TQS track car project - extremely slow progress

Red led on mine. Or fis on dash. I have a stack oil pressure gauge with red back light but would love the stack white. But those are the professional 150 each ones. Ouch
 
Yeah bit expensive. Think I will get the glowshift. Unless my gf wants to splash out for prosport halo :)
 
I use the awe boost gauge. The light colour matches the interior quite well.

Under boost it does sometimes buzz though, apparently that can be fixed with a bike fuel filter or similar.
 
The white shadow pro 2 on ebay looks good. They do it only in bar though.
 
I'm selling my seats now. Does S4 have different front seat mounts?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Broken Byzan
Managed to order the wires and plug for n75 from audi. Only £2 each. Also getting new DV710N.
The hose that goes from manifold to DV was a bit of a guesswork to find as the guy didn't have a clue which one. I've ordered one that comes on a 5m roll. Hope that's the one!
 
Anyone needs an airbag or the whole wheel?


After 3 weeks of waiting I finally got the hub to fit my bargain sparco 330mm steering wheel.
 
Are you planning on using the horn and a resistor to put the airbag light out?

I got another harness to save cutting the original and am planning on using the wires to hopefully have a working horn and no airbag light.

Think the resistor for the steering is 4.7ohm and the seats need 2.2ohm.
 
Well, I will need to work out how to wire the horn. I believe there are two green wires going to the wheel which need to be connected to the horn? I might just get same size wires from halfords and extend them to connect to the wheel.

I will be removing seats and all other airbags and was thinking just to take the clocks out and cover up the airbag light with black tape. Just not sure how it will work with mot but have a whole year to worry about that.

Can't wait to rip out all the interior.
 
Just these green ones or the third one next to them as well?
 
I think the horn uses the purple (+) and green (-) wires.

My eyes are rubbish with colours so I am not sure what the others are.

68F7AAF1-4D64-4293-B022-5D509690896A.jpg
 
It might be but my thought was that it uses only one wire and when you press the horn, it closes the circuit. But i might be wrong. Probably elsawin needed to work it out. Need to finally install mine on laptop.

Today fitted new scuttle panels. Still water inside the car so decided to change them as they were damaged.

Also soldered new wires and plug to N75.

Now need to change the hose that goes from manifold to dv.
Just not bothered getting under the car when it is ******* outside non stop.

Is the 710N DV a straight swap? Does it need any adaptation?
 
Took the car for a drive after wiring up the N75 valve yesterday.
The good news is that it runs a lot better. Not that much stuttering as before.
Now it happens mainly on full throttle but not every time!
There is still high pitch boost leak sound though.
You can hear it here 12-15 sec.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lkh4UsZxcbQ

Will fit the new DV to manifold hose and the 710N as soon as I get jubilee clips.
Bad news is that when I floored it few times my oil light came on so I need to find a ramp to get the oil pump done
first thing.

BTW. 330mm steering wheel feels absolutely brilliant!
 
Guys, what's the best tool to undo the 2 bolts that hold sump to gearbox. There isnt much space so normal ratchet extension won't do. Is a flexi 1/2" extension any good for that? These bolts were seriously stuck when I checked last time. My 1/4" flexi died quickly on them.

I would love to try them with impact wrench but no chance to access with it. Want to do it Monday so need to get something good from machine mart before I start.
 
Long allen key perhaps?

cant remember but quite a few of those bolts in that area have both internal and external hex?

If its the ring of four bolts that connect the sump to the box, then you can lift the engine slightly, or drop the back of the subframe down to improve access to them.
 
In mine it's just a hex bolt. No allen inside. Will get a 1/2" flexi and see if it works. Otherwise will need to drop the subframe :(
 
I lift engine and use 3/8 on a wobble extension and 16mm socket. I have used a wobble Allen too.
 
Last edited:
Well my seats didnt sell on auction although i had 4 guys interested. On the positive side I bought a turbo charger. Genuibe k03 from a4 . It's been stripped down, cleaned, new bearings and new seals. Rebuilt by a qualified turbo tech according to the seller. That's for £89.99 posted! Hope it fits :)
 
well i bought one so will see, there were a lot of blacks dropping out of not sure what they are thou, everything else looks good.
 
Yeah. I think its a wrong thread :)
 
The same as I did? Refurbed k03?
 
yes i think he had 2 for sale, looks good not sure which parts where changed, the black comes off thou, so black hands...
 
Hmm sounds fishy. But for 90 quid hard to expect perfect turbo. Just hope it isn't some Chinese ****. Did you have it fitted already?
 
Hmm sounds fishy. But for 90 quid hard to expect perfect turbo. Just hope it isn't some Chinese ****. Did you have it fitted already?

no i am sending it back due the amount of black bits which i guess is from inside the oil bit but i am not taking a risk as i have bought others off ebay and they didn't have these bits. could cause issues once connected up.
 
Will have a look at mine and see if it's the same.
 
the paint comes off but i think the where the oil goes has carbonized residue which is what falling out, i don't want to take the risk clogging my lines with the **** stuck in there.

i have to say the seller is a right ****, there is no way i would fit it into my oil supply as most likely contaminate my oil and lines, so take care before you fit.
 
Last edited:
I will see if mine is the same. If it is I might be sending it back as well.
 
Did the door blades delete today.
Worked out quite well + saved me a bit of cash.

 
O ok thank you gonna spray my ones up when I get a bit of time and paint to match