S3 8P clutch pedal slow return.

[Speisser]

Hey,

Few days ago in the middle of driving my clutch started coming up really slow, about 2 seconds till its in normal position. So i went to mechanic he bleed the clutch but no use. The fluid it self was dilluted. Next day he swaped slave cylinder and new fluid, bleed it but it was no use still same so next he did replace master cylinder and we still in same situation.

All gears work fine but i felt some sliping before the pedal started coming up slow mostly in high rpm or higher gear with load. While he did the slave cylinder we inspected preassure plate and clutch disk they were pretty worn and DMF had some play.

So the question is what else can cause slow return for clutch pedal. Would it help if i change DMF and clutch kit whitch i plan to do anyway or is there no way a worn clutch set could affect the pedal so it would return slowly.

Mileage is 143k km. 2008 model. Any suggestions is appreciated!

 

[paddy]

I thought the clutch peddle was returned to position by a spring not the master cylinder or the clutch plate ?

 

[kash_v]

Try back bleeding it, not the easier to do but could sort it.

 

[Speisser]

Try back bleeding it, not the easier to do but could sort it.

Seems like an option, will give it a go.

I thought the clutch peddle was returned to position by a spring not the master cylinder or the clutch plate ?

The spring works 2 ways, it makes easier to push down when ur more than half way down and it pushes back up when half way up. So the clutch needs to come up on its own force to make the spring effective. Correct me if im wrong.

 

[Speisser]

Ok, today i tried reverse bleeding and result is still same or even worse for some reason. The paddle gets hard in some point and wont move at all unless the bleeding nipple is released and clutch seems to be engaged at all times so the car wont move but all gears are selectable. So i ordered clutch preassure plate, disk and DMF and will re do the gearbox off job this weekend.

 

[kash_v]

@Speisser did the new clutch/dmf sort it?

 

[Speisser]

Problem is solved. A transparent sand crystal was blocking the preassure in the bleeding nipple T-piece, there is a small hole in that piece like 2mm and the crystal blocked hole and made peddle hard and stuck, who would have guessed. But overall the new clutch and DMF is worth anyway, disk was worn and dmf had play over 5mm back/forth and 8 teeth in sideways, rattle is gone. Master/slave cylynders, clutch kit/dmf and labour a total of 920 euros whitch is pretty cheap comparing to my last Audi A4 ATM repeair for 1700 euros.
Im happy again☺

 

[kash_v]

Nice fix, Did you fit an uprated clutch?

 

[Speisser]

I thought a while about moving to SMF but since its a daily drive i bought o.e.m luk/sachs cause its a smoother ride. I will prolly just make stage1 remap to make it more effective so there will be not much stress on my o.e.m clutch.