Joshua Ward

Registered User
Hi all,

Just a quick question, im thinking of going for a stage 1 remap from REVO on my 2011 Audi s3. it has done 78500 miles and has met all of its service intervals either on the dot or earlier, never had any issues with the engine as of yet will it be able to handle stage 1, have got rev D PCV and ordered the Rubber diaphragm DV (cant remember the revision). is there anything i should get checked or do before i go for it?


thanks in advance.
 

Forecast.bucket.s

Registered User
Make sure the cam follower has been changed .

Serviced with 5w40 millers

Also ensure where ever you go does a smoke test and pressure test and all the normal engine diagnostics making sure there’s no leaks or misfires.

I’d recommend a stage1 from R Tech

Read below link for more tips:

http://r-techperformance.co.uk/2-0-tfsi-stage-1-guide/

If you can stretch and get the intake upgraded that will help get better results




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

prt57

Registered User
As above with the recommendations. If you can't get to RTech, I would suggest an APR map rather than a Revo as a generic map. I understand that the map development carried on for longer at APR.
At that mileage, many people suggest an inlet and injector clean/refurbishment. A dodgy injector can be the cause of piston failure. Again, RTech can provide that service. There is a combined clean and remap service at a discounted price.
NGK - BKR7EIX are the plugs of choice. The PCV valve would benefit from being the latest revision with I think ends in R on the part number. The diverter valve you have bought ends in G.
If you have an orange dipstick, change it for the latest yellow one as the orange ones disintegrate and the bits fall into the sump.
Be aware that this is a slippery slope and after experiencing your remap you'll be back for more as these cars have so much to offer - at a cost!
 

Joshua Ward

Registered User
thanks for the replies guys really helped :) i have been looking at the oversized ram air intake and will probably take it to APR and i have heard ofthem before, have a friend with a TTS who's got stage 1 from them. Do they offer the same inlet/ injector clean/refurb as well ?


Thanks in advance.
 

prt57

Registered User
APR is a brand, not a garage. The garage you want to use may offer this service, it would be best to check.
Keep your eye open for when there are discounts on APR software. Often round bank holidays or car events.
 

paddy

Registered User
APR are excellent but you pay for what you get and they are very expensive.
I have APR stg2+ with APR down pipe and cat with a wagner inter cooler and that gave me 381 bhp. so far after 20k miles its been faultless.
However
I did run a generic stg 1 revo for many years on the S3 and it was very good but you will need a SPS switch because the revo will revert back to a base setting if you disconnect the battery. You can then reset with the SPS switch but they are about £120 so factor that in to the cost of the revo when doing comparisons.
TBH if you have a std car then you dont really need a custom map.
As for de coke ? there are many ways of doing this, i had a vapour clean that takes about half an hour and the car runs like a Swiss watch at 80k miles.
 

Daveyonthemove

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
I've just fitted an oversize Ramair kit today, and have my car booked in for stage 1 at R-tech on monday.
I'll let you know how it goes and post up my before and after results.
 

Daveyonthemove

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
I'm in Oxfordshire, but will happily travel for decent service. Having followed them on FB for a few months and read plenty of their posts regarding health checks that revealed a problem that they fixed before even considering a remap, that's reassuring for me that they care about the customer and aren't just taking cash and sending people out the door.
 

Daveyonthemove

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Change of plan.
The Ramair has come off the car and is now for sale. It's added more exhaust noise than i expected, and with a resonator delete its a bit too much for me with an annual mileage of 15k-ish. I found the resonator delete was the sweet spot for me, and the extra noise gives the car a chavvy feel, which nobody wants.

So, sadly I'll be selling the Ramair with only 30 miles of use. Anyone interested should PM me.
 

Joshua Ward

Registered User
Does anyone know anywhere in Worcestershire that will do a de coke I like the sound of that vapour clean process

Thanks
 

paddy

Registered User
Sorry mine was done in Surrey
 

Daveyonthemove

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Change of plan.
The Ramair has come off the car and is now for sale. It's added more exhaust noise than i expected, and with a resonator delete its a bit too much for me with an annual mileage of 15k-ish. I found the resonator delete was the sweet spot for me, and the extra noise gives the car a chavvy feel, which nobody wants.

So, sadly I'll be selling the Ramair with only 30 miles of use. Anyone interested should PM me.

Now Sold.

Does anyone know anywhere in Worcestershire that will do a de coke I like the sound of that vapour clean process

Thanks
Try these guys, I used the Oxfordshire based guy last year and he was brilliant, and the car was noticeably improved.
http://www.enginecarbonclean.com/
 

nluk100

Registered User
Now Sold.
Try these guys, I used the Oxfordshire based guy last year and he was brilliant, and the car was noticeably improved.
http://www.enginecarbonclean.com/

That's nowhere near the same as a proper inlet clean, you really need to take the inlet manifold off and remove the carbon buildup the hard way.

I can recommend this place in Gloucestershire - been using them for over 10 years with various cars incl my S3 for 6+ years.
https://www.turner-race-developments.co.uk
 

Daveyonthemove

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
I'm not claiming it is better than a walnut clean, but it is cheaper and better than doing nothing at all.
Having seen and felt the difference for myself, I can recommend them. But if you want to spend more and get better results, the head being removed will obviously have better results.
 

prt57

Registered User
I'm not claiming it is better than a walnut clean, but it is cheaper and better than doing nothing at all.
Having seen and felt the difference for myself, I can recommend them. But if you want to spend more and get better results, the head being removed will obviously have better results.

With a walnut clean, the head is not taken off, only the inlet manifold as it is the inlet valves that get clogged up.
 

paddy

Registered User
I'm sure walnut clean is very good however its not really practical for most people in the real world. Whatever you choose to do in life someone always has a better way or a better product or a more expensive option. Its usually the flavour of the month like the DV+ that everyone was raving about 18 months ago and everyone is now replacing( not me ) 18 months on.
when i first bought my S3 if you didnt have a Miltek and Revo you were no one. Now its BCS and R-Tech...after a while you just do what you are happy with not what everyone else tells you :)
 

prt57

Registered User
I'm sure walnut clean is very good however its not really practical for most people in the real world. Whatever you choose to do in life someone always has a better way or a better product or a more expensive option. Its usually the flavour of the month like the DV+ that everyone was raving about 18 months ago and everyone is now replacing( not me ) 18 months on.
when i first bought my S3 if you didnt have a Miltek and Revo you were no one. Now its BCS and R-Tech...after a while you just do what you are happy with not what everyone else tells you :)

My comments are always based on my own experiences and not just someone else’s regurgitated thoughts.
Regarding your DV+, it would be worth checking the little orange O ring on the black piston. We have had 2 split. Your dealer should be able to get a later brown/black version that is more robust if yours is still the original.
 

Joshua Ward

Registered User
Has anyone got any advice on removing the original air box mounting screws in the back of the engine ?


Thanks in advance
 

prt57

Registered User
First of all you need to get under the heat shield and undo the 10mm nut locking the mounts in place. Then you need a deep 21mm socket from memory to undo the mounts.
 
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