The remote doesn't work

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The batteries in both my car's keys have gone. Unfortunately I haven't changed them as soon as I've noticed they are about to go and now, even with new batteries, the remotes on both of them are not working.
The LED on the keys are lighting red.
I've tried all the procedures to recode them I found without result.
I've tried
- this one: how to program a vw, seat, audi coded key, when new battery fitted, or recoding new key. - YouTube
- this one: http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-...programme-your-audi-key-fob-instructions.html
- this one: How To Program Reprogram Your Audi Remote Key Fob - A4 | eBay
- and both these ones: Ross-Tech: VAG-COM: Remote Control Matching Info
The Ross Tech mentions at some point that in Central Convenience - Measuring Blocks - group 003 or 007 I should find a field that will show how many remotes are stored. There is nothing like this in any group.

How do I match the remotes again?
Does the red LED flashing on the keys when I press a button means something? Does it also light in green in some cases?
 
With vcds, delete all stored remotes 1st, then add new ones.
 
How do I do this? I've tried to delete them all using the procedure from Ross Tech. Still no result.
 
I just went into appropriate channels & removed all keys, then added both, 1 after another by depressing fobs buttons, which is signified by the indicators flashing.
 
At one point, when I try to code them, after pressing any button on the key, the indicators are flashing twice. This is the only result I get. This tells me that the car "sees" the remote but doesn't save it.
 
I'm sure you can lock unlock with the key and then press the fob buttons to resync them
 
If it flashed, then it sees the keys, I would contact RT & ask for some further advice if its not working properly, making sure the keys were deleted before adding again.
 
What is the battery type on 2004 remote fob?

T2eC16NzUE9s389ykWBQonQ4KjUg60 35
 
If it flashed, then it sees the keys, I would contact RT & ask for some further advice if its not working properly, making sure the keys were deleted before adding again.

Unfortunately I don't think this is an option for me as I don't have a genuine cable. Too expensive for me since I don't use it too much and I don't make any money with it.
If there was a cheaper option, like something that links to my car and can't be used on another one (like the Bluefin), I would buy. I'm not a fan of replicas, clones, imitations etc. and this can be seen in my car. Almost all the mods are retrofits to better OEM or better equipment.
 
Unfortunately I don't think this is an option for me as I don't have a genuine cable. Too expensive for me since I don't use it too much and I don't make any money with it.
If there was a cheaper option, like something that links to my car and can't be used on another one (like the Bluefin), I would buy. I'm not a fan of replicas, clones, imitations etc. and this can be seen in my car. Almost all the mods are retrofits to better OEM or better equipment.

With respect, you've spent an absolute fortune on your car, so don't tell me its expensive to buy a genuine interface, sorry but I disagree & thus as its fake, I'm sorry but I cant help you any further.
 
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i went a 2006 A3 while ago where both remotes had stopped working with the remote locking. Erased all the keys with VCDS then programmed them both again. The indicators flashed with each remote but for some reason neither of them worked after programming. Tried it several times, indicators flashed each time but remotes wouldn't operate the remote locking.

In the end i got a remote out of my van with the correct part number & tried that. Went through programming process & the remote worked perfectly. Got a 2nd remote from the van &n that also worked! Was very bizarre. I also did a 2007 Octavia key on Saturday. His original remote had stopped working. I tested it & it was sending correct mhz signal but wouldn't program to the car. Tried new remote, worked straight away
 
Why woud this happen? Just because the battery was not replaced in the propper time, the remote can't be programmed again?
 
as long as the remote isn't faulty it can be programmed repeatedly even if it takes you 6 months to change the battery! I've done keys for 3-4 cars now where the remote has stopped working with the car even though it's still sending an RF signal but even after clearing all the remotes from the car the original remote still wouldn't program back to the car with VCDS. The 1st time it happened was with the A3 i mentioned above & was a forum members. I spent ages trying to program his original remotes with no joy. So i tried a remote from my stock & it worked straight away. I showed the lad every step of trying to program his remotes & my remote to show him they weren't working

I have no idea why it happens, i just know that it sometimes does & they only way i've been able to sort it is to do a new remote
 
I finally got to te bottom of a similar issue last night. When adapting each remote, this particular remote had to have the unlock or lock button pushed for 5-6 seconds before vcds 'recognised it' functions as it should now.

Also an S4 that needed to be locked and unlocked after each remote was programmed individually! All cars are different. This is why its worth buying genuine tools, its one less thing to worry about going wrong.
 
I'll see someone who has a original VCDS cable next week and try again.
If still won't work, what can I do? Can I buy only the remote? Is it different than the immo chip that allows the engine to start?
 
if it doesn't work you can buy a 2nd remote from Ebay then just fit the remote circuit board into your remote case. The immob chip will still be inside your original case as it's not fitted to the circuit board. Then just program the remote.

Just make sure you buy the correct part number for your car as there's a few different Audi remotes that look identical but aren't compatible

8p0837220d is correct remote for 2006 A3

GENUINE AUDI ,A3,A4,A6,A8,Q7 ETC..3 BUTTON REMOTE ALARM KEY FOB UNCUT BLADE | eBay
 
Those look like my keys. If I won't fix this with my keys, I'll give it a try with a key from ebay.
 
Yes! Yesss !! Yeeeeeesssssss!!!!
I've managed to recode one of the remotes.
This is what I've done:
- key that needs to be coded in the ignition
- ignition ON
- Central convenience - Coding - Long coding helper - Byte 8 - uncheck the option Manual remote control learning/unlearning active than close, Do it!
- Central convenience - Adaptation - Measuring Blocks - channel 00 - read - save (this is supposed to remove all the remotes that are programmed at that time)
- Central convenience - Adaptation - Measuring Blocks - channel 01 - Enter 2 in the New Value field than Test and the next field, Stored value should show 2 - than Save.
- press and hold one of the buttons (I've pressed Lock) and hold it until you count to 10 (you should see the signal lights flashing once or twice)
- THAN (AND THIS IS WHAT MADE THE DIFFERENCE AS I DID THE PROCEDURE THREE TIMES TO MAKE SURE AND ONCE DID NOT WORKED BECAUSE i DID NOT DO THIS STEP) remove the key from ignition and press a button ON THE SECOND REMOTE. You should see again a confirmation blink
Now try the remote on the key that was in the ignition, it should work now. In my case, the second remote still doesn't work but it is a must to have it with you.
I've tried the procedure without pushing the button on the second key and it did not worked.

Give it a try an see if my procedure works with your remotes.
 
when you type in "2" as stored value that's doesn't program 2 remotes. That just programs whichever remote you then press a button on into remote position 2. There's 4 positions in total & each remote needs it's own position.

So go back in with VCDS & type in "1" then once you've clicked save you press & hold a button on your unprogrammed remote
 
The battery was actually 2032.
Not sure why, after putting new one in the remote open/lock is not working.
Key starts the car ok still.

it will still start the car ok because the battery has nothing at all to do with the transponder(immob chip) in the key. It's totally separate. In your sig it says you're a VCDS user so just reprogram your remote ;)
 
it will still start the car ok because the battery has nothing at all to do with the transponder(immob chip) in the key. It's totally separate. In your sig it says you're a VCDS user so just reprogram your remote ;)

Didn't have a chance to do it yet but will try as soon as I can.
 
when you type in "2" as stored value that's doesn't program 2 remotes. That just programs whichever remote you then press a button on into remote position 2. There's 4 positions in total & each remote needs it's own position.

So go back in with VCDS & type in "1" then once you've clicked save you press & hold a button on your unprogrammed remote

Yes but as long as the stored value was 1, I couldn't save any remote. Only when I've set it on 2 I was able to program one of them.
 
That could be because it still sees remotes coded to the car, so you need to delete all remotes 1st, then star afresh, as for removing key from ignition, then pressing button on 2nd, never had to do this, always with 1 key in ignition & pressed button on both, not at same time & indicators flashed.
 
You can erase all remotes, then go into relevant areas & see if the erase took effect by showing zero remotes enabled, if it still shows remotes then of course no point trying position 3, the ideal situation is to remove all & start again or if there are other remotes in the wild, they could be used to open the car, which has been known to happen unscrupulously & cars go missing of drives.
 
As you can see, before coding what I did was to remove all the remotes that were stored.
I'll try again these days to code the second remote.