Facelift Unitronic Inlet elbow

domino_z

Registered User
Sold off my forge before installing and went with eventuri inlet + intake and have zero issues on my rhd dwna
 

T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
Any update on this one? Just to remind you, it's easter weekend - perfect opportunity to get it fitted and give us all some feedback :icon thumright:

Still waiting for parts they tell me.


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T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
Update.

next week.

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Ross_T_Boss

Registered User
It's such as odd design. Are you still on the Uni 3" like me? What metrics will you taking before/after to compare?

I now have got hold of the silicone bits to fit the 'bare' RHD Eventuri 4" I bought cheap, so would be useful to also take before/after and see if there's any measurable gains - and if so how they compare.
 

T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
It's such as odd design. Are you still on the Uni 3" like me? What metrics will you taking before/after to compare?

I now have got hold of the silicone bits to fit the 'bare' RHD Eventuri 4" I bought cheap, so would be useful to also take before/after and see if there's any measurable gains - and if so how they compare.

At a recent Dyno session I made 537 hp with the unitronic. Wgdc was maxed out in 4th though.

A friend with the forge silicone elbow and similar mapping to mine made 543 hp in his TTRS. Torque was similar too 690 nm vs 700


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T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
Revo is not 4" throughout no RHD pipe can be. Its 4" at its widest point, but really this means little

Yup but for me it’s gonna fit better than the Forge did.
Not perfect solution because RHD cars are hampered by the servo.


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T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
If anyone wants to buy the Unitronic it’ll be coming off the car this weekend as the Revo elbow will be here tomorrow.


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T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
About time, I don’t understand why you would launch a product with no stock at all...


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To be fair to Revo they were promised certain parts by a UK company because their regular supplier abroad couldn't fulfil the due date months back, the UK supplier then didn't deliver the missing parts when promised, which led to this delay, it is what it is really.

The only other issue is the reducer Revo supply is 102 to 95mm where as the Forge Hard pipe is 89mm so I had to order the Forge Reducer.
 

ArrEssDrei

Registered User
Haha, that's some science alright.

Maybe pour a bucket of water though then and time how long to empty it? Not sure the volume it holds tells you a whole lot, but gotta applaud the effort!

That neck down sure makes me wonder if it compares to the cheap forge one I have. Have you plans to dyno it. If not, maybe do back to back draggy runs and look at your trap speed?
 

T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
Haha, that's some science alright.

Maybe pour a bucket of water though then and time how long to empty it? Not sure the volume it holds tells you a whole lot, but gotta applaud the effort!

That neck down sure makes me wonder if it compares to the cheap forge one I have. Have you plans to dyno it. If not, maybe do back to back draggy runs and look at your trap speed?

Dunno was more interested in its volume over the stock item.

Not doing ‘dragy’ runs on the public highway, just look like a Pratt.

Will do logging and another Dyno session soon.

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ArrEssDrei

Registered User
Dunno was more interested in its volume over the stock item.

Not doing ‘dragy’ runs on the public highway, just look like a Pratt.

Will do logging and another Dyno session soon.

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Don't think volume would tell you anything, it's rate of flow flow that would need to be a measured.

Not sure now using draggy makes you a "prat". Trap speed directly relates to HP. I believe you're the one that planned to tune your car on public roads when first speaking of DS1 tuning... I just assumed you have some long straight stretches to play on. Glad to hear you'll be getting some measurements on a dyno and interested to hear the results and impressions.
 
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T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
Don't think volume would tell you anything, it's rate of flow flow that would need to be a measured.

Not sure now using draggy makes you a "prat". Trap speed directly relates to HP. I believe you're the one that planned to tune your car on public roads when first speaking of DS1 tuning... I just assumed you have some long straight stretches to play on. Glad to hear you'll be getting some measurements on a dyno and interested to hear the results and impressions.

As I already said I ain’t interested in Dragy.
I’ve logging data from DS2 with WGDC, HPA etc and data from the rolling session at peron and I’ll compare this to the data I get once the elbow is on.


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seventeenapg

Registered User
Guys Im panicking a bit and need your help...
Was over in England Friday and had the Unitronic elbow fitted and a stage 1 tune done. And on the drive home I was a little concerned about a few metal to metal rattles so I took off the intake pipe today to have a look. First off, the edge of the inlet is hitting against the black metal bracket which holds the brake fluid resevoir in place. I think I can take this bracket off to sand a curve in to it to stop this (can it be removed?) but, more importantly, I could move the elbow a mm or so back and forth. This concerns me. For the easiest to get to torx screw I can tigthen more. I have already given it a half a turn and there is more tightening I could do. But I am afraid of damaging either it or the turbo. On the shot of @T1000 stock elbow I could see its flange was tight up against the turbo; mine has an approx 2/3 mm gap. Should I tighten up further or leave alone?
 

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Sequence

Registered User
Guys Im panicking a bit and need your help...
Was over in England Friday and had the Unitronic elbow fitted and a stage 1 tune done. And on the drive home I was a little concerned about a few metal to metal rattles so I took off the intake pipe today to have a look. First off, the edge of the inlet is hitting against the black metal bracket which holds the brake fluid resevoir in place. I think I can take this bracket off to sand a curve in to it to stop this (can it be removed?) but, more importantly, I could move the elbow a mm or so back and forth. This concerns me. For the easiest to get to torx screw I can tigthen more. I have already given it a half a turn and there is more tightening I could do. But I am afraid of damaging either it or the turbo. On the shot of @T1000 stock elbow I could see its flange was tight up against the turbo; mine has an approx 2/3 mm gap. Should I tighten up further or leave alone?
That has not been fitted correctly the screws should be tight and not halfway out like this! You should also have a scallop in the pipe near the brake servo to give the required clearance.
 

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seventeenapg

Registered User
That has not been fitted correctly the screws should be tight and not halfway out like this! You should also have a scallop in the pipe near the brake servo to give the required clearance.
Tks, I have the scallop. The elbow is brand new. It is not hitting against the master cylinder, it is hitting against the black metal bracket which holds the resevoir. Hope this pic helps,
but more importantly, I am so worried now about the fitting of it. You can see there is a distance between the turbo flange and the elbow flange in the last pic. Coulf this cause leakage of air? I ask this because the car was in the dyno a long time and my sixth sense told me something was wrong because a mate was over as well with his S5 for a stage 1 and it was done in less than an hour. Mine was in for well over 2 hours. I am worried sick now.
 

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Sequence

Registered User
Tks, I have the scallop. The elbow is brand new. It is not hitting against the master cylinder, it is hitting against the black metal bracket which holds the resevoir. Hope this pic helps,
but more importantly, I am so worried now about the fitting of it. You can see there is a distance between the turbo flange and the elbow flange in the last pic. Coulf this cause leakage of air? I ask this because the car was in the dyno a long time and my sixth sense told me something was wrong because a mate was over as well with his S5 for a stage 1 and it was done in less than an hour. Mine was in for well over 2 hours. I am worried sick now.
I see, yea it is 100% not fitted correctly you will find it need to be turned towards the engine and the bolts need to be tightened down where it connects to the turbo, how it is currently would be causing unfiltered air to leak in and more importantly the seal ring could come off and be ingested by the turbo.
Get it fitted correctly asap and avoid driving until it is sorted.
 

T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
Guys Im panicking a bit and need your help...
Was over in England Friday and had the Unitronic elbow fitted and a stage 1 tune done. And on the drive home I was a little concerned about a few metal to metal rattles so I took off the intake pipe today to have a look. First off, the edge of the inlet is hitting against the black metal bracket which holds the brake fluid resevoir in place. I think I can take this bracket off to sand a curve in to it to stop this (can it be removed?) but, more importantly, I could move the elbow a mm or so back and forth. This concerns me. For the easiest to get to torx screw I can tigthen more. I have already given it a half a turn and there is more tightening I could do. But I am afraid of damaging either it or the turbo. On the shot of @T1000 stock elbow I could see its flange was tight up against the turbo; mine has an approx 2/3 mm gap. Should I tighten up further or leave alone?

Who the f**k fitted that ?


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seventeenapg

Registered User

T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
Interesting find today after removing the Unitronic.

It has been hitting the brake servo tip, look at the dent.
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And before any smart comments, it was fitted as close to the engine as possible, there are elongated slots in the flanges to allow you to rock it back and forward to get correct placement.
Just shows how much rocking goes on when under hard acceleration.


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T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
New elbow fitted.......

I think Revo need to QC their product better before dispatch however.
1) Jubilee clip was incorrect and too small
Should be 120mm at least not a cat in hells chance that fits.
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2) Vacuum hose ID too big
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3) It’s designed to mate up to a 93mm hard pipe(ie Revo carbon pipe)
However the Murray constant tension clamps have provided ample clamping force to seal the reducer.
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You will definitely need to remove the bottom cast piece then fitting this Revo.
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Good thing is it’s not near the brake servo tip

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Plenty of room up top as it’s not near the cam solenoid / connector
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Count Drunkula

Registered User
Did you manage to fit without the other reducer from Forge?

I've got a forge hard pipe waiting to fit and was going to get it done same time as whatever inlet elbow I finally decide on
 

T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
Did you manage to fit without the other reducer from Forge?

I've got a forge hard pipe waiting to fit and was going to get it done same time as whatever inlet elbow I finally decide on

Yes I used the Reducer Revo supply.

The 102 to 89 reducer from forge won’t go on the Revo elbow mouth as it’s 105 Dia.

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domino_z

Registered User
what’s the aversion to not just fitting the eventuri inlet and be done with it

I’ve had it on my RHD car now for months and on the dyno, zero issues with fitment or rubbing

Installed and forgot about it
 

T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
what’s the aversion to not just fitting the eventuri inlet and be done with it

I’ve had it on my RHD car now for months and on the dyno, zero issues with fitment or rubbing

Installed and forgot about it

Lol why ? Because you fitted it ? so it’s a given everyone else has to emoji23]



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