Stop the clock...Start the thread-My baby is home

tcg

Registered User
Another cheapskate touch up on the S3,my wiper arms were really tatty so a pot of coal black satin Humbrol paint then a rubbing with some leftover Halfords cutting compound to flatten out the brushstrokes and dull it a little.

Pictures not great and they're far from perfect,but look a lot better than before for minimal cost and effort...I must try harder (or at least that's my school report always said!)

wipers.png


Also finally got round to replacing the missing cap that covers the wiper arm nut,just a few quid from Audi,part number:- W5N0 955 205 9B
 

tcg

Registered User
For several months I’d been researching about installing a RNS-E into my 2003 S3 8L.Originally I was looking to get a MK1 version.I’d also thought about going down the route of an Android headunit but they just don’t look that OEM enough to me right now.

I found a couple of threads,one on the A2 forum where a member had fitted a Mk2 unit (RNSE-PU [REV B]) by downgrading the software to 0150 version and then being able to code the RNS-E for an A6.It needed to be a unit that has the V.Signal input so the RNS-E can pick up the speed signal from the GALA wire.The latter versions of the MK2 unit are missing this input.

Just by chance,a MK2 (REV B) unit came up on ebay for the price of a MK1 unit so I snapped it up.Here’s a run through of my install,I owe many thanks to various people and threads/forums/websites,some more helpful than others.

Apologies for the poor quality pictures as I am as good at photography as my rubbish camera phone is.Also some of the links may have ended as I’ve been a bit delayed writing this up.

Anyway,I hope someone will find it useful as knowledge seems to be scattered all over the internet.Let’s get started!

First thing I did was to check to see if I had CAN H & CAN L present in my car.I checked the grey plug on the back of the dash clocks but no wires there so I thought I may have to run CAN wires from the dash clocks to the back of the RNS-E.

When I checked the wiring on the back of my Symphony II stereo,it had CAN H & CAN L wires present.Note to self...check behind stereo first!

Plug ‘n’ Play adapter

It seems there is no such thing as a “plug ‘n’ play” RNS-E adapter for a S3 8L.I just bought an adapter for Bose from ebay…

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-A3-A4-A6-RNS-E-sat-nav-PLUG-PLAY-installation-adapter-retrofit-set-kit-BOSE/151486346401?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

…then set about moving some wires/pins to make it right for my car.Obviously if you don’t have the CAN wires at the stereo you will need to either get an adapter with those wires included to run to the dash clocks,or make up your own CAN wires from dash clocks to RNS-E.

The CAN H goes into pin #5 on the grey (middle) connecter behind dash clocks.
The CAN L goes into pin #6 on the grey (middle) connecter behind dash clocks.

I found with my adapter I had to move the Bose wire to a different pin location and swap over the left/right audio channels for the cd changer(Phatbox).I also had to add a GALA (V.Signal) wire and RFSL (Reverse signal) wire input into the RNS-E.

To do this,as I have Bose in my car and didn’t need the front speaker wires to the RNS-E,I removed that plug from the RNS-E adapter (to do this each plug has a tab to press to release it from the main RNS-E block) and moved two of the wires to the block (Symphony II end of the adapter) containing the main power source to the RNS-E.I then cut off the pins on the RNS-E end of the two wires and crimped on some pins,that came from ebay (Part No. 000979164E) to fit the wires in the corresponding pin locations at the RNS-E block.

With another set of pins and plugs from ebay in Germany…

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ISO-Stecker-SET-2x-8-polig-Lautsprecher-Strom-fur-den-Anschlus-von-Autoradio-/162876149905?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&nma=true&si=Qla65MKBcf5fCJuwwhu%2FvyOGd%2Bs%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

DSC_0478.jpg

DSC_0472.jpg


…I used some pins for the GALA & RFSL wires I had run to the center console.I also used some of these pins and one of the blocks,along with the redundant speaker block to connect the wires from my aftermarket Bluetooth phone.

I used this information for my set up including bose with aftermarket Bluetooth phone to match up my Symphony II input wires to the RNS-E input wires...

Symphony II RNS-E


A1 LINE REAR LEFT CHANNEL OUT C5
A2 LINE REAR RIGHT CHANNEL OUT C11
A3 LINE OUT GROUND C8
A4 LINE FRONT LEFT CHANNEL OUT C3
A5 LINE FRONT RIGHT CHANNEL OUT C9
A6 ANTENNA AMP(+)OUT D13
A8 CAN HIGH D9
A10 GROUND(-) D12
A12 CAN LOW D10
A13 CDC DATA IN B11
A14 CDC DATA OUT B6
A15 CDC CLOCK DATA IN B12
A16 POWER(+12V) B4
A17 CD CONTROL OUT B10
A18 CD AUDIO GROUND B2
A19 CD AUDIO LEFT CHANNEL IN B8
A20 CD AUDIO RIGHT CHANNEL IN B9

C1 BOSE B7
C2 ALARM GROUND D14
C3 K-LINE B5
C7 POWER(+12V) D5
C8 GROUND(-) D12

D1 TEL MUTE D11
D3 TEL(+) IN C12
D4 TEL(-) IN C6

** GALA B3
** RFSL C2

I found the easiest way to sort the wire/pin locations was to get some cable labels…

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50x-Cable-id-Tidy-Labels-Self-Adhesive-Sticky-Identification-Stickers-Tags-Plugs/322416521238?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

…and tag each wire from the Symphony II connector to the RNS-E connector.I also bought a set of pin removal ‘keys’ to save faffing about with bent paper clips…

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/11pcs-Wiring-Connector-Extractor-Car-Terminal-Pin-Removal-Puller-Release-Tool-UK/122619762789?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

…for the price of a few quid it makes the job so much easier.I also bought some loom tape from the bay…

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tesa-tap...-15mm-x-15m-/112643924629?hash=item1a3a19e295

satnav11.png


For the reverse wire signal I took a 'feed' from the passenger side tail light as I’d already run the Phatbox cable in the past and knew it was as easy as hunting around the fusebox for a 'feed' point.It was fed from the boot,behind the rear door card,the passenger door sill trim and kickplate (one screw holding kickplate in) can then be popped off to feed the wire around under the glovebox to the back of the centre console.For the cable for these wires I got,yes you’ve guessed it...from the bay,some 1mm automotive cable…

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTOMOTIVE-1mm-THINWALL-ELECTRICAL-AUTO-CABLE-WIRE-16-5AMP-ALL-LENGTHS-COLOURS/182266335806?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

For the GALA wire access to the dash clocks is needed (also if you have to run CAN H & L wires).To do this,I released the steering column adjuster and moved the column to its lowest point.Place a blanket,or some protection,over the steering column.There is a plastic trim under the dash clocks which needs to be removed by prising off back towards you.Now you should be able to see two screws (white circles) that are holding the clocks in place,these need to be removed BUT be careful as these can fall behind the dash so I used a magnetic pointer to make sure the screw stays put when you undo it.

satnav222.png


With the screws removed the clocks can now be pulled out gently (this is where you need your protection on the steering column) to gain access to the multiplugs on the back of the cluster.They are removed by lifting the purple lever at the end of the plug,it will withdraw as you move the lever over the top of the plug.


When you look at the plug you will see it has numbers on it for the corresponding pins,numbered 1 to 32…

DSC_0497.jpg


…there is a purple flap at one end that needs to be slid off from the plug and a cable tie securing the wires entering the plug to be removed so that you can slide out the block of pins.

If you need to run CAN H & L wires you will need to open up the grey (middle) connector plug and add the two wires to the corresponding pin places.I believe,but haven’t needed to use them so can’t be 100% sure,the pins that I got for the GALA & RFSL wires into the RNS-E block (Part No. 000979164E) would fit the 32 pin connector blocks behind the dash as both the two blocks look the same dimensions.I’d check first if you need to use them.

CAN H Grey Connector PIN 5
CAN L Grey Connector PIN 6

As I didn’t need to run CAN wires,I just had to tap into the GALA (speed signal) wire from the dash clocks.To do this you need to open up the Blue connector and tap into the green/white wire that is located in PIN 31.I did this by using my pin tool to remove the pin from the block then stripped off about 1cm of the wire sleeve and soldered on a wire to run to the RNS-E.I covered the soldering with some heatshrink and tidied it up with some loom tape.I ran the wire along a loom down the back of the dash to the back of the centre console.I found it helped to remove the driver’s side lower dash panel to do this,there’s plenty of guides on how to remove the panel on this forum.

satnav33.png



GPS Antenna

I’d read many posts about people putting the GPS behind the dash clocks or behind the glovebox with differing success.I thought as I have no sunroof in my S3 the best place for the GPS would be in the interior front rooflight fitting,as it is higher up than both other options.

The GPS antenna was purchased from ebay…

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-External-GPS-Satnav-Antenna-Magnetic-Aerial-RG174-For-Audi-BMW-Vauxhall-Ford-/162416697119?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&nma=true&si=Qla65MKBcf5fCJuwwhu%2FvyOGd%2Bs%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

…with a 3 metre cable on it making it just long enough to root through the headlining and down the passenger A pillar,then behind the back of the glovebox following the same path as my RFSL and Phatbox cables.

I have a trusty length of old thick mains earthing cable and used it to trace the GPS lead,that way you can use it to thread from interior light to sun visor light aperture,then using the trace wire,pull back the A pillar rubber at the top and thread the trace wire through to the sun visor light.Then it can be ‘eased’ down the pillar and with the passenger side dash cover removed you should be able to feed it through behind the glovebox.From there it can hook up to the other cables heading to the centre console.

gps aerial2.png


I got the diversity aerial adapter included with my “plug ‘n’ play” RNS-E adapter from ebay so that was a pretty easy job to sort,just “plug ‘n’ play”.


Trimming the RNS-E

This was the most scary part of all as it could go t!t$ up,but luckily it went ok for me.First job was to cover the screen with some padding and wrap up the fascia with some masking tape.The metal trim strip at the bottom of the unit,which needs to be removed,has three tiny hex screws holding it in.They came out easily with the right screwdriver.

To get the measurements for the cutting of the bottom of the fascia I used some masking tape at the bottom of the centre console either side of the opening then slid the RNS-E as far into the hole as possible and marked the fascia in line with the markings on the console.

Once I had the marks on the fascia of the RNS-E I needed somewhere stable to cut off the bottom and found it slotted nicely into my workmate bench.As a straight line guide I used an old piece of tile edge trim from my garage ‘parts bin’ (I had to cut out a bit so it would fit past the on/off switch).The tile trim was clamped down and I used my ‘dremel’ to cut off the bottom section.That still left a few ridges underneath the RNS-E but I found my window paint scraper did a great job of removing them,followed by a light sanding with 180 grit paper and sanding block,just to tidy up the bottom edge.

For the sides I measured the top of my Symphony II and that measured about 5mm narrower than the top of the RNS-E fascia.I then moved my tape measure down the front of the Symphony II about 4cm and measured the width there and transferred that to the RNS-E fascia.A bit of freehand sketching and I had a cut line either side of the fascia.This time I used sandpaper (180 grit) and a sanding block as it is much safer that way.It just means a case of sanding a bit,checking by fitting,back to more sanding,and repeated until I was happy with the fit (making sure not to push the RNS-E right in as we all know what fun it is trying to get the stereo keys to locate!).

satnav55.png


Once all that was done and the RNS-E installed it leaves a gap above the unit and the hazard switch fascia.I’d read about people going to B & Q to get some black moulding to fill the gap but I thought about using some of the chrome tile edge trim that was used as a cutting guide.I’m embarrassed to say that my stock was low so I had to shell out just under £8 to get 2.4m,when I needed about 25cm,but hey it took me two goes anyway before I got it good enough to use.I got the tile edge trim from Travis Perkins (GENESIS 10mm chrome edge tile trim)...

https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/Genesis-10mm-Polished-Chrome-Straight-Edge-Tile-Trim-ESA100-91/p/485659#

First I used the hazard switch fascia as a guide to get the width needed for the chrome strip.I then marked out where it needed to be trimmed to fit nicely behind the fascia and used a hacksaw to cut ‘channels’ in the back side of the trim.For the longer sections I made several cuts then used a pair of pliers to wiggle the ‘waste’ pieces until I had a suitable profile.

satnav44.png


That was what I did for the install,next job was getting the RNS-E to work in my car.

Soft coding

As I only have VCDS Lite,I could have done the soft coding,but as the unit needed to have the software downgraded I took it to my local mech. for the coding.

For the software downgrade I needed a genuine Audi sat nav disk (8P0 060 884 AN) (2010-0650) Europe - Includes 0150 SW for 2010+ RNS-E.
I found a great thread for the information on Audi sat nav discs here...

https://audiforum.us/threads/audi-navigation-dvd-part-numbers.6857/

Also,when searching for a suitable disc I found there was two different part numbers but this thread put it straight...

https://audiforum.us/threads/difference-beteween-8p0-060-884-aa-8p0-919-884-aa.6442/

To do the software downgrade,here’s what you need to know...

To downgrade the software, have an older DVD (0150 or less) ready and follow the steps listed below:
- remove the current DVD from RNS-E if inserted
- connect with VAG-COM to #37
- set channel 97 to 1 and save the value
- exit VAG-COM
- insert the old DVD that contains the software you want to downgrade to
- wait until the RNS-E finishes the update (starts a few seconds after inserting the DVD, will reboot twice and then power off)
- connect with VAG-COM to #37 channel 97 and save the value of 0

Once the software as been downgraded and confirmed the unit can be soft coded for an A6.Mine was coded as A6 with Bose,CD Changer(Phatbox) and no phone as I just have my basic Motorola Bluetooth at present.

Here’s a link to the soft coding...

https://audiforum.us/threads/vag-codes-for-rns-e.55/

Mine was coded 0509113

0= Always 0
5= A6
0= Diagnostics for front speakers inactive (not A4 cabriolet)
9= Bose soundsystem
1= No telephone
1= Default (standard radio,no AUX in)
3= CD changer (Phatbox)

Also to get the navigation in the DIS (dashboard display) you need to go to #17 (Instrument Cluster) > Adaptation -> Function 10 -> Channel 62

It should show a ‘1’ for radio so to get the nav to display you have to add ‘4’ to that value making ‘5’ the input required.You can then toggle the stalk between nav info or temp/mileage/mpg,etc.

Since the install the DIS always returns to nav display by default so I need to investigate in the future whether that can be changed,if desired.

So that’s how it was done with my install,however at least I thought it was but when the unit had the software downgraded the unit immediately became code locked.

I had been in contact with the seller and from our conversations I had no reason to believe I was being duped here.I did a bit of research and also went to see my local Audi dealer in Oxford.They were really helpful and spent the best part of an hour trying to figure it out but with no success and it only cost me a batch of fairy cakes for their time!

What I did find out is that the pin code on my unit had been changed in the past so was not the original code but even the original code would not unlock it.I now found myself the owner of a RNSE-PU paperweight/doorstop.

After some frantic googling and phoning around I was beginning to get a feeling of despair until I got in touch with the people at Sat Nav Systems…

http://www.satnavsystems.com/diagnostics-repairs/

They quoted me £90 to unlock it or nothing if it couldn’t be done.As they were only 60 miles away I took the S3 out for a little cruise and dropped it off with them and a few days later received the good news that the unit had been unlocked.

Unfortunately it is not all good news as it appears my unit has a ‘checkered’ past and every time they tried to upgrade/downgrade the software,the unit would become code locked again so they advised me to keep it at 0210 software which means it has to run on a 2010/2011 nav disc.I can live with that for now.

DSC_0564.jpg

All in all including the cost of the code unlocking the budget for this install has still come in under £400 and I now have a much better OEM system with sat nav and 64gb of music to load up on SD cards.I haven’t even started to play about with it and see what it can actually do,but in my opinion,it looks so much better than the Symphony II and really updates the cabin.

Obviously,as a disclaimer,I take no responsibility for anyone else’s install,just my own.

Here’s the money shots,hope you like what you see...

IMG_20180620_101024.jpg

IMG_20180620_101005.jpg


I guess I’ll have to sell on my Phatbox now and I’ve become emotionally attached to that,it’s hacked to 60gb,it’s retro,and I love the voice commands but I expect it will have to go sometime soon as the mp3 SD cards give more info and are easier to operate even though you won’t get a lovely lady announcing “The next playlist is Motorhead” which is a somewhat pleasant experience.
 

tcg

Registered User
Cheers guys,with my computer tech and admin skills,I think the write up was the hardest part.I'm sure anyone could do the same now they know an old f4rt like me has managed to install one!

I'm that sad I think I'm more impressed with the chrome trim fix than the RNS-E :blush:
 

warren9022

Registered User
@tcg Great write up. I'm planning on doing this soon so will be a big help :thumbs up:.

Just a couple of questions.....why do you need to downgrade the software in order to soft code it? And is the RFSL wire a necessity?
 

tcg

Registered User
Cheers mate,

If fitting a MK1 model (RNS-E [part number ending...192] ) no software downgrade is needed.If fitting a MK2 model (RNSE-PU [part number ending...193] ) then to be able to softcode the unit as being for an A6,it will only let you do it if the software is version 0150 or lower.

I don't know the exact reason but guessing maybe they stopped making A6's around that year.

The RFSL wire isn't necessary unless you want to fit a reversing camera in future and you could do that job then,I suppose.

If you're a bit anal,like me,it does give more accurate GPS as the unit registers you are reversing,and of course,I spend most of my life reversing in one way or another :rolleyes new:
 

warren9022

Registered User
Cheers mate,

If fitting a MK1 model (RNS-E [part number ending...192] ) no software downgrade is needed.If fitting a MK2 model (RNSE-PU [part number ending...193] ) then to be able to softcode the unit as being for an A6,it will only let you do it if the software is version 0150 or lower.

I don't know the exact reason but guessing maybe they stopped making A6's around that year.

The RFSL wire isn't necessary unless you want to fit a reversing camera in future and you could do that job then,I suppose.

If you're a bit anal,like me,it does give more accurate GPS as the unit registers you are reversing,and of course,I spend most of my life reversing in one way or another :rolleyes new:

:tearsofjoy: Thanks for the knowledge mate, I'll let you know how I get on with mine. Got a used centre console to 'adapt' the cage to eliminate the gap at the top.....just got to try and find a good used RNSE unit now!!
 

syncro

Registered User
Great write up, I have the mk1 unit in my s3 but I do have a mk2 unit to fit someday. You can stop the nav taking priority over the dis, It a long time since I did mine but I think I turned off the compass in setup and now it only takes over if using the navigation so you don’t have direction and placename showing instead of the regular dis info which i used to have to manually switch to each time I started the car.

Does the time sync problem between clocks and rns-e bother you? I solved mine without a cangate module but my clocks are from a different model and are hacked (and I also have an engine conversion) but I’m almost sure these clocks could be fitted in a standard s3 and coded, another advantage of the more advanced clocks is that it remembers the rns-e if I disconnect it or the battery and I don’t need to input the code anymore.
 

tcg

Registered User
Cheers mate,unticked the compass box in menu and that's sorted,you're the man:hi:

With regards to the clock being out of synch,mine isn't,it shows exactly the same time as the DIS is showing.It is set in the menu to use the DIS clock...

IMG_20180707_095533.jpg


HTH
 

syncro

Registered User
Could it be because you have a mk2 nav unit? My mk1 nav unit won’t sync the time with my original s3 clocks, lots of rns-e retrofitters have the time sync problem, a bjarne cangate module seems to be the only solution and is worth a small fortune second hand as they haven’t been available for years.

Have you thought about a mfsw to control your new rns-e? I can help with part numbers of the bits used in mine and wiring information if you need. I have oem Bluetooth with sds and a fully functioning manual ttrs fbmfsw with a custom polo 6n2 single stage airbag fitted in to the ttrs airbag cover.

I must change to the mk2 unit soon so I will be annoying you for information relating to the software downgrade and coding!
 

tcg

Registered User
Arrggghhh!

Third time unlucky :rage: an MOT too far...

My S3 failed it's test,a split driveshaft gaiter and one headlight beam to low.

I would have liked to have done the gaiter as I haven't done one on my S3 yet but a sick dog and mother have put paid to that so I got the guys at Oxford Audi to do it and managed to get what I thought was a reasonable price + cakes!

Unfortunately they had a look at the headlight and told me the adjuster motor/mechanism was corroded so they would have to replace the whole unit,as you'd expect from a main dealer,but they were happy for me to take it home,get it fixed and if I can get back in the ten days grace,a free retest.

So it looks like my job this weekend is to strip down the headlight and see if it can be fixed.

I hope it can as it's hard to find secondhand ones for a reasonable price.

Also due to the new MOT laws I am only allowed to drive it back home and to a garage for repair/MOT...off the road again...I wonder if Audi offer courtesy walking boots to cover the extra miles I'm treading to and from the dealers.
 

Stuart B

Registered User
arhh man - so even if you take an MOT early if any issue is a failure the car has to come off the road immediately? it's almost like you want a pre-test option first like in the 70s / 80s so you dont upset the authorities - you pay them a tenner and they tell you if it will pass or fail? so the car doesn't get side-lined whilst still on a valid MOT. (just unplug the electric adjusters and adjust them manually for the test - then get some decent lights from TUPS)
 

IPG

Registered User
i've had issues with my headlight beam..... one of the adjusters stripped it's threads and the leveller bracket somehow came off

bitch of a job to get it back on again :(

Good luck
 

tcg

Registered User
Well hopefully it may turn out ok...the plastic cog on the adjuster rod has obviously over time perished and not gripping the shaft,ooh er missus!

IMG_20181006_121230.jpg


If I'm lucky I might be able to find an A3 in a local scrappy and rob one,just hope they don't realise the value of such an indiscriminate part.I can't believe Audi would not supply replacement ones,they must only cost a few pence to produce and such a common failure.
 
  • Like
Reactions: IPG

tcg

Registered User
Back on the road :racer: picked up my S3 today with a new MOT :yum: I managed to find an A3 8L in a local scrappy,unfortunately not Xenon and had to buy the whole light unit but only cost a tenner and came with a free adjuster motor.

I stripped it down and was able to prise an adjuster cog from it's shaft,resin bonded that one onto my headlight adjuster rod and Hey Presto!

Dropped it back to the Audi dealership yesterday morning and by the afternoon was informed it had passed.The last week has been another roller coaster,plenty of peaks and troughs,man this car plays with my mind :blink: I can't remember the last time I had to go to a scrapyard to get a bit for my car,certainly didn't wear hi-vis then and the cars were piled high and unstable,all nice and safe now for the snowflakes.

The people at the Audi Oxford dealership have been really helpful,I think their price of £220 (after a short haggle) to supply and fit the driveshaft gaiter was reasonable.They showed me exactly what was needed to fix the fault and they didn't charge me to realign the headlights for the retest and were really flexible with fitting my car in for the retest so it was done within the 10 days 'grace' meaning no retest fee.They also suggested taking my S3 in for a free Audi Cam check just before the MOT next year so I can see if anything needs doing before it fails the test.Sounds like a plan to me.

Plus I've probably walked 10 miles back and forth to the dealership over the last week so I can have a few beers to celebrate another 12 months MOT and to regain those calories burned off in walking and mostly sweating on what the outcome would be each time I walked into the dealership.

That's until the next time...
 
Last edited:

tcg

Registered User
Can breath a sigh of relief now...........but like you say till next time lol

Great minds think alike mate :yes:

Also I fear I may feel the wrath of the oil gods here but I use Castrol Edge in my S3 and found this place selling it at a reasonable price,cost me £4.99 delivery using paypal without having to create an account...

https://vwmotorparts.com/castrol-ed...MI_JH2uMbJ3QIVzLHtCh1ZNQJ7EAQYASABEgI-0fD_BwE

I'll get my bulletproof vest on and wait for the 'crack' of gunfire aimed at me!
 

warren9022

Registered User
@tcg They look good mate :thumbs up:. I remember when I changed from normal to LED bulbs on mine had to take one of the door cards off as there wasn't enough slack in the cable. Nothing is simple on these motors......
 
I got mine fitted a while ago. Don't do much nite driving so don't get to see them very often.
When I fitted mine I didn't have to take the door card of. I just popped the old ones out and there was plenty of slack wire to connect the new ones. Thank flip there was cause I wouldn't want to have had to take door car of.
 

Attachments

  • 20181019_185307.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 194
Couldn't resist a pair of these puddle lights...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CREE-LED...var=462566306895&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

View attachment 168009

Nowhere near the realms of a MFSW,eh? @warren9022 but true to Audi I had to remove the door cards and I had to prise back the foam backing so I could get enough slack wire to swap them over...no coding required :blink:

Nice touch mate, quite bright too. Standard are so dull.... can barely see your feet


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

tcg

Registered User
I seem to be getting 'au fait' with the door card removal and I'll have to have both off at some point,I still haven't removed the drivers side door blade to clean the cr@p behind it and I noticed the passenger door blade is lifting away slightly at the back now so I expect it needs some bonding...the list goes on.

I rarely drive my S3 at night either,that's how I missed the high beam being too low for the MOT and now I've found out how easy it is to remove the bumper I think I'll refresh the lights at the front.I'm thinking I'll go for 5000K lights.
 
I've only done a wee bit of nite driving lately and have really noticed how bright the new lights I got in the gb.
I went with 5500k bulbs I think and they give of a nice white colour.
You should email @t8ups and see what he has that would do you.
 

tcg

Registered User
Can breath a sigh of relief now...........but like you say till next time lol

You knew it!...a bit like going 'out out' instead of just going 'out',I usually 'neck' my car when filling up but this time 'neck necked' it,got back in the car,ignition on showing a full tank and then the spine chilling Audi 'BEEP' that always makes me think my S3 is about to self destruct on me...low fuel light on:rage: and the gauge started waving to me like before.

This time I used some...

CleanDrive Advanced Fuel & Exhaust System Cleaner

https://www.partsforcars.ie/pfc-special-offer/cleandrive-advanced-fuel-exhaust-system-cleaner/

Have to put it in when you have 1/4 tank and drive it like you stole it until the red light comes on,then refill as normal.I opened up the tank access and poured it all over the sender unit when I guessed it was around 1/4 tank.I did manage to get to 350 miles on the trip before the low fuel warning came on.At least it seems to have sorted the erratic fuel gauge for now and of course,the car is so much faster thanks to the placebo effect :blink:

On a more positive note,I've bought another MK2 RNS-E as I'm not happy with my current one,just need to swap faceplates over as this one is for a A3 8P.

I've also picked up an OEM Bluetooth module just to add to the workload.
 

warren9022

Registered User
You knew it!...a bit like going 'out out' instead of just going 'out',I usually 'neck' my car when filling up but this time 'neck necked' it,got back in the car,ignition on showing a full tank and then the spine chilling Audi 'BEEP' that always makes me think my S3 is about to self destruct on me...low fuel light on:rage: and the gauge started waving to me like before.

This time I used some...

CleanDrive Advanced Fuel & Exhaust System Cleaner

https://www.partsforcars.ie/pfc-special-offer/cleandrive-advanced-fuel-exhaust-system-cleaner/

Have to put it in when you have 1/4 tank and drive it like you stole it until the red light comes on,then refill as normal.I opened up the tank access and poured it all over the sender unit when I guessed it was around 1/4 tank.I did manage to get to 350 miles on the trip before the low fuel warning came on.At least it seems to have sorted the erratic fuel gauge for now and of course,the car is so much faster thanks to the placebo effect :blink:

On a more positive note,I've bought another MK2 RNS-E as I'm not happy with my current one,just need to swap faceplates over as this one is for a A3 8P.

I've also picked up an OEM Bluetooth module just to add to the workload.

What aren't you happy about with the MK2 RNS-e?
 

tcg

Registered User
My first one has either had the drive changed or it has been hacked before,it's running 0210 and if the software is updated/downgraded the unit will code lock and has to be 'fixed' by a company I found.Also now the FM radio will only store one preset.

The second unit is running 0150 software so I should be able to softcode that with my VCDS Lite.I'll swap over the fascia's and I'll either keep the other for spares or see if I can softcode the first unit for A3 8P and that may appeal to someone...or maybe I'll cut out the RNS-E clock display so one of you RNS-E MK1 guys can stick it over your clock so it matches the time on your DIS displays :thumbs up:
 

warren9022

Registered User
My first one has either had the drive changed or it has been hacked before,it's running 0210 and if the software is updated/downgraded the unit will code lock and has to be 'fixed' by a company I found.Also now the FM radio will only store one preset.

The second unit is running 0150 software so I should be able to softcode that with my VCDS Lite.I'll swap over the fascia's and I'll either keep the other for spares or see if I can softcode the first unit for A3 8P and that may appeal to someone...or maybe I'll cut out the RNS-E clock display so one of you RNS-E MK1 guys can stick it over your clock so it matches the time on your DIS displays :thumbs up:

First dibs on the clock when you cut it out.... :tearsofjoy:
 
  • Like
Reactions: tcg

tcg

Registered User
Ok mate,if I go down that route,I'll cut it out at 16.31...that way you'll have 30 minutes spare to grab a swift pint on the way home everyday!
 

tcg

Registered User
Had the chance of a good deal on another RNS-E MK2,thanks to @stbuk, as I wasn't happy with my first purchase.I just had to swap over the faceplates and screens as it was for an A3 8P and my first screen was in better condition.It’s a pretty straightforward job to do,I followed this guide…

http://www.lamboweb.com/Repairs_Section/Gallardo_Repairs_Audi_Nav_System_Face_Plate.htm

The only real scary bit was removing the three black screws holding the screen in place...they are fixed with Loctite and you need a good quality PHO screwdriver.As usual it was the last screw that wouldn't play ball and I came very close to rounding the head off before managing to undo it.I use the technique of trying to tighten a 'Loctite' screw as it's easier to release the bolt when you tighten it slightly,then it should undo ok.

Only difference on the MK2 is the ribbon cable plugs in and is easier to swap over.Also the ‘new’ unit is running 0150 SW so I was able to softcode it myself.I also picked up a Bluetooth module (8P0 [REV Q]) so running a late software version 0350 SW.Almost got a 8P1 version from Gemany but I think the seller realised and pulled it before I could buy it.I also bought a ‘plug & play’ lead which didn’t come with a mic.The Audi mic’s seem to cost a fortune but the VW ones don’t so I bought a VW one with the cable included as the connection at the mic end is different to the Audi one but the same at the BT/RNS-E end.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20e1-Blu...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649


I copied @S3AMJ by fitting the Bluetooth module behind the glovebox and routed the mic up to the ceiling dome light.I think it took longer to remove my Motorola BT than it did to fit the oem one.

IMG_20181203_115130.jpg


Although my phone is a basic Nokia 1,it is running the latest Android and paired straight away.Now I get the reassuring ‘bong’ when the phone connects and disconnects plus full phonebook,numbers dialled and missed calls.

IMG_20181203_115651.jpg

IMG_20181203_115639.jpg


Just need to get someone to code the instruments as my VCDS Lite won’t do that,plus I want to see about coding for a reverse camera although I haven’t found a cheap enough way of doing that yet.
 

warren9022

Registered User
Had the chance of a good deal on another RNS-E MK2,thanks to @stbuk, as I wasn't happy with my first purchase.I just had to swap over the faceplates and screens as it was for an A3 8P and my first screen was in better condition.It’s a pretty straightforward job to do,I followed this guide…

http://www.lamboweb.com/Repairs_Section/Gallardo_Repairs_Audi_Nav_System_Face_Plate.htm

The only real scary bit was removing the three black screws holding the screen in place...they are fixed with Loctite and you need a good quality PHO screwdriver.As usual it was the last screw that wouldn't play ball and I came very close to rounding the head off before managing to undo it.I use the technique of trying to tighten a 'Loctite' screw as it's easier to release the bolt when you tighten it slightly,then it should undo ok.

Only difference on the MK2 is the ribbon cable plugs in and is easier to swap over.Also the ‘new’ unit is running 0150 SW so I was able to softcode it myself.I also picked up a Bluetooth module (8P0 [REV Q]) so running a late software version 0350 SW.Almost got a 8P1 version from Gemany but I think the seller realised and pulled it before I could buy it.I also bought a ‘plug & play’ lead which didn’t come with a mic.The Audi mic’s seem to cost a fortune but the VW ones don’t so I bought a VW one with the cable included as the connection at the mic end is different to the Audi one but the same at the BT/RNS-E end.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20e1-Bluetooth-Rns-E-Cable-Set-Plug-Play-for-Audi-A3-A4-A6-Mobile-Phone-Fitting/302717090145?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649


I copied @S3AMJ by fitting the Bluetooth module behind the glovebox and routed the mic up to the ceiling dome light.I think it took longer to remove my Motorola BT than it did to fit the oem one.

View attachment 171215

Although my phone is a basic Nokia 1,it is running the latest Android and paired straight away.Now I get the reassuring ‘bong’ when the phone connects and disconnects plus full phonebook,numbers dialled and missed calls.

View attachment 171216
View attachment 171217

Just need to get someone to code the instruments as my VCDS Lite won’t do that,plus I want to see about coding for a reverse camera although I haven’t found a cheap enough way of doing that yet.

Looking good mate. You should be able to code your instruments with VCDS Lite, I’ve done it a lot recently....:tearsofjoy:
 

Stuart B

Registered User
Do you mean a registered version of vcds lite? I couldn't get my symphony 2 coded to DIS with the free version of Vcdslite.
 

tcg

Registered User
Looks good that, pleased you got it working.

Cheers Sam,wouldn't hesitate to buy from you again...top job mate :yes:

Looking good mate. You should be able to code your instruments with VCDS Lite, I’ve done it a lot recently....:tearsofjoy:

Same as @Stuart B,I have the free version,unregistered so only basic stuff can be done...my mechanic will do it for some beer tokens or I might take some cakes to Audi and see if I can sweeten them up into the Christmas spirit of goodwill to all men,especially me!
 

tcg

Registered User
Ah Man!...Today is not a good day,I had to have my faithful friend put down.He was a diamond,everything I'd hoped my S3 would be,but wasn't.

And he was the reason I bought it...damn you dog,you've left me with it now.

RIP Buddy...
RIP.png
 
Top