S3 KWE - my build thread (it will be slow progress...)
- Thread starter samuelh_888
- Start date
Finally got around to swapping my Michelin PS4's from my factory alloys onto my OZ Ultras. This was followed up by a 4-wheel laser alignment after all the sub-frame, bushes and mounts work I've done.
Time to enjoy for a bit and save for whatever comes next...
Time to enjoy for a bit and save for whatever comes next...
She currently spends most of her time parked up in the garage. Last weekend was time for a wash, polish and was (Autofinesse products) which took over 4 hours. I was coming to clay-bar but couldn’t be bothered.
The to-do list hasn’t progressed of recent. I ordered an RTS clutch and SMF but NZ Customs only released part of the order. Everyone is arguing who is responsible so this will drag on. I have the CTS Turbo Outlet Pipe and Inlet pipe in order and some Forge silicon hoses to start smartening up the engine bay.
This week I’ll order a new cam follower, some Millers 5/40 and Rev G dv valve for maintenance.
The to-do list hasn’t progressed of recent. I ordered an RTS clutch and SMF but NZ Customs only released part of the order. Everyone is arguing who is responsible so this will drag on. I have the CTS Turbo Outlet Pipe and Inlet pipe in order and some Forge silicon hoses to start smartening up the engine bay.
This week I’ll order a new cam follower, some Millers 5/40 and Rev G dv valve for maintenance.
Attachments
I’ve been having an issue with my front windows recently, either will work intermittently. This evening I decided to check the loom between the door and the body and found one of the wires was broken; quite a common fault.
To access the wire I didn’t need to remove my door card. To remove the plug, there is a release lever on the far side of this plug - it’s quite fiddly but slides out easily when pressed.
I’ve soldered the wire and refitted but unfortunately the issue still exists. Although this wire needed to be repaired I’m now looking to replace the switches (4F0959851H5PR - window switch for S3 8P Sportback). I don’t think it’s the door module as the passengers side is also playing up, or could it be?
To access the wire I didn’t need to remove my door card. To remove the plug, there is a release lever on the far side of this plug - it’s quite fiddly but slides out easily when pressed.
I’ve soldered the wire and refitted but unfortunately the issue still exists. Although this wire needed to be repaired I’m now looking to replace the switches (4F0959851H5PR - window switch for S3 8P Sportback). I don’t think it’s the door module as the passengers side is also playing up, or could it be?
Resoldered the wires this evening, cleared the codes and so far so good. I can’t imagine the repair will last long but it’s good for now.
Might be worth replacing the window regulators I’ve heard they’re a common fault on the 8P’s, had issues on my old A3 and S3, only every now and again but definitely a common fault
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
At this stage I'm guessing it's not the regulator as the drivers side switch wasn't able to consistently work either front window. After resoldering, it all seems to be working well but if it stops again I'll replace the switches, then look at the regulator or door module. Fingers crossed I've caught it though.
Hopefully mate, cause I’m sure the regulators are expensive
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A couple of weeks ago I completed the annual service. I managed to source Millers 5w/40 Nanodrive here in New Zealand but I've now realised it's only 5/40NT not NT+. It's still a triple ester based product but for the 1,800 miles I drive per year I can't see it causing any issues. Normally I get the oil sent out from Opie but I was able to source locally but it was expensive - $170NZ for 5l (about £85), nearly twice the price I'd pay back in the UK. I also fitted a genuine oil filter and Hengst pollen filter - the pollen filter I removed was stamped 2014 and absolutely filthy!
Resetting the Service Indicator via VCDS was a ball-ache via the SRI reset process. After some Googling it appears that the reset doesn't work for >MY10'ish 8P's, you need to reset 3 different settings individually. I tried pulling the odometer stalk on the right hand side of the dash, this will display service information but won't do the reset. It's all sorted now thankfully.
I'll check the DV this weekend but that too has c1,800 miles on it so should be fine.
I didn't replace the cam-follower as I'm going to do the tsi roller conversion. This conversion replaces but the follower with a similar looking bucket but it has a roller/wheel in it - instead of the cam-lobe pushing the cam-follower (activating the HPFP), the cam-lobe will now 'roll' around the follower, activating the HPFP. The benefit of this upgrade is not only does it remove the dickie cam-follower design Audi implemented, the roller never needs to be changed. I believe it there's a bit of a rattle but I can live with this.
From my previous posts, it's well documented that I've been having issues with the Spec clutch and SMF I had fitted. It's never been right and no matter how much adjustment, changing the selectors, bushes etc I decided to get the RTS and SMF. Although I ordered several months ago, NZ Customs misplaced part of the kit however I am now in receipt of everything I need, including an OEM Sachs CSC. This will be fitted over the Christmas break.
As the car will be up on the hoist when I'm doing the clutch, I'll also be replacing the front ST-X coilover spring perch (the piece the spring sits on, that you wind up/down). Those of you who have ST coilovers, the part number is ST65245082 - it's a composite ring that actually perishes over time. It's not a safety hazard as within it, is the alloy platform that the coil sits on. But when it starts to perish you can't adjust the height as the coilover wrench can't catch.
And finally... my BCS WRC mid-section has just arrived! No photos of this yet but I'll be fitting it this weekend - I'm quite looking forward to getting this on - I had the valve wired open for some time but it wasn't what I was after. This should hopefully give a little bit of noise while not being ASBO when driving in the neighbourhood...
I'll provide some updates as I fit all these items.
Resetting the Service Indicator via VCDS was a ball-ache via the SRI reset process. After some Googling it appears that the reset doesn't work for >MY10'ish 8P's, you need to reset 3 different settings individually. I tried pulling the odometer stalk on the right hand side of the dash, this will display service information but won't do the reset. It's all sorted now thankfully.
I'll check the DV this weekend but that too has c1,800 miles on it so should be fine.
I didn't replace the cam-follower as I'm going to do the tsi roller conversion. This conversion replaces but the follower with a similar looking bucket but it has a roller/wheel in it - instead of the cam-lobe pushing the cam-follower (activating the HPFP), the cam-lobe will now 'roll' around the follower, activating the HPFP. The benefit of this upgrade is not only does it remove the dickie cam-follower design Audi implemented, the roller never needs to be changed. I believe it there's a bit of a rattle but I can live with this.
From my previous posts, it's well documented that I've been having issues with the Spec clutch and SMF I had fitted. It's never been right and no matter how much adjustment, changing the selectors, bushes etc I decided to get the RTS and SMF. Although I ordered several months ago, NZ Customs misplaced part of the kit however I am now in receipt of everything I need, including an OEM Sachs CSC. This will be fitted over the Christmas break.
As the car will be up on the hoist when I'm doing the clutch, I'll also be replacing the front ST-X coilover spring perch (the piece the spring sits on, that you wind up/down). Those of you who have ST coilovers, the part number is ST65245082 - it's a composite ring that actually perishes over time. It's not a safety hazard as within it, is the alloy platform that the coil sits on. But when it starts to perish you can't adjust the height as the coilover wrench can't catch.
And finally... my BCS WRC mid-section has just arrived! No photos of this yet but I'll be fitting it this weekend - I'm quite looking forward to getting this on - I had the valve wired open for some time but it wasn't what I was after. This should hopefully give a little bit of noise while not being ASBO when driving in the neighbourhood...
I'll provide some updates as I fit all these items.
Last edited:
Fitted the BCS WRC pipe today - a straight forward fit however it needs a little adjustment as the flange before the backbox is knocking on the rear arm.
Sound wise, at idle and crushing there is no difference in sound however under boost it’s a wider, deeper bark that sounds very nice!
Sound wise, at idle and crushing there is no difference in sound however under boost it’s a wider, deeper bark that sounds very nice!
Over the weekend I thought we'd tackle the TSI roller conversion - replacing the cam-follower set-up with the roller version from the VW TSI engine. In total it took about 1.5 hrs and wasn't as difficult as I was expecting.
First up was to remove the HPFP and the cam-chain cover. The only niggle I had with this part of the process, was getting the cam cover past the water hard-pipe. I didn't want to remove the water pipe as I didn't want to fanny about with anti-freeze and that. I removed the n205 (controls cam adjustment) which gave me the little extra room I needed.
I suspect the process so far would be a fairly typical of the process you'd follow when changing the cam-chain.
Below is a comparison of the TFSI (top) and the TSI (bottom) cam-chain cover. Y0u can see the machining to the TSI housing through the vacuum pump hole. This machining is to allow for the HPFP adapter.
The following image shows the difference between the TFSI housing (left) and the TSI housing (right), where the HPFP is fitted. The TSI conversion is supplied with a machined sleeve that reduces the diameter of the hpfp cavity and to hold the roller-bucket (VAG pt# 06H109311B)
Fitting the new case was simply the reverse of the removal.
The cam-chain case is located (against the head) by locating dowels - I took my time here to ensure the gasket (pt# 06D103121B) was seated correctly on the dowels before tightening everything up. I then refitted the vacuum pump and n205 sensor.
When refitting the hpfp , two 0'rings needed to be replaced (pt# WHT005184). These are the same as you'd use when replacing your cam-follower but in this instance I needed 2, one for the hpfp and one for the adapter/sleeve.
You can see from the image below the adapter/sleeve between the hpfp and cam-chain case.
The sleeve actually moves the fuel pump out by about 12mm - this made it difficult to refit the fuel line into the fuel pump as I didn't want to bend or break anything but loosening the fuel pump gave me the play needed to fit and tighten the fuel line. Additionally, thankfully the TTS engine cover doesn't come into contact with the sensor on the top of hpfp - it's pretty close though.
On start-up there was a few rattles but overall it's no louder than I was expecting and after getting some mile's on the clock no check lights or codes have been thrown so I assume it's all good.
First up was to remove the HPFP and the cam-chain cover. The only niggle I had with this part of the process, was getting the cam cover past the water hard-pipe. I didn't want to remove the water pipe as I didn't want to fanny about with anti-freeze and that. I removed the n205 (controls cam adjustment) which gave me the little extra room I needed.
I suspect the process so far would be a fairly typical of the process you'd follow when changing the cam-chain.
Below is a comparison of the TFSI (top) and the TSI (bottom) cam-chain cover. Y0u can see the machining to the TSI housing through the vacuum pump hole. This machining is to allow for the HPFP adapter.
The following image shows the difference between the TFSI housing (left) and the TSI housing (right), where the HPFP is fitted. The TSI conversion is supplied with a machined sleeve that reduces the diameter of the hpfp cavity and to hold the roller-bucket (VAG pt# 06H109311B)
Fitting the new case was simply the reverse of the removal.
The cam-chain case is located (against the head) by locating dowels - I took my time here to ensure the gasket (pt# 06D103121B) was seated correctly on the dowels before tightening everything up. I then refitted the vacuum pump and n205 sensor.
When refitting the hpfp , two 0'rings needed to be replaced (pt# WHT005184). These are the same as you'd use when replacing your cam-follower but in this instance I needed 2, one for the hpfp and one for the adapter/sleeve.
You can see from the image below the adapter/sleeve between the hpfp and cam-chain case.
The sleeve actually moves the fuel pump out by about 12mm - this made it difficult to refit the fuel line into the fuel pump as I didn't want to bend or break anything but loosening the fuel pump gave me the play needed to fit and tighten the fuel line. Additionally, thankfully the TTS engine cover doesn't come into contact with the sensor on the top of hpfp - it's pretty close though.
On start-up there was a few rattles but overall it's no louder than I was expecting and after getting some mile's on the clock no check lights or codes have been thrown so I assume it's all good.
The roller type bearing ticks on my E888 engine when hot usually. I asked AMD if it was worth renewing when I had the cam chain done but they say it’s quite normal for the ticking. I guess they know best so I’ve left it alone.
The sleeve goes into the hole where the hpfp would sit. The diameter of the tsi is larger so the sleeve reduces this size, for the hpfp to sit in.
https://www.akstuning.co.uk/perform...ag-tfsi-cam-foller-tsi-roller-conversion.html
Hi. I'd like to co this upgrade. I was really surprised to find an s3 doesn't have them as standard.
Is it just a case of removing the old one, unplugging it, plugging the new one in and fitting it back in, or is there more to it?
Thanks in advance.
Matt
Its just remove and plug in the new one. I couldn't believe this wasnt std as it was in my nearly 17 year old 3.2 A3 but thats audi for you, i just activated the fog lights with the steering on mine. Wish i could do the TPMs as well but my brain doesnt stretch to that 
Great. Just picked up a good used front and back off ebay for £50 for the pair.
have you got any videos of this as im considering a similat setup but cant decide if ishoul go custome or go with bcs as i want normal drivability and asbo via external switch (fob)
Hi @e9_mustii - no videos sorry. I don’t think videos do the system justice and besides, there is plenty on YouTube and even on BCS’s own channel.
As for BCS v custom - depends on what you’re after - BCS have put a lot of R&D into their system and with the WRX it’s very loud on boost but quiet off. A custom system; any exhaust shop could build you a ‘custom’ system but it would have the research, design and knowledge behind it. The cost will be similar to the BCS. Activating the valve via a key fob - na, not for me either!
Just go for a BCS WRX system.
As for BCS v custom - depends on what you’re after - BCS have put a lot of R&D into their system and with the WRX it’s very loud on boost but quiet off. A custom system; any exhaust shop could build you a ‘custom’ system but it would have the research, design and knowledge behind it. The cost will be similar to the BCS. Activating the valve via a key fob - na, not for me either!
Just go for a BCS WRX system.
Was thinking of getting the 3.5"decat from bcs and the rest done my duestech and have a remote control valve put in so when ive got family in the car i can keep it quite regardless of boost and when i want to be lewis hamilton, well you get the point
but a vid would help if you have one or could make one when ever your freeSent from my SM-N976B using Tapatalk
We recently set about replacing the Spec Stg2 clutch and SMF I had in my S3, replacing it with the RTS clutch and SMF. Both are rated at circa 440ftlb but as the RTS SMF is modelled on the factory DMF, (nearly) all the chatter and noise typically associated with a single mass flywheel is removed.
Previous clutch gone:
The following photo is Spec Stg2 clutch I removed. As you can see it’s barely worn in but it was so horrible it had to go. It had about 1600 miles on it; in some respects it’s an expensive mistake but I can’t do much about it now.
As for the RTS clutch - I didn’t get any photos when fitting but I’m currently 300 miles into the run-in period (500 miles) and trying to do as much start/stop as possible. I live 15 miles from town so there is periods of motorway driving. I’m not sure if this impacts the clutch - we’ll wait and see.
However, at this stage the car is a pleasure to drive. It’s quiet, I can select gear and the overrun sound on deceleration has gone. I’ve seen some posts on Facebook recently that people think the RTS is rubbish and it slips following the run-in period. I suspect many of these people are Facebook keyboard warriors who have never tried this clutch nevertheless, there is a part of me hoping this isn’t the case! Again, time will tell.
When we were doing the clutch we noticed that one of my ST-X coilovers was misting at the seal. I’ve contacted KW to see if they can be rekitted so waiting to hear back. If not I’ll look to upgrade but I’m not sure to what at the moment.
Next up is getting the dent removed front the rear drivers side door - some ***** opened his door into my car and left his mark.
Previous clutch gone:
The following photo is Spec Stg2 clutch I removed. As you can see it’s barely worn in but it was so horrible it had to go. It had about 1600 miles on it; in some respects it’s an expensive mistake but I can’t do much about it now.
As for the RTS clutch - I didn’t get any photos when fitting but I’m currently 300 miles into the run-in period (500 miles) and trying to do as much start/stop as possible. I live 15 miles from town so there is periods of motorway driving. I’m not sure if this impacts the clutch - we’ll wait and see.
However, at this stage the car is a pleasure to drive. It’s quiet, I can select gear and the overrun sound on deceleration has gone. I’ve seen some posts on Facebook recently that people think the RTS is rubbish and it slips following the run-in period. I suspect many of these people are Facebook keyboard warriors who have never tried this clutch nevertheless, there is a part of me hoping this isn’t the case! Again, time will tell.
When we were doing the clutch we noticed that one of my ST-X coilovers was misting at the seal. I’ve contacted KW to see if they can be rekitted so waiting to hear back. If not I’ll look to upgrade but I’m not sure to what at the moment.
Next up is getting the dent removed front the rear drivers side door - some ***** opened his door into my car and left his mark.
It’s been a while since I posted - not a great amount has been happening. We’ve been in Covid-19 Level 4 Lockdown since mid March, confined to our homes. We’re only allowed to travel for essential reasons such as groceries - every other shop is closed.
So I’m offering to get the groceries as it’s giving me the chance to bed the RTS clutch in.
The car is so nice to drive now however, 760 miles into the bedding process I have the car a hard run and there was some clutch slip. RTS have asked me to go easy for a couple hundred more miles which I will do. I am however hoping the organic properties of the clutch plate wear in properly and this slipping isn’t a sign of things to come.
Other than that, starting to work on a new wish-list of stuff to do. Mostly cosmetic and some parts upgrades as I won’t be able to get the map tweaked here, so no performance upgrades at this stage.
So I’m offering to get the groceries as it’s giving me the chance to bed the RTS clutch in.
The car is so nice to drive now however, 760 miles into the bedding process I have the car a hard run and there was some clutch slip. RTS have asked me to go easy for a couple hundred more miles which I will do. I am however hoping the organic properties of the clutch plate wear in properly and this slipping isn’t a sign of things to come.
Other than that, starting to work on a new wish-list of stuff to do. Mostly cosmetic and some parts upgrades as I won’t be able to get the map tweaked here, so no performance upgrades at this stage.
It’s the middle of winter here (in New Zealand) so I haven’t been driving the car too much. I have 900 miles on the RTS clutch now and although it’s very nice to drive, there is still a small amount of slip if driven hard. It’s definitely improved from 700’ish miles but I’ll go easy until 1100miles and then see how it is.
Today I finally got around to fitting the clutch press to start bypass loom which has been sitting for nearly 3 years - thanks to @george_seamons for resending me the instructions, it was very straight forward once I’d located the clutch switch.
Photo is before I’d fitted the loom as it’s easier to see the switch and a better photo.
I ordered the Wasa Motorsport balance shaft delete freewheel which is scheduled to arrive this week so I’ll get that fitted before the winter is out. At the same time I’ll do the oil pickup and the cam chain tensioner. This should set the car up nicely for the summer.
Today I finally got around to fitting the clutch press to start bypass loom which has been sitting for nearly 3 years - thanks to @george_seamons for resending me the instructions, it was very straight forward once I’d located the clutch switch.
Photo is before I’d fitted the loom as it’s easier to see the switch and a better photo.
I ordered the Wasa Motorsport balance shaft delete freewheel which is scheduled to arrive this week so I’ll get that fitted before the winter is out. At the same time I’ll do the oil pickup and the cam chain tensioner. This should set the car up nicely for the summer.
I'm 1100 miles into the RTS clutch and really happy with it. Although it was slipping at 700'ish miles, now it's bedded in it is holding up really well - no slip and still a pleasant gear change. I know the RTS kit isn't to everyones liking (a lot of negative chat on Facebook groups), but compared to the Spec Stg2, this is perfect.
Last weekend I set about fitting the Wasa balance shaft delete freewheel, a free wheeling sprocket that deactivates the balance shaft between the bottom end and the sump. On higher mileage, tuned engines there have been instances of the balance shaft seizing typically requiring a new engine. For me, fitting the Wasa freewheel was a preventative maintenance measure - those of you who've read my thread will recall I had the balance shaft assembly replaced under Audi warranty in 2017 (4k miles ago!) so I'd probably be ok, nevertheless it's done now and it was also an excuse to do something to the car.
In preparation for fitting the Wasa freewheel and as the sump needs to come off, I took the opportunity of replacing the oil pickup and the oil pump tensioner. The following parts were ordered:
- 06B115130C - Oil Pump Tensioner
- 06F115251A - Oil Pickup Pipe
- N0282222 - Oil Pickup O'ring
- N90365901 - Oil Pump Sprocket Bolt
- N06D115562 - Oil Filter
- N90813202 - Sump Plug
- 06D115562 - Oil Return Gasket (the oil return from the turbo to the sump)
For oil, I wanted to stick with an ester based 5w/40. I can't get Millers here in New Zealand but Red Line is readily available so I thought I'd give it a try.
We gave the sump a good clean while it was off. The silicone sealant was crumbling, sitting in the bottom of the sump and with small pieces in the oil pickup. I credit this to the quality of Audi Master Technicians - this shouldn't happen after less than 4k miles.
The balance shafts (within the alloy case) have a counterweight at the end, weighing approx 19 pounds. It's a fair amount of mass needing to be turned and these shafts can spin at up to 16,000rpm. Through deactivating the balance shafts, I have notices the car revs freer but can't say I've notices any more power. There is a small amount of vibration but nothing of concern.
To loosen the oil pump chain, we removed the oil pump sprocket but also the tensioner. I thought it would be worth replacing the tensioner while the cover was off again, as a precautionary measure.
The Wasa freewheel next to the balance shaft sprocket. There is a couple of alternative manufacturers of the freewheel however Wasa are the inventors and the original.
For fitting, the freewheel was torqued to 50NM and the oil pump sprocket torqued to 20nm+90deg.
A new oil pickup (and o'ring) was fitted before we refitted the sump using Wurth gasket sealant.
Once everything the back together we filled with just over 5l of Red Line High-Performance 5w/4o ester based oil.
With summer approaching I'll get the car booked into the bodyshop for a couple of small touch-ups and then I may look at some cosmetic updates such as steering wheel recover.
Last weekend I set about fitting the Wasa balance shaft delete freewheel, a free wheeling sprocket that deactivates the balance shaft between the bottom end and the sump. On higher mileage, tuned engines there have been instances of the balance shaft seizing typically requiring a new engine. For me, fitting the Wasa freewheel was a preventative maintenance measure - those of you who've read my thread will recall I had the balance shaft assembly replaced under Audi warranty in 2017 (4k miles ago!) so I'd probably be ok, nevertheless it's done now and it was also an excuse to do something to the car.
In preparation for fitting the Wasa freewheel and as the sump needs to come off, I took the opportunity of replacing the oil pickup and the oil pump tensioner. The following parts were ordered:
- 06B115130C - Oil Pump Tensioner
- 06F115251A - Oil Pickup Pipe
- N0282222 - Oil Pickup O'ring
- N90365901 - Oil Pump Sprocket Bolt
- N06D115562 - Oil Filter
- N90813202 - Sump Plug
- 06D115562 - Oil Return Gasket (the oil return from the turbo to the sump)
For oil, I wanted to stick with an ester based 5w/40. I can't get Millers here in New Zealand but Red Line is readily available so I thought I'd give it a try.
We gave the sump a good clean while it was off. The silicone sealant was crumbling, sitting in the bottom of the sump and with small pieces in the oil pickup. I credit this to the quality of Audi Master Technicians - this shouldn't happen after less than 4k miles.
The balance shafts (within the alloy case) have a counterweight at the end, weighing approx 19 pounds. It's a fair amount of mass needing to be turned and these shafts can spin at up to 16,000rpm. Through deactivating the balance shafts, I have notices the car revs freer but can't say I've notices any more power. There is a small amount of vibration but nothing of concern.
To loosen the oil pump chain, we removed the oil pump sprocket but also the tensioner. I thought it would be worth replacing the tensioner while the cover was off again, as a precautionary measure.
The Wasa freewheel next to the balance shaft sprocket. There is a couple of alternative manufacturers of the freewheel however Wasa are the inventors and the original.
For fitting, the freewheel was torqued to 50NM and the oil pump sprocket torqued to 20nm+90deg.
A new oil pickup (and o'ring) was fitted before we refitted the sump using Wurth gasket sealant.
Once everything the back together we filled with just over 5l of Red Line High-Performance 5w/4o ester based oil.
With summer approaching I'll get the car booked into the bodyshop for a couple of small touch-ups and then I may look at some cosmetic updates such as steering wheel recover.
The S3 is having to share my time with my F3, as we come into summer!
Back to the top
It’s mid-winter here so my S3 is living it quiet in the garage.
Someone opened their car door against my car, leaving a dent on the drivers door, right over the body line with paint removed to metal. I have it booked in for a repair and some other touch-ups and while it’s in I’m thinking of getting the Oz Ultraleggeras painted in a matt gunmetal while it’s in.
Mod wise, it’s been nearly one year since I’ve done any mods. Does anyone have any feedback on the Turbosmart Kompact DV valve?
It’s mid-winter here so my S3 is living it quiet in the garage.
Someone opened their car door against my car, leaving a dent on the drivers door, right over the body line with paint removed to metal. I have it booked in for a repair and some other touch-ups and while it’s in I’m thinking of getting the Oz Ultraleggeras painted in a matt gunmetal while it’s in.
Mod wise, it’s been nearly one year since I’ve done any mods. Does anyone have any feedback on the Turbosmart Kompact DV valve?
I thought I’d add an update to my post from 2017 - the buzzing at 1800’ish RPM that Audi couldn’t fix (but three parts at the car) - it’s been getting worse recently and more so after a couple of laps at a local circuit. put it on the hoist and there is a heat shield above the drive shaft shielding from the turbo - this was missing a nut. We fastened this and the buzzing and annoying rattle is all gone. It’s amazing how solving small problems make the car fun to drive!
Attachments
After 5 years of ownership, mods, pampering yet only 7,000 miles of driving I’ve sold the S3. It’s time to move on to something more convenient for carrying the family and a car I don’t mind driving or putting miles on (the S3 was a garage queen that was just looked after).
I’m staying in the Audi family moving to an SQ5 - VCDS updates will be all this one gets.
It’s been a pleasure. Bye for now.
I’m staying in the Audi family moving to an SQ5 - VCDS updates will be all this one gets.
It’s been a pleasure. Bye for now.
Sad to hear you av now sold ur S3 but i can fully understand why . Now i am selling my S3 . Its been a blast owning it and have to say i loved following ur posts in ur build and have to say most off my retrofit upgrades where down to you as you had done all the ground work to find out all the part numbers i needed to do those jobs.
Your old Private plate will not be getting sold with the car as i have to say overtime i have grown to like more n more . All the best with new car .
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