Silver Project Tie Bars?

I stumbled across these in a weight reduction thread on the TT forum. The owner made these himself and clearly has some experience and knowledge in engineering and fabrication.

He utilised T45 steel tube and plate, 12.9 grade threaded steel rod, 'fish mouthed' the ends to increase the welded area, as well as drilling and 'rose welding' the holes for the same reason.

Prior to fabrication of the hub end, fish mouthed and drilled as you can see:
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The fella made these non adjustable on the car, so had to be set up prior to fitting, using spacers on the threaded rod, which is another great idea as when tight, the shim will take some torque off the thread itself, not that it needs it being high tensile 12.9 steel, good for 200,000psi I think.

I think they are a great design, lots of details, gussets on the 'fork' at the hub. And I think despite the awkwardness of using spacers to adjust them, it could be altered on the car by undoing the hub end, removing the 'fork' and fitting relevant spacers, I don't think this is too bad a solution, as once setup, the results are permanent and rarely altered anyway.

Nice but bush ends are still just butt welded onto tubes? Seen this joint cracked on a customer car also in this location.
Nice skills from that guy
 
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Nice but bush ends are still just butt welded onto tubes? Seen this joint cracked on a customer car also in this location.
Nice skills from that guy
I agree that seems to be overlooked by all the manufacturers, seems there isn't much that can be done with that end.
Do you think if the bush ends were slotted onto the tubes it would be better? Would maybe need custom bushes for that
 
I agree that seems to be overlooked by all the manufacturers, seems there isn't much that can be done with that end.
Do you think if the bush ends were slotted onto the tubes it would be better? Would maybe need custom bushes for that

I assumed one of ideas behind Forge using square section bar was to help increase the surface area of the butting over spherical tube

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If your car has the original rose joint rear bushes if they are Ok and not worn or rusted solid I would keep them.
 
i dont think they are rusted solid yet. but i live close to the sea which is rusting everything else.

the car is 2001 and done 210k miles, so wanted to freshen up all the suspension and bushes.
 
I'm bringing this topic back because I think people have now some experience on different trailing arms.
My nephew noticed that my car trail arm has been broken. Some idiot had welded it to cover the breaking(old owner who seriously lied to me about everything)
I have quite lot camber on my rears even I have only 20mm lowering eibach kit.

So have the silver project arms lasted? has cookbots(not avaible at moment)?

I also noticed that many people assemble the rear end wrong. Audi way to install is to leave all bolts loose, then lower car on its wheels and then torque all bolts. If you torque the bolts when car wheel hangs in air and the lower, it pulls the arms apart and they dont last. I know poor quality is issue too but biggest problem has been wrong assembly.
I talked to Audi mechanic who has 35years of experience and he said that they renewed tons of the arms for warranty, except when he installed them right way, they did.

Any input have they lasted would be great.
 
I got the silver project ones and they work spot on good value for money.
 
Top or bottom mounting, does it really matter? Fitted mine today, no more excesive tyre wear :wink:
 
I went for silver project ones and they look pretty good. I painted them again, used tar/oil mix on threads so they wont basically stick ever as long as there is tar/oil mix.
I got 4 of them and got to drive few miles.
 

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