rough idle, poor start hot or cold

[Nathen]

my A3 BKD has nearly clocked, 130k miles, the car in the past year or so has developed a poor idle and is rubbish starting hot or cold, sometimes it'll start 1st time no issue and then others it'll takes ages to turn on or just won't do anything until the second turn of the key, I'm going to be replacing the injector loom soon and I've read up on the net that something called the tandem pump gasket is a common failure and causes oil to mix with fuel, this can cause poor starting and idling, is there any truth to that? any other causes for my issue? thanks.

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[Rideen]

What year is the car? You can check my post history about A LOT of problems regarding BKD engines that I needed to solve back when I had one - bound to find one that will fix your car as my car kept breaking down every month.

 

[Nathen]

What year is the car? You can check my post history about A LOT of problems regarding BKD engines that I needed to solve back when I had one - bound to find one that will fix your car as my car kept breaking down every month.

54 plate, had the car 3 years and never broke down as such just issues that make me think it's gonna give up soon haha, its had a poor idle for a couple of years now but the starting issue has just arose in the past year :/ no error codes come up on the diagnostic kit, I'll have a look at your posts cheers,

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[Marek196c]

heavy start or cold/hot remind me starter issue, idle issue maybe stretching bolts on injectors.

 

[maxpayne]

Does it sound like this?



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[Nathen]

Does it sound like this?



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not really, tbh my engines sounds quite good apart from the dodgy idle which isn't all the time, alot of the time it runs smooth on idle then every now n again the car would shake n then it'll run smooth again, would like to add the car pulls well in every gear. I don't know how to get vids uploaded on to hear or id show you the idle and start up. like I said both the start up and idle issue arnt all the time sometimes the car would be like new.

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[Nathen]

heavy start or cold/hot remind me starter issue, idle issue maybe stretching bolts on injectors.

I was gonna replace the starter motor but don't want to start throwing money away for parts that probably don't need replacing.

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[Marek196c]

I was gonna replace the starter motor but don't want to start throwing money away for parts that probably don't need replacing.

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I think some auto centre can check it for you for free/small fee or you can look for some starting motor specialist. About injectors is the same, you need to get them off to check if they got issues in loosing diesel.

 

[Nathen]

I think some auto centre can check it for you for free/small fee or you can look for some starting motor specialist. About injectors is the same, you need to get them off to check if they got issues in loosing diesel.

will defiantly check out the starter motor tbh it's been on my "replace list" for about a year haha along with some other bits, I'm replacing the injector loom as I hear this is common to fail, i wanted to catch that before it fails completley, so will have a look at the injectors when I replace that, thanks for advice much appreciated, if the injectors were at fault id have poor MPG right? but I get about 200 miles out of £25 according to my trip computer anyway and that's back and forward to work, on a long trip a full tank can get me 400-500 miles. thanks.

I think some auto centre can check it for you for free/small fee or you can look for some starting motor specialist. About injectors is the same, you need to get them off to check if they got issues in loosing diesel.

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[Marek196c]

will defiantly check out the starter motor tbh it's been on my "replace list" for about a year haha along with some other bits, I'm replacing the injector loom as I hear this is common to fail, i wanted to catch that before it fails completley, so will have a look at the injectors when I replace that, thanks for advice much appreciated, if the injectors were at fault id have poor MPG right? but I get about 200 miles out of £25 according to my trip computer anyway and that's back and forward to work, on a long trip a full tank can get me 400-500 miles. thanks.



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On mine (BKD) after remap got (cruising) 51-53mpg on trip (cov-gatwick) and doing on full tank 500-500+ miles (still not on reserve) on daily doing 40-43mpg, 400-450miles on full tank (car is remapped), before I've got 56mpg on trip and in city 45-47mpg.

 

[maxpayne]

Lucky you guys. On my BWA 2.0T I get 22 MPG in city and and around 35 MPG on motorways. A true gas guzzler!


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[Nathen]

On mine (BKD) after remap got (cruising) 51-53mpg on trip (cov-gatwick) and doing on full tank 500-500+ miles (still not on reserve) on daily doing 40-43mpg, 400-450miles on full tank (car is remapped), before I've got 56mpg on trip and in city 45-47mpg.

I try not to let mine hit reserve tbh I hear it's not good to do that, mine used to be rubbish on fuel before I replaced the EGR valve, I just thought considering the MPG im getting is fairly high depending on how heavy my foot is, my injectors are fine. I'll still check them when I replace the loom, cheers.

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[Nathen]

Lucky you guys. On my BWA 2.0T I get 22 MPG in city and and around 35 MPG on motorways. A true gas guzzler!


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haha I don't think I'd be able to afford to run a petrol on the miles I do per week haha, now I rent my own home anyway. my old honda civic was terrible on fuel £20 of petrol would last 3 days.

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[maxpayne]

I try not to let mine hit reserve tbh I hear it's not good to do that, mine used to be rubbish on fuel before I replaced the EGR valve, I just thought considering the MPG im getting is fairly high depending on how heavy my foot is, my injectors are fine. I'll still check them when I replace the loom, cheers.

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Correct. I didn't know it but if you hit reserve, the engine is potentially sucking in gunk built up over the years from the bottom.

Hopefully the 2.0T will be the last ICE based car we'll own. Fed up with all the issues. The future is electric.

 

[Nathen]

Correct. I didn't know it but if you hit reserve, the engine is potentially sucking in gunk built up over the years from the bottom.

Hopefully the 2.0T will be the last ICE based car we'll own. Fed up with all the issues. The future is electric.

yh I heared that so I don't let mine hit reserve if I can help it sometimes I can't help it but i try. I don't know if the last person did or not before me but the cars nearly at 130k miles. can't see me owning an electric car tbh haha.

Correct. I didn't know it but if you hit reserve, the engine is potentially sucking in gunk built up over the years from the bottom.

Hopefully the 2.0T will be the last ICE based car we'll own. Fed up with all the issues. The future is electric.

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[Marek196c]

I try not to let mine hit reserve tbh I hear it's not good to do that, mine used to be rubbish on fuel before I replaced the EGR valve, I just thought considering the MPG im getting is fairly high depending on how heavy my foot is, my injectors are fine. I'll still check them when I replace the loom, cheers.

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Missundersending, my bad, I don't let mine hit reserve too (but is because don't like when the icon appear), in 2 years I've got 1 or 2 times to get light on, but for few miles.
Now generally about the gunk, if you got the gunk instead of not letting it go under reserve (as in-tank fuel pump got fine mesh on it mean filter), it's better to periodically clean up the tank (like every 5 years)

 

[maxpayne]

Missundersending, my bad, I don't let mine hit reserve too (but is because don't like when the icon appear), in 2 years I've got 1 or 2 times to get light on, but for few miles.
Now generally about the gunk, if you got the gunk instead of not letting it go under reserve (as in-tank fuel pump got fine mesh on it mean filter), it's better to periodically clean up the tank (like every 5 years)

How do you clean the tank? Manual or some fuel additive?

 

[Marek196c]

I think better to do it manual, specially over year if it deposit and stick, best way will be to get it out, empty and use some chemicals and long brush, is the best, but you can also try the chemicals (if you don't want take off the tank), like when you hit the reserve put the chemicals (diesel cleaners or whatever they call) shake well the car and leave it for a bit, then drive it like 10 miles to not empty it and fill with fresh diesel and put more chemicals (still in quantity recommended by manufacturer. Also good practice (if you don't want to get all tank off) you can just take off the fuel pump and clean/change mesh/filter.

 

[maxpayne]

I think better to do it manual, specially over year if it deposit and stick, best way will be to get it out, empty and use some chemicals and long brush, is the best, but you can also try the chemicals (if you don't want take off the tank), like when you hit the reserve put the chemicals (diesel cleaners or whatever they call) shake well the car and leave it for a bit, then drive it like 10 miles to not empty it and fill with fresh diesel and put more chemicals (still in quantity recommended by manufacturer. Also good practice (if you don't want to get all tank off) you can just take off the fuel pump and clean/change mesh/filter.

Wish you were close to London. Could have had your help sprucing up the car/engine!

 

[Nathen]

Missundersending, my bad, I don't let mine hit reserve too (but is because don't like when the icon appear), in 2 years I've got 1 or 2 times to get light on, but for few miles.
Now generally about the gunk, if you got the gunk instead of not letting it go under reserve (as in-tank fuel pump got fine mesh on it mean filter), it's better to periodically clean up the tank (like every 5 years)

id love to clean my fuel tank out, tbh I've never even thought that u could, I used diesel injector cleaner but that's about it, I might give it a go.

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[Marek196c]

mmm watch some vids on cleaning tank/fuel pump on yt specially or restoration projects,

 

[Nathen]

mmm watch some vids on cleaning tank/fuel pump on yt specially or restoration projects,

cheers I'll do that.

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