Strange "No Start" after timing belt change


Registered User
May 15, 2008
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Hi All;
Here's my situation.
I replaced a leaking water pump and timing belt on my '86 5000 2.2L Turbo (MC) and when finished, it started right up and idled fine (feeling pleasantly smug!). However, there was some 'ticking/clattering' noise, and after 1-2 minutes idling, I turned it off WITH THE KEY!! Since the car had been sitting for a month, I thought that the lifters might be low on oil, (although the noise was somewhat louder than I would have expected). However, when I returned when a stethoscope, she would NOT START! Cranks fine, but no start.
I then noticed that I could not hear the elect fuel pump pre-pressurizing the line, so changed the fuel pump relay - still no 'buzz' with key 'on'. Then hot wired the FP directly, pump buzzing merrily (thankfully). Loosened the banjo fitting downstream (output) on the fuel filter, with fuel spraying out with good pressure. Re-connected fuel line - still no start.
Then double checked the timing marks (flywheel/cam gear dot/distributor notch) and all seems fine, set as per Bentley. Then removed the high tension lead from the center of the distributor and held it next to the head; what do you know, no spark. But, should it arc to the alloy head?
Did a fault code 'blink-blink' test and got blink fault 2113 ("VAG 1551/2 Fault code No. 00515 Hall sender in distributor Distributor alignment, faultly sender, Mis-located sensor and distributor" as per SJM Autotechnik web site) But distributor wasn't removed, and Hall sender wasn't touched. And since it had been running prior to turning it off ---- what gives??
I'm having difficulty finding what connection, if any, there is to these symptoms. Or am I just fortunate to have multiple/concurent failures?
Anyways, whats next?
Any Help? :think:
It's hard to say what is wrong, but by doing a cambelt, you may have altered the relationship between the crankshaft and the camshaft - now the cam drives the distributor so this is how it could be throwing the hall sender code.
The weird thing is that it did start ok? maybe something slipped? You could check that the timing reference pin has not broken off the flywheel. Maybe the distributor position is close but not quite perfect? there is not much room for error, a few degrees out either way is enough to stop it running.
Did you remove the distributor cap for any reason while changing the belt and pump?

That rattling sound you heard could have been the rotor contacting the cap?

Also make sure the belt is tensioned properly.