Throttle Body Clean.

garratt83 said:
Its also called IPA

Are you anywhere near here

http://www.maplin.co.uk/StoreLocator.aspx?cmd=viewstore&storeid=95&doy=

they sell this

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=28994&criteria=ipa&doy=30m5

and then you will be this

http://www.greaterthings.com/Humor/Images/monkey_smile.jpg
Click to expand...

Cheers, off to get some today, but more importantly I want to now know why there is pictures of my wife on the internet! ;)

(I was gonna make some reference to your girlfriend/wife/mum but I'm new here so I've restrained myself. Nice link though might save that picture for future use. :icon_thumright: )
 
I can't believe that you lt didn't know what Isopropyl Alcohol was ***!

I always get mine from CPC, Maplins seem to be dearer.
Failing that use meths to clean off the gunk, you can soak parts in meths but if you try and soak in IPA it will evaporate really fast, making it a bit difficult.

Make sure you don't get your IPA's confused.
ipa_ad.jpg
 
the stuff from halfords marked... electrical contact cleaner (in a green can) is the same stuff.

Or at least it smells like the same stuff and hasnt killed my MAF yet. We use alot of isopropyl alcohol at work (in hospital) as a disinfectant, it has a distinctive smell.
 
I just did mine today! After taking ages trying to figure out how to get that sodding plug that connects to the throttle body of without breaking it :think: .
Mines done 70k so it was a hell of a lot more responsive afterwards especially from 2-5,000 revs noticeable difference. It doesn't idle erratically anymore either and has a smoother pickup. There was loads of gunk around there though and a big ring of gunk around where the flappy thing rests.

Thanks a lot for this :s3addict:.
 
did mine at weekend and the ECU has set all its parameters and the cars idles better and is more responsive down in the rev range

worth doing!
 
I did mine and the MAF and I went from 27mpg average to 32mpg average.

Thats enough of a reason in itself to do it...
 
At the risk of sounding a complete idiot what gasket do I ask for? Throttle body gasket??!!

Whilst I whip off the throttle body may as well replace the gasket as I wouldnt think it cost much
 
As long as you are careful when cleaning it through the gasket should be fine to keep on. Just be careful to keep all cleaning fluid/water inside the throttle body and watch for the electrical connector on one end. I did'nt have a 5 stsr security torx for the maf so I just dismantled part of the intake box and cleaned it through that with loads of isopropyl...worked a treat.
 
nickelvery said:
:jester: I'm going to clean my throttle body tonight but I read from a different forum that you have to reset the throttle with VAG-COM after cleaning it?

Is this true or will a ECU reset do the same?
Click to expand...

You can do it by disconnecting your battery before and then carry out,
BT clean once every thing is complete connect battery turn to 1st setting on ignition and you should hear an audible whirring sound which should last for approx 20 seconds it will then go off, that's the BT aligning itself then start engine up, i did it today went a treat, cleaned it with carb cleaner and cotton wool buds, + lint free cloth here is a link however just use battery disconnect in place of vag com, hope this helps m8 good luck.

http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/thread/222737.aspx
 
cjhill said:
the stuff from halfords marked... electrical contact cleaner (in a green can) is the same stuff.

Or at least it smells like the same stuff and hasnt killed my MAF yet. We use alot of isopropyl alcohol at work (in hospital) as a disinfectant, it has a distinctive smell.
Click to expand...

it is the same stuff lol thats what i used.:hubbahubba:
 
Stewart said:
I believe the torque setting is 8Nm.
Click to expand...

Is it essential to get the torque setting correct when tightning the bolts or can you just tighten as much as it allows.

What do you do if you dont have a torque wrench?
 
My car had done 92k when i took mine off to clean and it was spotless.
 
Effect said:
My car had done 92k when i took mine off to clean and it was spotless.
Click to expand...

probably been done before you bought it

im gonna do mine this weekend, done it on a few other cars before but not my own baby so ill have to be careful this time lol

:blackrs4:
 
I did have a bit of idle play & i have done all mentioned in the above dont think its as bad as it was well worth doing. Does the 1.8T engine have an idle control valve this usually plays a part in unconsistant idleing any info would be good.

Matt
 
i have just cleaned the throttle body as it was very dirty. i did the whole disconnect the battery thing for over 40 mins and then put it all back together. I reconnected the battery and did the first click on the ignition and left it alone for a minute and then started the engine. The engine started fine and then it started to alter the revs up n down above n below it leveled out at 1000rpm. I have now taken the car for a 10min drive and the idle still sits at 1000rpm is this right cos it used to idle at about 850rpm.
 
vrbob said:
i have just cleaned the throttle body as it was very dirty. i did the whole disconnect the battery thing for over 40 mins and then put it all back together. I reconnected the battery and did the first click on the ignition and left it alone for a minute and then started the engine. The engine started fine and then it started to alter the revs up n down above n below it leveled out at 1000rpm. I have now taken the car for a 10min drive and the idle still sits at 1000rpm is this right cos it used to idle at about 850rpm.
Click to expand...

I have done this on mine now and from what I have learnt, you should only need to leave the battery disconnected for a bout 10 -15mins. Did you make sure the flap in the throtle body returned to the orignal place? Also where you carefull not to **** around with the IAT sensor in just past the flap? Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs.
 
Have done the battery thing and left it off for a good 30 mins. The throttle body flap didnt move at all so it stayed in its original postition througout cleaning. I did not touch the sensor i just cleaned the hole where the small rubber pipe connects.

The car is less eratic in idle now but its still stays just under 1000rpm when warmed up. it does still fluctuate a little. i will see how it goes on the way to work 2moro.

Thanks for the advice and no i welcome any useful comments thats what i'm here for!!
 
Just driven to work and its not good, First off the from cold the car would not accelerate smoothly it sort of bunny hopped. After it warmed up a little it did improve but the idle is still staying at 1000rpm and fluctuating a little. The temp gage got to 90 as per usual but then it dropped a little as i was getting close to work. it has not done this before. I am wondering if it might have something to do with the MAF sensor??
 
Does sound like a MAF error. Try disconnecting and they driving it home, if it stops doing it there is your answer.

BTW don't do it for to long as I've heard that it get the car all upset.
 
Will go give the MAF a quick clean later to see if that helps as i could not do it yesterday as i did not have a torque bit to undo it. Will also try unplugging it later on my way home to see if that solves it. Have already found that GSF have a replacement just incase for £69.50+VAT.

Cheers for the advice
 
Quick update, just went out and removed the MAF and gave it a quick clean not sure if it has fixed the prob or not but it was idling at about 900rpm but still not steady. I tried removing the MAF connector to see if this made it any better but the rpm's dropped dramatically like the car was about to stall and then kept rising n falling. I reconnected the MAF and it went back to the 900rpm again but its still not the same steady idle as i had before. Still got the drive home to see if the clean has helped though, any other ideas people??
 
You could try resetting it again. Disconnect the battery and see if it fixes it. Mine ide's at 950 which before it was at 1000. Also response is better.
 
Will drive it home and then try the whole reset thingy again. Might also try doing the reset of the throttle too as thats easy enough turn on the ignition lights press pedal down for 5 secs and then let it go and start the engine.
Very much hope i can fix this as it was all ok till i cleaned the throttle body, Damn it i was only trying to be nice to my S3!!!
 
Got home and have tried resetting the ECU again by disconnecting the battery and still got the same prob, if anything its worse now cos the car is idling above 1000rpm. Gonna take it to the garage 2moro morning and see if they can discover whats wrong.
 
Been to Abtech this morning and they have stuck it on VagCom and it has come back saying that the MAF is reading as low and so is the temp sensor so i am gonna replace them and fingers crossed get this issue solved.

I think my S3 hates me :blownose:
 
vrbob said:
Been to Abtech this morning and they have stuck it on VagCom and it has come back saying that the MAF is reading as low and so is the temp sensor so i am gonna replace them and fingers crossed get this issue solved.

I think my S3 hates me :blownose:
Click to expand...

IMO that's why it's so good to have the old VAGcom! :icon_thumright:
 
Very much concidering getting vagcom now!! are the cheap ebay cables any good?? if not where is best to get one from and how much do they cost?? i know you can get the software free from Ross tech.
 
Sweet!

Looks good did you get the software from Ross tech?? if so is that where you get it activated for £50??
 
next stupid question :

is it easy to use vagcom?? and is there any chance of me doing anything bad to the car with it?? I do have a tendancy to make things worse look (eg tried to clean throttle body and now have faulty MAF and Temp sensor!)

Also is the cable you posted the link to the one you use with the free 409.1 version of the software?? did you pay £50 to unlock features in that version of the software or have you got the 704 software if so does that work with the same cable??
 
vrbob said:
next stupid question :

is it easy to use vagcom?? and is there any chance of me doing anything bad to the car with it?? I do have a tendancy to make things worse look (eg tried to clean throttle body and now have faulty MAF and Temp sensor!)

Also is the cable you posted the link to the one you use with the free 409.1 version of the software?? did you pay £50 to unlock features in that version of the software or have you got the 704 software if so does that work with the same cable??
Click to expand...

I have 409.1 which unlocks for £50.

Use this link it tells you everything you need to know.

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/tour/main_screen.html
 
audi upgrades
Just cleaned my TB yesterday - fairly simple job even for a mechanical novice like me

mine was absolutely filthy inside, a ring of black deposit around the flap about 1cm wide - cleaned up ok with the isopropanol (spelling) though and it seems to be running a lot smoother now.
 
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