What have you done to your 8V today?

dp_motley

2019 A3 35TFSI S line
Was busying myself with a small styling project. I color matched star shaped center caps of my new S3 replicas to the rim color. Some may say I doesn't matter, but I really don't like when the center caps of this design are lighter than the gun metal alloys. It seems unnatural to me as I think that if something is fitted deeper, it should look darker or at least the same shade of grey. Initially I considered darker color, not black though, but then I found spray paint that was an exact match, so bought it. I covered the centre caps with gloss clear coat, so they are protected and look like a part of the wheel now :) Also, I de-chromed the cap "nuts" making them satin black. It took some time and it was my first experience with a spray can, not saying that materials wasn't cheap as well, but I liked the result at the end and that was what it was all about :)

S3 replica wheel 19 inch with painted center caps 1.jpg
S3 replica wheel 19 inch with painted center caps 2.jpg
S3 replica wheel 19 inch with painted center caps 3.jpg
 

Ice Kay

Active Member
VCDS Map User
I did buy it from amazon. How do you activate the free trail. Connected to the car but it was asking me to pay £9.99 for a months use when i tried to make a change
I picked the years option and then it said the first month is free and then will revert to charges but you just cancel the subscription before the month is over
 

Phone Tech

Registered User
This is a common misconception. I saw many cars for sale where the sellers state that their car has the LED headlights while they have the bi-xenons with the LED DRL.
no my friend IT ISN'T ;) I didn't go for them as they are still expensive + work I purchased these lights for £500 and work done was £300 so £700
With full leds it would cost me grand or even over
 

SPIKE_

Vorsprung durch Technik
Was busying myself with a small styling project. I color matched star shaped center caps of my new S3 replicas to the rim color. Some may say I doesn't matter, but I really don't like when the center caps of this design are lighter than the gun metal alloys. It seems unnatural to me as I think that if something is fitted deeper, it should look darker or at least the same shade of grey. Initially I considered darker color, not black though, but then I found spray paint that was an exact match, so bought it. I covered the centre caps with gloss clear coat, so they are protected and look like a part of the wheel now :) Also, I de-chromed the cap "nuts" making them satin black. It took some time and it was my first experience with a spray can, not saying that materials wasn't cheap as well, but I liked the result at the end and that was what it was all about :)

View attachment 187438 View attachment 187439 View attachment 187440
Great idea, and looks really well. It’s always the simple ones that have the biggest impact!
 

Mitch H

Registered User
Was busying myself with a small styling project. I color matched star shaped center caps of my new S3 replicas to the rim color. Some may say I doesn't matter, but I really don't like when the center caps of this design are lighter than the gun metal alloys. It seems unnatural to me as I think that if something is fitted deeper, it should look darker or at least the same shade of grey. Initially I considered darker color, not black though, but then I found spray paint that was an exact match, so bought it. I covered the centre caps with gloss clear coat, so they are protected and look like a part of the wheel now :) Also, I de-chromed the cap "nuts" making them satin black. It took some time and it was my first experience with a spray can, not saying that materials wasn't cheap as well, but I liked the result at the end and that was what it was all about :)

View attachment 187438 View attachment 187439 View attachment 187440

Wanted to do this for a while do you have the paint code for the colour match? Thanks
 

larbel

Registered User
Tested the wireless CarPlay adapter today, working properly overall, but can't switch to RHD display because there's no setting interface, and since I'm on iOS 13 beta 4, the BT audio is a little choppy, was told the adapter's firmware update would fix it but waiting for the URL for the update... I don't use CarPlay much since it's somewhat troublesome with the wire, was hoping the wireless solution would bring new use to it, will see if that's the case once the BT audio is fixed.

IMG_2486.jpg


Also went to a friend's shop and witnessed for the first time someone actually going through with the Clubsport wannabe retractable spoiler's installation :wtf: Seen this kit around for so long but someone actually installing it LMAO But it's pretty nut seeing it in person lol

IMG_2485.jpg
 

dp_motley

2019 A3 35TFSI S line
Wanted to do this for a while do you have the paint code for the colour match? Thanks
I used Motip Autospray 51038 with Motip gloss clear varnish. I also used Motip Plastic Primer before the paint. Speaking of the color, it's a good match to my rims that are replica of the S3 ones. If you've got the genuine ones, the color may differ.
 

AlS3BE

Registered User
Tested the wireless CarPlay adapter today, working properly overall, but can't switch to RHD display because there's no setting interface, and since I'm on iOS 13 beta 4, the BT audio is a little choppy, was told the adapter's firmware update would fix it but waiting for the URL for the update... I don't use CarPlay much since it's somewhat troublesome with the wire, was hoping the wireless solution would bring new use to it, will see if that's the case once the BT audio is fixed.

View attachment 187596

Also went to a friend's shop and witnessed for the first time someone actually going through with the Clubsport wannabe retractable spoiler's installation :wtf: Seen this kit around for so long but someone actually installing it LMAO But it's pretty nut seeing it in person lol

View attachment 187597

Have you got a link to that adapter?
Annoys me that I need a cable for carplay when my car has wireless charging.
 

Ormesome

Registered User
Have you got a link to that adapter?
Annoys me that I need a cable for carplay when my car has wireless charging.

2nd this. defo would love to buy soemthing that makes it wireless, especially with the new Carplay coming out.
 

JohnM100

Registered User
VCDS Map User
Gold Supporter
she is now one month old.

-full black
-carbon spoiler
-carbon diffuser
-front lip
-res delete
-carbon exhaust tips
-GMP atom rims

coming up
-air intake
-carbon mirror caps
-carbon trims

That is one seriously shiny car!
 

Mylee

Registered User
4 new boots yesterday
Major service booked for Monday, with coolant change, brake fluid change and haldex oil and filter clean also..........It's gonna be an expensive month!
Fitted new front pads myself to save a few pennies :)
 

jrumball

Registered User
Discovered condensation it my other outside rear light cluster .... left one was replaced under warranty a few moths ago anyone else had this ?

Not the best photo....
IMG_6649.jpg
 

Pook

Registered User
587720C9-6D6C-4D92-A83F-6067ADD6AF38.jpeg


Did that didn’t I, what a b**lend. First damage to a wheel ever, gutted. Got distracted in a storm coming out of McDonald’s and boosh, mounted the outside kerb, lucky it wasn’t worse really, tyre protection really tried its best. Ah well, sh*t happens.
 

Kayobong

Registered User
View attachment 187889

Did that didn’t I, what a b**lend. First damage to a wheel ever, gutted. Got distracted in a storm coming out of McDonald’s and boosh, mounted the outside kerb, lucky it wasn’t worse really, tyre protection really tried its best. Ah well, sh*t happens.

That doesn't look too bad to be honest, a few people here have been able to fix similar damage with some DIY methods.
 

Pook

Registered User
Y
That doesn't look too bad to be honest, a few people here have been able to fix similar damage with some DIY methods.
yea I got away with it slightly, most of the damage is actually on the underside lip not the face. If anyone has any advice on making it slightly better be much appreciated . I won’t be getting it refurbed for that, the wheel never quite looks the same and it really is only a small graze
 

Kayobong

Registered User

Pook

Registered User
Cool thanks for that. Can’t see me getting that adventurous haha. Guess the problem I have is most of the damage being under the lip edge I won’t get a machine device onto the surface.
 

Rcord

Registered User
Finally got temperatures displayed on my PFL A3, MM1, TPMS screen. Usual TPMS retrofits for the PFL 8V with MMI1 only display the tyre pressures and fill the temperature fields with a "-60ºC ", which has an ugly, "someting is faulty" look.



IMG_20190806_160132481.jpg
 

Kayobong

Registered User
Finally got temperatures displayed on my PFL A3, MM1, TPMS screen. Usual TPMS retrofits for the PFL 8V with MMI1 only display the tyre pressures and fill the temperature fields with a "-60ºC ", which has an ugly, "someting is faulty" look.



View attachment 187983

I've got TPMS but don't have that menu in a PFL, how'd you get it?
 

Rcord

Registered User
I've got TPMS but don't have that menu in a PFL, how'd you get it?

Do you have a direct TPMS module installed or the indirect, ABS based TPMS? If you got a 5q0907273 TPMS module you are supposed to get the menu, but not the temperature fields. If you installed a 8S0907273 it generates alerts on the cluster but you don't have the screen at all, it's only displayed on MMI2 . In my case I got a 8s0907273 and built a filter circuit with a microcontroller and wrote a program to remove some CAN Bus messages and insert others that are lacking. Not a commercially available solution though.
 

jrumball

Registered User
Do you have a direct TPMS module installed or the indirect, ABS based TPMS? If you got a 5q0907273 TPMS module you are supposed to get the menu, but not the temperature fields. If you installed a 8S0907273 it generates alerts on the cluster but you don't have the screen at all, it's only displayed on MMI2 . In my case I got a 8s0907273 and built a filter circuit with a microcontroller and wrote a program to remove some CAN Bus messages and insert others that are lacking. Not a commercially available solution though.

Very interesting be very interested to understand what you did little bit more in detail
 

Kayobong

Registered User
Do you have a direct TPMS module installed or the indirect, ABS based TPMS? If you got a 5q0907273 TPMS module you are supposed to get the menu, but not the temperature fields. If you installed a 8S0907273 it generates alerts on the cluster but you don't have the screen at all, it's only displayed on MMI2 . In my case I got a 8s0907273 and built a filter circuit with a microcontroller and wrote a program to remove some CAN Bus messages and insert others that are lacking. Not a commercially available solution though.

I have no idea, I get an alert on the instrument cluster screen if the pressures are low. Never really looked too much into it
 

Rcord

Registered User
I have no idea, I get an alert on the instrument cluster screen if the pressures are low. Never really looked too much into it
As far as I know, direct TPMS is not available from factory except for the RS3 so, if yours is not a retrofit, it's an indirect TPMS. Indirect TPMS doesn't really measure tyre pressures. Instead, it relies on the ABS module data to look for differences in the speed of a wheel as compared to the others, which can be due to a change in the circumference of the wheel (that's why you can't have access to real pressures and why indirect TPMS doesn't work very well, for example, if a tyre loses pressure very slowly).
 

Kayobong

Registered User
As far as I know, direct TPMS is not available from factory except for the RS3 so, if yours is not a retrofit, it's an indirect TPMS. Indirect TPMS doesn't really measure tyre pressures. Instead, it relies on the ABS module data to look for differences in the speed of a wheel as compared to the others, which can be due to a change in the circumference of the wheel (that's why you can't have access to real pressures and why indirect TPMS doesn't work very well, for example, if a tyre loses pressure very slowly).

Ah alright, I see, cheers for clearing it up!
 

Pook

Registered User
One pic before, one after in a good light from a ‘normal’ viewing position (looks really decent from that angle), and another a bit closer where if you zoom it’s not quite as good and you can see where it’s bare metal.

Summary - if I’d had a practice wheel this attempt would have been far better. I made the mistake of initially taping up around the repair to limit the damage but then there was no blend and it looked awful. It looked so bad at one point I though f*ck it I may aswell just go for it now and I did. The area I’ve marked was bigger than needed but this was due to the inexperience, but overall if the repair holds up I think it’s pretty good. I left a little nic in the metal as I didn’t want to go too deep to remove this last mark at risk of mis-shaping the wheel too much. Worst case scenario if it still bothers me I could get a refurb but it may not look much better. Just need to buy some lacquer to seal it now. Any recommendations for this welcome. I will only spray the affected area.
 

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Adam14

Registered User
One pic before, one after in a good light from a ‘normal’ viewing position (looks really decent from that angle), and another a bit closer where if you zoom it’s not quite as good and you can see where it’s bare metal.

Summary - if I’d had a practice wheel this attempt would have been far better. I made the mistake of initially taping up around the repair to limit the damage but then there was no blend and it looked awful. It looked so bad at one point I though f*ck it I may aswell just go for it now and I did. The area I’ve marked was bigger than needed but this was due to the inexperience, but overall if the repair holds up I think it’s pretty good. I left a little nic in the metal as I didn’t want to go too deep to remove this last mark at risk of mis-shaping the wheel too much. Worst case scenario if it still bothers me I could get a refurb but it may not look much better. Just need to buy some lacquer to seal it now. Any recommendations for this welcome. I will only spray the affected area.
Tell you what that's not bad at all, doubt many would notice from a glance as opposed to what it was before. Good stuff

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 

Flying Scotsman

Registered User
Adam, just make sure you use lots of masking tape and use 2 or 3 quick passes of the clearcoat and wait a few minutes for each pass of the clearcoat to flash. Practise on a piece of cardboard, if you have not done this before.
 

Adam14

Registered User
Adam, just make sure you use lots of masking tape and use 2 or 3 quick passes of the clearcoat and wait a few minutes for each pass of the clearcoat to flash. Practise on a piece of cardboard, if you have not done this before.
I don't follow mate? Did you mean to mention me?

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 

Pook

Registered User
Does he mean for me applying the lacquer?
 

Pook

Registered User
Looking on amazon E-Tech alloy wheel lacquer gets good reviews, anyone had any experience? It’s such a small area I need to cover.
 

Jonny B

Registered User
One pic before, one after in a good light from a ‘normal’ viewing position (looks really decent from that angle), and another a bit closer where if you zoom it’s not quite as good and you can see where it’s bare metal.

Summary - if I’d had a practice wheel this attempt would have been far better. I made the mistake of initially taping up around the repair to limit the damage but then there was no blend and it looked awful. It looked so bad at one point I though f*ck it I may aswell just go for it now and I did. The area I’ve marked was bigger than needed but this was due to the inexperience, but overall if the repair holds up I think it’s pretty good. I left a little nic in the metal as I didn’t want to go too deep to remove this last mark at risk of mis-shaping the wheel too much. Worst case scenario if it still bothers me I could get a refurb but it may not look much better. Just need to buy some lacquer to seal it now. Any recommendations for this welcome. I will only spray the affected area.

I think that’s a good result . Save the refurb for the biggie that hopefully never comes .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Kayobong

Registered User
One pic before, one after in a good light from a ‘normal’ viewing position (looks really decent from that angle), and another a bit closer where if you zoom it’s not quite as good and you can see where it’s bare metal.

Summary - if I’d had a practice wheel this attempt would have been far better. I made the mistake of initially taping up around the repair to limit the damage but then there was no blend and it looked awful. It looked so bad at one point I though f*ck it I may aswell just go for it now and I did. The area I’ve marked was bigger than needed but this was due to the inexperience, but overall if the repair holds up I think it’s pretty good. I left a little nic in the metal as I didn’t want to go too deep to remove this last mark at risk of mis-shaping the wheel too much. Worst case scenario if it still bothers me I could get a refurb but it may not look much better. Just need to buy some lacquer to seal it now. Any recommendations for this welcome. I will only spray the affected area.

Looks much better mate, it's pretty good for a first attempt.
 

Flying Scotsman

Registered User
Yup, that was for you Pook, not Adam, my mistake.....clear coat is what you use on auto base coats, diamond cut wheels etc. Lacquer is similar as long as it is clear.
 
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