Stage 2+ remap

Urallmine

Registered User
Hi all just wondering on the requirements for a stage 2+ remap for my audi s3 8p
I have
Ram Air over size induction kit
Autotech HPFP
Custom made exhaust
And I have a DV+ on the way
I was about to shop around for a upgraded intercooler but someone told me that I didn't need one.
Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks
 

phateuk

Registered User
Hey mate. So Stage2 and Stage2+ are essentially the same except the + usually means intercooler on top which given the amount of cash required to get to Stage2 alone, the few hundred quid extra to get the intercooler on for all the extra power and torque is worth it. Most people recommend going straight from stock to Stage2+ which is what I did, currently running at 380bhp and 421 lb/ft torque with DSG.

Stage2 Minimum Spec:
- Intake/induction kit, preferably cold air induction.
- TBE exhaust or downpipe at minimum, sport or race cat recommended (or decat, needs map)
- High Pressure Fuel Pump (or Auto-Tech internals) with 136bar RSV Fuel Pressure Return Valve
- Miller's Nanodrive 5w40 NT+ Oil
- 97-99 RON Fuel - Shell vPower, BP Ultimate or Tesco Momentum. 99 is recommended.

Optional but recommended extra include:

- Stage2 Airtec/Wagner Front Mounted Intercooler (optional, but is the main difference between Stage2 (upto 340bhp) and Stage2+ (upto 380/90 bhp and alot more torque)
- Iridium NGK BKR7EIX Spark Plugs
- Injector Service and Walnut Blast / Decoke
- Clutch/DMF upgrade if manual or DSG Remap
- Brakes, Suspension upgrades
- Runner Flap Delete mod - Needs to be mapped in to avoid issues with cold start but improves throttle response significantly and eliminates the risk of it failing and killing your engine.
- New coilpacks. Old ones will often fail quickly once remapped to Stage2 or higher and you can get nice red R8 ones if that takes your fancy.

On top of this I've also got:
Bar-Tek Turbo Inlet Pipe
Bar-Tek Turbo Outlet Pipe
Bar-Tek Turbo Muffler delete.

These don't add more power but do massively improve the turbo spool up and down, throttle response and let off some excellent turbo flutter.

Obviously before you get any of the above done you should ensure:
- all items on the preventative maintenance thread is done, especially the engine timing belt and water pump, DSG service, oil pickup pipe and the dipstick and PCV if needed.
- make sure you've got no vacuum/boost leaks or error codes.
- thorough service especially new oil and fuel filters and a clean sump (especially if you've not replaced the dipstick as it'll likely have little pieces of plastic in it and you don't want one of them blocking your oil pickup pipe).

For mapping you want R-Tech in Nuneaton just outside Birmingham. They are #1 in the country for mapping these cars and people go there from far and wide for a reason. Well worth the trip.

They have alot of info on their tuning and remaps here:



Their website does appear to be down at the moment though but check back later.
 

Urallmine

Registered User
Hey mate. So Stage2 and Stage2+ are essentially the same except the + usually means intercooler on top which given the amount of cash required to get to Stage2 alone, the few hundred quid extra to get the intercooler on for all the extra power and torque is worth it. Most people recommend going straight from stock to Stage2+ which is what I did, currently running at 380bhp and 421 lb/ft torque with DSG.

Stage2 Minimum Spec:
- Intake/induction kit, preferably cold air induction.
- TBE exhaust or downpipe at minimum, sport or race cat recommended (or decat, needs map)
- High Pressure Fuel Pump (or Auto-Tech internals) with 136bar RSV Fuel Pressure Return Valve
- Miller's Nanodrive 5w40 NT+ Oil
- 97-99 RON Fuel - Shell vPower, BP Ultimate or Tesco Momentum. 99 is recommended.

Optional but recommended extra include:

- Stage2 Airtec/Wagner Front Mounted Intercooler (optional, but is the main difference between Stage2 (upto 340bhp) and Stage2+ (upto 380/90 bhp and alot more torque)
- Iridium NGK BKR7EIX Spark Plugs
- Injector Service and Walnut Blast / Decoke
- Clutch/DMF upgrade if manual or DSG Remap
- Brakes, Suspension upgrades
- Runner Flap Delete mod - Needs to be mapped in to avoid issues with cold start but improves throttle response significantly and eliminates the risk of it failing and killing your engine.
- New coilpacks. Old ones will often fail quickly once remapped to Stage2 or higher and you can get nice red R8 ones if that takes your fancy.

On top of this I've also got:
Bar-Tek Turbo Inlet Pipe
Bar-Tek Turbo Outlet Pipe
Bar-Tek Turbo Muffler delete.

These don't add more power but do massively improve the turbo spool up and down, throttle response and let off some excellent turbo flutter.

Obviously before you get any of the above done you should ensure:
- all items on the preventative maintenance thread is done, especially the engine timing belt and water pump, DSG service, oil pickup pipe and the dipstick and PCV if needed.
- make sure you've got no vacuum/boost leaks or error codes.
- thorough service especially new oil and fuel filters and a clean sump (especially if you've not replaced the dipstick as it'll likely have little pieces of plastic in it and you don't want one of them blocking your oil pickup pipe).

For mapping you want R-Tech in Nuneaton just outside Birmingham. They are #1 in the country for mapping these cars and people go there from far and wide for a reason. Well worth the trip.

They have alot of info on their tuning and remaps here:



Their website does appear to be down at the moment though but check back later.
Cheers m8 i think
So basically what your saying is after spending £2800 already i am about half way there lol
 

phateuk

Registered User
Haha yeah, I think it can be done all in for around £4k but I've thrown about £9k at my S3 in coming upto 3 years and still need a massive upgrade to the brakes and suspension.
Brakes are totally stock and now struggling like hell with the power and the discs which are the originals are about 70-80% worn so they'll be going soon. Going to get Vagbramtechnic grooved discs all round with new braided lines and performance pads.
For the suspension it's currently running on AP coilovers but really want to add front and fear H&R ARBs, a whiteline anti lift kit and adjustable droplinks and new bushes all round. So yeah probably still need to chuck another £2-3k at it to get all than done and then it would be track day worthy.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention - the DV+ isn't recommended by R-Tech, a standard brand new rev G diverter valve is preferred. I had a DV+ on mine and was causing me all sorts of issues cos the piston kept sticking so I'd get rid and go back to Rev G personally and just replace it from time to time if needed.
 

samuelh_888

Registered User
Hey mate. So Stage2 and Stage2+ are essentially the same except the + usually means intercooler on top which given the amount of cash required to get to Stage2 alone, the few hundred quid extra to get the intercooler on for all the extra power and torque is worth it. Most people recommend going straight from stock to Stage2+ which is what I did, currently running at 380bhp and 421 lb/ft torque with DSG.

Stage2 Minimum Spec:
- Intake/induction kit, preferably cold air induction.
- TBE exhaust or downpipe at minimum, sport or race cat recommended (or decat, needs map)
- High Pressure Fuel Pump (or Auto-Tech internals) with 136bar RSV Fuel Pressure Return Valve
- Miller's Nanodrive 5w40 NT+ Oil
- 97-99 RON Fuel - Shell vPower, BP Ultimate or Tesco Momentum. 99 is recommended.

Optional but recommended extra include:

- Stage2 Airtec/Wagner Front Mounted Intercooler (optional, but is the main difference between Stage2 (upto 340bhp) and Stage2+ (upto 380/90 bhp and alot more torque)
- Iridium NGK BKR7EIX Spark Plugs
- Injector Service and Walnut Blast / Decoke
- Clutch/DMF upgrade if manual or DSG Remap
- Brakes, Suspension upgrades
- Runner Flap Delete mod - Needs to be mapped in to avoid issues with cold start but improves throttle response significantly and eliminates the risk of it failing and killing your engine.
- New coilpacks. Old ones will often fail quickly once remapped to Stage2 or higher and you can get nice red R8 ones if that takes your fancy.

On top of this I've also got:
Bar-Tek Turbo Inlet Pipe
Bar-Tek Turbo Outlet Pipe
Bar-Tek Turbo Muffler delete.

These don't add more power but do massively improve the turbo spool up and down, throttle response and let off some excellent turbo flutter.

Obviously before you get any of the above done you should ensure:
- all items on the preventative maintenance thread is done, especially the engine timing belt and water pump, DSG service, oil pickup pipe and the dipstick and PCV if needed.
- make sure you've got no vacuum/boost leaks or error codes.
- thorough service especially new oil and fuel filters and a clean sump (especially if you've not replaced the dipstick as it'll likely have little pieces of plastic in it and you don't want one of them blocking your oil pickup pipe).

For mapping you want R-Tech in Nuneaton just outside Birmingham. They are #1 in the country for mapping these cars and people go there from far and wide for a reason. Well worth the trip.

They have alot of info on their tuning and remaps here:



Their website does appear to be down at the moment though but check back later.
Na, the HPFP isn’t required Stg2. The main difference between Stg2 and Stg2+ is the HPFP. You’ll also go for the RS4 FPRV.

From Stg2 to 2+ you may get 15-20bhp increase but up to 60ftlb increase, due to the HPFP.

IC isn’t mandatory for 2+ but as said above, you’ve spent enough to get to here so you may as well carry on. The Airtec Stg2 (the Stg2 has nothing to do with mapping - it’s just their model number) is ample for a Stg2+ tune and beyond.

The DV+ is junk - just stick with RevG Audi DV.
 

phateuk

Registered User
Na, the HPFP isn’t required Stg2. The main difference between Stg2 and Stg2+ is the HPFP. You’ll also go for the RS4 FPRV.

From Stg2 to 2+ you may get 15-20bhp increase but up to 60ftlb increase, due to the HPFP.

IC isn’t mandatory for 2+ but as said above, you’ve spent enough to get to here so you may as well carry on. The Airtec Stg2 (the Stg2 has nothing to do with mapping - it’s just their model number) is ample for a Stg2+ tune and beyond.

The DV+ is junk - just stick with RevG Audi DV.
Ah yeah good shout Samuel, I forgot Stage2 is often doesn't require the HPFP and FPRV. But yeah as said above, you definitely want to get the intercooler alongside all this if going to this level as it's a huge increase in torque over Stage2 alone.
 

Urallmine

Registered User
Haha yeah, I think it can be done all in for around £4k but I've thrown about £9k at my S3 in coming upto 3 years and still need a massive upgrade to the brakes and suspension.
Brakes are totally stock and now struggling like hell with the power and the discs which are the originals are about 70-80% worn so they'll be going soon. Going to get Vagbramtechnic grooved discs all round with new braided lines and performance pads.
For the suspension it's currently running on AP coilovers but really want to add front and fear H&R ARBs, a whiteline anti lift kit and adjustable droplinks and new bushes all round. So yeah probably still need to chuck another £2-3k at it to get all than done and then it would be track day worthy.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention - the DV+ isn't recommended by R-Tech, a standard brand new rev G diverter valve is preferred. I had a DV+ on mine and was causing me all sorts of issues cos the piston kept sticking so I'd get rid and go back to Rev G personally and just replace it from time to time if needed.
Lol yeah money money money
As for your brakes m8 just food for thought . When covid began Mike bushel was delivering for dpd and I was about to spend out on a upgraded disks and pads and he told me that go basic with the disks and go all out on a decent set of pads as the drill and Grove discs really don't make alot of difference except wearing your pads down.
He did tell me a few sets of pads to get but I didn't write it down and I forgot what he said disastrous lol
Jus letting you know m8 what I was told
 

Urallmine

Registered User
Lol yeah money money money
As for your brakes m8 just food for thought . When covid began Mike bushel was delivering for dpd and I was about to spend out on a upgraded disks and pads and he told me that go basic with the disks and go all out on a decent set of pads as the drill and Grove discs really don't make alot of difference except wearing your pads down.
He did tell me a few sets of pads to get but I didn't write it down and I forgot what he said disastrous lol
Jus letting you know m8 what I was toldtForgot to mention he is/was a touring car racing driver
 

Urallmine

Registered User
Ah yeah good shout Samuel, I forgot Stage2 is often doesn't require the HPFP and FPRV. But yeah as said above, you definitely want to get the intercooler alongside all this if going to this level as it's a huge increase in torque over Stage2 alone.
As I am going to stage 2+ I have bought a

LOBA Motorsport HP20 High Pressure Fuel Pump for VAG 2.0TFSI EA113 – 2010200​

Hopefully this a good one
 

phateuk

Registered User
Yeah that's a good HPFP. More than sufficient for Stage2+ and would be good for Stage3 (big turbo) with supporting mods i.e. LPFP and 155/165bar FPRV over the 136bar RS4 one used for Stage2+, plus injectors, if you ever wanted to go that far
 

samuelh_888

Registered User
Loba is very good, that’s what I have too.
There has been a bit of noise recently on Facebook about the Loba HPFP but I’ve not had any issues. I’ve deleted Facebook so the noise has stopped!
 

Urallmine

Registered User
Hey mate. So Stage2 and Stage2+ are essentially the same except the + usually means intercooler on top which given the amount of cash required to get to Stage2 alone, the few hundred quid extra to get the intercooler on for all the extra power and torque is worth it. Most people recommend going straight from stock to Stage2+ which is what I did, currently running at 380bhp and 421 lb/ft torque with DSG.

Stage2 Minimum Spec:
- Intake/induction kit, preferably cold air induction.
- TBE exhaust or downpipe at minimum, sport or race cat recommended (or decat, needs map)
- High Pressure Fuel Pump (or Auto-Tech internals) with 136bar RSV Fuel Pressure Return Valve
- Miller's Nanodrive 5w40 NT+ Oil
- 97-99 RON Fuel - Shell vPower, BP Ultimate or Tesco Momentum. 99 is recommended.

Optional but recommended extra include:

- Stage2 Airtec/Wagner Front Mounted Intercooler (optional, but is the main difference between Stage2 (upto 340bhp) and Stage2+ (upto 380/90 bhp and alot more torque)
- Iridium NGK BKR7EIX Spark Plugs
- Injector Service and Walnut Blast / Decoke
- Clutch/DMF upgrade if manual or DSG Remap
- Brakes, Suspension upgrades
- Runner Flap Delete mod - Needs to be mapped in to avoid issues with cold start but improves throttle response significantly and eliminates the risk of it failing and killing your engine.
- New coilpacks. Old ones will often fail quickly once remapped to Stage2 or higher and you can get nice red R8 ones if that takes your fancy.

On top of this I've also got:
Bar-Tek Turbo Inlet Pipe
Bar-Tek Turbo Outlet Pipe
Bar-Tek Turbo Muffler delete.

These don't add more power but do massively improve the turbo spool up and down, throttle response and let off some excellent turbo flutter.

Obviously before you get any of the above done you should ensure:
- all items on the preventative maintenance thread is done, especially the engine timing belt and water pump, DSG service, oil pickup pipe and the dipstick and PCV if needed.
- make sure you've got no vacuum/boost leaks or error codes.
- thorough service especially new oil and fuel filters and a clean sump (especially if you've not replaced the dipstick as it'll likely have little pieces of plastic in it and you don't want one of them blocking your oil pickup pipe).

For mapping you want R-Tech in Nuneaton just outside Birmingham. They are #1 in the country for mapping these cars and people go there from far and wide for a reason. Well worth the trip.

They have alot of info on their tuning and remaps here:



Their website does appear to be down at the moment though but check back later.
Hi m8 sorry to bother you again but I can't se to find 136bar RSV Fuel Pressure Return Valve I found this but I don't think its the right 1

Audi RS4 Fuel Return Valve - 079 130 757​

Cheers in advance
 

prt57

Registered User
I’d recommend AKS tuning for your parts, always genuine items, no need to worry about copies.
I have a Loba pump and no problems so far. Don’t forget to change the cam follower when you change the pump. The torque on the 3 bolts holding the pump on is 10Nm. Do not overtighten.
I also have a DV+, once again no problems. I lubricated the piston etc thoroughly with engine oil on installation.
min cold weather you can get away without an uprated intercooler but may suffer a bit in the summer at stage 2+. I have the Wagner, pricey but there is very little pressure drop across the core which is good.
 

Urallmine

Registered User
This is the one you want


You can get it from other places like AwesomeGTI but just make sure it's a legit one, not some **** off ebay
Ok cheers for that m8 just to bend your ear on the airtec intercooler I've been told that it's not a straight forward fit replacing the original
This is the one I got coming
Airtec Stage 2 Intercooler Upgrade for 2.0TFSI/2.0TSI Engines
 

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phateuk

Registered User
Yeah that's the one I've got, minus the red writing. I wouldn't know about fiting tbh, I got my local German specialist to fit it alongside a bunch of other stuff, turbo inlet pipe and some other bits including a major service, as I wanted them to pressure test the entire system with the intercooler fitted as I suspected I had a couple of minor leaks and also a coolant leak issue.

There are plenty of guides on this forum on fitting the intercooler but I know it's a pain of a job. You need to take the whole front bumper off for starters - which I've done to be fair when doing my honeycomb grill and that's not too bad, but I believe you also need to remove the radiator and rad fans when putting the new intercooler on and also slightly modify one some part of the subframe or chassis to make it fit, my garage did all this but I've seen people mention it before so do your research before attempting to do all this as it's a good few hours and you'll need a fair amount of tools.. or just pay a man like I did lol
 

Boydie

S3 8V DSG
VCDS Map User
I loved my old 8P 2+ wish I knew where it was now!

Sold it in 2014 with 87k miles, I believe the following year it got another clutch at 100k miles, then I dont know :( probably dead, so much time and money put into that car over 5 years :(
 

Urallmine

Registered User
Yeah that's the one I've got, minus the red writing. I wouldn't know about fiting tbh, I got my local German specialist to fit it alongside a bunch of other stuff, turbo inlet pipe and some other bits including a major service, as I wanted them to pressure test the entire system with the intercooler fitted as I suspected I had a couple of minor leaks and also a coolant leak issue.

There are plenty of guides on this forum on fitting the intercooler but I know it's a pain of a job. You need to take the whole front bumper off for starters - which I've done to be fair when doing my honeycomb grill and that's not too bad, but I believe you also need to remove the radiator and rad fans when putting the new intercooler on and also slightly modify one some part of the subframe or chassis to make it fit, my garage did all this but I've seen people mention it before so do your research before attempting to do all this as it's a good few hours and you'll need a fair amount of tools.. or just pay a man like I did lol
Yeah that's the plan I will strip my bumper off and I got an audi volkswagon specialist to do the rest lol
 

samuelh_888

Registered User
Ok cheers for that m8 just to bend your ear on the airtec intercooler I've been told that it's not a straight forward fit replacing the original
This is the one I got coming
Airtec Stage 2 Intercooler Upgrade for 2.0TFSI/2.0TSI Engines
The Airtec is a straight forward fit, radiator and fans out, no cutting like a welly cooler. Airtec is a good choice.
 

Urallmine

Registered User
Ah nice one Samuel, I wasn't sure
Will post my readings when all done
Very doubtful it will where you suggested m8 as ATM I am banned for driving a little tooooo fast ( I NEED TO GROW UP REALLY) lol
So I have a friend running it around back and forth to the garage
Then he will have to pop it to the tuners that are close to me for the stage 2 + map
Got 6 months left until I can drive my baby again lol
 

prt57

Registered User
Just to clarify, the coolant radiator and fans are not removed when fitting an intercooler. The air con rad does need to be moved to the side to allow intercooler replacement.
Everything does need to be supported carefully as the crash bar and rad pack support does need to be removed.
 
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