Sticking turbo vanes. Mr Muscle process advice!

R88RYY KING

Registered User
So I've been suffering from suspected sticking turbo vanes for a few weeks now. Car goes into limp up long hills and sometimes on the motorway when accelerating in 4th 5th gear 80 mph. Inconsistent boost too. I got the car carbon cleaned last week and although this has Made it better it's not cured the problem.

So I want to try the mr muscle clean I was just wondering if anyone knew the best process with my particular engine. I have a 2.0 tdi 170 Quattro. Pd. Brd engine code. Do I go on by unbolting the exhaust in the hot side of the turbo or there is another method going through the Egr and down to the turbo?? Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.
 

NHN

Retrofitter - Audi - VW - Skoda - Seat
Site Sponsor
VCDS Map User
Waste of time & money, best route is to remove turbo, strip, clean & refit.
 

Darren1983

Registered User
i tried this method with my old 1.9 tdi Passat bud,

it did seem to help, don't know if the process is the same for the 2.0 tdi though.

I would give a word of caution as well, you have to ensure the tube goes into the turbo and not the engine!! I was freaking out when I did it just incase it had gone down the wrong tunnel.

basically, I removed the egr pipe and fed a tube down into the turbo, then I removed the spray nozzle from the mr muscle and sprayed it down the tube(it has to be a tight seal between the nozzle on the can and the tube. from what I remember I left it for around 20 minutes then started moving the actuator up and down by hand.

as I said previously I would give caution towards this and ensure everything is done correctly. where gloves as the mr muscle is strong stuff.

I cant say for certain that it would work for your car or that it would be the same process but it did help mine.

if you are unsure about doing it then I would look to removing the turbo as said by NHN and cleaning it that way.
 

R88RYY KING

Registered User
i tried this method with my old 1.9 tdi Passat bud,

it did seem to help, don't know if the process is the same for the 2.0 tdi though.

I would give a word of caution as well, you have to ensure the tube goes into the turbo and not the engine!! I was freaking out when I did it just incase it had gone down the wrong tunnel.

basically, I removed the egr pipe and fed a tube down into the turbo, then I removed the spray nozzle from the mr muscle and sprayed it down the tube(it has to be a tight seal between the nozzle on the can and the tube. from what I remember I left it for around 20 minutes then started moving the actuator up and down by hand.

as I said previously I would give caution towards this and ensure everything is done correctly. where gloves as the mr muscle is strong stuff.

I cant say for certain that it would work for your car or that it would be the same process but it did help mine.

if you are unsure about doing it then I would look to removing the turbo as said by NHN and cleaning it that way.
Thanks for that. I'm going to take it to a local mechanic to do it as inhagentbthe tools or the knowledge really. I've seen a video of somone going in through the turbo exhaust exit which I would prefer but not sure if it's accessible ect. Thanks
 

NHN

Retrofitter - Audi - VW - Skoda - Seat
Site Sponsor
VCDS Map User
Its temp at best tbh & longevity it isn't, if you want less hassle later then do it properly is my advice, I've done quite a few bkd engines now & it really is the best way.
 

madstaff

Registered User
a3-turbo-2-jpg.14718


Cant beat a proper strip down and clean.
 

NHN

Retrofitter - Audi - VW - Skoda - Seat
Site Sponsor
VCDS Map User
That's exactly as it should be done :)
 

soldier4313

A4 Avant B9 2.0 Tdi
Buddy had the exact same problem in mine, I went through the the process of stripping and cleaning the EGR, taking to Audi having a brand new EGR fitted and finally Audi diagnosed the problem as the Vacuum Actuator on the Manifold a very cheap part and easy to fit if you look at my threads you'll see it on there. Touch wood I haven't had a problem since.
 

NHN

Retrofitter - Audi - VW - Skoda - Seat
Site Sponsor
VCDS Map User
Do it properly, mr muscle is a waste of time.
 

Pie-eyedpiper

Registered User
Remove your EGR valve and cooler.
Use the hole into the turbo (that covers with a blanking plate) and get a long tube on a can of Mr Muscle and squirt it down into the turbo. If really bad you'll need to move your actuator rod whilst it does it's job.
Here's a YouTube vid on an A3.

 

Pie-eyedpiper

Registered User
Do it properly, mr muscle is a waste of time.

What, it's a waste of less than a fiver and about 20 mins to attempt it?
It might not work on a heavily carboned up turbo, although the video says otherwise.
We haven't all got the time, tools and know-how to strip a turbo down. And attempting the Mr Muscle technique is a damn sight cheaper than a professional rebuild or a new turbo.
 

Pie-eyedpiper

Registered User
Well did it n its worked great

Good stuff, well worth trying a DIY clean.
All these "experts" who won't try it and disregard it. That's why so many people get turbos replaced by garages when all they need is a clean.
 
Last edited:

Pie-eyedpiper

Registered User
YouTube guide on stripping a VNT.
Note the comments made a 8min 35 secs about using oven cleaner....
....and this guy rebuilds turbos.

httpsps://youtu.be/o1Hvt2b7PL0
 

Louis Scott

Registered User
What are modification/tuning options on a brd? Ive so far done:
De cat
Dpf delete
Egr delete
Egr cooler delete

Anything else i can do to tidy up the bay or any upgrades to keep me busy? Had a few pd130 & 40’s & seemed way more options available
 

Pie-eyedpiper

Registered User
Have you considered changing your intake manifold to one without swirl flaps? And then remove your vacuum hoses.
Not a performance mod, just removing surplus equipment so less to go wrong.
 

Jamsmoo

Registered User
What are modification/tuning options on a brd? Ive so far done:
De cat
Dpf delete
Egr delete
Egr cooler delete

Anything else i can do to tidy up the bay or any upgrades to keep me busy? Had a few pd130 & 40’s & seemed way more options available

I’m keen to do all this but mot time puts me off ,is a sympathetic tester needed or am I worrying about nothing


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Pie-eyedpiper

Registered User
You're fine with the EGR removal, it can't be seen under the engine cover.
But as for a Cat and DPF removal you'd better hope Stevie Wonder is the tester, because unless they're skillfully done both are MOT failures.
 

Jamsmoo

Registered User
You're fine with the EGR removal, it can't be seen under the engine cover.
But as for a Cat and DPF removal you'd better hope Stevie Wonder is the tester, because unless they're skillfully done both are MOT failures.

If I’m doing the egr the dpf has got to go ,I’ve considered gutting it so it can’t be seen just worry about emissions


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Pie-eyedpiper

Registered User
Provided you can get the DPF fixed back together so it looks factory then no worries.
My BRE doesn't have a DPF anyway, so they're clearly not necessary.
And without the EGR forcing the engine to eat it's own poo my emissions are lower now.
 

Sloppy_1

Registered User
Provided you can get the DPF fixed back together so it looks factory then no worries.
My BRE doesn't have a DPF anyway, so they're clearly not necessary.
And without the EGR forcing the engine to eat it's own poo my emissions are lower now.
ha ha eat its own poo, years ago when i used to tune peugeot diesels first thing to do was pull vacuum hose off egr, only down side is they did get slightly worse mpg, there must be remnants of fuel that get 'reused' when it goes back through egr.
 

Louis Scott

Registered User
Have you considered changing your intake manifold to one without swirl flaps? And then remove your vacuum hoses.
Not a performance mod, just removing surplus equipment so less to go wrong.
Ive taken the manifold off my old bkd and swapped them over, so domt have to worry about swallowing a swirl flap anytime soon how do i go about simplifying the vac lines? Is it a similar set up to the pd130? N75 to actuator, brake servo & air filter? Struggle to find any guides on the brd engines
 

Pie-eyedpiper

Registered User
Have you just got your intake flap actuator hose blanked off?
Have you removed your EGR valve and done anything with that hose?
You can trace the hoses back to the solenoids under the turbo and remove both houses from there. Just leave the N75 valve in place.
A guy on the B7 Facebook page told me to take the solenoids off completely and just tape over the electrical connectors. I tried it but it brought up fault codes so I replaced them.
 

Louis Scott

Registered User
Have you just got your intake flap actuator hose blanked off?
Have you removed your EGR valve and done anything with that hose?
You can trace the hoses back to the solenoids under the turbo and remove both houses from there. Just leave the N75 valve in place.
A guy on the B7 Facebook page told me to take the solenoids off completely and just tape over the electrical connectors. I tried it but it brought up fault codes so I replaced them.
Swapped the intake manifold to a bkd manifold so theres no swirl flaps or actuator there, all the pipes have been traced back and capped
Egr valve is gone with a delete kit in place
 

Louis Scott

Registered User
I get a weird juddering when i put my phone down, asif the car is choking. So removed the swirl flaps thinking it was them closing, but now it does every now n then. With traction off it wont do it. Im going to look at getting a remap next as could be over fuelling and not happy with the power
 
Top