What have you done to your A4 b6 today?

Hey @QuattroCalum thanks for the tip.
Just done this. Got the wife to help with the revving and at first it did blow air out the hose.
And after the steady stream of coolant put everything back together and because it's too warm outside I can tell if it's from the car or. The outside temp.
So the test will be tonight..
Either way thanks for the tip.. Was really easy to do..
Just a side note here.. I hate those clips.

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Mine seems to never get cold unless I'm bombing along (obvious reasons there). I suspect it's a leak somewhere.. Any tips on best place to start? It's also uneven so this bleeding might help.

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Bought the B7 key.. uncut blade and all..
better looking imo
8e6c58eb6c6c61d04eae4a6af952fbf6.png
 
fanta said:
Mine seems to never get cold unless I'm bombing along (obvious reasons there). I suspect it's a leak somewhere.. Any tips on best place to start? It's also uneven so this bleeding might help.

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Click to expand...

It never gets cold? Do you mean the air conditioning? If so it's unrelated to the heater matrix other than you use the same controls. The air con has it's own matrix charged with gas, if it's leaking then it won't work properly.
 
@QuattroCalum, about the heater.
Mine although it had air in the system and I bled it until a steady stream of coolant came out of it and still doesn't heat up..
Had it all the way up and wasnt heating.

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Wahlstrom said:
Not yet, blade hasn't been cut yet..

Panic button won't work as I don't have an alarm
Click to expand...
Right.. Ok..

What frequency is the key?
Your old b6 key had the panic button on it?
I think they're different frequency than ours and won't work..
At least ita what I read..
Because I wanted one key with the panic button..

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SemedoB6 said:
@QuattroCalum, about the heater.
Mine although it had air in the system and I bled it until a steady stream of coolant came out of it and still doesn't heat up..
Had it all the way up and wasnt heating.

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It's either a blocked heater matrix or the heater motor aren't working. If you take out the glove box and the knee bolster on the drivers side and adjust the temperature up and down (for whichever side you're on) and watch for the heater motors moving. Mine was cold on the driver's side, the arm had broken off the motor:( Replacement on it's way from German EBay.
If it's the heater matrix, disconnect both of the hose (you took one of them off yesterday) and flush through with a hose, don't use too much pressure though. Flush it from both ends.
 
Don't need to remove the matrix do I? Just flush with a hose on both sides of matrix or the matrix hoses?
And what do I do with all the coolant?

Sorry for all the questions..

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If anyone needs any coolant bits and bobs drop us a pm as I ripped all mine out :happy:
 
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SemedoB6 said:
Don't need to remove the matrix do I? Just flush with a hose on both sides of matrix or the matrix hoses?
And what do I do with all the coolant?

Sorry for all the questions..

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No, you don't need to remove the heater matrix, just flush through the outlets you remove the hoses from, from one outlet then the other. Before you do this, next time you run the car check if the hoses are heating up, that's a good indicator if your matrix is blocked or not, cold hoses = blocked matrix.
When you remove the hoses from the matrix, either block the ends of the hoses or connect them with a suitable piece of pipe, that way the only coolant you will lose is out of the matrix, you will only need to add a little coolant once you have reattached the hoses and bled the system.
 
Great stuff..
Will tackle this tomorrow morning after work..
Cheers buddy.. Hope that's the problem and I can fix it..
Any other things I should look for in case it isn't that?

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SemedoB6 said:
Great stuff..
Will tackle this tomorrow morning after work..
Cheers buddy.. Hope that's the problem and I can fix it..
Any other things I should look for in case it isn't that?

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If the heater matrix is clear and flows well, it only leaves the heater control flap motors, good luck, keep my fingers crossed the matrix is blocked as that's the easiest fix.
 
Well.. It has to be the motors then..
Hoses both hot..
Should they be burning hit or just hot?
Have a link for the motor?
Do they differ passenger. Or driver's side or both sides use same motor?

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SemedoB6 said:
Well.. It has to be the motors then..
Hoses both hot..
Should they be burning hit or just hot?
Have a link for the motor?
Do they differ passenger. Or driver's side or both sides use same motor?

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They should be hot enough that you wouldn't want to hold onto them. The drivers side motor is 8E2 820 511 Passenger side motor is 8E2 820 511 A

Have a look on this link, some good info on there: http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/heater-flap-motors-where-to-buy.133234/
 
I'll check the motors and then flush the matrix as they were hot bot I could hold on alright..

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For the driver's side temperature control motor I found it cheaper to buy it on German EBay.de and pay for postage than buying it on EBay.co.uk, the rest of them seem to be cheap enough, strange but there you go.
 
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Removed the brake and clutch switch to reach uppermost bolt for heater motor and now it's toast, heater works now though. If you can avoid removing brake switch, do it.


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SemedoB6 said:
Right.. Ok..

What frequency is the key?
Your old b6 key had the panic button on it?
I think they're different frequency than ours and won't work..
At least ita what I read..
Because I wanted one key with the panic button..

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Click to expand...

It's 315 mhz and MYT4073A so should work

Don't know why I don't have an alarm? Maybe I do? I'll find out when I press the panic button
 
Wahlstrom said:
It's 315 mhz and MYT4073A so should work

Don't know why I don't have an alarm? Maybe I do? I'll find out when I press the panic button
Click to expand...
But ours are 433mhz.
Probably won't work.

The alarm should be in the rear right quart panel inside the boot liner..
Of it works let me know.. I'll definitely change my key again..

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SemedoB6 said:
But ours are 433mhz.
Probably won't work.

The alarm should be in the rear right quart panel inside the boot liner..
Of it works let me know.. I'll definitely change my key again..

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Pretty sure they are 315mhz

Newer fobs are 433mhz
 
Wahlstrom said:
Pretty sure they are 315mhz

Newer fobs are 433mhz
Click to expand...
Even my old fob had 433mhz imprinted on it..
And I got one of the b7 style with the same frequency.
Check your key. Might have the frequency where the blade sits when closed.

Let me know how that works out.. I would love to have the panic function..


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SemedoB6 said:
Even my old fob had 433mhz imprinted on it..
And I got one of the b7 style with the same frequency.
Check your key. Might have the frequency where the blade sits when closed.

Let me know how that works out.. I would love to have the panic function..


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It's only in UK the fobs are 433 MHz
In almost rest of the World Its 315mhz
 
audi upgrades
Doesn't open.
But I had to change my CCM because mine was really shot.
But I think I got one from 2002 same as my car.
I know it was definitely the same part number..

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Oh the link was working, I needed a cam that ended in BD so was a different part number to my original, I'll see if I can dig up the original thread from when I did mine.
 
Is should be printed in the service book..
5D1 is 433
5D2 and 3 are 315

Found a thread about those numbers, can't find it now
 
mattyboyc said:
Oh the link was working, I needed a cam that ended in BD so was a different part number to my original, I'll see if I can dig up the original thread from when I did mine.
Click to expand...
Mine was already a BD but needed to be replaced.. When I did the b7 style key coded no problem.
I'll try to find one and try to code it see if it works

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I got my forum sticker the other day ( cheers Sandra!), so stuck it on. It's on just squint enough for me to notice and get annoyed but not enough to justify doing it again. It'll do for now haha!
IMG 4805
 
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Gonna replace my shocks and bump stops tomorrow. Wish me luck!

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