Woyoyy!
I'm currently bleeding my clutch, and I'm having a mare... Let me know how you get on with that! I've been at it for 3 weekends now, now trying to bleed it using brake caliper bleed connected to the clutch bleed...
Good luck with everything!
What have you done to your A3 (8p) this week
- Thread starter lea323ci
- Start date
I'm currently bleeding my clutch, and I'm having a mare... Let me know how you get on with that! I've been at it for 3 weekends now, now trying to bleed it using brake caliper bleed connected to the clutch bleed...
Good luck with everything!
I assume it’s a new slave … as the o ring can let air in if re used
On the top of csc that comes through the box
I have done a few of these before over the years now and only way is to -
push release bearing right in, dip in brake fluid.
Let go slowly to suck up as much as you can.
fit to box and put the transport seal cap bit the new one comes with back on to stop anything going in.
when back together, I found the only way to stop pedal slamming to the floor is to pressure bleeed from the brake fluid resivoir and release through the nipple as normal but not under too much pressure
sealey one I use but they do a few different ones … they have a cap to seal onto the vwag brake resivoir And a 1L magnetic base bottle so you don’t run low.
I remember the first time round I almost had pedal back then lost it and so on and realised that it needed the level above the max line and then removed to max line once pedal is right with a serynge or something as it seems on golfs especially to pull air in on bleeding if not above max line.
I can look at Audi manual if you want and screenshot the procedure as I haven’t got that far yet matey so haven’t looked how they say to do.
I can’t pm people as i haven’t posted enough apparently after nearly 2 years on here I’m afraid so posting is the only way to get information to people that need it.
Just brought a S3 8p after having a modified V5 MK4 for 5yrs. Absolutely love it so far. Already has a turbo back 3" non res cobra stainless exhaust with sport cat, R8 coil's, pretty sure it's mapped aswell with how it boosts. Cambelt, water pump and coolant less than 2k ago. Gotta a few little things to sort out but nothing serious.
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Iabed uprated rear main oil seal fitting this evening
I just added a how to on here for the ea113 full platform if anyone needs
link is…
www.audi-sport.net
I just added a how to on here for the ea113 full platform if anyone needs
link is…
How to… Crankshaft rear main oil seal replacement / fitting
thought I would do a quick write up for the iabed uprated rear main crankshaft oil seal as no one seems to have done on the ea113 engine and have been asked lots to do a write up when I next did one it is also the same to fit the standard genuine seal except not putting sealant on the face that...
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Well the bag didn’t blow up and I am thankful for static discharge. Bit of a pain but worth it. Now onto the hvac and rnse
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Well the bag didn’t blow up and I am thankful for static discharge. Bit of a pain but worth it. Now onto the hvac and rnse
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Looking good bud have you got the smaller smd’s for the rnse? they’re a lot smaller (size 0805 I think) still cheap enough but thought I’d give you a heads up incase you strip it and have to order some. But the good news is once you’ve done the 30 or 40 or so in the rnse the dash switches are the same size. Though just to make things more complicated if you’re doing the interior light they’re normal 2mm leds with an in line resistor. I was able to reuse mine so didn’t take a note of the value which to be fair I should have done
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yes i did get 0805. I will probably leave the interior alone as I never open up the screen. I figured a little green would be nice so I post up pics as I make progress. After a 100 or so LED's, I think my skills will be pretty good. Its pretty Zen TBH.Thanks for your help and inspirational pics
I haven’t opened up the rnse but the Tpms and the esp pads were a little longer than 0805. I didn’t measure the pads but I suspect 1206 would be the fit. When I open the rnse I’ll measure the pad distance to make sure. Anyways , rnse next
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Managed to get our 12 Sept 2011 registered A3 (8p) RS to 15k miles earlier this week 
Lots of 'heath' reasons as to why the miles are so low - like in the hospital car park above - but Bluey's now back in regular use...
Lots of 'heath' reasons as to why the miles are so low - like in the hospital car park above - but Bluey's now back in regular use...
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I love the cornflower blue! I’m planning a full respray on my 2006 A3 since I want to keep the car but fancy a change from phantom black, I was thinking of going Nogaro blue, but I have to say I now think Cornflower blue suits the 8p better.Managed to get our 12 Sept 2011 registered A3 (8p) RS to 15k miles earlier this week
Lots of 'heath' reasons as to why the miles are so low - like in the hospital car park above - but Bluey's now back in regular use...
Thank you, JeffY, needless to say we think so too...
With a few mods since but still very much an A3 (8P)
Note: Cornflower blue - and OLD audi quattro 20v colour - is not a metallic or pearlescent but it don't half change colour is varying light
SEE:
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I think this colour too on the larger length cars myself and the sprint blue on the hatchbacks (or the grey also possibly)
Looking good though mate thumbs up
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loving the green i might try doing this im assuming it involves a solder iron,
had my door cable snap the other day, got a temporary fix door pull bites a little earlier the locking button wont lock drivers door as its short i can adjust it but im just waiting for a new cable
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had my door cable snap the other day, got a temporary fix door pull bites a little earlier the locking button wont lock drivers door as its short i can adjust it but im just waiting for a new cable
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And here's Cornflower and Daytona (SQ5 ion Sepang has since replaced the AUDI A1 Black Edition 1.4 TFSi 185ps S-tronic)
Like I say, Cornflower blue does change on lighting...
Oh man, you sure do be itching me to jump on this LED swap train. Only wish if you had shown it in a bit more detail, especially the disassembly part, getting to ledsI haven’t opened up the rnse but the Tpms and the esp pads were a little longer than 0805. I didn’t measure the pads but I suspect 1206 would be the fit. When I open the rnse I’ll measure the pad distance to make sure. Anyways , rnse next
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Oh man, you sure do be itching me to jump on this LED swap train. Only wish if you had shown it in a bit more detail, especially the disassembly part, getting to leds
Perhaps do one if you can mate with the lists of what led’s go where
Would be really handy for me when I make a start
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Ok I’m late to the party for sure. The genius is troubs12. His wiring of the control module change made me faint. Truly epic.
In terms of doing the mods.
All pieces open up easily. If you struggle your not doing it right.
All require an eyeglass flat screw driver and just unclip the access points.
Once you take them out, you will see
In terms of specifics, headlight switch is just unclipping
Paddle shifters: you will see a pin that needs to be removed to access LEDs. Access is on back of unit. With flat edge screwdriver push out pin and then grab it with a plier on the other side
HVAC: easy. T8 screws only. Lift off done
Headlights,paddle shifters and hvac all plcc 2.
Take picture prior to starting. Orient new LEDs in same pattern with notch in same direction.
Middle strip under rnse: I used 0805 but will measure pad distance as I think 1206 would fit better. Card holder plcc 2.
Others can comment on rnse as I haven’t been in that pig yet. 0805 is likely as others have said but I need to measure pad distance.
Don’t need much heat. Look at some YouTube videos and practice on a circuit board first. It’s not hard really. It’s actually enjoyable. Your fine motor skills will improve.
LEDs are cheap so order about 20% more than needed.
Here are some pics of components
And remember to disconn ct battery before removing airbag please. Your dealing with a potential bomb there. Safety first peeps
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In terms of doing the mods.
All pieces open up easily. If you struggle your not doing it right.
All require an eyeglass flat screw driver and just unclip the access points.
Once you take them out, you will see
In terms of specifics, headlight switch is just unclipping
Paddle shifters: you will see a pin that needs to be removed to access LEDs. Access is on back of unit. With flat edge screwdriver push out pin and then grab it with a plier on the other side
HVAC: easy. T8 screws only. Lift off done
Headlights,paddle shifters and hvac all plcc 2.
Take picture prior to starting. Orient new LEDs in same pattern with notch in same direction.
Middle strip under rnse: I used 0805 but will measure pad distance as I think 1206 would fit better. Card holder plcc 2.
Others can comment on rnse as I haven’t been in that pig yet. 0805 is likely as others have said but I need to measure pad distance.
Don’t need much heat. Look at some YouTube videos and practice on a circuit board first. It’s not hard really. It’s actually enjoyable. Your fine motor skills will improve.
LEDs are cheap so order about 20% more than needed.
Here are some pics of components
And remember to disconn ct battery before removing airbag please. Your dealing with a potential bomb there. Safety first peeps
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To bluey ^^^. My favorite car ever. Glad you are back in it driving and hopefully healthy.
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Easy one today…
Fitting Heko’s !
car is filthy I know, it’s been off road for about a month or so again till last night for the transmission &4wd rebuild this time.
may clean later, tbh it needs it.
Fitting Heko’s !
car is filthy I know, it’s been off road for about a month or so again till last night for the transmission &4wd rebuild this time.
may clean later, tbh it needs it.
EMTuning Full Interior kit & Reverse LED & License Plate LED + RocketWires Front Red Puddles & 4 Door OEM 0000 Puddles and Warning Lights. Installation was a breeze. The hardest part is cutting the holes. Recommend using a pick and scribing the outline then cut exactly that size.
Looks amazing. Im sure you noticed the airvents are matt. the polished black are cheap enough now
Cheers mate. Yes, not sure if it's worth the time and cost of getting the gloss black as it's very subtle
7 plcc2 to knob
2 0805 to coming home switch
2 pin LEDs to brightness
I marked the anode for ya
Best to buy an smd tester. Makes the changeout much easier.
Freaking 0805 are tiny
Took more time opening up the 3 switch ports than soldering
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1: Found a better way to stop AudioPilot from changing volume and not having the 3 beeps...Poor a bunch of hot glue over the Mic then reattach.
2nd: Cubby LED install. Should be the last bit of interior LED retrofits. For any US owners looking to do this, the lighter connector to plug the optical LED into is on the left of the shift knob under the cubby. Just need to pop off the kneebar triangles and shift trim to access and move it to the back of HVAC.
2nd: Cubby LED install. Should be the last bit of interior LED retrofits. For any US owners looking to do this, the lighter connector to plug the optical LED into is on the left of the shift knob under the cubby. Just need to pop off the kneebar triangles and shift trim to access and move it to the back of HVAC.
What a week, changed the cam follower, did the haldex service and then literally within 24hrs the ****** engine has gone bang after 7wks and less than 1000 mile's. Thank god I bought it from a dealer 
all being covered under warranty I think the oil pump seized or chain gone barely runs and smokes more than I do 
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all being covered under warranty I think the oil pump seized or chain gone barely runs and smokes more than I do 
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Hey bud I’ve not been on here for awhile but was wondering where you got the white stitched trims from? Or were they on the motor already?
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7 plcc2 to knob
2 0805 to coming home switch
2 pin LEDs to brightness
I marked the anode for ya
Best to buy an smd tester. Makes the changeout much easier.
Freaking 0805 are tiny
Took more time opening up the 3 switch ports than soldering
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Absolute pain in the D1&k isn’t it
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They're genuine from an RS3, they pop up on eBay from time to time, not cheap though. I think you can buy non-genuine ones off eBay which also look pretty good.
Yeah Neil it is micro work and now onto the RNSE. It looks the pants but damn it's a ballacheAbsolute pain in the D1&k isn’t it
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I’ve gotta redo mine as the ones I ordered two types of smd a warm white and cool white so guess which one I fitted lol. I’ve gotta do my new q3 ac controls anyway so I’ll smash it out at the same time but times really tight lately and it’s sunny haha
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Finally had time to install fire extinguisher
Seats out
Door trim removed
Carpet pulled back
Carrier base aligned and marked
Step drill to 7mm
Rivnut installed
Base installed
Carpet and trim replaced
Extinguisher installed
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Seats out
Door trim removed
Carpet pulled back
Carrier base aligned and marked
Step drill to 7mm
Rivnut installed
Base installed
Carpet and trim replaced
Extinguisher installed
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Oil change (Millers CFS 5w40)
Xina special 3" downpipe (sounds like half of a V8 now!), interestingly no CEL yet (haven't scanned with VCDS yet)
Breather pipe replacement (anyone wants to see the og one?)
GFB DV+
Xina special 3" downpipe (sounds like half of a V8 now!), interestingly no CEL yet (haven't scanned with VCDS yet)
Breather pipe replacement (anyone wants to see the og one?)
GFB DV+
