Swapping out suspension, a few queries

Hi All,

I'm on the verge of swapping out my current suspension and I have a few queries.

Firstly, is it at all possible to remove the front strut without having to first remove the wheel bearing bolt to release the outer cv boot? I'm asking as I will need to order before starting.

Secondly, the dreaded pinch bolt. any tips? I've read using washers to push the bolt out helps. Unsure if mine is seized.

Anything else to consider?
 

NHN

Retrofitter - Audi - VW - Skoda - Seat
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Tbh sometimes its best & quicker to just remove the whole leg, put caliper to one side of course & drop it out of the top mount bolts & yes remove shaft bolt, tbh I've reused mine multiple times, they're meaty things, only anal Audi states change, but its not a stretch bolt, so imho reusable, your choice.
 

Troubs12

Active Member
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The pinch bolt will probably come out fine to be honest. Also it’s definitely worth getting one of these to get the hub off, it just takes the hard work out of the picture.

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Thanks for the responses. I've ordered a strut spreading tool and a strut nut tool. Reading around I might be able to get away with not having to remove the axel bolt by using the '2by4 method' - skip towards the end to see how he does it:
 
Appreciate all of the advice. I've picked up a bottle jack. How did you get the strut in? Same procedure in reverse - use the bottle jack, line it up and lower the strut in?
 

aqibi2000

Registered User
Appreciate all of the advice. I've picked up a bottle jack. How did you get the strut in? Same procedure in reverse - use the bottle jack, line it up and lower the strut in?

For refit, I place a trolley jack on the ground and lift the leg up which pushes the strut back into the pocket (also just tapping the area with a rubber mallet in case there’s any binding)

Removal was the part the jack, to break the corrosion
 

-Ju-

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
I've done loads of 8P's and as long as you have the hub spreader, which you do, I've never had to take the hub off. Just a bit of force pushing the hub down to clear works a treat. One side has a shorter drive shaft so has a bit less movement but still its fine.
I've never trimmed the bump stops down with either H&R springs or KW coilovers.
I did once change the drop links for shorter tt ones but I don't think it was ultimately necessary tbh.
 
Well, thanks for the heads up. Managed to do the rear suspension yesterday. Turns out driver side rear had a broken spring. Drove around 80 miles today and just with the backs you can really feel the difference, mainly because my suspension was knackered. Will do the fronts once the snow passes.
 
Got the front and rears fitted. However, reading around I'm suppose to tighten the strut to the wheel bearing hub with the car on the ground:

"
Tensioned installation of shock absorbers

Do not tighten the shock absorbers while the vehicle is still on the lifting platform and the wheels are hanging freely.

Correct:

Only tighten struts and shock absorbers in rubber suspensions once the vehicle is back on the ground (K0 position). Other fixings (e.g. clamps) have to be tightened before lowering the vehicle."
 

Troubs12

Active Member
VCDS Map User
Got the front and rears fitted. However, reading around I'm suppose to tighten the strut to the wheel bearing hub with the car on the ground:

"
Tensioned installation of shock absorbers

Do not tighten the shock absorbers while the vehicle is still on the lifting platform and the wheels are hanging freely.

Correct:

Only tighten struts and shock absorbers in rubber suspensions once the vehicle is back on the ground (K0 position). Other fixings (e.g. clamps) have to be tightened before lowering the vehicle."

Not gonna lie yes that is the proper way to do it but in 20 years I’ve never met anyone who’s actually done it that way. I replaced my front shocks about a year ago and have had no adverse effects of tightening them up in the air. The previous shocks where fitted by me about 8 years ago and again no issues except for normal wear and tear


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after torquing all of the rears up, I thought I'd check up to see if the bolts are pinch bolts/torque to yield/one time bolts. Yep. They are. Redoing them today.
 
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