S3 KWE - my build thread (it will be slow progress...)

samuelh_888

Registered User
It’s been a month since my last update - Most recent shipping notification is that the container (is still in the boat!) has departed Aussie en-route to New Zealand - 2 weeks to go!

In the mean time car parts are still arriving! I have the Whiteline ALK and 55mm wheel stud conversion kit.

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There is some Millers NT oil (from Opie, international postage) arriving soon so that will go in as soon as the car arrives.

New Zealand has pretty strict rules on car modifications. Unless it’s an exhaust system (no emission standards yet) or lowered springs (still need 100mm clearance) then all modifications need to be certified. It’s not a cheap process either.

So, the idea is to get these parts fitted and get all mods certified at the same time. Then it needs to be VIN’ed for NZ roads. The Certification should stop all noise at the VIN’ing process (hopefully!)
 
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samuelh_888

Registered User
After 9 weeks at sea my S3 has made it to New Zealand! They drove it out of the container while I was there (literally drive it out - after connecting battery, removing tie-downs and removing wheel chocks), started perfectly and looked amazing.

I had a short drive to storage where it will be complied for NZ roads and licensed; with the obligatory stop-off for fuel on the way.

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fernando young

Registered User
congrats!! i hope the wait was worth it
 

samuelh_888

Registered User
It's been nearly 2 months since my previous post - not a great deal has happened but there is some updates worthy of posting!

As I mentioned, we've recently moved to New Zealand and I wasn't about to give up the S3 (too much spent/too much wasted?) so I sent that back. Although we can get the S3 8P here, they are Japanese imports however, there is very few pre-fl 8P's, made for the New Zealand market. Price wise, comparable to the UK (maybe slightly cheaper) however parts are incredibly expensive whether you go to the main dealer or reseller.

Prior to using the S3 here, I needed to go through a Low Volume Vehicle Certification process, essentially certifying each modification made to the car, to ensure it's safe and complies with NZ standards. It's not a cheap process (on the NZ$) as they charge based the job, then a charge for each System inspected - a 'System' for me being:
1 - Suspension System (including ARBs and WALK)
2 - Braking System
3 - Wheels and Tyres
4 - Exhaust - noise and emissions
Following Certification, we need to get the car 'complied' for NZ - this is essentially registering the VIN number on the NZ Transport Association system (aka DVLA) so that the car can be registered and insured.

Before booking the Cert we set about fitting the Whiteline ALK and wheel stud kit - this needs to be certified so no point in fitting it after the process. The ALK was a straight forward fit and after a wheel alignment made the steering feel more responsive - possibly a mental thing; justification for the purchase? but nevertheless the steering feels better.

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Then on to the wheel studs, these are a Bimeec kit, M14 x 1.5 stud, 75mm total length of which 20mm screws into the hub. The nuts are 19mm radius R13, to suit the Oz Alloys.

The rear sets were easy to fit, however with the front we needed to make a small mod to the back side of the rotor - (a late night sms to the UK confirmed what I needed to do - thanks @leshkin)

You'll see on the photo below that there is a lip/separator between the hub thread and the thread that the hex nut screws onto. When sliding the rotor over the stud it wasn't sitting flush against this hub due to this lip, so bevelling out the hole a little on the rear of the rotor allowed this to slide over and sit flush.

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We were then ready for Certification - it's a straight forward process however they did call me out on 2 items.

The first, which I knew would be an issue, was the front brake pads. They were the Yellow Speed Racing pads that came as part of the set, but as there is no part number on these pads that cross-references with a NZ approved pad manufacturer, they needed to be replaced. I didn't bring any replacement pads from the UK even though I knew these would be a fail and getting a replacement pad within New Zealand was impossible but luckly I was able to order a set of Mintex 1144 (MDB1977M1144) from ECP Australia. These were delivered in 5 days at a cost of £104 delivered. I think this is less than half of the cost in the UK.

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The second item in question was my ST-X Coilovers, specifically that they have a polymer coil mount and not alloy as many other sets have. The LVVC people made several calls to KW in the States and after presentation of the TUV documentation applicable to my coilovers, the certification paperwork was submitted. Turn around for getting the cert plate was 5 days.

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With the certification and subsequent compliance/registration dealt with, I decided to treat the S3 to a fluids change. Opie Oils send internationally so my stocks of Millers 5-40 NT can be maintained along with some Motul RBF600 brake fluid. As with all other parts, getting a 5-40 (VW507) oil here is nearly impossible, a 5-30 (VW507) is available but I'm not sure how this would be with the Stg2+ map. Until then, the Millers will be ordered!

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Something worth adding, when the car was mapped to Stg2+ it was mapped on 99Ron. However, in NZ 98 RON was the highest octane rating available at the pump (NZ BP Ultimate). So prior to exporting, I had the S slightly de-tuned to run on 97RON (UK BP Ultimate).

The reason I went to 97 is because I couldn't find 98 in London or the surrounding areas. A mapped car will adjust up an octane, so from 97 to 98 but it wouldn't like dropping a from the mapped 99 to 98.

Ironically, we've had a new entrant into the fuel market here (NPD) that offer 100RON at the pump....


Anyhow, the obligatory photo of my drives...

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fernando young

Registered User
i feel you what you mean about all parts being way more expensive, here in peru i struggle with that a lot.
also, regarding the tune, you'll be fine. it just will run a few hp lower. i have a 98ron tune, but here i cant always find 98 so its either 97 or 98, and the car has been running fine for 3 years like that

i'm glad you got everything for your baby sorted and you can enjoy it on its new home
 

samuelh_888

Registered User
A brief update - after a week or perfect driving (away for work) and the car not missing a beat, the Spec Stg2+ clutch plate has decided to fall apart!

We pulled the box today - I need to see if Spec will replace under warranty or if I’ll go for a completely different setup.

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It was fitted in March and has 1900 miles on it...

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R222cet

Registered User
Great thread and a very smart S3 ! The clutch is disappointing tho as I did make my mind up about getting a spec clutch and a 2+ setup at that. I hope you get it sorted and this is just a 1 off
 

samuelh_888

Registered User
Great thread and a very smart S3 ! The clutch is disappointing tho as I did make my mind up about getting a spec clutch and a 2+ setup at that. I hope you get it sorted and this is just a 1 off

Yeah thanks, so do I.

I’ll call Spec tomorrow - the clutch plate is $280US but I’ll need new bolts to hold the pressure plate on and should replace the thrust bearing too.

I’ll post an update with how I get on. If I was to do it again however I’d go Luk DMF and Helix organic.
 

R222cet

Registered User
Yeah please do id like to see how you get on with them. Isn’t the helix organic clutch suppose to be really heavy tho it’s one of the reasons I’m decided on the spec
 

S.

Save the manuals
A brief update - after a week or perfect driving (away for work) and the car not missing a beat, the Spec Stg2+ clutch plate has decided to fall apart!

We pulled the box today - I need to see if Spec will replace under warranty or if I’ll go for a completely different setup.

View attachment 169776

It was fitted in March and has 1900 miles on it...

View attachment 169777
Wow. That's really a bad luck at 1900 miles.
Hope you'll get it sorted under warranty.
 

samuelh_888

Registered User
I spoke to Spec in Alabama, US about the plate and sent them several photos - after reviewing they have offered a new clutch plate, hydraulic bearing (thrust bearing) and mounting hardware for $99 plus freight to NZ. Not bad considering the cost of a complete new setup so kudos to Spec!

I asked if they'd seen this issue before, the spring collar breaking - they said it's very uncommon on the VAG cars but happens all the time on the new Camaro :tearsofjoy:. It could be down to play in the front bearing or even play where the input shaft sits in the crank.

We've always suspected the front bearing was getting noisy, the noise on overrun and when accelerating so while the box is out I was thinking of getting new bearings but I'll put this on hold for now, we'll refit and see how it goes.

If it transpires that I need to do the bearings, there is a input shaft mod somewhere on this forum that fixes the seating issue - I'll look into this too.
 

R222cet

Registered User
Great news glad your getting it sorted and fair play to spec for sorting you out. When the time comes I’ll probably get one of these
 

S.

Save the manuals
I spoke to Spec in Alabama, US about the plate and sent them several photos - after reviewing they have offered a new clutch plate, hydraulic bearing (thrust bearing) and mounting hardware for $99 plus freight to NZ. Not bad considering the cost of a complete new setup so kudos to Spec!

I asked if they'd seen this issue before, the spring collar breaking - they said it's very uncommon on the VAG cars but happens all the time on the new Camaro :tearsofjoy:. It could be down to play in the front bearing or even play where the input shaft sits in the crank.

We've always suspected the front bearing was getting noisy, the noise on overrun and when accelerating so while the box is out I was thinking of getting new bearings but I'll put this on hold for now, we'll refit and see how it goes.

If it transpires that I need to do the bearings, there is a input shaft mod somewhere on this forum that fixes the seating issue - I'll look into this too.
Glad you got it sorted under warranty.
Great customer service from spec.
The gearbox casing (the part where the bearing sits) is made of chocolate. Bearing develops a play with time and then on the other unsupported end you have excentric rotation causing lots of issues. The thing is that on 02Q gearbox simple shim mod doesn't work as it does on 02M as it's been reported by many.
 

samuelh_888

Registered User
I received the replacement clutch plate from Spec last week, it's all fitted and the S3 is back on the road. It feels like a completely different car.

Previously it would get stuck in 1st or reverse gear (like when parking), the clutch would grab and the pedal would have sometimes good - sometimes bad feel about it. With the new clutch plate and spigot bearing, all of these issues have gone. There is still a bit of gearbox grumble but the gear selection is throughout all gears is great. Incidentally, the thrust bearing we removed appears to be different (in colour and material) to the new bearing Spec provided. Either the Spec item has changed or the OEM bearing wasn't replaced when the clutch was originally fitted (March 18).

I've ordered some Powerflex engine and gearbox mounts and the TyrolSport rigid subframe collar kit to tighten up the front end, I'm looking forward to getting this fitted, wheel tracking sorted, then enjoy the pending NZ Summer.
 
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Niffty9

Guest
Interesting reading on the clutch. My clutch is now slipping and needs replacement.

Have you ever tried to do a hard launch on the uprated spec clutch? I test drove an S3 a few times from Audi and was always disappointed that the factory clutch would spin before the wheels on a dry day, not that this is a concern in the UK at the moment and not that I plan to launch my own car very often but I'd hate to have to submit to a Subaru impreza in a traffic light GP just to save the clutch.
 

paddy

Registered User
You shouldn't really be messing with Subarus, thats a bit like Tyson Fury trying to punch kids coming out of 1st school.
 

samuelh_888

Registered User
Interesting reading on the clutch. My clutch is now slipping and needs replacement.

Have you ever tried to do a hard launch on the uprated spec clutch? I test drove an S3 a few times from Audi and was always disappointed that the factory clutch would spin before the wheels on a dry day, not that this is a concern in the UK at the moment and not that I plan to launch my own car very often but I'd hate to have to submit to a Subaru impreza in a traffic light GP just to save the clutch.

You know, I’ve never tried to launch the car. To be honest it’s not the clutch that worries me, it’s the gearbox and haldex. It would be just my luck one of these would fail.
 
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paddy

Registered User
I tried just once to launch My S3 with DSG and as an engineer it went against everything i ever learned :)
Gave it some revs, you could feel the clutches dragging !! dumped the brake and there was a clang as the drive train slack was taken up, every bearing, UJ, spline, gear, thrust washer, drive shaft, gearbox,clutch, prop shaft haldex and fixing banged against its neighbour...There was a 1-2 second delay as you get with DSG, the car lurched forward and immediately dropped off turbo, bogged down then got a grip and flew off up the road. Tried it a couple more times over the next week with much the same result and shortly after........... the rear diff went...........coincidence ? who knows but my feeling was if you really really hate your car, if you have no sympathy for mechanical parts and if you have a endless supply of surplus cash then launch could be just what you need. It will not get you off the line any quicker but after the initial delay it will bang a shock through the system that letting the clutch out is designed to stop but hey....why not do it with Stg2+ and bang 400bhp through the system that was meant to take 265 ? I mean its only money :)
 

leshkin

Hold my beer...
VCDS Map User
A brief update - after a week or perfect driving (away for work) and the car not missing a beat, the Spec Stg2+ clutch plate has decided to fall apart!

We pulled the box today - I need to see if Spec will replace under warranty or if I’ll go for a completely different setup.

View attachment 169776

It was fitted in March and has 1900 miles on it...

View attachment 169777
That looks nasty, Sam :(

Should've gone with DSG ;)
 

miltybilty

Registered User
I tried just once to launch My S3 with DSG and as an engineer it went against everything i ever learned :)
Gave it some revs, you could feel the clutches dragging !! dumped the brake and there was a clang as the drive train slack was taken up, every bearing, UJ, spline, gear, thrust washer, drive shaft, gearbox,clutch, prop shaft haldex and fixing banged against its neighbour...There was a 1-2 second delay as you get with DSG, the car lurched forward and immediately dropped off turbo, bogged down then got a grip and flew off up the road. Tried it a couple more times over the next week with much the same result and shortly after........... the rear diff went...........coincidence ? who knows but my feeling was if you really really hate your car, if you have no sympathy for mechanical parts and if you have a endless supply of surplus cash then launch could be just what you need. It will not get you off the line any quicker but after the initial delay it will bang a shock through the system that letting the clutch out is designed to stop but hey....why not do it with Stg2+ and bang 400bhp through the system that was meant to take 265 ? I mean its only money :)
Shucks I hate when our cars break, and especially expensive repairs.

But what about @leskin , @paddy ?
He seems to have had no issues launching his 400bhp plus car. Then again he also has a tcu tune. Leskins videos of it launching are awesome.
Just a thought. Maybe bad luck.
Next car I have will have no tune and just the standard res delete .... I need my warranty because cars don't seem able to like with me or maybe it's just lots of km.


Sent from my highchair using Tapacar
 

samuelh_888

Registered User
But what about @leskin , @paddy ?
He seems to have had no issues launching his 400bhp plus car. Then again he also has a tcu tune. Leskins videos of it launching are awesome.
Just a thought. Maybe bad luck.

That wasn’t @leshkin car - his isn’t that quick.
 

paddy

Registered User
Lesh has a Maserati 4.5 V8 engine, obviously he doesnt tell anyone but the truth has to come out sometime..
He also has a DSG map that will give him more revs at start to keep it on Turbo and probably a better clutch release to soften the impact through the drive train. I think with more revs it will not drop off turbo so you will not get this bog down then take up again that shocks the system, in other words its smoother as the power stays constant.
 

leshkin

Hold my beer...
VCDS Map User
Who's wasn't @leskins ?
Leskins does 3.92 0-60 to my knowledge.
https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/index.php?posts/3323548
Maybe your referring to Paddy's?
Paddy's is darn fast .... Just dunno why he'd have issues launching it, especially with S-tronic.

Sent from me
That's actually a slow time... I had slightly faster out of it since. I think it was 3.7ish, but I couldn't repeat that.

The TCU and the ECU maps are designed to work together by Niki and the launches are nowhere near as violent as they were on my older map. Rtech map launches feel more like someone, very skilled, is operating the clutch, rather than just dropping it, so much more progressive. I think he tweaks the traction control also.
 

paddy

Registered User
You need a lot of power to knock tenths off at this level :) or a loss of weight. I wonder what the difference is between 3 door and 5 door ? cant imagine its much as i think the length is near the same
 

leshkin

Hold my beer...
VCDS Map User
You need a lot of power to knock tenths off at this level :) or a loss of weight. I wonder what the difference is between 3 door and 5 door ? cant imagine its much as i think the length is near the same
This wasn't done at a drag strip and surface varied quite a bit. The initial traction makes huge difference to the final time. I would say that true 0-60 time would be somewhere in between.

That's also up a 3% incline, so I think there's more in it.

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Car weight was standard also.
 
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paddy

Registered User
I would love to know what mine would do but there would be no point in even trying until i get the DSG map sorted.
The audi is the only vehicle i have ever had that i have never got complacent with speed, it always surprises me how fast it is and constantly feels faster each time i boot it where as in the past i have got used to speed/power very quickly, its one of the reasons i gave up with mega fast bikes, sub 3 sec to 60 is the norm out of the crate for a lot of fast bikes. Suzuki 1000 is about 2.4 sec i think but you get used to it very quickly and thats when it gets dangerous IMHO
 
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Niffty9

Guest
I'm not a dump the clutch type either, I've always instinctively loaded up the drive chain with the clutch on the biting point so it's straining at the leash first. No slack to create a high inertia impact but then I punch the throttle and release the clutch almost together but just on the throttle first. If you get it perfect then the car just gets the wheels rolling before it comes on boost and all 4 wheels squirm... in a b5 rs4. In the S3 typically the clutch slips and smells bad with a normal level of acceleration:(
 
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fernando young

Registered User
what app is that?
 

leshkin

Hold my beer...
VCDS Map User
what app is that?
It's an app and an external high sample rate GPS receiver called Dragy and is similar in precision to the much more expensive Racelogic kit. Costs about £120 and allows many different measurements other than 0-60mph

I want to see how 100-200kph time looks as that's a more real world measure of acceleration performance. Need a trip to Germany next year haha
 

samuelh_888

Registered User
Today we fitted the Powerflex trans and engine mount inserts. There is no additional vibration but it feels like they’ve tightened the drive up a lot. It’s enhanced the gear changes further too which, coupled with the new clutch, is making the car much more enjoyable to drive.

The part numbers for the inserts I purchased were:
  • Transmission Mount Insert. PFF85-530
  • Upper Engine Mount Insert. PFF85-531
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The trans insert is common across most of the A3/S3 models but I believe there is a couple of options for the engine mount insert - the ‘531 was perfect thankfully, considering they were sent from the UK I didn’t fancy trying to exchange.

I haven’t received the TyrolSport collar kit yet but that’s not a big concern - I’ll get it fitted as and when.
 

S.

Save the manuals
That's a tasty mod sir.
They released other type of engine mount recently. When i got mine they had only one and that didn't fit my engine mount so i got the correct oem engine mount from ebay and fit the insers all around.
Really cheap and great mod. Less engine movement sharper gear changes and no additional NVH. Great for daily.
 

samuelh_888

Registered User
I received the TyrolSport collar kit, both the front and rear, and I also bought the front dog-mount Powerflex bush.

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We finally got around to fitting the front collars this weekend and what a **** of a job it is. If your ever try this do the 2x ARP bolts first, at the rear of the subframe then do the upper mount and the lower control arm mount.

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Fitting was a ball-ache, getting everything to line up but we managed to sort it after 4 hours! I didn’t fit the rear collar set and to be honest, I don’t know when I will now!!


The Powerflex Bush (the purple bush) was straight forward to fit - I’m not sure if it’s necessary but it’s now on nonetheless!

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I also fitted the P3Gauge analogue boost sensor. I ran the vacuum hose through the firewall, through a bung that the master loom goes through, behind the glove box into the engine bay. With the sensor my boost is not reading about 3.5psi more (accurate), maxing at 27.8psi so far.

Finally - I’m 600 miles into the new clutch and it’s horrible. It started off well but now it’s loud, tight on the gear shift and has a metallic squeal on clutch engagement. I actually don’t enjoy driving the car when it’s like this.

Spec have said this is normal but the previous clutch didn’t do it so I hope it’s not a sign that it will slip at revs in higher gears. I will start saving for the dmf and helix kit.
 

mechanic69

Registered User
VCDS Map User
Gold Supporter
I received the TyrolSport collar kit, both the front and rear, and I also bought the front dog-mount Powerflex bush.

View attachment 174866

We finally got around to fitting the front collars this weekend and what a **** of a job it is. If your ever try this do the 2x ARP bolts first, at the rear of the subframe then do the upper mount and the lower control arm mount.

View attachment 174867

Fitting was a ball-ache, getting everything to line up but we managed to sort it after 4 hours! I didn’t fit the rear collar set and to be honest, I don’t know when I will now!!


The Powerflex Bush (the purple bush) was straight forward to fit - I’m not sure if it’s necessary but it’s now on nonetheless!

View attachment 174868


I also fitted the P3Gauge analogue boost sensor. I ran the vacuum hose through the firewall, through a bung that the master loom goes through, behind the glove box into the engine bay. With the sensor my boost is not reading about 3.5psi more (accurate), maxing at 27.8psi so far.

Finally - I’m 600 miles into the new clutch and it’s horrible. It started off well but now it’s loud, tight on the gear shift and has a metallic squeal on clutch engagement. I actually don’t enjoy driving the car when it’s like this.

Spec have said this is normal but the previous clutch didn’t do it so I hope it’s not a sign that it will slip at revs in higher gears. I will start saving for the dmf and helix kit.

Agree the Tyrol bushes are a pain in the **** to line up, front was harder than rear tho


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

samuelh_888

Registered User
I adjusted the gear box linkages today and the gear selection is feeling better. I’ll live with the clutch as it is for a bit, hoping that and gearbox are ok.
 

S.

Save the manuals
Do you have uprated engine mounts?
Manual cars pushing stage2+ power really benefit from them.
Powerflex inserts are great. Ideal for daily. Cheap, not hars or noisy but reduce engine movement and improve gear shifts on manuals.
 

samuelh_888

Registered User
Do you have uprated engine mounts?
Manual cars pushing stage2+ power really benefit from them.
Powerflex inserts are great. Ideal for daily. Cheap, not hars or noisy but reduce engine movement and improve gear shifts on manuals.

Hey, I don’t have updated mounts, just the Powerflex inserts. They really helped with the gear shift but as the clutch has bedded in, and fitting the front dog-mount bush, the selectors needed readjusting.

It’s shifting well now, but there is a lot of gearbox noise under deceleration. It’s never ending :weary:
 
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