Stage 2+ ...?

redryan

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Just looking for a bit of advice regarding going stage 2 +
Had a stage 1 remap done on S3 by unicorn and managed to make 315bhp and 350 lb/ft and car ran fantastic. Not long after came the dreaded clutch slip... this has now been upgraded to a Sachs. This now has me looking at stage 2+... however looking at some of the figures there does not seem to be a huge increase in torque but an increase in bhp. So my question is would the car really feel much different at say 360bhp with 360 lb/ft over what it is now? Any advice appreciated.

Thanks
 
I think it depends on the shape of your graph. In that you might have a torque peak that goes quite high but is not spread out giving you a sustained push in the back. The figure of 350 ft lbs is quite high for a stage 1.
The + part of the map comes from an uprated fuel pump. This gives a broader spread of torque.
I started at stage 1+ then went to 2+ and there was noticeable difference. A custom tuner like RTech could get close to 400 ft Ibs with a stage 2+ map if the rest of your hardware is up to it. Over 4000 rpm the car is an absolute missile.
I’d say go for it you should not be disappointed.
 
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Thanks for your reply, certainly food for thought. Looks like I will probably go down the route of stage 2+
 
I have to ask did you have a starting point bhp/torque figure ?
 
They are good stage 1 numbers, especially the torque figure.

My Unicorn Stg2 gives 338bhp/342ftlb. Stock I had 293/295.
 
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Standard I had 282bhp and 290 ft/lb before stage 1 if that’s what you mean.

Thanks
Yeah always best to have a starting point,350 in the torque figure box is great so why are you after more ?
I had a 360 fwd car @ stage 2+ and it was good but are you actually going to do more than as it is ?
Maybe spend the cash on LED's in the interior speak to Trups and some better handling ?
 
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Yeah always best to have a starting point,350 in the torque figure box is great so why are you after more ?
I had a 360 fwd car @ stage 2+ and it was good but are you actually going to do more than as it is ?
Maybe spend the cash on LED's in the interior speak to Trups and some better handling ?

Thanks, that was the idea of my post to see if it was really worth it or stick with what the car is already producing... so in two minds...
 
Standard I had 282bhp and 290 ft/lb before stage 1 if that’s what you mean.

Thanks

Those figures look high for a stage 1. If the synopsis was optimistic for those it may have had a similar effect on the stage 1 values. My before tuning figures matched the Audi published figures quite closely
 
I went to a dyno and the standard cars were doing around that figure…some made 290 plus
 
Those figures look high for a stage 1. If the synopsis was optimistic for those it may have had a similar effect on the stage 1 values. My before tuning figures matched the Audi published figures quite closely
Hi,
Can only go off this if it makes sense to you guys...



Thanks
 

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Good numbers, what mods are you running?

Thanks, absolutely nothing just running on v power. That’s what intrigues me about stage 2+ numbers when I seem to have good output at standard, wondering what the car could make. So confusing all this malarkey...
 
Just looking for a bit of advice regarding going stage 2 +
Had a stage 1 remap done on S3 by unicorn and managed to make 315bhp and 350 lb/ft and car ran fantastic. Not long after came the dreaded clutch slip... this has now been upgraded to a Sachs. This now has me looking at stage 2+... however looking at some of the figures there does not seem to be a huge increase in torque but an increase in bhp. So my question is would the car really feel much different at say 360bhp with 360 lb/ft over what it is now? Any advice appreciated.

Thanks

Out of curiosity what clutch did you go for? And how much all in just for parts was it? I bought an 8P s3 a couple month back and there is the dredded clutch slip but only in 5th and 6th gear and not all the time. Just wondering what everyone has went for in terms of uprated clutches and how much of a hit to the wallet i can expect?

Cheers
Ben


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi @ben.nichol.58 - welcome to the forum. It’s not only the clutch that will hit your wallet. It all the other ideas you’ll get and upgrades you’ll make from reading the posts here.

I recently upgraded to a SPEC Stg2+ clutch and SPEC steel single mass flywheel. I ordered this from the States and it was £952 landed, including postage and custom duty.
 
Yea man im figuring that out already i have all the hardware and map done already for stage 2+ but obviously i want the clutch done, £950 from the states seems pretty reasonable, i was looking at the helix 6 pad clutches and Single mass flywheel but again not sure what would be best hence why im on here to see what people recomend. Hows the drive with the clutch sam? Heavy in traffic or near on OEM feel?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Out of curiosity what clutch did you go for? And how much all in just for parts was it? I bought an 8P s3 a couple month back and there is the dredded clutch slip but only in 5th and 6th gear and not all the time. Just wondering what everyone has went for in terms of uprated clutches and how much of a hit to the wallet i can expect?

Cheers
Ben


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Ben,

I really wanted a helix clutch due to hearing it has a more oem feel, however searched for a month but no stock available. Ended up getting sachs organic (luckily dmf was ok, car only covered 16k). Clutch was lot heavier than stock feel for first few hundred miles but feels great now. Tad firmer but I find it fine, even in traffic. Paid around £550 for clutch and drive plate. Hope that helps.

Thanks
 
Yea man im figuring that out already i have all the hardware and map done already for stage 2+ but obviously i want the clutch done, £950 from the states seems pretty reasonable, i was looking at the helix 6 pad clutches and Single mass flywheel but again not sure what would be best hence why im on here to see what people recomend. Hows the drive with the clutch sam? Heavy in traffic or near on OEM feel?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you on your 2+map?

I'm 400 miles into the bedding-in process and it's near on stock feel.
 
If you are looking for the nearest to oem you should be looking at an organic plate and not the 4 or 6 pad plates. They are very much on or off and can be difficult in traffic.
Anything will need bedding in to remove any judder.
We had a TTS that had a Helix Organic and LUK dmf and it copes very well with stage 2+. They all seem very springy and heavier than stock but you do get used to it.
 

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