S3 8v dtuk fsr+

Suli

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Hello everyone just wanted your input on something excuse me if its already been mentioned but i couldn't find anything on it...
So i got a new S3 and couldn't wait start tweeking cause the power seemed a bit lacking in stock form i chose to go with the dtuk fsr + box pedal box and r600 intake combo that i installed about a week or so ago the power delivery was awesome big difference enough to keep a freinds cla45 playing catchup a few times and making him wonder if he made the right choice :) anyway a couple of days ago my car started to act funny i think im running the latest tune on 3+2 setting and it seems like if i floor it it seems to give and loose power at various points in the rpm like first 3 are not as hard pulling as it was then 4th and after i got power by the bucket load any thoughts? Only had the car 3months covered 12k km with it and ive ordered a fmic and downpipe cause its still not enough power and i wanna keep the temps down its 38°C now but the power delivery got hesitant to go ahead with the rest
 
where and when did you buy the box, feel free to contact us so we can trace you and determine what software you are running.
 
You shipped it on the 2nd of this month to oman.
 
map 3 is the oldest of the 3 files, and has been tried and tested on hundreds of cars.

have you tried map 1?
 
I can't really help you as I have not started tuning my car although I would love to. It's when I hear stories like this that make me reluctant.

To be keeping up with a CLA45 is pretty impressive with just the addition of a DTUK FSR +, pedal box and Intake but you want even more power. Maybe you should go for an RS3. I see you've ordered a downpipe... which did you go for and how much extra power or torque do you anticipate getting from this?
 
Forbzee i kinda like it when things require a little playing around with gives me a chance to get to play around with the car and get to know it chances are i messed something up when i reran the wires to hide them a little better as i was in to much of a hurry to get the power i didnt care how it looked but it did drive perfectly after that for a few days but the recommend the dtuk system if it meets your needs and it does meet mine im sure its something simple that i overlooked... Didnt get the rs3 cause its not even out here yet and i like this little 2l . Andrew i tried the first map now for a while and it was fine for a bit now its doing the same thing its almost like its cutting off then picking up power
 
Forbzee i kinda like it when things require a little playing around with gives me a chance to get to play around with the car and get to know it chances are i messed something up when i reran the wires to hide them a little better as i was in to much of a hurry to get the power i didnt care how it looked but it did drive perfectly after that for a few days but the recommend the dtuk system if it meets your needs and it does meet mine im sure its something simple that i overlooked... Didnt get the rs3 cause its not even out here yet and i like this little 2l . Andrew i tried the first map now for a while and it was fine for a bit now its doing the same thing its almost like its cutting off then picking up power

you running 1+2 ? try 1+1 or less as it might sound like somthing similar i had and was fine with +1 or less
 
you running 1+2 ? try 1+1 or less as it might sound like somthing similar i had and was fine with +1 or less
Yeah was running 1+2 put it down to 1+1 gonna try that and move down see if that help thanks
 
Yeah was running 1+2 put it down to 1+1 gonna try that and move down see if that help thanks
yeh well mines a manual and when trying to run 1+2 or 1+3 after a gear change and putting my foot down it hesitated for a split second which seemed like an eternity, changing its to +1 or lower solved this
 
Daft question but why is every car needing a different setting as with a flash remap it's the same file for all cars I really like the idea of the box but I am one of the people sitting on the fence , I do under stand every engine made is different but it's not as if you go to apr,revo ect and they have 10 maps for you to pick
 
I do have a vwr600 too like the op which i think it making the difference
 
Just ran map 1 no + or - and the same issue although this time it didnt drive smooth right off the bat its like going through the rev band something is holding it back for a split second a couple of times before the next gear change... Odd thing is is was perfect a couple of days ago then when i tried 1+2 it was awesome for a couple of mins then messes up again might recheck the connectors tomorrow although i dont see how that would be the cause
 
Sure u connected the intake pipe back on with the clips properly? Would check that first before the box haha
 
Sure u connected the intake pipe back on with the clips properly? Would check that first before the box haha
Hahaha i did check that i just pulled off the box and put in that dead switch on and the problem seems to be gone although i just drove it for 10 mins the car seems to be fine lacking power but fine...
 
asper my emails i would suggest removing the R600 intake and see if the issue is still there as no one thats running without the R600 has mentioned this issue. I'm running the FSR+ /R600 and having no such issues.
 
Daft question but why is every car needing a different setting as with a flash remap it's the same file for all cars I really like the idea of the box but I am one of the people sitting on the fence , I do under stand every engine made is different but it's not as if you go to apr,revo ect and they have 10 maps for you to pick
the majority of people running the box on its own (without the R600 intake) are using the same settings as one another.

The 3 maps all deliver the power in a very different way, so a lot of it depends on their driving style and how aggressive or progressive they want their additional power
 
daft question, you do have this pipe fitted like this don't you?

r600%20radiator%20hose_zpsascihe0n.jpg


R600%20S3_zpsvibzjqvn.jpg
 
Yeah the pipe is just like that i will take it all out and connect refit everything then let you know but maybe a connector is loose or dirty
 
I'm running 3+3 and can't stop grinning !!
 
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My car is running good on the program1 +3 setting, dyno runs prove this to be the optimum setting for peak hp figures, I've also added the peddle box and v600 intake, no issues with power delivery holding back, try turning off the traction control, that could be the problem!!!!
 
Running a tuning box in a very hot temp country with the same boost levels you would use in the UK is nuts.

You're running too hot and your ECU is pulling out lots of boost and timing and dumping in a load of fuel in order to protect itself. Turn the boost down.

What fuel quality do you have in Oman? Do you have high octane fuel? 99 octane?

I have been to Oman, (Salalah and Muscat) and temps were 45-50c. I wouldn't even dream of boosting up a turbo with temps that high, never mind with a tuning box that adds boost, thus more heat.

Start again, disable the tuning box, drive the car hard. If okay, use the tuning box but on its lowest +1 boost setting, if okay, go up to +2 and so on.

You need a FMIC and perhaps water methanol to try and control your intake temps better. Try the tests at the coolest points of the day, not the hottest.
 
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Traction control is never on reds3... leo I started off with the standard settings and worked my way up the boost only till +2 and it ran fine on that for over a week till a little while back i guess ill turn it run map 1 without any aditional boost for a while then see what happens... As soon as i used the box and seen how much i lost after a couple of hard runs i ordered a fmic which is already arrived just waiting on the down pipe to get here so i can do the install in one go...it does get hot down here thats for sure and we are runinh 95ron here. Thanks for the advice
 
I think your answer is the fuel mate
 
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I think your answer is the fuel mate
By this you mean that 95ron is too low? Heat and fuel was a real concern for me thats why i specifically asked these questions prior to purchasing the unit and was assured that 95 would be fine and that the heat wouldnt cause any issues i hopefully wanna find the problem to this issue asap otherwise ill have to return the unit and go for a remap after my first service since i cant go back to stock after having a taste of the potential power
 
By this you mean that 95ron is too low? Heat and fuel was a real concern for me thats why i specifically asked these questions prior to purchasing the unit and was assured that 95 would be fine and that the heat wouldnt cause any issues i hopefully wanna find the problem to this issue asap otherwise ill have to return the unit and go for a remap after my first service since i cant go back to stock after having a taste of the potential power

You were told wrong, you should not be using high boost with low octane fuel in an EXTREMELY hot country. No wonder you are having problems.:blink: Your ECU is safeguarding your engine from melting and is pulling out boost, timing and dumping lots of fuel and your symptoms are exactly what I would expect.

Tuning boxes are already running lambda 1 (lean fuel mixture). Lean means hot, that coupled with additional boost, your hot climate and low octane fuel, I'm surprised you haven't already melted something.

You may think I am scaremongering about tuning boxes, nope, not at all, I run one on my S3 and never had any issues, it run well and produced good numbers. The big difference, I have access to high octane fuel and low ambient temperatures (Average yearly temperature for Scotland is 7c).

You either need to fill every tank with octane booster to increase your 95 octane to minimum 100, fit water methanol injection or remove your tuning box and get it remapped properly to take into account your running conditions. (Your tuner will run 0.65-0.75 lambda to compensate for your extremely high ambient temperatures in comparison to lambda 1 that your tuning box will be running, he will also run sensible boost) - Everything that you are doing is a recipe for disaster.

An upgraded FMIC I doubt will help much as they do not lower intake temps below ambient, downpipe will allow you to run more boost, will free up a little top end and will reduce back pressure from the turbo unit so will run slightly cooler EGT's but you're still fighting a losing battle, especially considering you need a remap to compensate for the Downpipe/FMIC, with a tuning box you will see no benefits from them.

You can run this post by any tuner or anyone that knows anything about car tuning and they will tell you the exact same thing as above, 1 million percent guaranteed.

All i'll say is be very careful.
 
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You were told wrong, you should not be using high boost with low octane fuel in an EXTREMELY hot country. No wonder you are having problems.:blink: Your ECU is safeguarding your engine from melting and is pulling out boost, timing and dumping lots of fuel and your symptoms are exactly what I would expect.

Tuning boxes are already running lambda 1 (lean fuel mixture). Lean means hot, that coupled with additional boost, your hot climate and low octane fuel, I'm surprised you haven't already melted something.

You may think I am scaremongering about tuning boxes, nope, not at all, I run one on my S3 and never had any issues, it run well and produced good numbers. The big difference, I have access to high octane fuel and low ambient temperatures (Average yearly temperature for Scotland is 7c).

You either need to fill every tank with octane booster to increase your 95 octane to minimum 100, fit water methanol injection or remove your tuning box and get it remapped properly to take into account your running conditions. (Your tuner will run 0.65-0.75 lambda to compensate for your extremely high ambient temperatures in comparison to lambda 1 that your tuning box will be running, he will also run sensible boost) - Everything that you are doing is a recipe for disaster.

An upgraded FMIC I doubt will help much as they do not lower intake temps below ambient, downpipe will allow you to run more boost, will free up a little top end and will reduce back pressure from the turbo unit so will run slightly cooler EGT's but you're still fighting a losing battle, especially considering you need a remap to compensate for the Downpipe/FMIC, with a tuning box you will see no benefits from them.

You can run this post by any tuner or anyone that knows anything about car tuning and they will tell you the exact same thing as above, 1 million percent guaranteed.

All i'll say is be very careful.
Thanks leo tuning box is coming off fingers crossed nothing has been damaged already
 
Thought id update you guys dtuk removed downpipe and fmic installed with stage 2 revo tune and this is a lot more like it... Special thanks to everyone who helped me with this issue your advice was appreciated
 
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Off topic but a quick question any thoughts on the gfb dv+? Also how restrictive is the rear exhaust back box as you might know i installed the miltech down pipe but thinking of getting the cat back to go with but i dont wanna do it for the sound only if it frees up some breathing. Thanks
 
You were told wrong, you should not be using high boost with low octane fuel in an EXTREMELY hot country. No wonder you are having problems.:blink: Your ECU is safeguarding your engine from melting and is pulling out boost, timing and dumping lots of fuel and your symptoms are exactly what I would expect.

Tuning boxes are already running lambda 1 (lean fuel mixture). Lean means hot, that coupled with additional boost, your hot climate and low octane fuel, I'm surprised you haven't already melted something.

You may think I am scaremongering about tuning boxes, nope, not at all, I run one on my S3 and never had any issues, it run well and produced good numbers. The big difference, I have access to high octane fuel and low ambient temperatures (Average yearly temperature for Scotland is 7c).

You either need to fill every tank with octane booster to increase your 95 octane to minimum 100, fit water methanol injection or remove your tuning box and get it remapped properly to take into account your running conditions. (Your tuner will run 0.65-0.75 lambda to compensate for your extremely high ambient temperatures in comparison to lambda 1 that your tuning box will be running, he will also run sensible boost) - Everything that you are doing is a recipe for disaster.

An upgraded FMIC I doubt will help much as they do not lower intake temps below ambient, downpipe will allow you to run more boost, will free up a little top end and will reduce back pressure from the turbo unit so will run slightly cooler EGT's but you're still fighting a losing battle, especially considering you need a remap to compensate for the Downpipe/FMIC, with a tuning box you will see no benefits from them.

You can run this post by any tuner or anyone that knows anything about car tuning and they will tell you the exact same thing as above, 1 million percent guaranteed.

All i'll say is be very careful.
+1 from me - High boost, plus high ambient temps, plus lean mix and low octane fuel = recipe for total meltdown. Get the box off and look at cooling/fuel quality before you refit it.
 
wouldn't advise the dtuk box after the experience ive had personally i'm sure that other people have good things to say about it but I took it off after a couple of weeks and now running the revo stage2 tune with turboback exhaust, front mount intercooler,vw racing r600 filter and the s3 hasn't missed a beat in over 15k km...
 

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