Stock boost pressure for 132kw AJL engine.

CliffA4

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Hi there, I'm wondering what the stock boost pressure is for the Australian AJL 132kw engine? I thought it was a little under 9psi like 8.7psi. I put a GT2871r eliminator kit on and put a gauge on and its reading 12psi on full load/duty. Is this normal or is the turbo kit raising it? I have a N75j valve to put on but wonder if it raises it to near 15psi it will hit some kind of safety cut or does the car already come with N75j? I have never been able to find a MAP sensor on it so would it use the MAF to recognise the increase or am I just looking in the wrong spots? The only info I ever find online is for usa versions and they are different to the Australian models.
Thankyou.
 

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12-14psi is correct for 180hp AJL

with that turbo on stock map and N75 plugged in you will likely see boost spikes as i did on a K04 hybrid so i unplugged the N75 and also raised the actuator pressure to around 8 psi, fitted a VR6 3” MAF housing and saab red top injectors and switched out the FPR to a 3 bar iirc (might of been 4 bar) been awhile since ive owned a 1.8T
 
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12-14psi is correct for 180hp AJL

with that turbo on stock map and N75 plugged in you will likely see boost spikes as i did on a K04 hybrid so i unplugged the N75 and also raised the actuator pressure to around 8 psi, fitted a VR6 3” MAF housing and saab red top injectors and switched out the FPR to a 3 bar iirc (might of been 4 bar) been awhile since ive owned a 1.8T
Thankyou for the swift reply, from what I understand it's risky not using the N75 valve right? So if I do install the N75j will it hit a cut? I have a 3-5bar adjustable FPR to install if it needs higher pressure too. I brought a quality boost tee for it but never used it because I was led to believe I need to use the N75 valve for safety.
 
12-14psi is correct for 180hp AJL

with that turbo on stock map and N75 plugged in you will likely see boost spikes as i did on a K04 hybrid so i unplugged the N75 and also raised the actuator pressure to around 8 psi, fitted a VR6 3” MAF housing and saab red top injectors and switched out the FPR to a 3 bar iirc (might of been 4 bar) been awhile since ive owned a 1.8T
What about the MAP sensor? Does it even have one? All the intercoolers I look to buy have a fitting for a MAP. I figured it must not have one and will have to have the fitting capped off.
 
What about the MAP sensor? Does it even have one? All the intercoolers I look to buy have a fitting for a MAP. I figured it must not have one and will have to have the fitting capped off.
No MAP sensor fitted on AJL the ones you are looking at are for the later APU and B6 applications you need the FMIC suitable for 1.8T AEB as thats the more common AJL alternative.
 
Thankyou for the swift reply, from what I understand it's risky not using the N75 valve right? So if I do install the N75j will it hit a cut? I have a 3-5bar adjustable FPR to install if it needs higher pressure too. I brought a quality boost tee for it but never used it because I was led to believe I need to use the N75 valve for safety.
Its been awhile since i was in the 1.8T community im in the TFSI one now and still getting my head round those so my 1.8T knowledge is a little rusty so hopefully someone can help you out here more than i can.
From memory unless its properly tuned then the N75 needs be disconnected so the ECU doesn’t control the N75 and you just run boost on actuator pressure as when fitted inline with a turbo flowing more air than stock turbo/map the N75 duty isn’t correct so can cause boost spikes and fuel cuts but again im not 100% as ive been out the 1.8T scene for awhile so im trying to jog my memory lol
 
No MAP sensor fitted on AJL the ones you are looking at are for the later APU and B6 applications you need the FMIC suitable for 1.8T AEB as thats the more common AJL alternative.
Okay thankyou, I didn't think it had a MAP. The only FMIC I've found that's worth the money is one on ebay made here in Australia. It must be a multi fit kind of thing. The postage to Australia for anything else is ridiculous and usually more than the intercooler itself.
Here's a link to it. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1107989...lVKH3WySlK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
 

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Okay thankyou, everything I've read up about boost tee's on these recommends not doing it. Here a a few pics I found a while back but most comments after it said don't do it in any configuration because it's just asking for something to go wrong without safety cuts etc.
Its been awhile since i was in the 1.8T community im in the TFSI one now and still getting my head round those so my 1.8T knowledge is a little rusty so hopefully someone can help you out here more than i can.
From memory unless its properly tuned then the N75 needs be disconnected so the ECU doesn’t control the N75 and you just run boost on actuator pressure as when fitted inline with a turbo flowing more air than stock turbo/map the N75 duty isn’t correct so can cause boost spikes and fuel cuts but again im not 100% as ive been out the 1.8T scene for awhile so im trying to jog my memory lol
 

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Okay thankyou, I didn't think it had a MAP. The only FMIC I've found that's worth the money is one on ebay made here in Australia. It must be a multi fit kind of thing. The postage to Australia for anything else is ridiculous and usually more than the intercooler itself.
Here's a link to it. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1107989...lVKH3WySlK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
These are what use to be fitted commonly to A4/Passat B5’s which are similar to the autobhan88 kits that seem to be no longer available


The other thing was doing a DIY install with a ‘wellycooler’ basically a core with some piping made up to fit the 1.8T give that a search see if you can find the cooler dimensions needed probably better for your turbo application
 
Okay thankyou, everything I've read up about boost tee's on these recommends not doing it. Here a a few pics I found a while back but most comments after it said don't do it in any configuration because it's just asking for something to go wrong without safety cuts etc.
A MBC will stop boost spikes but ideally you want to have it tuned properly and then have the MBC set at a pressure control slightly above your peak boost pressure so in the event of a spike your MBC should stop it, i never indulged much into this as i was going to do the ME7.5 drive by wire conversion and having it tuned properly on a dyno with custom map but i got rid of the project due to unforeseen circumstances
 
A MBC will stop boost spikes but ideally you want to have it tuned properly and then have the MBC set at a pressure control slightly above your peak boost pressure so in the event of a spike your MBC should stop it, i never indulged much into this as i was going to do the ME7.5 drive by wire conversion and having it tuned properly on a dyno with custom map but i got rid of the project due to unforeseen circumstances
Okay, I do plan to get an ecu and harness adaptor in the future to have custom tuned but just want it to have some extra punch until then. Most of what I've read about custom tunes is that I won't even need the upgraded N75j valve because the tuned ecu will overcome the issues. I think I will strengthen the rods before getting a tune because I don't think AJL has a forged bottom end.
 
These are what use to be fitted commonly to A4/Passat B5’s which are similar to the autobhan88 kits that seem to be no longer available


The other thing was doing a DIY install with a ‘wellycooler’ basically a core with some piping made up to fit the 1.8T give that a search see if you can find the cooler dimensions needed probably better for your turbo application
It says item doesn't post to Australia. I try to only buy plug and play gear because I can't work on the car as much as I could of years ago because my back is stuffed. I had to pay a mechanic to put the turbo kit and water pump timing belt kit etc because I can't physically do it anymore unfortunately.