Yesterday I went to a drag race local event in town, as the previous one, my times round about 16.300 as an average, i'm running stock, @2700mts above sea level, @20 celsius degrees, other stocks s3 8p are running the same, but an S-tronic was faster than Std gearboxes, mine is STD. He was running 15.900. The thing is, even with ESP off, it's really hard to make a good start, when dumping the clutch @5000 rpms or @the fuel cut, the ECU "kills" power and brake the car, making horrible starts, and u looking like an ***. 1. Is there any "special" techniche for making a really good start...?? I have tried many and still the same killing effect. The ECU thinks that I'm losing control because of the wheels spinning at different speeds and uses the ABS to correct Tate effect. 2. A re mapping upgrade "revo" "APR" "unit tonics" "COBB" whatever the brand is, will allow me to make starts as a real man?? Haha, because this killing effect is the main contribuitor to thosm16 horrible secs. 3. What do you think about the 16.300 times?? Is it really slow compared to sea level times?? 4. Which time would be expected in the drag strip, I'm doing a stage 2 remap and a down pipe , plus taking out the resonator on the tail of the exauhst, how much BHP would you expect?? Thanks guys.
ESP off. Engage first gear. Bounce the revs around 4k. slightly slip the clutch to take up slack in the drive train. On green light part release the clutch on the upswing of the revs and feed it out quickly but do not dump it. You have to slip the clutch just on the point of traction of the wheels to get the best launch.. it does take a bit of practise. If you dump the clutch you will eventually break something. If not your flywheel then either your prop, 1st gear(especially if you dont take up gear box slack before you launch), transfer box and rear diff are all other possible weakpoints. A solid flywheel and a performance clutch will help "feel" launches out and they bite harder.
Do you have one foot on the footbrake and the other on the throttle at the same time? If so use the handbrake instead, should let you hold the required revs,
I think this is you personal experience, and sounds pretty good, I will try just the way you said, and I will hope nicer starts, about breaking something I think it´s too late for that, today in the morning the car start to make wierd noises in the time belt compartment, sounds like a bearing or a weir squick, anyways, this think happens everysingle time I hit the drag strip. do thsi happen to you also?? haha, what do you have ion your S3?? is it manual??? Thank you for your post.
Never tried that, the thing about the foot on the pedals, but sounds interesting combine this two strategies, engage 1st gear and slightly slip the clutch until slack the drive train, and use the hand brake to hold the position, do you drive a caterham?? thanks for the advice.
Naa, I drive a proper car, Westfield! This car is just come up for sale, currently counting available funds
boy, that looks like tons of fun! and this is the first time that I hear fo Westfield´s , they look pretty much like a chassis, engine , wheels and a seat, no need to to anything else, but do you need something else for getting FUN??! I don´t think so! Greetings Mr Westfield! LOL
Mines a manual yes - and since getting the spec clutch launches are a great deal easier - the flywheel is lighter so it revs freely and the clutch clamps hard but you can still slip it. It's a great mod so long as you can live with the rattle at idle.
Yes, but I seem to remember something about pre-facelift and facelift being different with this somehow (don't quote me on this)... On my '09 Facelift S3 pressing and holding the TC button will disable the ASR first and if you keep holding it for another 5 seconds or so, it disables ESP too.
Testament to how good the DSG box is, also the DSG has launch control, you can have launch control installed on a manual, but you will still loose out a tenth of a second on every gear change compared to the flat foot of the DSG driver with no lift off for each change.
I wish this is the case for my 2010 S3. (Middle Eastern version) can't fully deactivate TC Couldn't find anyone to help me try code it
You have tons of mods, I just read everithing you have, did u have any issues with the DV+ ?? , wich clutch you have? and does it rattles at idle? why is that!?
Nice car dude, lot of money on it, so yours is standard too? and you are passing trough the same as I do?
I have had no problems with the DV+, I have removed it a few times and have no scoring and a good coat of oil on it so it appears to be fit and forget and holds boost well. Clutch is spec 3+ with a steel flywheel. Yes it is a little noisy at idle with the clutch pedal up and slightly noisier on the overrun in gear driving. But you can slip it or pop it - it bites hard and the pedal weight is so similar to stock i almost didnt notice it. Compared to a friend and his helix clutch that is like trying to compress granite.
So the ASR and ESP issues will be solved by an improvement in the clutch, I tought it will be fixed with the remap of the ecu, and be able of making good starts with full power on the wheels. do you recomend the GFB DV+?? is it the best option instead of a BOV?? bennefits on the DV is turbo lag improved right??? cheers!! Nice Ride and mods!!
I'm not sure that the clutch will solve your issues. For sure,an uprated clutch will be far less likely to fail,or slip,but it won't improve traction at a start,unless it's slipping in the first place. The Spec Stg3+ is an excellent clutch( I run one myself,and was the first one here to use one,so it's been in the car for over 3yrs now,without problems),and it can cope with up to 570lbs. However,that simply shifts driveline failures to the next step down the line,i.e. the gearbox and transmission. What really will aid traction is a good set of trackday tyres,warmed properly,and adding an LSD like the Quaife,plus a Haldex controller will help a great deal as well. Audi's traction control is quite intrusive,and works by braking the wheel that's slipping,so reducing wheel slip,and improving traction via the diff is a big step.
No fuse for it then? Used to have a mate that worked with a rolling road, and he swore by removing TC fuses to kill them fully......
So a LSD will improve traction pretty much in the back, but the ESP will still braking the tyres, so I'm confused, so a Haldex controller plus a LSD by quaife, also an upgraded clutch, those are really good mods, but the tyres will slip much more will all this new energy going throug, so ESP will for sure controlling this slip, how? Breaking as you said before, so what's the point? Or in which previous step you had get rid of the ESP And ASR ...... Which is the job of the Haldex controller?? Lot of concerns but I'm pretty new in the community and it's my first turbo and Audi and Quattro and everything haha so sorry
Please ask him which fuse !!! Haha as Alex said Audi management system is really intrusive, it breaks the tyres so that means slow stars on the quarter mile
The diffs available for the S3 are for the front diff. Quaife,Peloquin and Wavetrac are the most popular. http://quaife.co.uk/quaife-products/quaife-limited-slip-differential/ I have a Quaife,which is a torque sensing device,and is very good at applying torque to difficult/variable surfaces. You may find it tends to fight a bit with the TC on a stock system,so I always turned the TC off. Now that I use a different and much more sophisticated ECU,with torque based TC,I can leave the TC on. A Haldex controller will preoad the rear a lot quicker than the ordinary controller does,and allow faster, larger torque inputs to be delivered to the rear. It does make a difference,but not as big as the diff,IMHO. http://www.hpamotorsports.com/product_haldex.html The tyres are the next area,as there is little point in having a setup capable of delivering and managing the torque,if the tyres are so poor that it all slips at the point of contact. A stickier set of tyres such as the Toyo R888 or similar will definitely help,especially when warm,but also remember our warnings above,in that if everything is much grippier etc etc,then the loads on the transmission will be increased. If you get bored,and have plenty of time,you'll find a pile of this in my build thread.
This is a VERY expensive step,and one I'd only recommend with a fully built engine and a big turbo. The ECU alone costs £2.5k,and requires significant programming,but having said that,offers a huge number of facilities such as multi-stage anti-lag,programmable launch control,and torque based TC. What this does is to look at the wheel sensor outputs,and when it senses a set degree of slip,it will cut torque by pulling back timing first of all,then fuelling and finally ignition,but does so in such a subtle manner that you hardly notice it in action. The other parameters it can control and use are too many to mention really,but it enabled us to get from 500bhp to beyond 600bhp quite easily.
well that goes too far for what I´m looking, so looks that, I wil have to discover it, with the incoming mods, my remap, intake, oil catch, downpipe, and 3" tube. The antilag is beatiful, do you have it installed in your car? where can I find videos of yours?? last question, do you know where can I get the users manual for my s3 8p??? dealer does not sell it anymore, not in PDF in the free web... any ideas?? thanks!! cheers!!
Syvecs' ECU is really a system aimed at the far end of the tuning market,or track cars. I do have ALS,as well as TC and LC. ALS is a real mixed bag,and has to be run very carefully to avoid problems. What you're doing is to ****** the ignition,run fuel during throttle closure,and effectively burn it in the exhaust to keep the turbo spinning. The end result is that EGTs can go very high with an aggressive ALS,and also the loads on the turbo shaft can be very high. Most manufacturers will neither recommend nor guarantee their turbos for such applications. You can run a very mild ALS,or a multi-stage setup like mine,but use with extreme care on a stock turbo.
It's called a Handbook or Owners Manual in the UK and they are available in Europe, they have a part number. No good giving you the number from mine as it is a dedicated A3 Handbook. Ebay UK has them http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...+handbook.TRS0&_nkw=audi+s3+handbook&_sacat=0 all different years available. Just found out you are in Mexico so try the Mexico or US Ebay.
Well unless I´m racing a rally car I would do it, sounds beautiful to me but the idea of risking all my work and money, would make me thing about it!! -.-' and of course I´m not a pro on this so fear is inside me haha! anyways thanks again for all the feedback Alex!
