Underboost issue?

benny279

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Hey,

I have this strange issue that happens occasionally but not all the time, where on dual carriageways or motorways putting my foot down the car goes into limp mode and flashing glow plug light? The error its producing is:

16683 - Boost Pressure Regulation: Control Range Not Reached

Sometimes this throws the MIL on and a simple clear of the error, it doesn't return for a while. However, if I boot the car e.g. using third gear all the way to 3-4k rpms then changing gears its fine. If I don't then that error comes up? Upon searching other threads suggests a boost leak (outside of the car you hear no boost leak, and I know what a boost leak sounds like as my old A3 had one!) Then saw another thread suggesting the actuator repair kit, but I thought I'd post here before I do anything and hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.

My engine code is CBA 140PS 2.0 TDI.

Thanks in advance.
 
Solved

Was just a loose hose, tightened it and took car for a blast and full power again! :D
 
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Issue came back, so I took it to a VW/Audi specialist near me and they connected it to VCDS and this is what it reports:

000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 - 000 - Control Range Not Reached

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2783 /min
Speed: 119.0 km/h
Load: 68.6%
Absolute Pres. : 2335.8 mbar
Absolute Pres.: 1662.6 mbar
Lambda: 87.6%
Lambda 25.3%

Then they said possible air leak to their suspicion they were right, the solonoid valve on top of the turbo is faulty as it's not holding vacuum.
They got a hose connected it to the side of the turbo and sucked on it but there wasn't any resistant there.

Is this an expensive repair? Is it a easy repair for anyone to do? They couldn't give me a price at the time as they were quite busy and said to ring tomorrow for a price.

Thanks in advance.
 
I think you may be as wise to change the charger for a recon unit, more cost effective in the long run.
 
Turbo actuator.

Had the same fault on mine, replaced yesterday and it's all good now!

How long does it take to do? I've seen its about £120 ish for the kit my question how much would labour be...
 
How long does it take to do? I've seen its about £120 ish for the kit my question how much would labour be...

Yeah cost me £132 for the kit (genuine) from Mike the site sponsor, took around 2-3 hours me and my mate did it so not sure how much the labour would be.
 
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Yeah cost me £132 for the kit (genuine) from Mike the site sponsor, took around 2-3 hours me and my mate did it so not sure how much the labour would be.

Ah I was close on the price, I'll see what the specialist say tomorrow when they quote me. Whatever the price is I'll pay it as it's annoying the crap out of me!

Thanks for the reply!
 
Ah I was close on the price, I'll see what the specialist say tomorrow when they quote me. Whatever the price is I'll pay it as it's annoying the **** out of me!

Thanks for the reply!

In fact I got a quote from an Audi specialist and they wanted £233.77 inc
 
Probably be the same for me, not too bad I guess when you compare that to the price of a new turbo lol

Yeah very true, there hasn't always been the repair kit available meaning people would just fork out for a complete new turbo.

My actuator wasn't holding vacuum at all, you could easily do your own test on it though.
 
Yeah very true, there hasn't always been the repair kit available meaning people would just fork out for a complete new turbo.

My actuator wasn't holding vacuum at all, you could easily do your own test on it though.

Well they just did the suck test and the guy was forever sucking and put tongue to hold it but it just wasn't holding it at all, I'm guessing thats the best method to test it? It only does this limp mode in 5th and 6th, using 3rd allowed me to get pass the issue but on a incline it would just fall back and go back into limp. Driving around town and what not is fine.

I knew about the kit but wasn't too sure if my problem was related until today when I took it to the specialist to get it on diagnostics and have them do tests on it.

I would get the kit and do it myself but I'm not that clued up on turbos only certain mechanical things and electrics.
 
On my car it seems to be an old issue that's not been rectified by the previous owner, which isn't surprising at all. The reset counter is 255...
 
Well they just did the suck test and the guy was forever sucking and put tongue to hold it but it just wasn't holding it at all, I'm guessing thats the best method to test it? It only does this limp mode in 5th and 6th, using 3rd allowed me to get pass the issue but on a incline it would just fall back and go back into limp. Driving around town and what not is fine.

I knew about the kit but wasn't too sure if my problem was related until today when I took it to the specialist to get it on diagnostics and have them do tests on it.

I would get the kit and do it myself but I'm not that clued up on turbos only certain mechanical things and electrics.

Sounds very much like what I had and also the same fault code so pretty certain it's the actuator. Yeah same test was done on mine so at least you've found the problem and can get it resolved.

My car feels much faster now the actuator is working, so much more pull. Also checked the turbos internals why I was at it and not much play at all and the linkage wasn't stiff - if it was it means the veins are sticking.
 
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Sounds very much like what I had and also the same fault code so pretty certain it's the actuator. Yeah same test was done on mine so at least you've found the problem and can get it resolved.

My car feels much faster now the actuator is working, so much more pull. Also checked the turbos internals why I was at it and not much play at all and the linkage wasn't stiff - if it was it means the veins are sticking.

Yeah I was forever racking my brains trying to figure it out lol

Soon as I have a quote from the specialist I'll get it booked in! I did have a few garages say it needs a new turbo and every time I was told that I said no to them and left, as I'm one for looking into my options before deeming the worse.
 
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Question, is it still fine to drive around locally in the mean time until it gets booked in? Other than dealing with the limp mode here and there.
 
Question, is it still fine to drive around locally in the mean time until it gets booked in? Other than dealing with the limp mode here and there.

I wouldn't know to be honest, sure someone maybe able to help.

Mine was fine in all gears apart from 6th at around 70 where it would go into limp mode when I came to an incline. I stayed at 65 and it would be fine.
 
I wouldn't know to be honest, sure someone maybe able to help.

Mine was fine in all gears apart from 6th at around 70 where it would go into limp mode when I came to an incline. I stayed at 65 and it would be fine.

Yeah mines the same if I stay around 60's it's fine, I'll just drive it steady for the time being as it won't be too long before I get it booked in and have it fixed. I'll just try and avoid motorways and what not if I can.
 
Yeah mines the same if I stay around 60's it's fine, I'll just drive it steady for the time being as it won't be too long before I get it booked in and have it fixed. I'll just try and avoid motorways and what not if I can.

Yeah good idea, let us know how you get on
 
You saying replace the whole turbo?
If your going to take off the turbo, which you will probably need to to get to the N75 valve and actuator, your best to replace the parts with the kit you can get, I've seen that you have a few prices to replace the kit, but are they going to take the turbo apart and clean the internals which get very gunked up with black crud from the diesel burnt off???
What I'm saying is if you fix this problem? your still likely to get a blown turbo in the future, which can get into the intercooler and also the catalytic converter and cost more.
 
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If your going to take off the turbo, which you will probably need to to get to the N75 valve and actuator, your best to replace the parts with the kit you can get, I've seen that you have a few prices to replace the kit, but are they going to take the turbo apart and clean the internals which get very gunked up with black crud from the diesel burnt off???
What I'm saying is if you fix this problem? your still likely to get a blown turbo in the future, which can get into the intercooler and also the catalytic converter and cost more.

To change the actuator you don't need to take the turbo or N75 off.

My turbo was fine.
e8908d40240190fc629ca3c2fdcb8267.jpg
 
Yeah I think the diesels run a garret turbo, I was thinking of the K03 and K04 which is a borg warner,, different set up. :sorry:
 
The actuator moves the link which moves the innards inside the turbo, they get seized, if your link was moving its fair to say its okay at the moment.
 
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Sorry couldn't help, the diaphram is a common failure, even milage as low as 40k I've seen them go, had to replace mine on my cr170 Leon FR at 48k
Supply and fit a actuator for £200 ? Really is a different world up north lol
 
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Late update, it was meant to be sorted last tuesday but due to the garage getting the wrong part as my car is actually a 2009 but on a 2008 plate also confirmed by Audi. Anyway, they said my turbo is fine (as they stripped it down) and they have replaced the actuator, I've tested it and no more limp mode also feels nice and punchy! I'm happy with the result as that limp mode was driving me mad.

Thanks for all the replies!
 
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