Audi-sports own special child.
One broken off? Been bodged?g
ive found this on mk4s before, some aftermarket MC suppliers dont have the bleed nipples in them
The only other way is to have someone slacken the brake pipes coming out of the mc, then press and hold the brake pedal on the floor, tighten the pipes then release the pedal, do that a few times and that should get the air out
i understood it was simply wear on the cylinder/piston forming a ridge at the end of its normal area of travel.
I've never personally had a problem with full stroking the master cylinder, but i have heard of various people over the years on all makes of car killing the MC with that method of bleeding.
only happens whent the MC runs dry. and its not just our cars.
i do it the old way, so do lots of others. no problems if its done right
I'm running a near identical setup using 996 front calipers.
I finally found and bought a pair of Porsche calipers that I like.
I've been researching the Alfa Romeo, Brera 330mm disc and noticed that the centering diameter on the Alfa disc is bigger than the Audi S3 disc center by 5 mm. The Alfa center hole is 70mm and the S3 is 65mm. This seems to me like it would be a problem. Doesn't the disc ride or is kept in place by the hub center. If there is space around the hub center won't this allow some play and eventually cause the disc to fail?
Maybe I'm just being paranoid. Frenchman, have you had any problem with this? Or anyone else who has used these disc for the bigger upgrade?
Here's links to the dimensions from the Brembo website.
Brembo | Aftermarket Catalogue
Brembo | Aftermarket Catalogue
I finished installing my the Porsche brakes with Alfa 330mm disc today and I think the 70mm center hole on the 65mm hub is a problem. After I drove them around for a few minutes I heard something rubbing. I took a good look and it looks like the disc shifted and is rubbing on the calliper.
I was wondering if anyone else with this setup had this problem?
Custom spigot/centering rings will sort this out.
Can someone point me in the right direction for a guide to bedding in new brakes please.
As i am going to be fitting an upgrade to my car in the near future which has the ferodo DS2500 pads fitted and i remember reading that these need bedding in in a specific way to make them work best. The pads and discs are both new so does this also have to be taken into account with the bedding in process?
Someone also had a guide (maybe from Bill at B5?) on the whole process so if there is also a link to that someone can post up that would be very useful.
Do full on as hard as you can stops from 70/80mph to walking pace.
You should be looking to repeat that process until the pads stink and are smoking. Which on road pads is usually 4/5 cycles and on race pads more like 10/15 cycles.
Then drive the car for as long as possible without braking to allow them to fully cool.
If you were able to view the discs during this process you would see pad material transfer to the discs and the color change from bright silver with a criss cross pattern from machining to a light grey surface with concentric scoring rings on the discs.
The aim of "bedding in" brakes is to transfer a layer of adherent pad material to the discs which allows them to perform at their best in an even and controlled way. You need to heat the pads to the point of them transferring material onto the discs. There is a chemical and a physical element to brake discs and pads, they need to work in both ways to offer full performance.
If you just gently touch the brakes and take it easy the pads will remain in an abrasive state and will just score the discs, resulting in a **** brake for the life of the discs and pads.
I'm pretty sure Tuffty is running those calipers (TVR ones)
I had some custom centering rings made out of nylon and they work great to center the disc but that wasn't what was rubbing. I took everything apart and inspected really well. The disc is clearing the caliper by a couple of millimetres around the outside.
I tried to bend and shape the original dust/heat shield so that it could still be used but on full lock it was getting smashed between the disc and the lower control arm. So I just removed the dust/heat shield and everything works perfectly!!