weekenny
Registered User
Can I use a pulley removal tool from another car? For example a pulley tool for a Mini Cooper S is much less expensive than any of the S4 pulley tools on the market.
Thanks
Thanks
Supercharger pulley removal
- Thread starter weekenny
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This is the cheapest pulley removal tool I've found, used it to remove my SC pulley no problem just needed to unbolt the charger and lift it up a few inches for clearance but saved removing the whole front of the car.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Silverline-Puller-for-Ribbed-Pulleys-35-165mm-256243/1731068138
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Silverline-Puller-for-Ribbed-Pulleys-35-165mm-256243/1731068138
Did you need to use the puller in reality of can this pulley just get tapped off once the bolt has been removed?
Also, do you think that it is possible to replace this belt without moving the front out a bit, and also maybe even the aux belt and its tensioner?
Edit:- I do possess the required small hands to work in tight areas!!
weekenny
Registered User
Thanks I’d seen that one and was hoping it would work. Did you have to disconnect the coolant lines to the charger to lift it up? As I think lifting the snout would be quicker than service position. Cheers.
weekenny
Registered User
Oh!!!! Shows how much I've looked into this, I always thought that every time you replaced the supercharger belt you needed to replace the centre bolt on the supercharger shaft.
Humm, just been out to look, and have only now worked out that the supercharger belt is tensioned by its own tensioner! That is logical but not how I had assumed it to be, so maybe the "required" new bolt is for the tensioner as there does seem to be no bolt at the end of the supercharger shaft/pulley only a plastic cap/cover! Every day can be a school day, I thought that I had worked all this out years ago.
weekenny
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I’ve heard of people trying to “knock” the pulley off and bending the supercharger shaft so for the sake of £20 I would buy the correct tool for the job.
Yes I needed to disconnect the front coolant lines on the charger and drain a little out the system in order to lift the charger clear of the slam panel but it was easy and straight forward just mind the sensors on either side.
Yes I needed to disconnect the front coolant lines on the charger and drain a little out the system in order to lift the charger clear of the slam panel but it was easy and straight forward just mind the sensors on either side.
weekenny
Registered User
I’d not even consider knocking, cutting or a 3 legged puller. I’ve seen pictures of the results.
The “tuner” supplied tools are crazy expensive though.
The “tuner” supplied tools are crazy expensive though.
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Well there's the cost of the puller, the hassle of heating a pulley to put it on, and then the risk that it is not seated properly. Why not uprate the crank pulley instead (which has the advantage of replacing the OE one which has been known to fail).
weekenny
Registered User
Do you need to upgrade the belt to a high friction option?
Smaller diameter means less surface area.
Smaller diameter means less surface area.
weekenny
Registered User
Forge supplies a belt with the pulley, it’s just shorter rather than high grip as far as I know. Given the amount of contact area in all the grooves the reduction in contact area by reducing the diameter probably isn’t all that significant.
