Simple "thing". Changed the battery in my key fob. For some odd reason, when the battery gets low, the fob will partially function. Lock, rear hatch open, and panic all worked, but unlock would not. I thought there was another issue with my driver's door wiring loom, but couldn't find any visible breaks or cracks. I put up with this for a few months. Then a member here responded to a question for me, suggesting I check the fob battery. Sure enough, when I used my backup fob, the unlock function was working. New battery in my more heavily used fob, & I'm back in business. Now I can just be bothered with what splash screen & wallpaper to put on my new head unit.
Gave mine a good old winter wash today and interior valet. Also one of my headlamps had popped during the week so I ‘upgraded’ to some Ring Xenonmax bulbs that I had lying around which ‘seem’ brighter, at least two is better than one
Downpipe and 200 cell sports cat now fitted making me now the proud owner of a full, turbo-back Milltek exhaust system. All ready for next Friday.....(Oh, I changed my mind re the HPFP). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Bought a 2012 s3 a couple of weeks back which needs a few bits doing to it. Got a bit done this week: Replaced broken armrest lid Replaced missing parcel shell cable peg Fitted micro sized mic to pioneer h.u. (bt phone now works) :roll eyes: Replaced centre caps Fitted the gen1 front and rear reading light units with led bulbs. Did a 1 stage machine polish and a coat of sealant to clean up the paint a bit and protect it for the winter. Ordered a cat back exhaust, plus a 200 cell cat to sort out the vile, droning, hack-job, custom exhaust that a p.o. fitted. Fitting on monday. Bought a complete original air box and fittings. Will clean up and store away, in case I want to chuck away the induction kit that's fitted. Going to spend a couple of hours cleaning the alcantara this afternoon, to see if I can bring that back to a decent finish.
No, it was dark by the time I'd finished on the paintwork last week (8.5 hours of hard graft) and it was dirty again the next day Will take a picture or 2 next time I wash it, but with this weather anc the filthy roads ought here, it will probably be a while!
Went out for the first proper spin since fitting the DP today and I’m really happy. The car pulls like a train even before the remap, the noise is just right and theres very little vibration. The bush insert supplied by Milltek seems very good too and it’s nice that the exhaust note now comes from the tailpipes instead of from behind the engine haha.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Would love to hear it. My exhaust system is now past 12 years... and I have a feeling after this winter, I'm going to need to start replacing parts of it. Will have to do some research. Your success sounds encouraging.
Mine is 10 years old and the downpipe that came off was truly knackered, it was blowing from the flexi pretty much from buying the car. I noticed yesterday that Roadrunner are doing 20% off for Black Friday on Milltek exhausts. Bit of a sickener but that’s 20% off the rrp, they were already 15% off 3 weeks ago.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Had the awful custom exhaust that the p.o. had fitted replaced. Didn't go quite as planned though.. We'd had a quick look underneath and spotted that the oem downpipe had been chopped off before the cat and a flange welded on, to which the custom system was attached. As a quick, cheap fix I'd ordered a 3" downpipe and 2.5" resonated system from toyosports. However, the part of the decat pipe that should have been reduced to fit the 2.5" system wasn't shrunk enough - it was exactly the same size. So we put that back in the box to be returned and went to plan b, which was to fabricate one out of 2.5" stainless with a flange on one end and whilst we were doing it, a 200 cell cat fitted. No problem on this front as the guy builds custom exhausts himself. However. The catback system from Toyosports was a really bad fit. Centre box mount meant it was hanging at an angle, whilst the tailpipes fouled the cutout and didn't stick out beyond it. So Pete ended up having to sort that out as well. The system is a little louder than stock, but not much, which is fine for me as the drone was unbearable before and I'm happy that mot's won't be a problem either. Thankfully the cat was cheap enough and the refund on the downpipe will pay for the fabrication and work. However, lessen learnt about cheap exhaust systems! They're cheap for a reason! Oh - have ordered some eibach pro front springs to level the car out..
Do You have to remove all of the torq screws including the one in the middle holding the motor in place or is it specific and is there any prying of the plastic parts required plan on installing it this weekend Sent from my SM-N976B using Tapatalk
Think it’s 4/5 little torques around the housing holding various pieces in, I did not remove the motor. I used my plastic trim removal tools to remove the mirror, then the bottom black plastic housing. Then removed 3/4 torques to release the mirror shell. Then a very thin flathead screwdriver to undo the electrical connection to the indicator. Next there’s 2 (I think) torques holding the indicator strip in, remove them and slide the indicator out. (It’s a bit awkward, they fit the hole perfectly so don’t come out easy) Then just repeat backwards. I’d also make sure you get the tip of the indicator that would show you if it’s on or not, into the hole first as this makes it a whole lot easier to fit the indicator in Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes mate that’s correct, mirrors were fitted with indicators in wing mirrors from factory Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yesterday I replaced my PCV with new revision & new rubber seal, hpfp cam follower and spark plugs with ngk iridiums. Cylinder 1 seemed to have a fair amount of rust inside (on the spark plug and ignition coil, which wiped off the coil easily and didn’t hinder removing the spark plug... Anything to worry about or just a bit of moisture must’ve got in when they were last changed?) PCV was fairly coated in oil which wasn’t pretty but cleaned that up a Battery was dead as hasn’t moved for 3/4 weeks lol, but it’s running smoother than ever tho so that’s good Also finally got new bumper and all trims back together, just waiting for rings and badges (arriving tomorrow ) looks amazing already Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yesterday; Autotech HPFP internals RS4 FPRV Stage 2 Remap 348.6 bhp 385.2 ft lb Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ramair oversized intake and Sachs Performance clutch. Other than fuel pump etc I think that’s about it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ahhh the everything black bay, I remember now Did they feedback if you can pick up more power with any other hardware? Or was it a very optimized map? Will be going stage 2+ but don't want to have any limiting factors like an aftermarket IC. I was hoping for around the 360-380 but don't know how optimistic that is.
There’s probably room for more but this is as far as I want to go, the drivability is awesome. This is essentially a stage 2+, it’s just not a term all tuners use I suppose. The dyno is AWD too, as opposed to disabling the Haldex... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
More boring tidying bits: fixed a bad connection on the passenger heated mirror, replaced a damaged mirror LED on the driver side and fitted a new rear wiper blade. Cleaned, conditioned and fitted the set of OEM rubber interior mats and boot liner I had for the previous v6 sportback. Also had a tester on cleaning up the alcantara. Seems it will clean up well enough, but I think it will take a couple of goes, so will try to do it on a couple of dry afternoons over the christmas period.
Looks like this is some weird aftermarket design, with these sill plates powered by batteries. https://aoonuauto.com/products/audi...-by-aa?rq=yr_2007~mk_audi~md_a3-sportback-8pa
I bought from guy in my country who made custom with your logo/name anything can be printed, its work on 12v with + and - wires, its about 25€. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Got one of these short shifters for my FSI 8p. Has anyone else installed one and did you replace any other bushings since your in there as well? Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk
Emptied my oil catch can (S3 8P), it was up to the line after just short of 1300 miles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've been thinking about doing this for my head unit which supports a rear camera, but I'm not clear about how to run the wire from the hatch door hinge area through to the "A" pillar. Did you find instructions somewhere about how to remove portions of the head liner & panels? I don't want to risk breaking tabs if I can help it. Thanks.
Its not that hard to run cables from head u it to the rear loads of instructions on here I managed to do it no damage to clips. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Are you feeling any benefit from the catch can engine wise or is it purely to keep it cleaner? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
