What have you done to your A3 (8p) this week

Thomo_1875

Registered User
Finally got the wheels repaired and resprayed. Really happy with the final finish. Will post some more pics once they're cleaned up.

Before and after.
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tcardio

Registered User
one has to ask how they got that way in the first place. I love the result but does someone park your car by braille. I have always said back in only and take a taxi to the curb
 

Thomo_1875

Registered User
one has to ask how they got that way in the first place. I love the result but does someone park your car by braille. I have always said back in only and take a taxi to the curb
Whoever had it before I bought it obviously didn't know how to park - all 4 alloys were a mess. As for the colour of them before, I think someone has tried to do it themselves on the cheap. Been wanting them done since I got it in March, but other warning lights kept popping up first
 

lafa3ro

Registered User
Had a pre winter check up done, and the damn rear wiper arm replaced (they had to use a dremel to remove the old one). Asked them to listen for a
clunking noise and a transmission whine in lower gears. Turns out they think both are related, the whine being possibly some wear and the clunk would be something loose in the transmission.

Are these usually symptoms of the DSG failing?
 

Chris-P

Audi Owner 2011-2019
I'm no longer an A3 owner :cry:
 

Chris-P

Audi Owner 2011-2019
how come? that mot list didnt look bad other than the oil leak

The cause of the oil leak was the killer. The oil filter bracket is broken and was quoted 7-9 hours labour to replace:(
 

samisnake

Registered User
The cause of the oil leak was the killer. The oil filter bracket is broken and was quoted 7-9 hours labour to replace:(

you handy with a spanner? wouldnt say its a killer tbh, i mean the labour cost at a garage would make it uneconomical but its certainly doable if you have the abilty.

7-9 hours is most likely the book time, but it wouldnt take a competent mechanic half that id reckon. looking on elsawin at a 2005 BLX engine code 2.0fsi (your engine code might differ but itll be the same), the 'hard' bits are removing the intake manifold and fuel rail, disconnecting a few coolant pipes and thats about it.

if its leaking, its either the gasket or the actual bracket body cracked. either way id replace both while you have everything apart. part numbers here
https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+a3+s3+sportb+lim+qu/a3/2005-412/1/115-115030/#1

ive attached the guide on removing the oil fitler bracket, if it looks like something you could tackle yourself i can upload the extra steps eg. the manifold guide.
 

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Chris-P

Audi Owner 2011-2019
Not handy with a spanner unfortunately:( Thanks for the guide though:)
 

Sawyer928

Registered User
Got round to trying to fix my door cards. The previous owner has new speakers installed in the doors with new speaker surrounds which pushed the door cards out, and broke clips and the lower mounting point on the cards.
Took about 2hrs taking it both door cards off, dismantling the speaker housings to essentially cut them in half, as a temporary measure. Until I can get them to a proper shop to make me some new ones as the cables need sorting, along with new speaker surrounds as they are a bit wet.
Removed wind deflectors as honestly they're a piece of **** and only good for being able to leave your windows partially open in summer.
 
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J0N

Registered User
Got round to trying to fix my door cards. The previous owner has new speakers installed in the doors with new speaker surrounds which pushed the door cards out, and broke clips and the lower mounting point on the cards.
Took about 2hrs taking it both door cards off, dismantling the speaker housings to essentially cut them in half, as a temporary measure. Until I can get them to a proper shop to make me some new ones as the cables need sorting, along with new speaker surrounds as they are a bit wet.
Removed wind deflectors as honestly they're a piece of **** and only good for being able to leave your windows partially open in summer.

Did you buy the plastic trim removal tools?? Best four or five quid eBay purchase ever, got a set when I had to change the window regulator on my old A4....


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Sawyer928

Registered User
Did you buy the plastic trim removal tools?? Best four or five quid eBay purchase ever, got a set when I had to change the window regulator on my old A4....


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Yeah I did. They're brilliant little things. I bought them awhile back when changing over the door lock modules. Well worth the money. I've lost a clip for one of the door cards so need to buy some spares.
 
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AbsoluteA3

Registered User
Finally got the wheels repaired and resprayed. Really happy with the final finish. Will post some more pics once they're cleaned up.
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That... is just gorgeous. I'm jealous. I'd be tempted to do that on mine, if they were beat up. I just did a blackout grille so black rims would go nicely.
 

AbsoluteA3

Registered User
I finally got around to completing my single-DIN to double-DIN conversion and install a new head unit. I chose a Kenwood DDX-9904S.

The conversion was a major pain to do. I planned it such that I could spend a few hours on each of 3 consecutive days. The breaks were helpful. If there's one thing I learned--don't take any short cuts. When you take off screws & bolts, keep them grouped together with a label. I've discovered that some screws that appear to be alike can vary slightly, where one screw can be substituted while another cannot, ending up with confusion. Also, when you take apart the center console, there are many gaps that lead deep into the car where a dropped screw will disappear forever. Cover all the gaps!

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The double-DIN cage I bought (from a UK seller) came with 2011 auxiliary buttons & bezel. I like the design a little better than on the 06-08 ones. The Passenger Airbag indicator was way too bright, so I covered the internal solid plastic prism with multiple layers of translucent labels to tone it down a lot (it was so bright, you could nearly read by it). I also bought a 2010 CCM with the nicer lighted knobs and swapped them into the 2007 CCM (DIY link).

One real nightmare in this project was the "A" pillar. The diagrams aren't very detailed and removal & installation is by no means intuitive. I had to take mine off to thread a microphone through it. Couldn't use the existing microphone as it's embedded in a harness that makes it nearly impossible to separate. I mounted my new microphone at the rear end of the main cabin light module (behind the pseudo-vent, which is much better than the OEM mic position).

The Kenwood has 2 wired USB connectors and also two audio connectors (input/output), so I bought two different USB modules with audio jacks. I put the USB and audio input jack module in the CD changer slot located in the glove box. I put it off to the side so that I can install a USB drive and still have room to fit larger items easily.
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The other USB module I installed in the center console, on the driver's side near the seat. I test it and it works well. I can't fit a memory stick there because of the seat, but that's what the glove box one is for. This one is mainly for phone charging. The audio jack will take earbuds or headphones.
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I wish it came with a light gray cover, but the seat mostly obstructs view of it.
 
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samuelh_888

Registered User
Completed the S3's annual service. I managed to source Millers 5w/40 Nanodrive here in New Zealand. It was $170 for 5l (about £85), nearly twice the price I'd pay back in the UK but needs must! Genuine oil filter and Hengst pollen filter also fitted.

Resetting the Service Indicator via VCDS was a ball-ache via the SRI reset process. After some Googling it appears that the reset doesn't work for >MY10'ish 8P's, you need to reset 3 different settings individually. I tried pulling the odometer stalk on the right hand side of the dash, this will display service information but won't do the reset.

I have a couple more mods/upgrades waiting in the wings. I'll update as they are fitted.
 

paddy

Registered User
Hi sam
when i reset the service with VCDS its usually instant but back when the car was new and audi reset it, it would take a day or so of driving to show as reset on the dis.
 

samuelh_888

Registered User
Hi sam
when i reset the service with VCDS its usually instant but back when the car was new and audi reset it, it would take a day or so of driving to show as reset on the dis.

What steps/process do you follow? Maybe I was doing it wrong...
 

paddy

Registered User
I'm hopeless at this sort of thing without re doing it and noting it down but i remember i get the service reminder options up and select the annual service for UK for the oil change, I dont bother to reset the service usually as it goes with the annual oil change. I do remember resetting it more than once before it would show on the dis but it always showed straight away when i got it right , mine is 2011 so prob a 2010 build.
 

J0N

Registered User
Changed the HPFP cam follower, my S3 has almost covered 65,000 miles and I don’t know if it’s ever been changed before now. A bit over 50 quid and a simple half hour job, well worth it.

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I reckon I caught this at just the right time...

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Not the best picture but the cam lobe looks and feels all good...

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Changed the o-ring, refitted and added a nice little finishing touch...

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Zubair

Registered User
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I've just put a set of new tyres,booked it in for a service by Audi Rustenburg and I'm going to change the engine temp sensor. Made this keyring aswell
 

samuelh_888

Registered User
Nice!What did you use?link pls was thinking to plastidip mine
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@ch1z64 had his pieces hydro-dipped carbon fibre - looks excellent and not too expensive.
 

ch1z64

C'mon you's bhoy's in Green
VCDS Map User
Silver Supporter
Just removed back wheels to remove 12mm spacers as they pushed my wheels out to ET32 which in turn meant when i went over a bump i heard the tyre rub against top off arch ****** shame as spacers only been on car over a week .Now have 4 for sale in classifieds
 

prt57

Registered User
Not very exciting but I had the wheels off to Waxoyl under the car. A long and dirty job but it does work. Also took the opportunity to clean and polish the inside of the wheels.
 

EvilSmurph

Registered User
Made 4000km without problem , great car
Zagreb-Brussels-Paris and back :)
 

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George Kost

Registered User
Installed a phone mount from oem-mounts!
And installed a Bluetooth adapter for both voice and streaming from eBay.
Both perfect. Very pleased!
 

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J0N

Registered User
Started to make enquires into a stage 2 remap for when I fit this which should be arriving tomorrow...

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After much deliberation I decided to pay the extra and go for the proper Sports Cat as opposed to the cheaper Race Cat.

I know I need to get the remap done ASAP after fitting the downpipe but is it actually safe to use in the meantime? I can put up with the EML.


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samuelh_888

Registered User
Started to make enquires into a stage 2 remap for when I fit this which should be arriving tomorrow...

After much deliberation I decided to pay the extra and go for the proper Sports Cat as opposed to the cheaper Race Cat.

I know I need to get the remap done ASAP after fitting the downpipe but is it actually safe to use in the meantime? I can put up with the EML.


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It’s perfectly fine to use - you don’t need to rush for the map and as you’ve gone with the sport-cat there’s a chance you won’t even get the EML warning.

Speaking from experience, I went to Stg2 before going to 2+. In hindsight I should have gone straight to 2+ which, assuming your clutch is healthy, is only hpfp internals and fprv difference (£300 total). The Stg2 was good but the 2+ makes the power more usable as you have the additional torque and it’s available earlier. Re the clutch - it will go at some stage so you’ll need to factor that in regardless.
 
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J0N

Registered User
It’s perfectly fine to use - you don’t need to rush for the map and as you’ve gone with the sport-cat there’s a chance you won’t even get the EML warning.

Speaking from experience, I went to Stg2 before going to 2+. In hindsight I should have gone straight to 2+ which, assuming your clutch is healthy, is only hpfp internals and fprv difference (£300 total). The Stg2 was good but the 2+ makes the power more usable as you have the additional torque and it’s available earlier. Re the clutch - it will go at some stage so you’ll need to factor that in regardless.

I already have a Sachs Performance clutch with an LUK DMF.


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