Biggied
They called him mellow yellow.
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2006
- Messages
- 198
- Reaction score
- 3
- Points
- 18
- Location
- Scotland
- Website
- www.audi.co.uk
I've had my 2001 8L S3 210 with 76k for about 4/5 months now & bought it with full intent on tuning. I intended on a stage 1 generic remap as soon as I got it as it was tailored for stock engines. I then decided on a few things first as precautionary measures, this should make a reasonable guide (that can be added to) for what to consider before tuning.
My first concern was Oil circulation, this should be a big priority for any vag 1.8T that has big miles or neglected oil change intervals. My mileage & history are pretty good but to be on the safe side I Fully flushed the engine, replaced the oil pump,stainer,oil & filter, then did another oil change 1k miles later.(I'm using Quantum platinum 5W 40)
I've seen far too many knackered 1.8t engines & turbos with blocked strainers & failed pumps so feel this is worth while. I also cleaned out both the oil inlet & outlet pipes for the turbo as when the engine is switched off the oil stops circulating & can boil/emulsify in the pipes causing blockages & starving the turbo of lubrication. If youre going to be pushing the stock turbo harder it may be worth while getting
a turbo timer.
Spark plugs, due for replacment every 40k but I'll be doing mine early as I wouldn't think about tuning it with an old set. For k03/k04 turbo set up use stock plugs for big turbos go a bit colder. Its worth having a look at the coil packs, if you have access to an oscilloscope
you can easy spot a week one.
Timing belt & water pump, I won't go into this subject as its been cover to many times & most 1.8T owners should know about the failure rates on these. Bottom line is replace the belt & tensioner every 5 years or 60k, fit a metal pump & always inspect the tension dampers for leaks & rollers for wear and replace where needed. Mines all just been done so happy days.(belt replacement interval is my own recommendation)
Air Flow Meter (MAF), Its a good Idea to have your maf readings checked via Vag Com or similar as we all know these can be prone to failure/incorrect readings which the management/driver don't always pick up on.
Fuel Filter, Theres no replacement interval for the 1.8T fuel filter but as mines 8 years & 76k old I'll be fitting a new one.
N75 boost pressure solenoid & N249 recirculation valve solenoid, With age & time these electrically operated solenoid valves can become week/slow to react. the engine management doesnt usually detect this unless they fail totally. some people say "if it ain't broke don't fix it" but if your the over precautious type you may want to just replace them. I'll be replacing the N249 & trying a few different N75s after its remapped.
Turbo intake pipe (TIP) & Filter, Its often been found that after a remap when the turbo starts sucking air that bit harder the rubber intake pipe between the turbo & maf can collapse on itself. This is often rectified with an upgraded silicone TIP as the stock one is thought to be week, this appears to be true but any restriction @ the air filter on the now higher air flow would give the same symptom of a collapsing intake. Theres mixed opinions about how restrictive the stock Filter box & paper element are also on weather or not hot or cold intake air makes much odds. My plans are for a custom air box made from insulated 6-8" pipe work much like a large BMC CDA with an open end, an ITG Maxogen cone filter rated to 300hp & a good 3" cold air feed. This should give minimum restriction, plenty of cold air with lots of intake/recurc noise. I also intend to make up a custom Hard TIP made from insulated 2.5-3" aluminium pipe going straight to the turbo eliminating the flat 90 degree bent piece thats there.(I think it looks restrictive) I'm positive this will flow better than stock & be more than enough for any K03/K04 turbo set up.
Intercooler, For big turbo setups we all know a larger more exposed FMC is a good idea but if your only running a K03/K04 giving your stock intercooler/intercoolers a good clean out is worth while, you'd be amazed how much crap gets caught in them over the years hindering there ability to allow air to flow cleanly through them.
Another thing Im going to look at is directing some of the front air flow toward the pipe that joins the two intercoolers, this may aid charge air cooling slightly. I also have my front fogs removed from in front of the intercoolers & am going to insulate the pipe going from the last cooler to the throttle body to try & prevent it picking up heat from the engine bay.
Turbo Diverter/Recirculation valve, Again we all know about the failure rates of the stock plastic bosch diaphragm valves, although the latest superseded part isnt near as bad its a good idea to upgrade for higher boost applications. There are plenty out there @ various prices & there are also plenty of opinions on weather or not its worth running them on the cold or hot side. Ill be running a Forge valve on the cold side as if theres air entering the intake Id rather cold than hot, less heat should give the valve an easier life & just simply because the RS4 & RS6 Bi Turbo engines run twin valves on the cold side, good enough for them good enough for me.
Feel free to add to or correct any of this
Cheers Ewan
My first concern was Oil circulation, this should be a big priority for any vag 1.8T that has big miles or neglected oil change intervals. My mileage & history are pretty good but to be on the safe side I Fully flushed the engine, replaced the oil pump,stainer,oil & filter, then did another oil change 1k miles later.(I'm using Quantum platinum 5W 40)
I've seen far too many knackered 1.8t engines & turbos with blocked strainers & failed pumps so feel this is worth while. I also cleaned out both the oil inlet & outlet pipes for the turbo as when the engine is switched off the oil stops circulating & can boil/emulsify in the pipes causing blockages & starving the turbo of lubrication. If youre going to be pushing the stock turbo harder it may be worth while getting
a turbo timer.
Spark plugs, due for replacment every 40k but I'll be doing mine early as I wouldn't think about tuning it with an old set. For k03/k04 turbo set up use stock plugs for big turbos go a bit colder. Its worth having a look at the coil packs, if you have access to an oscilloscope
you can easy spot a week one.
Timing belt & water pump, I won't go into this subject as its been cover to many times & most 1.8T owners should know about the failure rates on these. Bottom line is replace the belt & tensioner every 5 years or 60k, fit a metal pump & always inspect the tension dampers for leaks & rollers for wear and replace where needed. Mines all just been done so happy days.(belt replacement interval is my own recommendation)
Air Flow Meter (MAF), Its a good Idea to have your maf readings checked via Vag Com or similar as we all know these can be prone to failure/incorrect readings which the management/driver don't always pick up on.
Fuel Filter, Theres no replacement interval for the 1.8T fuel filter but as mines 8 years & 76k old I'll be fitting a new one.
N75 boost pressure solenoid & N249 recirculation valve solenoid, With age & time these electrically operated solenoid valves can become week/slow to react. the engine management doesnt usually detect this unless they fail totally. some people say "if it ain't broke don't fix it" but if your the over precautious type you may want to just replace them. I'll be replacing the N249 & trying a few different N75s after its remapped.
Turbo intake pipe (TIP) & Filter, Its often been found that after a remap when the turbo starts sucking air that bit harder the rubber intake pipe between the turbo & maf can collapse on itself. This is often rectified with an upgraded silicone TIP as the stock one is thought to be week, this appears to be true but any restriction @ the air filter on the now higher air flow would give the same symptom of a collapsing intake. Theres mixed opinions about how restrictive the stock Filter box & paper element are also on weather or not hot or cold intake air makes much odds. My plans are for a custom air box made from insulated 6-8" pipe work much like a large BMC CDA with an open end, an ITG Maxogen cone filter rated to 300hp & a good 3" cold air feed. This should give minimum restriction, plenty of cold air with lots of intake/recurc noise. I also intend to make up a custom Hard TIP made from insulated 2.5-3" aluminium pipe going straight to the turbo eliminating the flat 90 degree bent piece thats there.(I think it looks restrictive) I'm positive this will flow better than stock & be more than enough for any K03/K04 turbo set up.
Intercooler, For big turbo setups we all know a larger more exposed FMC is a good idea but if your only running a K03/K04 giving your stock intercooler/intercoolers a good clean out is worth while, you'd be amazed how much crap gets caught in them over the years hindering there ability to allow air to flow cleanly through them.
Another thing Im going to look at is directing some of the front air flow toward the pipe that joins the two intercoolers, this may aid charge air cooling slightly. I also have my front fogs removed from in front of the intercoolers & am going to insulate the pipe going from the last cooler to the throttle body to try & prevent it picking up heat from the engine bay.
Turbo Diverter/Recirculation valve, Again we all know about the failure rates of the stock plastic bosch diaphragm valves, although the latest superseded part isnt near as bad its a good idea to upgrade for higher boost applications. There are plenty out there @ various prices & there are also plenty of opinions on weather or not its worth running them on the cold or hot side. Ill be running a Forge valve on the cold side as if theres air entering the intake Id rather cold than hot, less heat should give the valve an easier life & just simply because the RS4 & RS6 Bi Turbo engines run twin valves on the cold side, good enough for them good enough for me.
Feel free to add to or correct any of this
Cheers Ewan
