S3 GTX2860R gen II build

Had to skip the FMIC weld since my skills with stick weld are poor and even poorer on aluminium.
Also this hell hole of a city doesnt have aluminium welder unless you pay 300€ which I wont pay for 20mins job.

I took of the old smic pipe that is under car and hammered the right side chassis bar inwards a bit and now I got the 76mm pipes fit inside of bumber, almost close enough to fit grills so the pipes dont show up so easy.
Left side we used 76mm alu pipe and got it to fit too! Still you would lose fogs if you had them.

I did last hosing for DV/N75 etc. and filled car with water. First and so far only leak was temp switch for fans, the gasket was broken.
I hope there wont be more leaks when I start to crank the car.

Im not happy with how DV was fitted and Im going to fix that soon but now I have to get the car running first since my "lease" on garage is ending soon.

Next is to hook battery up and flash ECU with tune appropiate for my setup. I get great help from a guy who lives in USA and made program for me and he is going to help me tune the car too over net! Im excited to study more about mapping the car, its been long time since I tuned megasquirt/vems etc.

I need to prime the engines oil pump, any tips? I know I have to pull the fuse for fuel pump but is it necessary to remove spark plugs?
Have you guys filled turbo first or just took oil hose off and crank until oil comes out?

Sorry no pics today. Will try take some tomorrow if anyone interested.
BTW I have to give huge huge huge thanks to my dad who is helping me :) 70 years old man who is in great shape, allthought he still lives in 70's. I have heard so many times now how great Fiat 127 car was and how ****** audi/vw engineers are to cram all in etc. :D
 
Im not happy with my TIP, it comes in contact with brake booster. I added padding to silicone hose so it wont rub it broken but this is not long time solution.
How lot would 76mm->63mm->76mm in TIP restrict flow to turbo? a 63mm pipe would not come in contact at all with brake booster.
Other thing might be to use UK version brake booster, arent UK version booster like 8"? I have 10" booster on left hand drive.

Also has anyone replaced the metal pipes that run next to block till heater with hoses? That would also give me more room.
 
Tip turned out okay after dad made good brackets for it.

Today was hellish day: Leak, leak leak and leak...
Leak from fan switch, leak from turbo water pipes and of course leak from power steering piping.
My dad suggested to use plumping parts to connec the metal pipes when I modified the steering pipe. I was very unsure will it work and had doubts but he got into my head and I belived they would hold for moment. Weeks I have been thinking "Im sure it will leak from there" and guess what! It did leak like hell!
Pipe was behind turbo of course so no room. I used dremel to cut it in small pieces and pulled it off.
Now I have to build new pipe but this ****** town where I live, doesnt have any special shop open where to get parts. So ******* annoyed right now, I swear I move away from this hell hole..

Car would have been ready for first start today but now its going to be next week.
 
Tj 0785 said:
How much are they ?
Click to expand...
fmic.eu sells at 250€ which is not bad price for controllable haldex IMO
You use potentiometer to set the power difference between axles example 50-50 then you dont have to do anything else.
It works like normal haldex unit and disconnects itself on braking etc.
Cookiez said:
https://e9performance.bigcartel.com/product/e9-mk4-power-steering-hardline-replacment
¨
An alternative to your powersteering lines.
Routes both lines to the front of the car.
A small cooler, like a typical transcooler would be nice to mount at the same time :)
Click to expand...
Looks nice. My problem is the return line but Im getting today hose to replace the pipe. Since its return, there is not much pressure but to be sure I am using 10bar steel braided hose.
Atm looking for oil cooler so perhaps I order another cooler for steering as well and AN hoses.
 
I saw youtube video today saying that not to use baffled oil catch can because it can increase crank case pressure. I have baffled catch can so how much of an issue this really is?
 
So long as the pipework is stock size (19mm) or above, then it's not an issue. Baffled is best for helping oil vapour to condense, limiting the amount that gets taken back through the intake. :relaxed:
 
Warsuperior said:
I saw youtube video today saying that not to use baffled oil catch can because it can increase crank case pressure. I have baffled catch can so how much of an issue this really is?
Click to expand...
ambiguous
stuff a can hard full of stuff and yea you will restrict flow through...
BUT....... thats not how they are..

blow in your pipes.. if no resistance, its going to be no worse
 
badger5 said:
ambiguous
stuff a can hard full of stuff and yea you will restrict flow through...
BUT....... thats not how they are..

blow in your pipes.. if no resistance, its going to be no worse
Click to expand...
This video was from precision turbos so that is why I wanted opinions. Mine does not restrict at all and I was sure its not going to be a problem.

I ordered 10an breather plugs made from aluminium that fit straight to block and cylinder head. Also ordered 0.5L aluminium breather tank with an10 connections.
Also bought 13 row oil cooler+sandwich type oil filter plate with thermostat, an10 connectors and hoses but one question came to mind: How lot does it increase oil capacity approx?

Also the haldex controller came and I opened it up to see what is inside. Seems to use ATMEGA processor and some pwm's etc.
Maybe some electronics engineer could replicate it :p
 

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I need to build new exhaust from cat. Id like to keep sound near oem levels. I dont like lot sound coming inside of car from exhaust since I appreciate good sound system.
Any suggestion what size/kind muffles I should get? I have SS straight 3" pipe and 4x 3" 90 degree bends. I was looking for magnaflow rear muffler 18" long round, does that fit there? and what about the middle muffler, any suggestions?
Its hard for me to get under car atm, since I dont have lift but I would like to order the parts and reserve time for a place where is lift.
 
Have you read my build thread yet? if not I suggest you give it a whirl... have done all this more than once ;)

<tuffty/>
 
Still some to go until finished.
I decided to tape the turbo pipe with carbon sticker since I have lot of that.
Found OEM first aid kit from trunk too :)
 

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From memory... centre box was 250mm long and I think 5" round, rear boxes were 450mm long, one being 5" round and the other 8.5x6.5" oval

<tuffty/>
 
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On the subject of bends I used a combination 1D and 1.5D bends... most bends are 1.5D but you may find you need a few 1D bends for the tighter turns

<tuffty/>
 
Car has electrics and I cranked it with fuel fuse/relay off to prime oil pump.
All went well. I started to reflash it but didnt get far enough and ran out of time for today.

My multifunction display is broken, is there anyway to fix it?
 

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Warsuperior said:
Car has electrics and I cranked it with fuel fuse/relay off to prime oil pump.
All went well. I started to reflash it but didnt get far enough and ran out of time for today.

My multifunction display is broken, is there anyway to fix it?
Click to expand...

colorMFA ;)
 
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I ordered sandwich plate for oil cooler but I guess it was wrong size since filter doesnt screw on.
What size is the thread to be? or where you guys have ordered them?
 
Just a word of caution with Haldex controllers, I had a blue one and not long down the line the rear diff went. Somewhere around 115,000. It was probably on its way out anyway but the controller speeded up its demise (was on for about 6 months).

Just to make you aware :)
 
Forgive me if I read that wrong, but my controller was still fine, it was just the diff that went. I just like to caution people using controllers as you’re making a pretty old diff do a lot more work than it was designed to do so it’s always a good idea to have some money aside in case it does kick the bucket. They’re great though, should have been like that from the factory.
 
i dont see how you attribute/blame a performance haldex controller with a diff failure..
things do just wear out and break...

coincidence more like, not blame

you would hear of this happening often if it were the case
 
JonnyDerv said:
It was probably on its way out anyway
Click to expand...

As I said, it was probably on its way out anyway, it probably just sped up its failure. I didn’t blame it for its failure. Don’t see anything wrong with making someone aware incase their diff is on high miles to put something aside for a rainy day.
 
JonnyDerv said:
As I said, it was probably on its way out anyway, it probably just sped up its failure. I didn’t blame it for its failure. Don’t see anything wrong with making someone aware incase their diff is on high miles to put something aside for a rainy day.
Click to expand...

no different to:-
1. "since mapped my coil packs failed"
2. "since mapped my fuel pump has failed"
3. "fitted my new downpipe and the lambdas died"

anyhows... I agree, it would have been 'on its way out anyway', but I doubt it sped up any failure personally.
 
Surely putting extra load on anything that is potentially nearing the end of its lifespan is going to shorten it somewhat is it not? I’m no Haldex expert but isn’t a performance Haldex controller going to subject a rear diff to higher stresses than a stock one? Which (in a rear diff whose days are numbered) surely will shorten its lifespan the same as any mechanical part that is asked to do more load when it’s a tired part?

It could well of been a coincidence but to me it makes sense it would be a contributing factor, but I don’t know the ins and outs of Haldex controller engagement and its role on mechanical wear.
 
What actually went? clutch plates or the actual diff?

Controller will potentially keep the clutch engaged more of the time in anticipation to being driven sportily so in turn this will load up the diff more and increase wear on the plates

<tuffty/>
 
Big problem: fans dont work. I have done wideband conversion and pulled 61 pin because fans pump but now they Dont turun at alla. First test drive engine tempo went to 100c fast alltho meter showed only 90c. Them low fluid temp came on and i rushed to fill it only to get geysir of fluid and Electronic pump screaming but no fans
 
<tuffty/> said:
What actually went? clutch plates or the actual diff?

Controller will potentially keep the clutch engaged more of the time in anticipation to being driven sportily so in turn this will load up the diff more and increase wear on the plates

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

It was the diff, first noticed an issue by a whining at the rear that became louder and louder over a short period of time. Second hand diff was fitted and it was fine. The diff was never stripped down to see exactly what had failed but I’m guessing pinion bearings?
 
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