Stage 2 + questions

KillianKC

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I am currently running a standard map and just building up the hardware for a stage 2 + when funds allow. So far I have accumulated a full milltek exhaust system (fitted)
A forge recirculating dump valve (fitted)
A revo intake and a loba hpfp
Should I wait until the day of the map to fit the loba (or is it safe to run on a standard map)
do I need to change the cam follower? (car has done 47k miles)
will I have any fuel trim issues with the revo on a standard map
how long will my standard clutch last once its mapped
is a pcv delete essential?
Apart from an intercooler (and bigger brakes) what do I need
 
Check out many off the build threats as there is heaps off info in them which will help with your question
 
You can fit the Revo now, it won't cause any fuelling issues that the car can't adapt to. As for the cam-follower, if you haven't previously replaced it then absolutely get it changed when the HPFP is fitted. Part numbers are 06D109309C (cam-follower) and 06E127248 (o'ring) - give mjr901 a message on FaceBook messenger and he'll sort the genuine parts.

Re fitting the fuel pump - some posts will mention to fit it when you get the map, saving any unnecessary stress/wear & tear on the engine where other posts have said it's ok to fit now, as the pump will only provide the fuel thats requested.

I've just fitted my Loba in preparation for 2+ but I'm already on Stg2; I'm not sure whether thats applicable or not.

Where are you thinking of getting it mapped? See what others here say, or see if your mapper will fit at the time of mapping.

The PCV delete - it's not essential but does help to remove some the crap that's fed back into the engine. A full PCV delete (front and rear pipes) can be ££.

I'm still running a standard clutch (57k miles) and it's holding pretty well but it's the torque that kills it. In my scenario, between Stg2 & 2+ it's mostly torque thats gained so a tired clutch (maybe not even tired) could fail quite quickly. There is several options for clutch/flywheel combinations available but I'm getting a SPEC flywheel (SV87S) - £308.89 and SPEC Clutch Kit - Stage 2 PLUS (SV873H-2) fitted next week.

I see you raised a post in November about your clutch slipping - if's thats the case then it may not last long at Stg2+. For clutch and fitting budget £1500...

An intercooler isn't technically needed for Stg2+, so maybe put this money to brakes or suspension first.

Other parts - you'll likely require a RS4 fuel pressure return valve (again get from mjr901) and maybe the runner flap delete but speak to your tuner.
 
I would say the std clutch will last about 2 minutes 37 seconds. the cam follower should be changed every 6k miles but once a year might be ok :)
I am sure better qualified people will be along soon.
 
I would say the std clutch will last about 2 minutes 37 seconds. the cam follower should be changed every 6k miles but once a year might be ok :)
I am sure better qualified people will be along soon.
Didn't know that cluches get std so fast:whistle2:
 
I think they do when they have already done 50k miles and are faced with stg2+ :)
 
As said already, get the cam follower changed ASAP.
You should be running Millers Nanodrive 5W 40 oil. Cam followers last much longer with this oil.
Some people fitting the PCV delete suffer from smoking engines and so instead just fit the latest revision of the oem valve.
Depending on your car enguine spec will affect which intercooler that you should choose.
NGK BKR7EIX spark plugs.
Check out RTech for a superb custom tuning job.
 
Some great info here, I'm based in the west midlands, so was intending to use r-tech as they have a lot of good reviews on here, I would be more confident in a custom map
 
So RTech will be mapping your car. At 47K you may like to get your valves decoked and your injectors checked. All this can be done by RTech as part of a mapping package. It is very important that the injectors are working perfectly as a weak mixture can lead to overheating in the combustion chamber and this causes damage to the pistons in the area where the piston rings are located. The decoke is to remove the crud that builds up on the inlet valves due to the design of the TFSI engines. Whilst the manifold is off you can get the RS4 fuel valve fitted very easily. Much more difficult whilst the manifold is in place. At RTech he will tune your can to make use of your exact hardware. The lack of intercooler will affect your final figures.
RTech may suggest that the oem diverter valve revision G is Brewer than the Forge valve.
I am taking my son’s TTS to RTech next week for the decoke and injector clean service. This car is RTech stage 2+ at approx 40,000 miles.
Nikki will not give you the full power map if your clutch is suspect.
The 2 main clutches people seem to fit are either Sachs or Helix. Some people go for Spec also.
If you fancy the Helix, I would recommend AKS tuning near Bedford. Superb customer service if there is a problem.
 
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So RTech will be mapping your car. At 47K you may like to get your valves decoked and your injectors checked. All this can be done by RTech as part of a mapping package. It is very important that the injectors are working perfectly as a weak mixture can lead to overheating in the combustion chamber and this causes damage to the pistons in the area where the piston rings are located. The decoke is to remove the crud that builds up on the inlet valves due to the design of the TFSI engines. Whilst the manifold is off you can get the RS4 fuel valve fitted very easily. Much more difficult whilst the manifold is in place. At RTech he will tune your can to make use of your exact hardware. The lack of intercooler will affect your final figures.
RTech may suggest that the oem diverter valve revision G is Brewer than the Forge valve.
I am taking my son’s TTS to RTech next week for the decoke and injector clean service. This car is RTech stage 2+ at approx 40,000 miles.
Nikki will not give you the full power map if your clutch is suspect.
The 2 main clutches people seem to fit are either Sachs or Helix. Some people go for Spec also.
If you fancy the Helix, I would recommend AKS tuning near Bedford. Superb customer service if there is a problem.
This is great, thanks, I am at a point where I am wondering do I continue to collect the hardware, or do I just suck it up, fit what I have and see how it goes on the rollers.
I will definitely be looking into decoke and injector clean etc. as there isn't much point in putting in the work without making the best of what is there!!
 
I’m looking at getting a s3 soon and after reading this thread I have a few questions,

Does the cam follower really need changing that often? What is it that fails?

And what’s the deal with stage 2+ with a dsg car? What else needs changing?
 
I’m looking at getting a s3 soon and after reading this thread I have a few questions,

Does the cam follower really need changing that often? What is it that fails?

And what’s the deal with stage 2+ with a dsg car? What else needs changing?

The cam follower sits on the end of the inlet camshaft and the plunger from the fuel pump sits in it. If you uprated the fuel pump the plunger pushes the cam follower harder onto the cam shaft accelerating wear and so it is really important to use really good oil like Millers Nanodrive. I have heard of one wearing through in less than 3k miles with cheap oil. I recently checked one on a healthy clean engine using that oil at 6k miles and it was still perfect. That will be checked again at 10K.
If they do wear through, all the bits of metal go into the engine and the camshaft and fuel pump will be ruined. Lots of expense!

At stage 2+ the DSG clutches will slip and so the tcu is mapped to increase the clamping force.
 
Ohhhh okay is the tcu included in the price of the remap then?

If i was getting one it would be my daily doing about 15k a year so the cam follower is a concern.
 
the point about the cam follower is that is just so much cheaper to replace than have it go and take the cam out as well. I have to say its the deciding factor on me staying at stg 1 TBH. the problem is in my experience with these bucket type followers is when they go they can go really quickly because once the case hardening is damaged the cam can pick up and you have problems and you may have checked the thing a couple of hundred miles ago.
I know i am overly cautious but there is a world of difference between a 370bhp S3 and 265bhp daily driver. I will do the downpipe and cat because that is increasing efficiency without really loading anything up but i think Stg1, a 3inch downpipe and a CAI is a good compromise and will give you a 320bhp daily driver.
 
I was intending it to be my daily, but I only do around 8k a year,
i had an m5 previously, so the fuel consumption doesn't bother me overly
 
Ohhhh okay is the tcu included in the price of the remap then?

If i was getting one it would be my daily doing about 15k a year so the cam follower is a concern.

No the tcu map is in addition to the Ecu map.

I would say at 8k miles a year if you have an uprated fuel pump the cam follower would be an annual job providing you are using top quality oil.
There is a roller kit conversion available which is fit and forget but that is lots more cash.
 
I’d be doing 15k a year so I would probably end up doing it every 6 months. Seems like a pain, bit of a poor design.
 
Spoke to r-tech today, so will be booking a slot in April tomorrow (hopefully)
Has anyone run stage 2+ with a forge recirculating dump valve, after todays conversation the likelihood is I will need go go back to the OEM one?!
 
RTech like the oem valve revision G.
Not a fit and forget solution but whilst they are working they do not leak boost. Another popular forum is finding problems with the latest version of the GFB DV+. This was the favourite.
 
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I ran stage2+ hardware for ages no problems until i got mapped on tuesday. The dsg wont defo slip bit if it does then as above, it does need mapping to increase clamping force.
 
Well its booked for the 19th April, with injector clean and cam follower replacement included, so its going to feel like a long two months!! I'm going to look into what I can do with the forge DV, however i will run stock on the day, if I can sort it with correct spring selection afterwards I will do.

RTech like the oem valve revision G.
Not a fit and forget solution but whilst they are working they do not leak boost. Another popular forum is finding problems with the latest version of the GFB DV+. This was the favourite.
 

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