jpg

to this ....
IMG_20170522_1438461.jpg


just looks a lot neater.

Cheers Dan, was a huge pita to do & really don't think I'd go through it again. Thanks for the link.
 
Last edited:

DrStrange

Registered User
So today i got round to sorting out a used pair of headlight units that I got for the bargain price of £90, if you've looked for cab headlights then £90 is a steal.
They had the usual faded factory UV coating & just looked lacklustre.
View attachment 126310

Compared to the original units on the car these where a lot better. The original units have micro heat cracks on the inside of the lens & other funky stuff going on that wet sanding & buffing would not cure.

View attachment 126311

The used ones wet sanded & buffed much better clean & clear headlights, oh and a black S line badge which took a bit of modding to get it to sit how I wanted.
View attachment 126312

Also took the opportunity to ditch the led set up & put in a pair of Osram nightbreakers H7's & ordered a pair of silver indicator bulbs (py21). Think the cab needs the a pair of headlight support tray's after the led set up tried to melt it's way out.
And managed to paint the cam cover ....
from this...
View attachment 126313
to this ....
View attachment 126314

just looks a lot neater.

Cheers Dan, was a huge pita to do & really don't think I'd go through it again. Thanks for the link.

..Anytime!

Looking REALLY clean!
 

QuattroCalum

Registered User
Drove my car for the first time this morning since fitting the new clutch switch yesterday.No more rev hang on changing gear. I fitted a new heater flap motor on the drivers side last week and I removed the brake and clutch switch to reach the uppermost bolt. Replaced the brake and clutch switch and none of them worked, what purpose is a switch that you can only fit once????
 

SemedoB6

Black and white a4
Drove my car for the first time this morning since fitting the new clutch switch yesterday.No more rev hang on changing gear. I fitted a new heater flap motor on the drivers side last week and I removed the brake and clutch switch to reach the uppermost bolt. Replaced the brake and clutch switch and none of them worked, what purpose is a switch that you can only fit once????
I do have that rev hang you're talking about. But my clutch switch if fairly new.
Only months old when I finally done the cruise control..
What else can cause this?

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QuattroCalum

Registered User
I do have that rev hang you're talking about. But my clutch switch if fairly new.
Only months old when I finally done the cruise control..
What else can cause this?

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Dirty throttle body can also cause it.
To fit the switch you must have the clutch pedal pushed down, fit the switch then release clutch pedal, you will hear the switch make a ratchet sound when the pedal comes into contact with it, if not you will need another switch. The pushrod on the switch should come fully extended.

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fanta

Registered User
So today i got round to sorting out a used pair of headlight units that I got for the bargain price of £90, if you've looked for cab headlights then £90 is a steal.
They had the usual faded factory UV coating & just looked lacklustre.
View attachment 126310

Compared to the original units on the car these where a lot better. The original units have micro heat cracks on the inside of the lens & other funky stuff going on that wet sanding & buffing would not cure.

View attachment 126311

The used ones wet sanded & buffed much better clean & clear headlights, oh and a black S line badge which took a bit of modding to get it to sit how I wanted.
View attachment 126312

Also took the opportunity to ditch the led set up & put in a pair of Osram nightbreakers H7's & ordered a pair of silver indicator bulbs (py21). Think the cab needs the a pair of headlight support tray's after the led set up tried to melt it's way out.
And managed to paint the cam cover ....
from this...
View attachment 126313
to this ....
View attachment 126314

just looks a lot neater.

Cheers Dan, was a huge pita to do & really don't think I'd go through it again. Thanks for the link.
Any tips on steps to take?
Going to do this on both my cars eventually, I have the heat resistant paint ready but haven't got around to it. Keen to make sure it's cleaned to perfection first.
Might do the throttle intake too...

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SemedoB6

Black and white a4
I didn't do that when I fitted my clutch switch.
Could that be it and I need another one?
Is it easy to clean the throttle body?

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Jonni3

Is making it faster a bad thing ?
Any tips on steps to take?
Going to do this on both my cars eventually, I have the heat resistant paint ready but haven't got around to it. Keen to make sure it's cleaned to perfection first.
Might do the throttle intake too...

Just make sure it's properly degreased , gave mine a good rub down with wire wool so it would key the surface prior to painting.
Am going to do the intake manifold a bit later too....
 

QuattroCalum

Registered User
I didn't do that when I fitted my clutch switch.
Could that be it and I need another one?
Is it easy to clean the throttle body?

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You only get one shot at fitting the switch if you do it wrong it's toast, I would fit another one. Throttle body is easy to clean. Remove the PCv breather pipe on the bottom of the throttle body, remove the inlet pipe, remove the four Allen bolts, do not disconnect the throttle body unless you have vcds to do a throttle body alignment. Use Wd40 or brake cleaner to clean it, wipe clean/dry and refit.


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SemedoB6

Black and white a4
You only get one shot at fitting the switch if you do it wrong it's toast, I would fit another one. Throttle body is easy to clean. Remove the PCv breather pipe on the bottom of the throttle body, remove the inlet pipe, remove the four Allen bolts, do not disconnect the throttle body unless you have vcds to do a throttle body alignment. Use Wd40 or brake cleaner to clean it, wipe clean/dry and refit.


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How would I know if it's toasted or not?
I do have VCDS. But if I can get away without disconnecting it better..
Just a rag will do or do I need something more abrasive to clean it?

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QuattroCalum

Registered User
How would I know if it's toasted or not?
I do have VCDS. But if I can get away without disconnecting it better..
Just a rag will do or do I need something more abrasive to clean it?

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Well clean the throttle body first, a rag will do if it's not too dirty, a brush of some description if it is dirty. If you still have rev hang change the switch.


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SemedoB6

Black and white a4
Well clean the throttle body first, a rag will do if it's not too dirty, a brush of some description if it is dirty. If you still have rev hang change the switch.


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Cheers mate.. Will get that sorted today.

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fanta

Registered User
I use an old tooth brush and clutch cleaner.. I wouldn't use wd40 personally. Be careful with rags or paper towels etc, you don't want crap getting in there or you're defeating the purpose :)
Regarding alignment surely it self aligns over a few drives, I've not had issues with removing completely and getting it clean.

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Jonni3

Is making it faster a bad thing ?
Fitted the one touch module for the roof, no more pulling/pushing the roof button for 30 seconds.
Easy to fit, took 5 minutes literally.

IMG_20170612_093703_01.jpg


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