S3 Head unit replacement

[davsin]

Hi All,

Looking for advice on replacing a double din head unit, I have already replaced it as the 6 disc changer jammed and would not play any discs.
Looking at replacing with a double din Sony head unit but on reading some of the other threads people have had problems with amps, speakers, live feeds etc.
Is it really that bad, I have fitted many of stereos before but not in Audis.
I did see a mention of a sat nav option on the later models but is it a plug and play or do you need a particular loom and where could I source one from.

Asking the questions now and doing the leg work for some serious refurbishment over this summer.

Thanks for the replies in advance

David

 

[Dohcwp]

you will need an b6/b7 a4 double din headunit for the oem look (normally needs a small amount of trimming on the sides to fit)

pros and cons of both from my perspective

aftermarket navigation
plug and play if you go for audi specific android or wince headunits
no info on DIS except some dynavin headunits afaik
More features than OEM RNSE Units supports lots of formats, even has games, no limits on sd cards sizes (most units)
higher resolution screen
stability issues - especially with the android based units
Questionable built quality - depends on manufacturer/brand
gps does not require speed signal from cluster
easier to intergrate with retrofitted multifunction steering no control module needed (since most aftermarket units come with a canbus emulator) so its just a matter of hooking it up to the can hi and low wires on the clockspring


OEM RNSE
Needs coding (normally as an A6) - quadlock radio connector afaik
displays radio and nav info on DiS
limited features (rnse's are long in the tooth) only supports a few formats, sd card size limits
no stability issues
lower res screen but better visibilty on the screen (on some aftermarket screens, especially the cheaper ones the viewing angles are pretty crap)
solid built quality
gps requires gala speed signal in order to work
MFSW requires a multifuntion control module to operate

 

[Tj 0785]

The mfsw is a lot of work to get controls working and with the wheel and airbag you are looking at around 1k ( not including the headunit). I’ve fitted the mfsw and rnse and I’m trying to find some diy info on wiring up the controls and which control module is compatible
Rnse will work fine with the standard wheel
Bluetooth on the rnse requires a certain Bluetooth module if sticking with oem and will only do phone connectivity not music

 

[Dohcwp]

The mfsw is a lot of work to get controls working and with the wheel and airbag you are looking at around 1k ( not including the headunit). I’ve fitted the mfsw and rnse and I’m trying to find some diy info on wiring up the controls and which control module is compatible
Rnse will work fine with the standard wheel
Bluetooth on the rnse requires a certain Bluetooth module if sticking with oem and will only do phone connectivity not music

this should help, found it on an Italian site a few years ago.


First you have to get a central control of an A3 8P:I recommend that the code ends with the final F, other versions may not handle the multifunctionand an antagonist ring that was mounted on many Audi modelsOf these you find several that manage the multifunction, same code but with different letters like AG, BK .... Easy to understand it from the shape, note in the first photo my (the one on the left) and the one purchased (on the right).

The only problem you will encounter when making this change is the programming of the steering unit! Being much more recent than our electronics, it communicates through the cunbus line and not through that K. What does this mean?Which can not be set by collating it on our car!It must be installed on an A3P 8P and set via Vag to manage the multifunction control.
Let's move on to the connections to be made, in the photo are highlighted only the affected socketsIn detail the pins concernedPIN 14 CAN-HPIN 15 CAN-LPIN 19 + 12V FIXEDPIN 20 MASSthe highlighted pin is the + 12V KEY SIGN

the third pin from below is the one that receives the signal from the steering so it is the only one that goes past the steering wheel. The others just pass them behind the stereo, there we can connect them to the existing cables.
Here is how the unit is presented once wiredand here after putting a plug with 6 contacts, you do not know mine you have to detach the unit for some reasonI proceeded to collacare the control unit behind the glovebox, under the steering there are already too many what's this!!!!At this point, the fixed positive, subkey and ground can be taken from the original ISO connector, the two bus can be connected to position 9 and 10 of the connector D of your Rns-e (POS 9 CAN-H, POS 10 CAN-L).

Along with the wire to be worn behind the wheel also pass a positive subkey (you always take it from the Iso connector behind the stereo.
At this point, remove the standard steering wheel and the plastic covers placed around the steering barrel. Remove the old riveting ring (just unhook the three plastic tabs and the rear connector) and connect the new one. The airbag connector and horn corresponds to your standard (highlighted in green), you just have to invent the way to connect the positive key and the signal from the two-pin steering control of the connector highlighted by the red circle.Once chosen two on one side with a tester will easily find in the connector on the other side of the ring to which pin match (always highlighted in red).I used two connectors that I was in my official Audi workshop !!!!!Front

Rear

 

[Tj 0785]

The bit I can’t seem to find which module is compatible. the wheel I have is from a b8 platform and the airbag is from the 8v (single stage)and most of the diy threads I’ve come a cross are using the 8p wheel and airbag and a resistor because they are using a double stage air bag but not sure if the 8p module will work with my wheel. According to hazzy dayz the wheel I have is the best Choice as it’s the most compatible with the 8l ( less work involved)

 

[Dohcwp]

The bit I can’t seem to find which module is compatible. the wheel I have is from a b8 platform and the airbag is from the 8v (single stage)and most of the diy threads I’ve come a cross are using the 8p wheel and airbag and a resistor because they are using a double stage air bag but not sure if the 8p module will work with my wheel. According to hazzy dayz the wheel I have is the best Choice as it’s the most compatible with the 8l ( less work involved)

you can only use the 8p modules since 8p's are still canbus based, b8 a4's a3 8v's etc use lin bus and none of those modules are compatible with the canbus based 8l cars.

remember even though they are using 8p steering wheels the 8l only has a single stage airbag trigger so whenever an 8p wheel is used on an 8l both ignitors are wired to the single stage trigger.

that is why they do this when wiring an 8p airbag on an 8l

 

[Tj 0785]

you can only use the 8p modules since 8p's are still canbus based, b8 a4's a3 8v's etc use lin bus and none of those modules are compatible with the canbus based 8l cars.

remember even though they are using 8p steering wheels the 8l only has a single stage airbag trigger so whenever an 8p wheel is used on an 8l both ignitors are wired to the single stage trigger.

that is why they do this when wiring an 8p airbag on an 8l

Yeah I didn’t fancy messing with airbag wires that’s why I went the single stage and not the 8p route dnd My airbag and horn are working


Ok cheers that clears it up abit