Any catch can that is baffled and has 19mm diameter on them are fine. I have heard of people get none baffled ones and putting brillo pads in but personally I'd get a baffled one.
S3 boost issues
- Thread starter danny_dj3
- Start date
back from the garage today, not all bad, not all good;
small oil leak from between engine/gearbox, not too sure just yet till i have cleaned it all up and have traced it out properly. been told not to worry as its minimal. could possibly be from the crank breather elbow/pcv system leaking.
slight leak on the power steering, same as above, told not to worry.
top mounts o/s/f and n/s/f both totally ******'ed - in for new next week.
rose bushes check as per the tie arm thread - all ok.
quad exhaust held on by a jubilee clip [lol] on drivers side - bracket being made to make good.
there was a mention about a 'high pressure valve' or something similar on the back end thats snapped a bracket, wasn't too sure about this but asked for that to be sorted when in next week
all bushes and joints seem fine, also turbo shaft play checked and thats all good too, but the tip can be pulled off as its appears not to have been fixed on. just read Bills post in respect to fitting the tip, and it looks like there are no allen grubs in it [unless thats a badger thing ] it looks like a creations one that was fitted. not too sure about the correct fitting on this being the grubs or a jubilee clip - advice appreciated. and a slightly loose connection from center pipe to back box.
other than the couple of sensor warnings as per the earlier post, the rest is good.
still have the issue when setting off occasionally the traction control light flashes on and i get a total lack of power, tends to be first thing in the morning whilst the car is cold - cant find info about this so i set off driving with tc turned off until its warmed up a little.
still getting 9 beeps after starting the engine, found that 3 is the battery in the alarm is dead, but again, cant find anything about 9.
small oil leak from between engine/gearbox, not too sure just yet till i have cleaned it all up and have traced it out properly. been told not to worry as its minimal. could possibly be from the crank breather elbow/pcv system leaking.
slight leak on the power steering, same as above, told not to worry.
top mounts o/s/f and n/s/f both totally ******'ed - in for new next week.
rose bushes check as per the tie arm thread - all ok.
quad exhaust held on by a jubilee clip [lol] on drivers side - bracket being made to make good.
there was a mention about a 'high pressure valve' or something similar on the back end thats snapped a bracket, wasn't too sure about this but asked for that to be sorted when in next week
all bushes and joints seem fine, also turbo shaft play checked and thats all good too, but the tip can be pulled off as its appears not to have been fixed on. just read Bills post in respect to fitting the tip, and it looks like there are no allen grubs in it [unless thats a badger thing ] it looks like a creations one that was fitted. not too sure about the correct fitting on this being the grubs or a jubilee clip - advice appreciated. and a slightly loose connection from center pipe to back box.
other than the couple of sensor warnings as per the earlier post, the rest is good.
still have the issue when setting off occasionally the traction control light flashes on and i get a total lack of power, tends to be first thing in the morning whilst the car is cold - cant find info about this so i set off driving with tc turned off until its warmed up a little.
still getting 9 beeps after starting the engine, found that 3 is the battery in the alarm is dead, but again, cant find anything about 9.
That grub screw that ur talking about. I think it's on the badger 5 tip that comes with a metal adapter to go on the turbo and then the tip attaches to it. So I think ur creation one will just be a jubilee clip. Check out badger 5's website and you will see what i mean.
yeah, i read the post on how to fit the badger one, checked the audi parts database and it looks like a 70-90mm jubilee clip so will pick up one tomorrow and fire it on to be safe. i defo have one on the intake side, and as far as i could see, im pretty sure it had an adaptor in the tip. will check it all again tomorrow if it hasn't dumped more snow down here as i need to trim the tip down a little as its slightly kinked.
gotta admit tho, im still loving the car
gotta admit tho, im still loving the car
Get it out in the snow and you’ll like it more ha, there’s none round here, last time it snowed I had a lot of fun in mine took the kids on a empty car park for a bit they luv’d it,
i got the scout for messing in the snow, no way am i taking the s3 out with road tyres on it especially the hill i live on!! did pretty much the same tbh, wife n 2 of the kids in the car and went drifting all over the hills up here, was a good giggle tbh. i was originally looking at a focus ST but after the feel if the haldex in the skoda, thought the s3 would be more to my liking.
snows gone now, but ****** cold again.
snows gone now, but ****** cold again.
been in for minor bits, cv joint, a little bracket at the back that had snapped, nothing massive tbh however...
now i seem to have rather a lot more smoke from the exhaust which scares me. I haven't got around to fitting the catch can just yet but after another 3 hours of reading the forums and peaples similar issues i am now unsure if i should be running a pcv delete. there was chatter from a member saying that the delete basically causes the engine to run with no vac at idle and this can cause pressure to force oil down the stem seals.
its smoking mainly once its warm, and more so at lights or waiting in traffic. this is pointing mostly at stem seals being on the way out, but before i did the delete, it wasnt as bad as this.
followed a link off here to VW forums and the guy talked bout how the system works and had a vid of how the pcv should work, absolutley zero oil cap bounce and instead vac holding the cap down and suction heard when lifted off.
Is this right?, as mine bounces all over the place, and im now getting worried , theres simply too many peaple with different opinions out there and im getting a little stuck on delete or not.
gonna service it at weekend, and prob throw the pcv pipework back on for a week and see if things clear, it all came off clean and without breaking, but will test it for leaks before i refit.
not really happy with it atm as a mate's standard 8p puts me to shame
now i seem to have rather a lot more smoke from the exhaust which scares me. I haven't got around to fitting the catch can just yet but after another 3 hours of reading the forums and peaples similar issues i am now unsure if i should be running a pcv delete. there was chatter from a member saying that the delete basically causes the engine to run with no vac at idle and this can cause pressure to force oil down the stem seals.
its smoking mainly once its warm, and more so at lights or waiting in traffic. this is pointing mostly at stem seals being on the way out, but before i did the delete, it wasnt as bad as this.
followed a link off here to VW forums and the guy talked bout how the system works and had a vid of how the pcv should work, absolutley zero oil cap bounce and instead vac holding the cap down and suction heard when lifted off.
Is this right?, as mine bounces all over the place, and im now getting worried
, theres simply too many peaple with different opinions out there and im getting a little stuck on delete or not.gonna service it at weekend, and prob throw the pcv pipework back on for a week and see if things clear, it all came off clean and without breaking, but will test it for leaks before i refit.
not really happy with it atm as a mate's standard 8p puts me to shame
and today brings more questions.
removed the TIP as it was loose and turned out allen grub not tightened at all... the state of it wasn't good.
and the intake side was not good either..
the intake side of the turbo looks clean, and the oil thats in the intake has appeared to come from the TIP and not from the turbo itself.
turbo has minimal play, about 1mm in and out and maybe 1/2mm if moved around in a circle. feels free and smooth. not saying its perfect tho as i know how easy they can go, especially 100k miles plus.
now, once i got the TIP off, i noticed theres quite a lot of oil on the side of the head and around the back, i couldn't get right in to see where its leaking from but i suspect the half moon is a part culprit. the turbo is saturated too, so i would guess at the back of the cam cover too.
2 questions;
would the fact the billet adaptor hasn't been siliconed in be causing the ecu/maf to be getting a different reading from whats actually going in, obviously more so past the gap between adaptor and turbo intake housing, and would this possibly be causing a lot of my issues; rattling oil cap, oil being pushed thro the stem seals, the smoke at idle set off and the apparent lack of vac. as i see it, if the tip has not got the correct draw thro it, then the vac lines cant be 100% because there is a leak all around the intake = problems?
also read the post about fitting the badger tip, and i nipped to local car spare shop and asked for high temp silicone, explained what im gonna do and they recommended using wynns gasket sealer rated to about 240C. is this the right stuff to use, or would i be better looking for silicone as pictured in Bills post?
phew... once again, sorry for the massive post but i feel like im finally getting somewhere with the probs i have with the car.
cheers
removed the TIP as it was loose and turned out allen grub not tightened at all... the state of it wasn't good.
and the intake side was not good either..
the intake side of the turbo looks clean, and the oil thats in the intake has appeared to come from the TIP and not from the turbo itself.
turbo has minimal play, about 1mm in and out and maybe 1/2mm if moved around in a circle. feels free and smooth. not saying its perfect tho as i know how easy they can go, especially 100k miles plus.
now, once i got the TIP off, i noticed theres quite a lot of oil on the side of the head and around the back, i couldn't get right in to see where its leaking from but i suspect the half moon is a part culprit. the turbo is saturated too, so i would guess at the back of the cam cover too.
2 questions;
would the fact the billet adaptor hasn't been siliconed in be causing the ecu/maf to be getting a different reading from whats actually going in, obviously more so past the gap between adaptor and turbo intake housing, and would this possibly be causing a lot of my issues; rattling oil cap, oil being pushed thro the stem seals, the smoke at idle set off and the apparent lack of vac. as i see it, if the tip has not got the correct draw thro it, then the vac lines cant be 100% because there is a leak all around the intake = problems?
also read the post about fitting the badger tip, and i nipped to local car spare shop and asked for high temp silicone, explained what im gonna do and they recommended using wynns gasket sealer rated to about 240C. is this the right stuff to use, or would i be better looking for silicone as pictured in Bills post?
phew... once again, sorry for the massive post but i feel like im finally getting somewhere with the probs i have with the car.
cheers
ignore the questions above, a little more digging and pretty much sussed it all out
yes, the leak at turbo will be causing issues with the maf/ecu and probably is the cause to the lean code that i had originally, and it will be causing odd idle, excess smoke and a variety of little problems more than likley including my whole worry about the pcv delete and the sudden smoking.
the wynns stuff prob would work, but euro sell the normfest silon red, and as its the stuff to use, i shall be detouring there in the morning before work.
yes, the leak at turbo will be causing issues with the maf/ecu and probably is the cause to the lean code that i had originally, and it will be causing odd idle, excess smoke and a variety of little problems more than likley including my whole worry about the pcv delete and the sudden smoking.
the wynns stuff prob would work, but euro sell the normfest silon red, and as its the stuff to use, i shall be detouring there in the morning before work.
so finally got home and went straight out in the sleet to start messing under the bonnet. cleaned the adaptor and turbo up with IPA and let dry off, give a wipe with glass cloth and applied the silon gear. generous bead all around and cleaned the excess off with a clean cloth. there is a slight lip noticable as i did wipe a little hard and removed a little too much but still a good seal all around.
hopefully this is what my problem has been.
checked the maf and it seems to have a light coating of the same residue thats in the tip, so probably going to get a new one as i have read here that they aren't really cleanable, hot wire mesh or something thereabouts.
so whilst under the bonnet, i thought i would get rid of the n249 system as its been off for a few days and no codes have come up. started to undo the allen key bolts and the T connector literally crumbled into little fragments as i brushed it.
bay ain't the best looking, but its getting better, a lot less cluttered up. think im going to get rid of the JR filter and use the s2000 one, as the cotton filter need to be oiled and this could be sucked onto the maf causing problems right?
going to wait till tomorrow to take her out as the wife had issues with the DPF on the scout this morn so i have gotta drop that off at the garage to get sorted. DPF's.....bah.
gotta go back into hospital on monday for a few days, so im gonna be reading a lot more in depth on the forums, they are a goldmine of info!!
no hospital on monday, pushed my date a back a week for 'urgent surgery' lol! which works for me as im pretty busy at work and need the time in.
I left the car overnight for the silicon to set. took the skoda to the garage to be told my heater plugs were goosed and thats why i now have a dead DPF. even after changing them and taking the car for a 30 min blast to hudderfield and back it hadn't cleared. looks like a gut n remap coz i cba'ed paying out for a new one.
got home and warmed the s3 up, went out to pick up the wife and the performance was totally different. but.....its still smoking like a ****** so im going to throw it in for a compression test, and following that prob for stem seals,timing belt, water pump n tensioners.
can anyone recommend a good mid priced catch can system as the majority of the ones i have looked at seem to be all branded copies of cheap chinese stuff; cms want 100 notes for a can n a meter of pipe, china sells the same can with no brand for 20 quid :S
I left the car overnight for the silicon to set. took the skoda to the garage to be told my heater plugs were goosed and thats why i now have a dead DPF. even after changing them and taking the car for a 30 min blast to hudderfield and back it hadn't cleared. looks like a gut n remap coz i cba'ed paying out for a new one.
got home and warmed the s3 up, went out to pick up the wife and the performance was totally different. but.....its still smoking like a ****** so im going to throw it in for a compression test, and following that prob for stem seals,timing belt, water pump n tensioners.
can anyone recommend a good mid priced catch can system as the majority of the ones i have looked at seem to be all branded copies of cheap chinese stuff; cms want 100 notes for a can n a meter of pipe, china sells the same can with no brand for 20 quid :S
cool, will grab a can and shall look at some 19mm hose n connectors. recirc back to intake or block off and vent under the car?
I vent to atmosphere and blocked of the tip. Dont route it under car not oy will you make a mess of under the car but you will make the roads slippery for the likes of bikes. Just put 2 air filters on the can and that will do.
ok, had the op so hopefully im back to normal quickly.
need a little advice on some parts, im getting the timing belt, water pump and tensioner done while the head is in being checked over and new stem seal on.
is there any particular timing kit thats recommended or just a run of the mill average one, and will a elring head gasket kit be acceptable or should i be looking for an upgraded kit? [heard nasty things about supertech stem seals] also worth while its all apart doing the valve guides?
also looking for a spare head, but not too sure if i can swap out to a bam or if i am better sticking to an amk.
cheers
need a little advice on some parts, im getting the timing belt, water pump and tensioner done while the head is in being checked over and new stem seal on.
is there any particular timing kit thats recommended or just a run of the mill average one, and will a elring head gasket kit be acceptable or should i be looking for an upgraded kit? [heard nasty things about supertech stem seals] also worth while its all apart doing the valve guides?
also looking for a spare head, but not too sure if i can swap out to a bam or if i am better sticking to an amk.
cheers
