Upgrading speakers a3 8L

Very interesting thread.

I've just bought a sub-amp combo, head-unit and facia adapter, and am considering what to do with the speakers.

Think I'll pick up some 13cm 52mm coaxials for the front and a set of 6x9's for the back.

Just wondering if there's any space issues in the back for the 6x9s I need to be aware of?
 
I'll be running the above speakers through the standard wiring and see how they sound
 
The fronts need to be 5.25" components (not coaxials) with 1" tweeters.
The rears need to be 6.5" coaxials (not 6 x 9's)
There's no space issues in the rear, loads of depth
 
I mounted 6x9s behind my rear cards and so have others, although acoustically, it's probably best the speakers are mounted in the original position, sealed against the door cards. But I add loads of sound deadening on the metal panels, and they sound wicked and not muffled at all.
 
Hi to everybody!

Just registered, this is my first post. It seems to be quite little information around interweb about audio upgrades on the 8L A3 and here it seems that are some really knowledgeable people.

I have a 2002 5dr A3 with a RNS-D head-unit(+Xcarlink) and non-Bose speakers and even if I'm not an audiophile I think that the stock system is really rubish(as you already know:) ) I want to improve the sound quality a bit, I'm not looking for perfection or loud music - I just want decent sound. For example, at home I'm very pleased with my cheap and old Hercules 2.1 computer speakers(lots of songs that sound ok on this system, in my car sound horrid). As you can see I'm not really asking for much and I want to keep it on the cheap side so I'm not really interested in a new sub+amp, at least not for now.

I was thinking of ordering Dynamat Extreme and Infinity Ref CS 5020cs speakers for the front doors for a crisper sound. Do you think this will make a noticeable difference and bring the sound quality closer to my needs or the effort is not worthing because of the head-unit? Because the speakers are attached to the plastic door panel, what is the best way to install the Dynamat? On the back of the plastic door panel or on the inner metal door frame or should I not bother with it in my case?

Thanks! Sorry for my english I hope it's easily understandable - not my first language, I'm from Romania( in Transylvania to be more precise and that's why I'm writing this so late. Now I must go to sleep before the sun gets up :) )
 
I just ordered Hertz Dieci DSK 130.2 speakers and a Dynamat clone for the front doors(2 sheets, each ~50cm x 85cm). I ordered the Dynamat clone(i forgot the name :D) because it was recommended to me, on the phone while I confirmed the order,instead of the Dynamat Extreme, they say that from their experience it insulates better and it sticks better - also, the price was exactly the same.

Becasue the mid-range speaker is attached to the plastic door panel and not on the door's metal frame, my common sense tells me I should install the insulation directly on the plastic door panel. Am I wrong about this?

I will install them over the weekend, and I hope there will be a noticeable improvement over the stock sound. If someone is interested I will post feedback after I have them installed.

Have a nice day!
 
So, I instaled the new speakers and the sound deadening material and there's definetly a big improvement over the stock. What I noticed so far:
-a clearer mid-range, even at low volume
-now I can crank up the volume close to 3/4 of the max volume, compared to before when just over 1/2 of the max volume the sound was getting un-listenable; also now at 3/4 of the max volume there is less vibration in the front doors panels than it was before at 1/2 volume
-to start hearing the rear speakers from the front seats,now i have to move the fader more to the back
-an overall better sound

The sound deadenng mat I used is called InPhase Deadquiet and I used 3sheets(45cm x 81cm each) for the front doors, I can't compare it with Dynamat Extreme but I'm pleased with the final result. Also, it was quite easy to install it even if in the end I had my fingers full o cuts. I will definetly sound proof the rear doors, even if I will keep(at least for now) the rear stock speakers.

I'm pleased with the results , is pretty close of what I have expected, but now I want more. I want to change my RNS-D to a 2din aftermaket unit. I like the Blaupunkt New York 800 with Navigation and at around 550E new on Ebay.de it seems really good priced but the main problem is finding a 2din fascia for the 8L A3. Anyone knows where to find one? Is it hard to modify an A4 2-DIN fascia to fit the A3? Will the color of the A4 fascia match with the color of the A3 dash or at least the color of the new radio? Also, will I need to change/modify the original metal cage holder for the new unit?

Here's a pic of my car interior and before/after pics with the a front door panel:
IMG_20110801_164136.jpg


ABXzk.jpg
Pogb8.jpg
 
Hey guys!

New to the forum but I am extremely thankful I found this thread, I picked up my 2002 A3 just over a week ago, had it for 2 days before dropping it off at the body shop to get some paint issues sorted. The bad news about dropping it off, finding out there is a massive audio sale on tomorrow night at my local car audio shop! and not having a car to find out the measurments for speakers etc! :'(

So from what I have read:
5.25" Splits (front doors)
6.5" Coaxial (rear doors)
Fit fine, correct? :S

So what I am looking at getting tomorrow night assuming these measurements are correct:

Headunit: Kenwood KIV-700 $250 (http://au.kenwood.com/Car_Entertainment/1DIN_Receivers/KIV-700)
Front doors: Polk Audio MM5251 5.25" Splits $250AUD (Polk Audio - Mobile Monitor Series - Mobile / Marine Speakers)
Rear doors: Polk Audio MM361 6.5" Coaxial $150 AUD (Polk Audio - Mobile Monitor Series - Mobile / Marine Speakers)
Amplifier: Polk Audio PA 1100.5 5 Channel $700AUD (125W RMS x 4 (2 ohm) and 600W RMS x 1 (1 ohm)) (Polk Audio - PA Series Amplifiers Overview & Models)

Old wiring will no longer be used, fresh speaker wire to all doors and 4awg to power the amp (the extra 600W RMS channel will eventually power a 10 or 12" sub in the future)

Now where can I find these speaker adaptors everybody has been talking about, AndyMac speaker adaptors?

Thanks!
 
Hey guys!

New to the forum but I am extremely thankful I found this thread, I picked up my 2002 A3 just over a week ago, had it for 2 days before dropping it off at the body shop to get some paint issues sorted. The bad news about dropping it off, finding out there is a massive audio sale on tomorrow night at my local car audio shop! and not having a car to find out the measurments for speakers etc! :'(

So from what I have read:
5.25" Splits (front doors)
6.5" Coaxial (rear doors)
Fit fine, correct? :S

So what I am looking at getting tomorrow night assuming these measurements are correct:

Headunit: Kenwood KIV-700 $250 (Kenwood - KIV-700)
Front doors: Polk Audio MM5251 5.25" Splits $250AUD (Polk Audio - Mobile Monitor Series - Mobile / Marine Speakers)
Rear doors: Polk Audio MM361 6.5" Coaxial $150 AUD (Polk Audio - Mobile Monitor Series - Mobile / Marine Speakers)
Amplifier: Polk Audio PA 1100.5 5 Channel $700AUD (125W RMS x 4 (2 ohm) and 600W RMS x 1 (1 ohm)) (Polk Audio - PA Series Amplifiers Overview & Models)

Old wiring will no longer be used, fresh speaker wire to all doors and 4awg to power the amp (the extra 600W RMS channel will eventually power a 10 or 12" sub in the future)

Now where can I find these speaker adaptors everybody has been talking about, AndyMac speaker adaptors?

Thanks!
 
Too bad you didnt get an answer on this.
Did you manage to buy something?
 
Right guys i need some serious help.

I'M completely oblivious to any kind of ICE, I really don't have a clue lol, I'M more on the mechanical side lol.

So I have a 2000 plate audi s3 non bose and with the standard HU, both the front speakers have blown and I've gone and bought Andymac's speaker adaptors and so FLI 5.25" speakers and tweeters.

Now what I need to know is:

Can I just use the old speaker wiring? Can i remove the old speakers and tweeters and then just drop the new ones in? The FLI kit comes with a crossover, do i have to fit this? if so does that mean i have to rip out the existing speaker wiring all the way back to the HU?

Sorry for sounding simple but ICE just is not my thing but I am trying to learn, lol.
 
HI guys, Can someone help identify how I can remove my door panel to get to my speakers - front passenger 8L 2002 A3? speaker just started crackling..
 
My god this all seems alot :| I'd rather pay someone to do the job properly! I was gonna ask andy if he still installs his kit + a few extra (A)
 
Thread revive time!

I recently got a new head unit and can hardly hear the rear speakers. My system runs the fronts off the head unit, so to get the rears working again I would need a 3 channel amp, right? To power the 2 speakers and the sub.

I think the speakers are good quality considering they aren't bose, so I am happy to keep them as is for now. But I think I would upgrade the sub speaker first, any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.
 
This kind of makes sense (i think)

So Currently I'm running stock front and rear speakers straight from a JVC HU with a 12" jvc sub with a 2 channel pioneer amp. the bose as been removed
Its all getting upgraded with Ground Zero subs, amps and speakers but i don't understand the wiring.

Will it work if i run the 5"(13cm) speakers from the headunit and the rear 6.5" speakers and 2x 12" subs with a amp in the boot??
 
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