Upgraded ARB’s question

[juice]

Hello,

I have been researching this topic for the last week and still a bit unsure which route to go

I booked in with MrC tuning to go stage 2 plus only facelift rs3 8v but contemplating to fit H&R roll bars front and rear but have been told that on the rs3 8v you don’t really need to fit the front bar as it will induce the understeer that the chassis is notorious for having and by installing the rear only this helps to reduce that.

now another friend of mine who has a golf r mk6 who has H&R bars front and rear is advising that the bars compliment each other and by having both on (front to soft setting and rear to harsh setting) the car will be flat with no roll whatsover

I kind of need some advice from those who have fitted front and rear rear / rear bars of what’s the best route to go

I have considered other bars but getting a good deal on the H&R bars.
The car is a street car and no trips planned for track yet

it’s already on eibach sport line springs and 11mm spacers all round. And car has mag ride for those may ask these questions.

any help much appreciated.

 

[AlS3BE]

Why not fit the rear bar first and see how you get on before fitting front bar. Won’t really cost that much more in labour. Front bar most likely requires the front subframe out so £££ on labour and alignment.
I’m looking at the rear white line bar and see how I get on first in my s3.

 

[8YARWY]

Rear 034 bar here. Great change to the chassis in corners.

Also have Eibach pro springs and these 2 mods have really enhanced the facelift.

I’d spoke to quite a few people about doing the front ARB but decided against it as it seems there’s need for the road.
I’ve also read one can cancel out the other to some degree.

Reason I went for the 034 ? It has the zerk fittings in the brackets which mean I can grease it quite easily every now and again.


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[Jsimba]

Agree with the comments here.

I put the H&R ARB on mine and it makes a world of difference. I'd suggest installing the rear first and seeing what you think.

The front one is trickier to install and won't make the same amount of difference that adding the rear one does, as accelerating around corners puts more load on the outside rear than any other wheel.

I think you'd probably fund the rear makes enough of a difference and your money is best spent elsewhere than having a front ARB

 

[juice]

Thanks for your replies

I was doing a lot of reading on this

where the front and rear kit costs £410
And h&r provide the front T 27mm two way adjustable and rear at 25’m 2 way adjustable

the rear is £175 on its own so half the price

if the front really did make a difference then I’d do it but from what I understand and what you have writtenX it cancels out the upgraded rear bar and induces understeer again.

I know I can fit the front later but I would rather do the job once first time if it was even worth doingS

looks like it’s going to be just the rear then for now as I understand every mqb vag car chassis is different and the golfs may need front and rear but the rs3 just needs the rear and the benefit of not doing the alignment either.

reason-for opting h&r is the Teflon non greasing bushes and price.
Would love 034 motorsport one £££££

thanks for the replies, any more with this set up would be nice to hear from you.

 

[juice]

Update; spoke with awesome Gti/Haz motorsport

both recommend to do the rear only. If you fit a front one it just defeats the purpose of upgrading the rear
The car naturally will understeer again

so going the hr rear bar route

thanks for everyone who commented

can’t wait till the 6th till it all
Gets fitted

 

[Jsimba]

Will be interested to hear if you notice the difference. I think it transforms handling. Great value mod

 

[flybynite]

I have been looking at this as well and this is my take on things. The ARB sets have been made for the 8V with no differentiation between the FL and PFL that I can see, however the cars and their behaviour are quite different. I have a FL and have driven a fair bit in the PFL. Have not driven an 8p for comparison.

The same rear bar will have a greater effect on the FL than the PFL as it has less weight to counter. That might be a good thing in some ways but it can have a negative effect on things like high-speed lift-off oversteer (the type that caused an issue in the early TT) so I would be cautious in over-doing the RARB in a FL.

Mine is quite planted high-speed lift off at the moment and I'm not keen to mess with that too much

I have upgraded the RARB on many VAG cars and they needed it but have never gone bigger on the rear than the front. I can see the reasoning for the 8p/PFL but not sure on the FL. I think 034 have taken that into account because they have made the front bar not as strong over standard as the rear.

Front 18%-40% over standard
Rear 81%-102% over standard

You would still have between 84% and 41% rear bias depending on which hole you picked and I think that would be ideal for a FL and give you the ability to tweak it

H&R don't release figures for their bars so difficult to compare

The more I drive the FL I just don't think it needs the full rear bar with nothing at the front to temper it. Problem is I have the H&R waiting to go on but think a pair of 034 would be a better fit (for me and my FL anyway)

 

[Terminator x]

PFL is rear only. Did it on mine and it was noticeable better.

FL not even sure it's needed as it was better out the box.

TX.

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[Jsimba]

Getting both front and rear done would largely negate any benefit of installing the rear bar, as per previous posts here. I don't want to tell you what to do/think, however there are several people who have done the rear ARB of the FL, myself included, and highlighted the positive difference it makes. I guess you can decide whether you go with the feedback or your gut instinct..

 

[juice]

Hi guys; just a quick update on the car etc

so Thursday last week headed to Mrc tuning
Stage 2 mapping with hardware bits installed and switchable maps including the rear hr arb.
I can say that driving back home was completely different. The car felt brand new and so much power in a straight line as well as a twisty country road and felt so planted.
The car is Deceptively fast!

then I had the car serviced on Friday the day after
(New brake pads and discs went on 3 weeks ago prior to friday
Braided brake lines
Castrol srf brake fluid
Oil and filter change
Wheel spacers front and rear
Haldex oil change

drive the car home and the car felt
Funny to drive, almost like a fwd car. The car was spinning up the front wheels with the needle racing through the dash display but no traction. I was thinking oh f*k another stupid cost! But contacted the mechanic and took it back to him today after scanning the car and getting the p16666 haldex clutch pump open circuit fault.
Took the car back drained the haldex oil
Pump removed and cleaned and opened up with the copper brush stuck inside in an area of the motor . All cleaned and installed again and drove home and proper gave it the beens

i can confirm that with the widened stance and the rear arb
The car handles like it’s on rails. The power is relentless and so conteolled
Massive thumbs up from me !!!

 

[Jsimba]

Hi guys; just a quick update on the car etc

so Thursday last week headed to Mrc tuning
Stage 2 mapping with hardware bits installed and switchable maps including the rear hr arb.
I can say that driving back home was completely different. The car felt brand new and so much power in a straight line as well as a twisty country road and felt so planted.
The car is Deceptively fast!

then I had the car serviced on Friday the day after
(New brake pads and discs went on 3 weeks ago prior to friday
Braided brake lines
Castrol srf brake fluid
Oil and filter change
Wheel spacers front and rear
Haldex oil change

drive the car home and the car felt
Funny to drive, almost like a fwd car. The car was spinning up the front wheels with the needle racing through the dash display but no traction. I was thinking oh f*k another stupid cost! But contacted the mechanic and took it back to him today after scanning the car and getting the p16666 haldex clutch pump open circuit fault.
Took the car back drained the haldex oil
Pump removed and cleaned and opened up with the copper brush stuck inside in an area of the motor . All cleaned and installed again and drove home and proper gave it the beens

i can confirm that with the widened stance and the rear arb
The car handles like it’s on rails. The power is relentless and so conteolled
Massive thumbs up from me !!!
View attachment 236769

Good stuff! Rear ARB is brilliant in my view glad it made a difference.

Out of interest what size and brand of spacers did you go for? I had a TTS before my RS3 and the spacers I had on it made such a difference to the stance of the car...

Is that the Maxton front splitter you've got on too?

 

[juice]

Hey buddy
Yes it’s got full maxton styling all round I’m running forge hub centric spacers 11mm all
Round
Longer bolts with new ps4s tyres too

I have proper ocd and need everything perfect
I just need a solution for my front number plate
Anyone run twist and fix number plate holders or sticker plates on the right side of the bumper
I got a 5 digit private plate so it will
Be short and small

next thing to do is
Diff service front and rear and s tronic service

what are the oem rs3 downpipes worth? And midpipes

 

[juice]

 

[S3118]

Looking forward to getting my fitted in a couple of weeks ..Any one fitted Racingline front drop links seems a good mod ?

 

[P.J.]

Hi guys; just a quick update on the car etc

so Thursday last week headed to Mrc tuning
Stage 2 mapping with hardware bits installed and switchable maps including the rear hr arb.
I can say that driving back home was completely different. The car felt brand new and so much power in a straight line as well as a twisty country road and felt so planted.
The car is Deceptively fast!

then I had the car serviced on Friday the day after
(New brake pads and discs went on 3 weeks ago prior to friday
Braided brake lines
Castrol srf brake fluid
Oil and filter change
Wheel spacers front and rear
Haldex oil change

drive the car home and the car felt
Funny to drive, almost like a fwd car. The car was spinning up the front wheels with the needle racing through the dash display but no traction. I was thinking oh f*k another stupid cost! But contacted the mechanic and took it back to him today after scanning the car and getting the p16666 haldex clutch pump open circuit fault.
Took the car back drained the haldex oil
Pump removed and cleaned and opened up with the copper brush stuck inside in an area of the motor . All cleaned and installed again and drove home and proper gave it the beens

i can confirm that with the widened stance and the rear arb
The car handles like it’s on rails. The power is relentless and so conteolled
Massive thumbs up from me !!!
View attachment 236769

Do you know what the H &R RAB was set to, the stiff or weaker of the two holes ?

 

[juice]

Stiffer aide of the holes

 

[flybynite]

Do you know what the H &R RAB was set to, the stiff or weaker of the two holes ?

Are we talking about the H&R RARB for the 8V? the ones I have seen have only one set of holes? Do they have 2 positions now?

 

[juice]

Are we talking about the H&R RARB for the 8V? the ones I have seen have only one set of holes? Do they have 2 positions now?

H&R 25mm Rear Anti Roll Bar – Audi RS3 8V – CLP Automotive

clptuning.co.uk

 

[flybynite]

There are al whole load of generic pictures on the web sites, they don't prove much, the one I have here has one hole each side same as do the pictures on some other 8V forum threads of people fitting them.

How many 8V RS3 have H&R bars with 2-positions?

If they now come with 2 positions I will swap mine as that is what I think the FL 8V needs

 

[flybynite]

H&R 25mm Rear Anti Roll Bar – Audi RS3 8V – CLP Automotive

clptuning.co.uk

But if you look at Awesome it has 3!

H&R Anti Roll Bar Kit - FR:27/RE:25mm - Audi RS3 8V

Specialist in performance parts for the VW Audi Seat Skoda Group cars. Interest free finance available on all car tuning parts and we have our fully equipped specialist workshop in Manchester.

www.awesomegti.com

 

[Greasyshaft]

Maybe you need something like the EDM kit. I have a S4 and EDM sells a stage 1 kit, you get rear ARB only and a set of lowering springs. This is dial out the understeer. Though I have only noticed this on right angle turns, sweepers aint so bad. I dunno about the RS3.

 

[flybynite]

Maybe you need something like the EDM kit. I have a S4 and EDM sells a stage 1 kit, you get rear ARB only and a set of lowering springs. This is dial out the understeer. Though I have only noticed this on right angle turns, sweepers aint so bad. I dunno about the RS3.

Thanks for the suggestion but I know the options for the RS3. I was just trying to find out if the H&R rear bar for the 8V was now adjustable or it was usual forum "information"

PFL is rear only. Did it on mine and it was noticeable better.
FL not even sure it's needed as it was better out the box.

That is my point, FL needs something but a lot less, either an adjustable rear bar or a bit taking out of the rear by using a front bar on low setting.

Otherwise you get the usual high-speed problems associated with too strong a rear bias on the ARB

 

[juice]

When I get a chance and it’s dry I’ll get unDer the car and take a picture to
Show u buddy

 

[8YARWY]

H&R has one hole

034 has 2 holes.


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[flybynite]

H&R has one hole
034 has 2 holes.

That's what I thought, all this talk about 2 holes made me wonder if it had changed recently.
Neuspeed rear also has 2

 

[Slowracer]

When I did the research I was told the h&r bar was one of the stiffest in the market so you shouldn't need the second hole for stiffer setting as it may make the car unbalanced. I have a Superpro bar which is on the soft side so I use the stiff setting, second hole.

Using a 2 hole bar you really should have adjustable links as non adjustable end up on a sharp angle to reach the send hole setting.

 

[flybynite]

the second hole for stiffer setting as it may make the car unbalanced.

For this reason I don't want it that much stiffer than standard on a FL, if you make the rear too stiff there are consequences. I want a bar setup I can adjust if needed.

The 2 hole bars tend to be a few mm either side of the central position, not just one position stronger so the drop link reaches both (the stronger position obviously being the shorter of the 2)

I could look at fitting the H&R rear bar and then take some of that out with the matching front on the softest setting. Problem is H&R do not release any strength over standard figures like all the others do I would like to have some idea before I do the work (especially on the front)

The 034 is looking the best for me, but IF the H&R rear bar WAS now adjustable I would have used it because they are easier and cheaper to get here in the UK.

It's why I asked the question

 

[juice]

I looked under the car and my error I thought it was two holes
Can confirm the hr bar has one hole.
It takes the corners a lot more flatter now
No roll and I can push the pedal a little more without worrying. It does hold the ground and the difference from
Before is noticeable. I also have the spacers front and rear widening my track also.
also sat on eibach sport like springs.

 

[Sequence]

For this reason I don't want it that much stiffer than standard on a FL, if you make the rear too stiff there are consequences. I want a bar setup I can adjust if needed.

The 2 hole bars tend to be a few mm either side of the central position, not just one position stronger so the drop link reaches both (the stronger position obviously being the shorter of the 2)

I could look at fitting the H&R rear bar and then take some of that out with the matching front on the softest setting. Problem is H&R do not release any strength over standard figures like all the others do I would like to have some idea before I do the work (especially on the front)

The 034 is looking the best for me, but IF the H&R rear bar WAS now adjustable I would have used it because they are easier and cheaper to get here in the UK.

It's why I asked the question

You could take a look at Whiteline, works out to £150 currently. and has 2 holes for adjustment

 

[juice]

Have super pro purchased white line?

I know that white line products in the past have corroded very badly hence why I went hr

 

[flybynite]

Have super pro purchased white line?

Not that I know of, they are opposite sides of the planet

I know that white line products in the past have corroded very badly hence why I went hr

Same here, not heard good things about Whiteline but have used Superpro stuff and not had issues. I think the 22mm (as opposed to the 24mm) Superpro RARB might be what I am looking for but I need to confirm RS3 fitment as there is conflicting info out there.

 

[juice]

Been a while and resurrecting this post up

cars been a dream since doing the mods and I am considering going stage 3 very soon with tte700 and Mrc tune
Would like to see 615/630ps with 740/750nm

looking at upgrading the front arb tk match the hr rear one I have , has anyone got any reviews on fitting a arb to the front of the chassis?

 

[Jsimba]

Been a while and resurrecting this post up

cars been a dream since doing the mods and I am considering going stage 3 very soon with tte700 and Mrc tune
Would like to see 615/630ps with 740/750nm

looking at upgrading the front arb tk match the hr rear one I have , has anyone got any reviews on fitting a arb to the front of the chassis?

Upgrading the front ARB will likely cancel out any handling benefits of doing the rear ARB. I think there are a few posts in here somewhere of people having done both and that have said as much. Doing the rear only would be more effective

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