Stop the clock...Start the thread-My baby is home

tcg

Registered User
A bit of a positive week on the S3 front, treated the car to some new Bosch wipers in readiness for the BBQ summer we're expecting in Oxford this year :cold:
I have to say that the spoiler on the driver's wiper wouldn't look out of place on the back of a car!
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No doubt the drag from that is going to effect some performance/top speed.

Also another real bonus was managing to get the Phatbox up and running at last, I managed to hack it and now have up to 60gb of music to get lost in.
Just for anyone who hasn't seen a Phatbox in action, here goes...

http://vid281.photobucket.com/albums/kk220/yehnoyehno/MOV_0211_zpsxj7ftors.mp4

Hope that works.
 

tcg

Registered User
Seem to be spending more time on my S3 this week.

One of the most annoying things about the interior was the worn climate control buttons. I have been scouring ebay for a replacement since I got the car. Most on there seem to be as worn as mine, or worse, or a crazy price, so I was pleased when I managed to pick up one for just £18. Unfortunately it was for a single din console so I had to remove the buttons and swap them over. Here's how it went...

Had the lovely job of removing the stereo, damn you Audi with your fiddly clips.After a lot of patience that came out and was quickly followed by the heater controls. Once removed to gain access to the back of the panel there were 6 small torx screws, 4 on top and 2 below, here's the 4...
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Once they are removed there were 5 small torx screws to remove the printed circuit board from the heater fascia.
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Then with my trusted little bent screwdriver I was able to gently coax out the buttons very carefully by pushing them from behind.
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The buttons are a different shade of black but as I've changed all of them my OCD can live with that better than having to look at the worn ones.
Just need to find a headlight switch that isn't worn next.
 

ayfreetee

Registered User
I used the sticker kit on my climate, almost a perfect match, they also sell a sticker kit for the headlight switch, which I think I will give a go.
 

IPG

Registered User
Seem to be spending more time on my S3 this week.

One of the most annoying things about the interior was the worn climate control buttons. I have been scouring ebay for a replacement since I got the car. Most on there seem to be as worn as mine, or worse, or a crazy price, so I was pleased when I managed to pick up one for just £18. Unfortunately it was for a single din console so I had to remove the buttons and swap them over. Here's how it went...

Had the lovely job of removing the stereo, damn you Audi with your fiddly clips.After a lot of patience that came out and was quickly followed by the heater controls. Once removed to gain access to the back of the panel there were 6 small torx screws, 4 on top and 2 below, here's the 4...
View attachment 93181

Once they are removed there were 5 small torx screws to remove the printed circuit board from the heater fascia.
View attachment 93189

Then with my trusted little bent screwdriver I was able to gently coax out the buttons very carefully by pushing them from behind.
View attachment 93188

The buttons are a different shade of black but as I've changed all of them my OCD can live with that better than having to look at the worn ones.
Just need to find a headlight switch that isn't worn next.


how'd you get the heater control unit out without having to remove the centre console? the only way i know is to remove the whole centre console and press on the locking tabs. i can't seem too access the bottom locking tabs once the HU is removed (mine is the same as yours... double DIN)
 

tcg

Registered User
how'd you get the heater control unit out without having to remove the centre console? the only way i know is to remove the whole centre console and press on the locking tabs. i can't seem too access the bottom locking tabs once the HU is removed (mine is the same as yours... double DIN)

Having two heater controls gave me an idea of where the bottom clips were so I used a couple of long bladed kitchen knives and slid them in under the heater control and a couple of screwdrivers to get at the top ones, a bit of a ****** but worked for me.
 
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ayfreetee

Registered User
Stickers are much easier, you need to scrape away the black in the middle to leave a little white patch for the light to shine through.
 

IPG

Registered User
Yeah I've got a spare too. Just don't wanna go make holes or scratches.

Stickers are for sure easier but I think full replacement of the buttons is definitely the way to go. I used the sticker option for headlights controls and could see where the scraped off part was compared to where the old black rubbery stuff was
 

Willy

Registered User
Sorry to jump in guys but how do the sticker kits work and do you have a link to a good one ?
 

tcg

Registered User
Completed the last part of the jigsaw to make the travelling of my faithful companion as pleasant as possible today, I had the rear windows tinted in 'factory' 20% tints...
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Had it done locally and very pleased with the job, it does look darker from the outside looking in than looking out...
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So now my dog has an air conditioned, privacy room with a memory foam bed, how the other half live :cool new:

And when I say that this jigsaw is now complete, I reckon he'll be expecting me to wear a chauffeur's hat every time I take him out in the S3!
 
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vanilla_ice

Registered User
Completed the last part of the jigsaw to make the travelling of my faithful companion as pleasant as possible today, I had the rear windows tinted in 'factory' 20% tints...
View attachment 93608
Had it done locally and very pleased with the job, it does look darker from the outside looking in than looking out...
View attachment 93609
So now my dog has an air conditioned, privacy room with a memory foam bed, how the other half live :cool new:

And when I say that this jigsaw is now complete, I reckon he'll be expecting me to wear a chauffeur's hat every time I take him out in the S3!

You have 3 x 3 point seatbelts in rear?
 

tcg

Registered User
Had a problem this week with one of my remotes where the lock part of the button had become indented so much it was stopping the microswitch from releasing so I bought a couple of replacements from the world of ebay, cheap as chips...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151141987990?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

The tabs on the back are slightly smaller than the original Audi ones...
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But they're a good enough fit and function fine, just need to see how long before they fall out :rolleyes new:
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Spot the difference?
 
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tcg

Registered User
Not really a car phone user but thought it would be good to add bluetooth so I could mainly be able to receive calls when I'm driving, if needed.

Looked into getting an oem Audi bluetooth unit and by the time I had worked out the cost and hassle of wiring and getting it programmed it just didn't seem worth it, then I found this web page through Doctor Google...

http://oooo-a3.blogspot.co.uk/2005/10/bluetooth-phone-kit-with-concert-ii.html

I thought I could achieve something similar so this is what I did. I first purchased this bluetooth unit...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluetooth-carkit-motorola-hf850-bluetooth-car-kit/112027645933?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=20140107083358&meid=8865fdb08aad428d9f07260da341fd11&pid=100011&rk=1&rkt=5&sd=112014309521

I hate seeing those bluetooth controls on show so decided that it had to be hidden unless needed. The place that I found most suitable was the redundant ashtray...
DSC_0222.jpg


Remember back a few chapters to that dog guard I butchered?
Well in the spirit of 'Le Salvager' I cut out a spare section and glued it into the removable tray from the ashtray. Luckily there is a gap behind the ashtray big enough to pass the plug and lead for the bluetooth controller so that cable was fed through into the back of the center console.

I removed the driver's side lower dash panel and found the ideal place to mount the main box...
DSC_0215.jpg


It sits nicely in the spare space between relays, secured with some cable ties and it's right next to the back of the fusebox.

I needed a permanent and switched live so I soldered onto the fused side of number 8 fuse (unused) for an ignition feed and for a permanent live feed I soldered onto the fused side of the cigarette lighter (fuse 41)...
DSC_0218.jpg


I was able to thread the mic cable through the top of the driver's side dash behind where the fuse trim panel goes. I removed the door rubber along the A pillar and used a trace wire to get the mike to the interior light panel. Just needed to cut out one side of the holder for the original mic position for this mic to fit...
DSC_0225.jpg


I cut off the speaker that came with the kit and ran the speaker wires and phone 'mute' wire to the back of the stereo and used some small female spade connectors (insulated with electrical tape to avoid contact with each other) to wire in the phone.
DSC_0224.jpg


Now when I receive a call I can open the ashtray and answer, the radio mutes whatever it's playing and the phone audio comes through the front speakers, plus you get the thrill of seeing the word 'PHONE' on the radio display and DIS :yahoo:
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Happy days :footy:
 

IPG

Registered User
that's pretty smart to wire it in to the rear of the HU so it all works as a stock one would!!! so which terminals exactly ???

for the visual people....

Screen Shot 2016-06-23 at 23.29.14.JPG
 

tcg

Registered User
that's pretty smart to wire it in to the rear of the HU so it all works as a stock one would!!! so which terminals exactly ???

Good picture of wiring on the link mate...
TELEFON section on back of stereo
speaker (+) wire to TEL LINE (+) pin 3
speaker (-) wire to TELL LINE (-) pin 4
mute wire to MUTE pin 1

hth
 

tcg

Registered User
My first 6 months of S3 ownership has come round fast and I had to make the decision whether to trust it enough to tax it for another 12 months.

Well I did so it looks like it’s staying :sos:

What have I learnt from the last 6 months living with my S3?

I have certainly learnt a lot but am totally aware that I have only just scratched the surface and still have way more surprises to come. Not too many major jobs to do but plenty of minor ones, I guess that’s how the S3 keeps you in its clutches.

Just to remind me, driving around the day after I taxed the car, I noticed the Milltek was ‘knocking’ around the heatshield/back of the car so I took it to my exhaust mate and he sorted that and then showed me where the Milltek joined the front pipe. Yes, you guessed it, it was loose. My S3 certainly likes to keep me on my toes, I mean, honestly, how are you supposed to have a relationship based on trust when you know you are being lied to.

For some time now I have realised that the fuel gauge has been blatantly lying to me after filling up then using a quarter of a tank, getting back in the car, and ‘hey presto’ the gauge is showing a full tank again:rage:

After searching on here I tried a bottle of STP fuel system treatment advised by IanPG (I think). If so, thanks for that one as it seems to have cured the fault at present.

Still miss my last car but the wounds are slowly healing over, or is it just that they are being replaced by new S3 wounds. The next big step will be MOT time in a few months, always nervous when my car goes in for the first MOT since purchase.

Best start saving:blink:
 

millsy75

Registered User
Possibly careless garages?

Mine was broken once whilst having some work done and the garage put it back cracked.

I spotted it and had them replace it.
 

Stuart B

Registered User
the bolts get seized and you have you break it to get to the bolts to undo it to get to under the inlet manifold - I can proudly admit it was the first bit I broke on my car. I did put it back but have given up with the trim entirely until the day I think the car will be on the road for more than 3 weeks in a row. :)
 

tcg

Registered User
the bolts get seized and you have you break it to get to the bolts to undo it to get to under the inlet manifold - I can proudly admit it was the first bit I broke on my car. I did put it back but have given up with the trim entirely until the day I think the car will be on the road for more than 3 weeks in a row. :)

You must have a collection of parts waiting to go 'back on'...do you have them in a display cabinet in your lounge?

Best I get some copper grease on my bolts to hopefully prevent seizing :concern:
 

Stuart B

Registered User
it is the plastic headed cross head bit that just turns into a round hole that's the problem.

no everything is just junked in the corner in an arrangement of boxes - car is having its drive-shafts replaced today - I am hoping that really is the issue and not the prop shaft to transfer box.
 

tcg

Registered User
When I bought my S3 I failed to check that both boot pads worked and of course, the first time I tried the left one I found out it was u/s. Along with the boot key barrel being notably 'sticky' I made a mental note to sort it before having to bundle my dog in and out of the car, once the important jobs had been covered.

So that was today's task, pretty straightforward, or it would have been if I had copied the correct numbers for the repair wire from the post by A3 steve (thanks for the info mate).

As a true male, instead of going back and ordering another wire, I just butchered the ends of the wire enough to get them to fit inside the 're-modelled' connector. I also put a bit of silicone sealant around the connector plug in the hope it will help prevent it from corroding so quickly :sadlike:
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Worked out fine in the end
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Did take the opportunity to free up the key barrel and lube it with some spray grease so hopefully all bases covered!
 

tcg

Registered User
Or just us boot release on your key.
:)

Always one step ahead of me :hi:only found out I could lock the car with the boot key once it was working freely, it didn't turn to the right,only left with a lot of effort, so didn't know I could use it to lock the car :blush: learning all the time!
 

ayfreetee

Registered User
I didn't know that either, but then again I only ever use the remote, maybe all my locks are seized up too, best have a look and see, I might never get in the car again if the remotes pack up.
 

tcg

Registered User
It's HAMMERite time...

Spent the last few days smartening up the rear underside of the S3 this week,just basically cleaned off any loose rust and painted the arms,rods,calipers and driveshafts with the wonderful Hammerite,pretty much painted what I could reach.In an ideal world I'd dismantle the parts and do it properly but I'm not that keen or dedicated.

For me I still marvel at how great Hammerite is,I remember in the eighties when it came onto the diy scene and completely transformed painting rusty metal!

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Also managed to get rid of the awful odd,boy racer :blush: red caliper on the rear passenger side,now both matching black.

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Spot the deliberate mistake,I didn't until I took this picture :sadlike: a little touching up required.

Also replaced the rear headlight sensor as it had the common crack and corrosion where a previous owner must have broken it in the past...

DSC_0276.jpg


While I was tarting up this lot I took the opportunity to remove the plastic arch liners and gave them a clean,getting a dustpan full of dirt from the inside of the liners so they obviously hadn't been removed before.

Need to really remove the calipers and discs to get proper access to the backplates but that can wait until a brake pad change or when I can get the motivation.

I suppose I'd better do the same to the front end next but after crawling around under the car my old body needs a rest,plus if I spend any more time working under my S3 people might start getting me confused with Stuart B :respekt:
 

Stuart B

Registered User
At least your rear headlight level sensor actually connected to something, I spent hours replacing something which was broken - but the head lights had been replaced with manual controlled halogen's.

The hammerite makes a big difference, I did the front end the same way as I have the undertray still in a cardboard box and wanted to spray the power steering pipes.
 

tcg

Registered User
At least your rear headlight level sensor actually connected to something, I spent hours replacing something which was broken - but the head lights had been replaced with manual controlled halogen's

Now you've got me worried!

It is connected,to the rod and the electrical plug but haven't checked if my lights have been butchered like yours :blush:

Reminds me of an old 1.3 Marina coupe I owned many years ago with a wobbly headlight.I thought I'd take off the grill an adjust it but when I did I found that it was wobbling due to the fact that the fixings had rotten away!
 
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