uprated brakes

RGBARGEE

Well-Known Member
Why do you need uprated brakes? Genuine question.
 

porkopops

Registered User
Just because I've now got over 500bhp (stage 2) and I think it'd be a bit safer as I find myself going faster than realised sometimes!!
 

terminator x

Registered User
*cough*

TX.

Edit - old brakes PFL.
3e3dff9a23f046c95401b01591f6b8f7.jpg


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porkopops

Registered User
Thanks T-1000. How do you find them? Are they a natural incremental upgrade, a big upgrade, quite aggressive, squeal ? I hope you dont mind me asking what the cost was?
 

porkopops

Registered User
@T-1000 - I checked your link for the pads, so it looks like ~£300 for the pads all round. I ebay'd the discs and although I'm unsure of the specific version, they look to be around £600 all round.

Thanks.
 

T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
@T-1000 - I checked your link for the pads, so it looks like ~£300 for the pads all round. I ebay'd the discs and although I'm unsure of the specific version, they look to be around £600 all round.

Thanks.

Discs around £720 iirc.

Pads can be had for £270 from WG motorsport on eBay.

I have no squeal at all and am really happy with them.


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Aoon_M

Registered User
Can anyone who's experienced uprated brakes on their FL RS3 offer any recommendations?
My car is a 2017 FL.

Thanks

Paul


Start with pads, Ferodo DS2500
 

Ross_T_Boss

Registered User
If you order before midnight you can get 20% off the pads - £220 for 2x sets of FCP1664H (shared with many other RS models) here:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ferodo-D...-RS4-Quattro-B7-2005-08-FCP1664H/392868164435

I would say just a pad upgrade and fluid refresh would be sufficient if not tracking it. I have run full stock with 600hp for the past year with some very fast road use, they hold up but do start getting a bit soft.

Of course, if budget allows I'd just do 2-piece, no more expensive in the long run anyway. I recently switched to Reyland - I've seen them used on other platforms for dedicated track cars and they hold up very well - and that is just the cheaper 'straight vane' 370s. I opted for the directional vane 380mm. Also went with Carbotech pads, flushing the fluid with RBF660 for good measure - alot of **** came out of the first ~50mm bleeding at the front, definitely something I will do more frequently going forward.

I did the rear 350mm upgrade as well, see pic in case anyone claims they don't do anything!
 

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porkopops

Registered User
@Ross_T_Boss Many thanks for the comprehensive response.
I'm not intending to track it, so it's more fast road use really (mind you, never say never. But in a track scenario I'd know the limitation anyway).
Thanks for the Reyland tips too.
 

T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
Is anyone here running EBC Redstuff pads?

I’m interested mostly in the lower dusting and also want to run them with reyland discs.

Curious of reylands are corrosion resistant also? The factory discs are terrible.

I’ve had EBC on my 8P.
Terrible pad avoid like the plague.

2 friends had them on their PFL RS3’s and took them off because they where down right dangerous.


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T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
@T-1000

Really that bad? Surprising to hear as EBC have a good rep with other marks. Not the first time I've ready RS3's having some issues with them though. Will take your advice on this one though! :). Are there any low dusting pads out there, or are ferrodo really our best and only choice?

How has rust been on your Reylands when they get wet and sit a while?

I had them on my 8P. Fine at first then after a few hundred miles they lost their bite and caused severe vibration upon braking, took them off and binned em !

1 owner of a PFL local to me said he actually had many brown trouser moments at roundabouts wondering if the car was going to pull up in time.

Another owner friend was at MRC having mapping done, they went out on the road after and Doug made him turn back, same thing, car wouldn’t pull up quickly at all.
Doug actually fitted a set of Ferodo pads he had in stock, the Redstuff went straight in the bin I’m told.

I noticed when I had mine they actually polished the discs up to a mirror finish, which I didn’t think was right, and other owners/users reported the same thing, when I spoke to a brake specialist about this, he said they were basically offering sod all friction reaction with the discs, instead he said all they are doing is polishing up the discs because of the ceramic content that makes for low dust, when they should really be ‘grabbing’ at the discs to slow the car down properly.

Redstuff maybe ok for going to the shops and back, however if you use the cars performance then I’m afraid you’ll come unstuck.

Dust you say? Yes ok the Ferodo do generate it, no more than oem pads though, if it bugs you, wash the car more


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T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
Ferrodo it is. Shame about the dust, would have been nice not to want to wash the car every day :).. Thanks for the info @T-1000

Lol I don’t wash mine every day and I find the dust the Ferodo pads make perfectly acceptable for the job they do.

If your wheels are coated with C5 etc then that also helps when cleaning them.


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T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
@T-1000

Really that bad? Surprising to hear as EBC have a good rep with other marks. Not the first time I've ready RS3's having some issues with them though. Will take your advice on this one though! :). Are there any low dusting pads out there, or are ferrodo really our best and only choice?

How has rust been on your Reylands when they get wet and sit a while?

The Reyland discs are perfect and so much better than the Audi discs.


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Count Drunkula

Registered User
I would have thought Yellowstuff was more suited to the RS3 .

I've used yellow & bluestuff on previous cars with no issues (bluestuff do suffer from hideous beake dust as its an endurance spec pad)

But brake friction materials are a very subjective thing, I loved DS2500 on my EP3 civic type-R but then had a bad experience with them on my Astra VXR so would be hesitant to use them on my RS because of that even though they are highly regarded on here.

Come time to do my fronts I might try a Carbotech compound or Tarox Corsa as I know someone using Corsa pads in their Tarox BBK on a Golf R which sees regular track days
 

Ross_T_Boss

Registered User
I wouldn't bother replacing stock for stock. I just swapped out at 18k miles for Reyland + carbotech despite still having half the life on them. On the spares shelf now!

I know a few guys in EU and many in the US happy with Girodisc for track use. G-LOC GS-1 is the same as Carbotech 1521. I haven't used them personally - I just run the track pads full-time - but feedback is they are very good, more capable than stock, but will feel softer and require more travel than the track line and possibly even stock according to some.
 

frank71RS3

Registered User
Being an American outfit, probably won't find many of anyone here running them. Try some of the yank audi forums?
Ok, thanks for the suggestion. I'm in the UAE so kinda in between but happy to keep researching for now.. Seems like Rayland discs are a popular option too.
 

neg

Registered User
I’ve got Revo (Alcon) discs and DS2500 pads. Discs are a two piece, 10mm larger, lighter and sided (think just over a kg lighter per side too). Work great, no squeal experienced either.


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