Time to get exhausted!

So, before moving house I purchased the following:

Backbox:

backbox.jpg


Non-res centre pipe:

centre%20pipe.jpg


Pipewerx cat:

cat.jpg


..and pipewerx downpipe:

downpipe.jpg


Now that I have some space to work I'm planning on fitting it myself. Prior to starting the job I wondered if anyone had any recommendations on tools that would make it easier? I've seen people fabricate spanners of sorts to get one of the turbo -> downpipe nuts off, is there anything commercially available that'd work? Whilst I have some time and space I'd rather have what I need before starting....

On that note, as the exhaust has done a few thousand miles on a car already I plan on getting new assembly bits and have some other questions:

- Turbo to downpipe gasket and nuts: Is OEM best or is there a tried and tested alternative?
- Downpipe to cat gasket and nuts/bolts: I assume I'd need to source these from pipewerx, or is there a better aftermarket alternative?
- Exhaust hangers: Existing, New OE or aftermarket?

Any input/advice appreciated :beerchug:

Dave.
 

Westy

Registered User
Strange Dave, my first job after moving into my new house with double garage was to fit my Miltek exhaust ;)

I recommend the following:

- Get brand new Turbo to DP studs and locking exhaust bolts. Not sure if you follow my thread but I had a nightmare with bolts coming loose. The studs and locking nuts haven't budged. I'm not sure of the part numbers but they are for an A3 not S3 if you ask the parts guy in Audi/VW.

- Get an adjustable ratchet spanner, I cant remember the size as I'm braindead but that spanner was a lifesaver. One of these:

ratchet_combination_wrench.jpg


- You can access two of the bolts from the top, easier if you climb on top of the panel infront of the engine!
- Remove the drivers side wheel arch liner and you will have loads of room to access the bottom bolt.
- Remember to seperat your exhaust from the OEM DP/Cats before trying to unscrew the DP bolts or like me you will put loads of weight on the bolts as they come out and snap one off in the turbo. Not fun to drill out!

- The Miltek backbox is fairly easy but you'll need to get it on your chest under the car and press it up to screw in the brackets.
- Use OE gasket for everything and the existing hangers and rubbers will be fine.
- You might have an issue joining the DP to the miltek, I used an old OEM exhaust sleeve but I'm not sure if the pipeworx DP is a better fit.
 

Westy

Registered User
[Dave B];1651104 said:
Westy, you sir are a legend! :thumbsup: I'll have a nosey at your thread as well for inspiration.

I didn't cover the cat back bit so much but there's loads of info regarding the sodding DP. You might need to head back a few pages though.

Let me know if you have any questions. I'll try my best to answer them.
 

s3gazz

Registered User
the locking nuts from audi too westy iv got the studds already for mine and are they studs that go into the mani from the top or sumate else on mine iv got a star shaped screw
 

superkarl

MAN OF STEEL
from my thread:

some tips for anyone and what i did:
  • lower subframe on its bolts, lowers about 1.5 inch but every little helps
  • split the downpipe at the flexi pipe, wiggled till it came apart, and prised it apart with a bar, this leaves just the top turbo bit of the downpipe, meaning much better acces to the bolts.
  • next, stubby spanners, ratchet spanners are a plus but ours were too fat.
  • facing in the cars direction, bottom, and rear most nuts off from the bottom and through the drivers wheel arch. top nut off from the top of the car
  • now, use all your magic to wiggle the top part of the downpipe out through the bar of the bay from underneath.
  • then, take your flange from the OEM downpipe, place it on the flange for the new one (in my case xspower) my new one was slightly fatter, and the oem one was difficult enough to get out so, i grinded the flange of the new one to about 0.5-1mm smaller than the OEM dp flange.
  • next, undo prop at the front of the car (3 bolts, then under a heatshield there is a centre join in the prob, undo its mount so you can slide the prop off (its on a spline), this gives you more room to fit the downpipe in.
  • use ALLLLLL your magic and determination to get that new downpipe in, i put mine in turned the wrong way, then once in the gap, turned it round.
  • now fit your dp with nuts in which ever order you like, the same ways you removed the OEM.
  • re-attatch prop, charge pipe, exhaust, any other bits and bobs, and see how it sits.
  • i had to knock my heatshield slightly to stop it contacting.
  • and FINALLY, prepare to jizz your pants as you start your engine and here the mighty growl of the exhaust!
if you need any more info, or even help, let me know.
 

s33nyboy12

Registered User
Can I just add my friend (guzzy) got his step dad to do his, ronnie the legend did it all in all removal and refit in 3 hours! I think that is good, given he never done one prior.
 
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