Sportback Reyland brake upgrade (front & rear), size advice

A_Davison

Registered User
Hi all

Finally getting around to upgrading the discs and would like some advice on potentially going for the big brake kit.

My initial thoughts were to replace front and rear with just OEM sizes (370mm and 310mm). I'm sure this would still be marked difference over the stock discs, however that wouldn't solve the 'nose dive' and unstable rear sensation under braking. I appreciate weight transfer will always be a factor, but see below for why this is so exaggerated on this car and why I think it can be improved.

Would you advise going bigger on both front and rear.. or just upgrade the rears to 350mm?

I don't want to negatively affect the brake bias/ABS system but I find it bizarre there is such a size difference.. almost 20% difference in rotor size front to rear and this has to be contributing to the sensation described above.. surely the only reason Audi would do this is to save money?

For comparison sakes, other performance Haldex models have the following ratio so I don't believe it would damage the drivetrain, and would bring it more in line with what we see on other cars:
    • Merceds A45 (350mm/330mm) - 6%
    • Audi S3 (340mm/310mm) - 9.6%
    • Stock RS3 (370mm/310mm) - 19%
  • RS3 with upgraded front & rear (380mm/350mm) - 8.5%
  • RS3 with upgraded rear (370mm/350mm) - 5.7%
Any help/advice on whether to go front and rear or just rear would be appreciated as 'trial and error' is an expensive way to go about it other wise haha.

Use case: its a 2016 RS3 and gets fast road use with the occasionally track day. Also plan to go to the Nurburgring next year (COVID permitting). Will be used with Ferodo DS Performance pads.

Thanks
 

XIIIESA

New Member
Might be a little off topic l, I’ve just posted my ceramics brakes up for sale this morning if that’s something you’d be interested in, won’t let you down on a track or on the road ;)
 

Gnasher

Registered User
There's a lot more to it than disc size - pad area, piston sizes, weight distribution etc. are all factors in brake balance.

However, I also believe that your suspension will have as much to do with this (if not more) than your brakes. From what you describe, if you had less dive/weight transfer, the rear wheels would be less "unloaded" and this would also help the situation.
 

T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
Hi all

Finally getting around to upgrading the discs and would like some advice on potentially going for the big brake kit.

My initial thoughts were to replace front and rear with just OEM sizes (370mm and 310mm). I'm sure this would still be marked difference over the stock discs, however that wouldn't solve the 'nose dive' and unstable rear sensation under braking. I appreciate weight transfer will always be a factor, but see below for why this is so exaggerated on this car and why I think it can be improved.

Would you advise going bigger on both front and rear.. or just upgrade the rears to 350mm?

I don't want to negatively affect the brake bias/ABS system but I find it bizarre there is such a size difference.. almost 20% difference in rotor size front to rear and this has to be contributing to the sensation described above.. surely the only reason Audi would do this is to save money?

For comparison sakes, other performance Haldex models have the following ratio so I don't believe it would damage the drivetrain, and would bring it more in line with what we see on other cars:
    • Merceds A45 (350mm/330mm) - 6%
    • Audi S3 (340mm/310mm) - 9.6%
    • Stock RS3 (370mm/310mm) - 19%
  • RS3 with upgraded front & rear (380mm/350mm) - 8.5%
  • RS3 with upgraded rear (370mm/350mm) - 5.7%
Any help/advice on whether to go front and rear or just rear would be appreciated as 'trial and error' is an expensive way to go about it other wise haha.

Use case: its a 2016 RS3 and gets fast road use with the occasionally track day. Also plan to go to the Nurburgring next year (COVID permitting). Will be used with Ferodo DS Performance pads.

Thanks

It does brake ‘flatter’ but won’t 100% solve the nose diving issue you speak off.
Also be aware the rear Reyland 350 disc requires brake Caliper carrier modification prior to fitting.


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A_Davison

Registered User
It does brake ‘flatter’ but won’t 100% solve the nose diving issue you speak off.
Also be aware the rear Reyland 350 disc requires brake Caliper carrier modification prior to fitting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you, from what I've read on Reylands site its a relatively simple modification.

Does anyone else have real world experience of larger rear brakes? Interested to hear opinions!

Thank you
 

Alli_RR

Registered User
I have the bigger Reylands on my saloon, I've only done about 1000 miles on them so far but I havent had any balance type issues, funny noises or anything. My only criticism of them is they do kinda corrode up a bit, specifically the inner part of the disc.
I will be using the car on track for the odd hot hatch day so I guess we'll see what they are like closer to the limit in the new year!
 

A_Davison

Registered User
I have the bigger Reylands on my saloon, I've only done about 1000 miles on them so far but I havent had any balance type issues, funny noises or anything. My only criticism of them is they do kinda corrode up a bit, specifically the inner part of the disc.
I will be using the car on track for the odd hot hatch day so I guess we'll see what they are like closer to the limit in the new year!

Thanks for the feedback! Would you mind posting a picture of them so I can better understand the corrosion you’re referring to?

Thanks!
 

Alli_RR

Registered User
Thanks for the feedback! Would you mind posting a picture of them so I can better understand the corrosion you’re referring to?

Thanks!

Here you go, just see it on this one on the rotor close to the bell. Ill be painting that little surface silver for aesthetics but apparently they dont come with a corrosion type protection as they are a motorsport disc? Could be wrong there but I'm certainly experiencing some surface corrosion on all 4 discs at the same part.
 

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T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
Just unswept inner area of the disc surface.
No biggie really, if it concerns you just paint it. I’ve been running these for nearly 2 years and it never bothers me.

Great discs and pad combo and well worth the investment.


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A_Davison

Registered User
Just unswept inner area of the disc surface.
No biggie really, if it concerns you just paint it. I’ve been running these for nearly 2 years and it never bothers me.

Great discs and pad combo and well worth the investment.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does this happen on both the front and rear discs? Or just the rear?

A
 

T-1000

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
Does this happen on both the front and rear discs? Or just the rear?

A

Mainly the front as the pads aren’t tight to the bell.


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Alli_RR

Registered User
Does this happen on both the front and rear discs? Or just the rear?

A

Fronts are a bit more corroded than the rears but all have it. So far as I said earlier, I've done about 1000 miles commuting around 40miles a trip to work on a mixture of A roads and M (to give you an idea of speed/brake cycle), this was before the cold snap and salt was down on the roads too. I've had no other issues and I plan on painting that part anyway
 

A_Davison

Registered User
Fronts are a bit more corroded than the rears but all have it. So far as I said earlier, I've done about 1000 miles commuting around 40miles a trip to work on a mixture of A roads and M (to give you an idea of speed/brake cycle), this was before the cold snap and salt was down on the roads too. I've had no other issues and I plan on painting that part anyway


Thanks, were you able to keep the rear stone/heat guards with the oversized discs or did you find another solution?

A
 

ArrEssDrei

Registered User
My Reylands are bright orange having sat for 3 days without driving. It really aggravates me TBH. With the price of them I expected some coating on the centre area and the outside edge/vents, or to be stainless and never rust. They rust as bad as the factory brakes, which is one of the reasons I replaced them... Any ideas on how to paint the inner area by the bell (in the car) without making a big mess of it and the calliper? Are there any better options for replacement discs on the Reyland carriers that won't rust?
 

Ross_T_Boss

Registered User
Any performance disc is going to be some form of cast iron, and will rust. I'd think trying that spray paint some discs ship coated with, that the pad wears through, could be an idea to protect that inner bit and the tops (just mask up the bell). I think you could get away with 2mm less on the spacer they supply too which would minimise it, the pad sits just over the top of the disc as it is. Or you could stump up and go carbon I guess, if aesthetics are that important?

I'm running Carbotechs and the pad transfer seems to help - they are well bedded in right now, sat for a couple of weeks now with no orange over the face - and the high temps from giving it a good spanking seem to clean off any corrosion too

Re: the rear 350mm required modification, it's simply a need to drill out the threaded caliper carriers with a 12mm bit. I bought an HSS bit and can of lube for the job, took about 5mins per hole.
 

Alli_RR

Registered User
Thanks, were you able to keep the rear stone/heat guards with the oversized discs or did you find another solution?

A

Not sure mate, youd be better speaking to Dave henderson (dh automotive) who supplied/installed them for the technical stuff! Sorry bud
 

Alli_RR

Registered User
My Reylands are bright orange having sat for 3 days without driving. It really aggravates me TBH. With the price of them I expected some coating on the centre area and the outside edge/vents, or to be stainless and never rust. They rust as bad as the factory brakes, which is one of the reasons I replaced them... Any ideas on how to paint the inner area by the bell (in the car) without making a big mess of it and the calliper? Are there any better options for replacement discs on the Reyland carriers that won't rust?

Should be an easy job with the wheels off to mask off the bell and put a little Hammerite or similar with a rust inhibitor on there. I know what you mean but I'll sort mine aesthetically when the weather picks up, as long as they are performing as expected I dont really mind
 

Ross_T_Boss

Registered User
Thanks, were you able to keep the rear stone/heat guards with the oversized discs or did you find another solution?

A

Answer on this is yes. The rear caliper bracket pushes it outboard about 10mm, and the disc hat of course to match. As a result it bolts on with no requirement to modify or remove the rear guard, and I had a few mm clearance to it still.
 

Alli_RR

Registered User
Best spray or brush it on do you think?

Im just going to use a brush tbh, a small artists brush (one of those flat ones) should do the trick. Ive already bought a tin of smooth Hammerite in silver. Doesnt need to be perfect as long as a passing look makes it unnoticeable and I'll be happy
 
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