What have you done to your 8Y today?
- Thread starter MA3RC
- Start date
No unfortunately not.
I had tried to get the RS animation in the rear when I first got the car, however, similar to many people with the sportback it did not work. But something I did has now got it working when it did not before.
I have spoken with AA10DEN, but unfortunately we cannot replicate the RS front animation and flag DRL as he does not have the coding history to hand, but hopefully when he does get this information again he can share this
I followed intructions from this video Badge removal, and it come out, not so easy as in the video, but come out.
Hello Everyone, New member here , i have an A3 8Y basic 2.0 tdi Manhattan Gray and i am looking for some upgrades to make it look more sporty. i only have installed window tints and paddles to the steering wheel. next step is for sure a rims replacement i am thinking of Japan Racing SL01 Matte Black and then i was thinking of installing the Maxton Design splitters but i dont know if its easy to do.
Feel free to suggest any kind of upgrades, thanks in advance, greetings from Greece !
Feel free to suggest any kind of upgrades, thanks in advance, greetings from Greece !
Installed APR intake!
So, I kind of liked this design from the look of it online. All in one intake tube with turbo inlet built in, lines up with the factory air inlets, looks fairly stock with the lid on, etc. Made me curious why it was so cheap. After installing I feel like I understand a little better. Overall, I'm quite satisfied by the product, but that was definitely one of the more annoying intakes to install. It took me a good hour and a half to fight extremely tight clearances and instructions that could have been a little better (a few places would have been much easier to do in a different order, in hindsight of course).
In the end though, it's all in without issues and fits nicely. I didn't order the lid yet, because lets be honest, we're installing an intake for those sweet turbo sounds. I'll probably see how it does and consider grabbing one eventually. Nice that they sell it separately.
Obligatory turbski shot!
So, I kind of liked this design from the look of it online. All in one intake tube with turbo inlet built in, lines up with the factory air inlets, looks fairly stock with the lid on, etc. Made me curious why it was so cheap. After installing I feel like I understand a little better. Overall, I'm quite satisfied by the product, but that was definitely one of the more annoying intakes to install. It took me a good hour and a half to fight extremely tight clearances and instructions that could have been a little better (a few places would have been much easier to do in a different order, in hindsight of course).
In the end though, it's all in without issues and fits nicely. I didn't order the lid yet, because lets be honest, we're installing an intake for those sweet turbo sounds. I'll probably see how it does and consider grabbing one eventually. Nice that they sell it separately.
Obligatory turbski shot!
Hello I'm a new user with a a3 Dynamic 2022, would like to know the part numbers to upgrade from halogen tail lights to led ones or how could I get them?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Not really the right thread if you want to get some info, but I came up with this (but it's just the outers it looks like): https://parts.audiusa.com/t/Audi_2022_S3/tail-light-assembly.html.
Meanwhile, I got my favorite cheap ebay purchase so far installed!
Got em here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/354176241104
Next up...
Today's the day I pick mine up. Got a 2 leg train journey from Newcastle to Grimsby to pick mine up this afternoon and drive it back home.
Enjoy the drive back and I hope the car is as you would wish.
I picked mine up a couple of weeks ago and was rather hurried. The tyres were quite worn, between 2 and 3 mm I reckon from feeling the wear indicators.
Audi insisted they were > 3mm, so shrugged it off.
I picked mine up a couple of weeks ago and was rather hurried. The tyres were quite worn, between 2 and 3 mm I reckon from feeling the wear indicators.
Audi insisted they were > 3mm, so shrugged it off.
Mines brand new, so no tread worries, my biggest tyre worry is whether it has ****** Bridgestone tyres fitted.
The dealerships are pretty hot on used cars having a minimum of 3mm tread, so likely to have had 3mm. I'd have checked when I got home and reported any discrepancies back to them. Hard to rectify when buying at distance.
I replace tyres at 3mm anyway, which many bodies consider the minimum effective depth.
Time for some PSs......
If I end up with Bridgestone Potenza, I think I'll be swapping out for Michelin PS4S/PS5 or Goodyear Eagle F1 SS as soon as the Michelin or Goodyear tyres are back on offer at Costco.
My 2015 Golf R came on Flintstones Potenza RE050A and they were truly awful. It was like a new car when the Michelin PSS went on.
I've had winter setup in place since day 1 with my new car, gonna swap the summer tyres maybe tomorrow. I got the Bridgestones, and I'm almost prepared to swap them out too, as I've heard nobody say anything good about the Bridgestones. My previous car got the Pirellis, which I thought were bad enough, and if Bridgestones are even worse, I don't have a choice.
Since I have a basic A3, not the S3, what tyres would you recommend? PS4/5 would be a no-brainer for S3, but are they too sporty for a less sporty car?
First things first, just make sure whatever it has on it has the correct tire pressures! We just went through this on another board and not only myself but at least one other person had a new car with 50 psi in all 4. I have 19s with the Bridgestones and now it feels massively better once I realized how overinflated the tires were.
Still gonna swap for 18" wheels and PS4Ss once these tires are done though.
Still gonna swap for 18" wheels and PS4Ss once these tires are done though.
One question I'd like to find answers to is what are the practical differences between PS and Primacy in everyday driving? I've heard the Pilots may not be as durable at least, because of more track oriented approach, but how's the ride, noise etc. compared to Primacys?
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I went from Bridgestone Potenza’s on my Golf R to Michelin PS4 and the ride was better with less road noise. I then swapped to Goodyear Eagle F1 asymmetric 6 which made the ride more choppy but did improve steering turn in. Feedback from the road was similar with both but overall I preferred the PS4’s. I would suspect that the primacy would be a little softer. Didn’t the chap from Tyre reviews on You Tube do a Michelin comparison?
I collected my S3 yesterday - Flintstone S005s
I would love to meet the VAG bean counter that picks these 5h1tty tyres, slip4 all 4 from my car over their head and roll them down a very steep hill! I will almost certainly be replacing these very soon so that I can get them sold on ebay and recover some of the cost back.
I would love to meet the VAG bean counter that picks these 5h1tty tyres, slip4 all 4 from my car over their head and roll them down a very steep hill! I will almost certainly be replacing these very soon so that I can get them sold on ebay and recover some of the cost back.
Bummer! Once I ordered my S3, I was told it's going to be either Bridgestones or Pirrelis. I've actually driven Bridgestone Turanza T005's on my old Bimmer for 4 years now, and the main issue I have with them is how hard they feel, especially while cold! I can only imagine this worsen on 19s. Are you going for a straight swap or will you be trying to get used to them?
I think straight swap when Costco tyre offers rotate to Michelin (Likely PS4S) or Goodyear (Eagle Asy F1 SS).
Just did the obligatory OBD11 work this morning. Bye bye Lane Assist. I have set up engine torque and power output, couldn't see it with the car sat on the drive - maybe they're apparent when you're driving?
Great choice! I was just checking my order documentation for the car, and since I went for 18s, it appears actually I'm set for either Goodyears or Pirrelis. No Bridgestones in sight, yet (phew).
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They used to generally use Bridgestone T and Pirelli P7s. Many new ones now come with Nexen tyres!
I mounted the summer tyres today. To be honest, I was expecting a lot worse - I think the Bridgestones feel remotely decent. I might ask the price for replacing them, but depends a lot if I keep the Bridgestones or not. I think the Pirellis were louder at least.
They really were heavily overpressurized by the factory. I had to let 0,5 bars out to get the right pressures.
They really were heavily overpressurized by the factory. I had to let 0,5 bars out to get the right pressures.
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I only realised today that there is wireless Android Auto. Long story short had to use it for Google Maps as car's Sat Nav kept directing me into closed roads for London Marathon today. Somehow phone cable to car disconnected, but it was still connected via wifi/BT. I only realised like this!
Just given the new one2 coats of G-Techniq C2V3 ceramic sealant and dug out the puddle lights from the glovebox to fit, before realising the NUFC vs Spurs match was about to start. 5-0 at half time, Howay the Lads!
I’ve got mine on order along with the extension connectors too, hopefully save me from removing the door trim, I’ll pop some pictures up when they arrive and I’ve added them. Thanks for the information and links
Fitted EBC Yellowstuff pads to the front.
Whatever was on the car originally felt a bit wooden and lacking bite.
Whatever was on the car originally felt a bit wooden and lacking bite.
Fitted my Audi Rings beam units today, what an absolute twunt of a job. I didn't have puddle lights as standard so had to retrofit with a Rocket wires loom. Took about 3 hours all in due to some complications along the way. Passenger door first. The speaker grille you remove to access the Torx T25 bolts feels impossibly tight to get off. My trim tools were flexing a lot as I tried to get decent leverage. I knew exactly where the clips were, but it didn't help, I really did think I was going to break something getting it off. It's quite flexible.
Once that was off and the bolts were out, the door card pegs were once again incredibly tight, but I persevered. The top ridge hangover and clipping is also very tight (you don't get these details on the instructions. As the red door open warning lights are only a tenner a pair in addition to the £33 looms, it seemed rude not to buy and fit those too. the door card is soft enough to be cut with a stanley knife that has a brand new blade in it. There's a hollow lump of plastic directly behind where the red light plugs in and you have to carve some of that out to accomodate the plug. Not too bad with the card off. Unplugging the brown power wire from the controller block was easy on the passenger door, the block only accommodates a few wires, press the tang in on the pin and pull it out. Insert the pin from the piggyback loom and plug the wire you freed up with another end of the loom to maintain the circuit. Door fits back on from the top, clipping into the rail (having to start at one end and push down very hard to line everything up). At that point I tested out the electrics - do not want to put everything back together and then have to pull it apart. So I got the OBD11 out, coded both doors in for activating "Exit lights". Ignition off, back on and then...Red light on, Audi rings not. Turns out the Audi rings connector wasn't pushed full home - Phew! Door card fully clipped back and tighten the torx bolts. One last check of everything before I refit that horrible speaker grille - I do not want to ever need to remove that again.
Drivers door was exactly the same with one exception - the drivers side controller block. It's quite congested, a lot of wires surrounding the brown one that needs to be pulled. On my controller block, the tang for that wire looked mangled, I could not get it out the way it was intended. It took me the best part of an hour to tease it out and broke it on the way out. I was just left with a stump for the tubular spade to fit around the pin on the Rocketwires loom - of course it wouldn't fit around, so had to pop to toolstation and get a 5A terminal block to marry up the 2 ends that should just fit over each other. The wrapped terminal block was tightly against the terminal block once plugged back in to the main door. After that, it was as per the passenger door card refit.
Am I in a rush to get some Audi beams for the back doors and repeat the process? Hell no, they can stay as they are.
Once that was off and the bolts were out, the door card pegs were once again incredibly tight, but I persevered. The top ridge hangover and clipping is also very tight (you don't get these details on the instructions. As the red door open warning lights are only a tenner a pair in addition to the £33 looms, it seemed rude not to buy and fit those too. the door card is soft enough to be cut with a stanley knife that has a brand new blade in it. There's a hollow lump of plastic directly behind where the red light plugs in and you have to carve some of that out to accomodate the plug. Not too bad with the card off. Unplugging the brown power wire from the controller block was easy on the passenger door, the block only accommodates a few wires, press the tang in on the pin and pull it out. Insert the pin from the piggyback loom and plug the wire you freed up with another end of the loom to maintain the circuit. Door fits back on from the top, clipping into the rail (having to start at one end and push down very hard to line everything up). At that point I tested out the electrics - do not want to put everything back together and then have to pull it apart. So I got the OBD11 out, coded both doors in for activating "Exit lights". Ignition off, back on and then...Red light on, Audi rings not. Turns out the Audi rings connector wasn't pushed full home - Phew! Door card fully clipped back and tighten the torx bolts. One last check of everything before I refit that horrible speaker grille - I do not want to ever need to remove that again.
Drivers door was exactly the same with one exception - the drivers side controller block. It's quite congested, a lot of wires surrounding the brown one that needs to be pulled. On my controller block, the tang for that wire looked mangled, I could not get it out the way it was intended. It took me the best part of an hour to tease it out and broke it on the way out. I was just left with a stump for the tubular spade to fit around the pin on the Rocketwires loom - of course it wouldn't fit around, so had to pop to toolstation and get a 5A terminal block to marry up the 2 ends that should just fit over each other. The wrapped terminal block was tightly against the terminal block once plugged back in to the main door. After that, it was as per the passenger door card refit.
Am I in a rush to get some Audi beams for the back doors and repeat the process? Hell no, they can stay as they are.
First drive at night - it's confirmed that I have no ambient lighting, none - nothing on the doors (no way i'm taking that door card off again to fit some), dash or footwells. last time I didn't have ambient lighting on a VAG car was my 2011 Scirocco.
Have you checked it’s not just switched off in the mmi settings
On my previous 8y I didn’t even know it had ambient or footwell until I saw it toggled off in the settings
Yep, I've been all through the MMI menus, I have nothing related to interior lighting settings anywhere there in either "settings" or "car settings", all I have is the option to change the threshold that auto lights change dipped beam over.
I just finished my first longer trip with the car, did a 1000 km (620 miles) journey. I found out some odd issues.
Tire noise: Rough Finnish spring tarmac causes quite high-pitched howling tire noise at higher speeds. With my previous car I was blaming the Pirelli tires for that, but now the Bridgestones do exactly the same, so it seems the car itself is the guilty one, not the tires. I'm afraid changing the tires won't solve this problem. Summer smoothens the tarmac here a bit, so I hope it won't be that loud after a while.
Changes in the MHEV operating cycles cause tapping to the accelerator pedal when using cruise / ACC. Taps are clearly noticeable through shoe, while resting the foot on the pedal. The old car didn't do that. Have anybody else noticed the same? It's a minor issue, but still a bit annoying. Reminds me of some old cars, which cruise control actually moved the pedal.
Otherwise the car seems to be trouble-free.
Tire noise: Rough Finnish spring tarmac causes quite high-pitched howling tire noise at higher speeds. With my previous car I was blaming the Pirelli tires for that, but now the Bridgestones do exactly the same, so it seems the car itself is the guilty one, not the tires. I'm afraid changing the tires won't solve this problem. Summer smoothens the tarmac here a bit, so I hope it won't be that loud after a while.
Changes in the MHEV operating cycles cause tapping to the accelerator pedal when using cruise / ACC. Taps are clearly noticeable through shoe, while resting the foot on the pedal. The old car didn't do that. Have anybody else noticed the same? It's a minor issue, but still a bit annoying. Reminds me of some old cars, which cruise control actually moved the pedal.
Otherwise the car seems to be trouble-free.
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Paid a pound last night for the months trial of the ACC system, which is pretty much just tying Audi presence and the CC together. I've had ACC standard fit on my last 8 VAG cars, so I'm probably going to buy it, just wanted to know it works as well as expected - it does.
I've been through most of the European markets on the my Audi map to determine who's cheapest - it looks like Poland for 3 years or Luxembourg as a permanent purchase.
I generally change cars every 2 or so years, but my plan this time around is to keep this S3 as long as I can before VAG decides it is pulling out of ICEV before the 2030 deadline (if it doesn't move) and then push the boat out and order one of the last RS3s. That is unless BEVs improve massively on range in the next 5 years.
We have a Cupra Born BEV, and it's great, except for one thing - Range. We actually had 2, the S3 has replaced one of them.
The official range of electric vehicles is based on the very best scenario - Summer temperatures and urban driving, range really suffers at motorway speeds and in the Winter - our "262 mile" Born is a realistic 200 mile range in the Summer and 140 miles in the Winter, then 40 minutes charge every 2 hours of driving - not great for motorway driving. I'd be wanting at least 300 miles Winter motorway driving before we'd have both cars as BEV again (while we have a choice).
I've been through most of the European markets on the my Audi map to determine who's cheapest - it looks like Poland for 3 years or Luxembourg as a permanent purchase.
I generally change cars every 2 or so years, but my plan this time around is to keep this S3 as long as I can before VAG decides it is pulling out of ICEV before the 2030 deadline (if it doesn't move) and then push the boat out and order one of the last RS3s. That is unless BEVs improve massively on range in the next 5 years.
We have a Cupra Born BEV, and it's great, except for one thing - Range. We actually had 2, the S3 has replaced one of them.
The official range of electric vehicles is based on the very best scenario - Summer temperatures and urban driving, range really suffers at motorway speeds and in the Winter - our "262 mile" Born is a realistic 200 mile range in the Summer and 140 miles in the Winter, then 40 minutes charge every 2 hours of driving - not great for motorway driving. I'd be wanting at least 300 miles Winter motorway driving before we'd have both cars as BEV again (while we have a choice).
I got these from ultimate customs in uk. I tried to find them in the website so as i could send you the link but as it seems they are not available. They have some else tho.
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How do they fix? Sticky pads, worm screws that bite into the original shifters or full replacement that mean taking the steering wheel to bits to fit?
I have found something looking very similar on ebay (not the bottom half), that seemingly fixes with 2 worm screws on each paddle. Just hoping to ensure that they're secure and won't wreck the original shifters.
Mine had a gap between the paddle (still one piece but has a gap at the very bottom of the paddle ) that you can slightly open and “hug” the original paddle and then there is an alen screw that connects the gap and tightens it. I hope that you can unsderstand me
. The result feels very secure. The original paddle doesnt have any issue at all.
