Switching from standard temp controls to electric climate control?

[CanadaA3wales]

Hey
I know I ask a lot of questions but doing some upgrades and just checking to see what I can do and what I cant.

I have seen this on Ebay and it has a digital readout display where mine is just a standard 3 knob design.

Can you just switch them over?

Also can you intall climate control relativly cheap to match this head unit?

If its very costly, I am wondering if I can just take advantage of the electric readout?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2013-Aud...577806&hash=item2d18327565:g:x4kAAOSwGLpfay0W

 

[AlS3BE]

If it’s anything like my old golf it’s megabucks.
Wiring to flaps/motors/sensors etc I would assume will need replaced/reworked.
Just curious what a/c controls do you have? Every a3/s3 of varying specs from cheap to full on every option I’ve been in has the digital climate panel.

 

[CanadaA3wales]

If its that bit of a job I wont bother
I am wondering if I can swap mine for the electric one which doesnt have climate control?

See image, its very basic and would like a digital readout if they do it without heated seat and climate control option, maybe its a straight swap??

 

[CanadaA3wales]

This doesnt have heated seats or anything, not sure if its a climate control unit, but wondering if I can swap it over?

But question is, how will it measure the temprature for the readout?

 

[B5NUT]

No it's not a straight swap, there are differences in sensors, main housing, wiring etc etc. It would a lot of work to swap over.

 

[CanadaA3wales]

Yeah I have been looking, its damn near impossible
I am wondering if they have the digital heater panel for a standard one, They all seem to be climate controlled though.

 

[AlS3BE]

The digital panel is dual zones so in essence double the wiring/sensors etc then coding the electronics. It probably can be done but won’t be cheap and half the interior or dash will have to come out.

 

[B5NUT]

No digital display for the standard air con setup.

 

[CanadaA3wales]

No digital display for the standard air con setup.

Yeah thats what I was wondering
Ah well, worth a look eh

 

[Rcord]

In order to have a fully auto dual-zone climate control retrofit, you would have to replace the whole air conditioning box. Probably too much work and money involved. Instead, in my car I used the intermediate solution proposed by this guy from Italy:
Part 1: Theory

Part 2: Mounting

Besides replacing the control panel, you have to install 5 additional sensors and make some changes in the wiring. It works very well as a single-zone air conditioning system.

 

[CanadaA3wales]

Thanks for that, but cannot understand italian so have no idea how hard it is.
Do you think its a worthwhile upgrade?

 

[Rcord]

Thanks for that, but cannot understand italian so have no idea how hard it is.
Do you think its a worthwhile upgrade?

I don't speak Italian either, but the video offers a link to a folder with electrical diagrams and a text with the parts needed and changes to be done on the wiring, and Sebastiano, the creator of the video, was helpful when I contacted him (yes, he speaks English).
I think it's surely a worthwile upgrade in the overall look of the interior of the car. Not so sure about functionality, as I've heard so many people saying that automatic digital air conditioning has to be frequently adjusted too, as the manual air conditioning owners do. But I feel that now I don't have to adjust it as much as I did when I had the manual unit.
There are some limitations though, besides the obvious lack of a dual zone with individual temperature controls. There is no defroster motor and the recirculation is only open/closed (not the variable opening present in the OEM digital unit) but I don't complain about the lack of these features because I didn't have them previously anyway.
Installation doesn't require removing the whole dashboard, but I did have to remove the glove box in order to pass the wiring to the sunlight sensor which is mounted in the speaker box close to the windshield. The car in the video is a LHD and so is mine, so I'm not sure if removing the glove box will be also necessary in a RHD car.

 

[MarAnt]

How about one of these from Ali Express for about a fiver if all you you want is a temperature display. Cheap and cheerful but does the job and is fairly accurate plus you get the added benefit of a voltmeter!

 

[MarcoV]

I purchased a unit and installed it. Blower works, seat heating works, auto option and manual works. But heating won’t work.
I like to get the product numbers of everything you have to add. Can anyone help or better a link to a site who sells these parts?

 

[1Rockape]

I don't speak Italian either, but the video offers a link to a folder with electrical diagrams and a text with the parts needed and changes to be done on the wiring, and Sebastiano, the creator of the video, was helpful when I contacted him (yes, he speaks English).
I think it's surely a worthwile upgrade in the overall look of the interior of the car. Not so sure about functionality, as I've heard so many people saying that automatic digital air conditioning has to be frequently adjusted too, as the manual air conditioning owners do. But I feel that now I don't have to adjust it as much as I did when I had the manual unit.
There are some limitations though, besides the obvious lack of a dual zone with individual temperature controls. There is no defroster motor and the recirculation is only open/closed (not the variable opening present in the OEM digital unit) but I don't complain about the lack of these features because I didn't have them previously anyway.
Installation doesn't require removing the whole dashboard, but I did have to remove the glove box in order to pass the wiring to the sunlight sensor which is mounted in the speaker box close to the windshield. The car in the video is a LHD and so is mine, so I'm not sure if removing the glove box will be also necessary in a RHD car.

Is there any coding or adaptions changes to be made ?

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

 

[Rcord]

Is there any coding or adaptions changes to be made ?

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

If you buy a used air conditioning control unit it will probably work without any need of coding, maybe only a few minor changes if the unit was originally installed in a cabrio or a RHD/LHD setting different from your car.

But I think there's something you should consider before starting such retrofit. After finishing the retrofit in my car I discovered an additional issue that may be the most relevant: fresh air/recirculation works differently in the automatic and manual air conditioning boxes. The recirculation flap motor has a potentiometer to control its position in the automatic version, while there is no potentiometer in the manual version. The auto control unit signals an error when it detects that the potentiometer is not present and it seems to stop sending signals to the motor, or sends the signals intermittently.

I tried to solve this by replacing my original motor with another with the potentiometer, but doing that alone didn't solve the problem. Actually, I discovered that the whole reciculation flap assembly is different in the two versions. While in the manual version the motor moves only about 1/4 of a turn, moving from full recirculation at ont end to full fresh air at the other, in the auto version it rotates about 3/4 of a turn, beginning with full recirculation, passing slowly through partial recirculation/fresh air up to full fresh air, then it quickly returns to full recirculation. While the manual recirculation box movement range is a short "closed-to-open", the auto version range is much wider "closed-to-open-to-closed". Simply replacing the motor causes the control unit to signal an "actuator stuck" DTC because the motor won't respond with the range of movement expected.

Replacing the recirculation flap assembly seems to be possible (and I even got the right part number for that) but according to Audi maintenance manuals it would require removing the whole air conditioning box, which would require removing the dash, which requires removing almost everything, so instead I decided to work on a simple analog circuit to convert the signals from the motor potentiometer to the range of values expected by the control unit. The one I currently have seems to work reasonably well, but I'm still improving it.

 

[1Rockape]

Wow record that's a great retrofit and very in depth electronic/mechanical changes .
Do you think that you could change ti a digital panel but with manual operating as before .ie without climate . So basically same manual system buy with digital temp rather than turn dials , if do what modules and adaptions would you suggest trying .thanks


Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

 

[Rcord]

Wow record that's a great retrofit and very in depth electronic/mechanical changes .
Do you think that you could change ti a digital panel but with manual operating as before .ie without climate . So basically same manual system buy with digital temp rather than turn dials , if do what modules and adaptions would you suggest trying .thanks


Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

AFAIK the system will still work at least partially if you just replace the manual control panel with the digital one, even if you don't install all the sensors. That's what a few people who tried that told me, the HVAC will blow cold air and increase fan speed when as you reduce the temperature on the display. I'm not sure how it behaves when you set it to high temperatures. Anyway, there is the issue with the recirculation flap I mentioned in the previous post. Recently I had to drive across smoke on a highway surrounded by fire and it would be terrible if I couldn't have set my air conditioning to recirculation. Fortunately I had my electronic workaround working.

 

[MarcoV]

In order to have a fully auto dual-zone climate control retrofit, you would have to replace the whole air conditioning box. Probably too much work and money involved. Instead, in my car I used the intermediate solution proposed by this guy from Italy:
Part 1: Theory

Part 2: Mounting

Besides replacing the control panel, you have to install 5 additional sensors and make some changes in the wiring. It works very well as a single-zone air conditioning system.

Do you or anyone have the part numbers you need to get it working like the Italian dude?

 

[Rcord]

Do you or anyone have the part numbers you need to get it working like the Italian dude?

Sebastiano's video on YouTube has a link for a folder containing electrical diagrams, part numbers and wiring instructions:

 

[Bush_man]

Hi guys new here, Sebastian has removed all the li ks and is unreachable via email either. I know this is an old post but now harm in trying, any one still have the part numbers and wiring diagram to get this working?
Cheers

 

[Bush_man]

Sebastiano's video on YouTube has a link for a folder containing electrical diagrams, part numbers and wiring instructions:

Hi mate did you get my email?

 

[Rcord]

Hi mate did you get my email?

I sent you an email in August 18. Did you check your spam box?

 

[Bush_man]

I sent you an email in August 18. Did you check your spam box?

Thank you very much, yes it was in my spam folder .
God bless

 

[Bush_man]

If you buy a used air conditioning control unit it will probably work without any need of coding, maybe only a few minor changes if the unit was originally installed in a cabrio or a RHD/LHD setting different from your car.

But I think there's something you should consider before starting such retrofit. After finishing the retrofit in my car I discovered an additional issue that may be the most relevant: fresh air/recirculation works differently in the automatic and manual air conditioning boxes. The recirculation flap motor has a potentiometer to control its position in the automatic version, while there is no potentiometer in the manual version. The auto control unit signals an error when it detects that the potentiometer is not present and it seems to stop sending signals to the motor, or sends the signals intermittently.

I tried to solve this by replacing my original motor with another with the potentiometer, but doing that alone didn't solve the problem. Actually, I discovered that the whole reciculation flap assembly is different in the two versions. While in the manual version the motor moves only about 1/4 of a turn, moving from full recirculation at ont end to full fresh air at the other, in the auto version it rotates about 3/4 of a turn, beginning with full recirculation, passing slowly through partial recirculation/fresh air up to full fresh air, then it quickly returns to full recirculation. While the manual recirculation box movement range is a short "closed-to-open", the auto version range is much wider "closed-to-open-to-closed". Simply replacing the motor causes the control unit to signal an "actuator stuck" DTC because the motor won't respond with the range of movement expected.

Replacing the recirculation flap assembly seems to be possible (and I even got the right part number for that) but according to Audi maintenance manuals it would require removing the whole air conditioning box, which would require removing the dash, which requires removing almost everything, so instead I decided to work on a simple analog circuit to convert the signals from the motor potentiometer to the range of values expected by the control unit. The one I currently have seems to work reasonably well, but I'm still improving it.

Hi Rcord, I'm about to install the auto unit with all 5 sensors and wiring, but came across your comment which is interesting, do you mind sharing the part number of the motor with potentiometer? Also if you could guide me on how to create the analog circui. Much appreciate all the help my friend

 

[Rcord]

Hi Rcord, I'm about to install the auto unit with all 5 sensors and wiring, but came across your comment which is interesting, do you mind sharing the part number of the motor with potentiometer? Also if you could guide me on how to create the analog circui. Much appreciate all the help my friend

According to parts diagrams, there seems to be two different air conditioning boxes, one labeled as "JOHNSON" and another as "MES", with different part numbers for the recirculation flap motors. My car had a stock motor with part number 5q0907511, which corresponds to the one used in JOHNSON type box, so I replaced it with a 5q0907511A. If it was a MES type box, I suppose it would have a stock 5q0907511H motor, which should be replaced with a 5q0907511J. Post me a private message about the circuit.

 

[Bush_man]

According to parts diagrams, there seems to be two different air conditioning boxes, one labeled as "JOHNSON" and another as "MES", with different part numbers for the recirculation flap motors. My car had a stock motor with part number 5q0907511, which corresponds to the one used in JOHNSON type box, so I replaced it with a 5q0907511A. If it was a MES type box, I suppose it would have a stock 5q0907511H motor, which should be replaced with a 5q0907511J. Post me a private message about the circuit.

Snap! Mine came with the H version which was faulty and I just recieved a replacement H version today .. do I have to return it then and order J version? I'll send you an email abt the circuit as I'm not able to send private messages yet

 

[Rcord]

Snap! Mine came with the H version which was faulty and I just recieved a replacement H version today .. do I have to return it then and order J version?

The H version has only 2 pins in the connector, while the J version is supposed to have 5. The 3 additional pins correspond to the potentiometer that informs the flap position to the digital control panel. If it doesn't detect the presence of the potentiometer, a "recirculation flap motor potentiometer open or short to plus" fault is registered and the flap controls doesn't work properly. That's why I replaced mine with the potentiometer version.