REVO settings using a SPS 3

[CycleSi]

I was wondering what settings you are using?

I've played around with several settings, but still get "fluttering/very slight hesitation" particularly in 3rd gear hard acceleration. It feels like the ECU is pulling back the timing a little. I'm fully aware this had been discussed countless times already but someone might be able to advise?

l have now "backed off" all 3 modes to 6, 6 and 6, but the performance has dropped off - the boost isn't as aggressive.

My understanding is the 3 modes are as follows:

Mode 3 = Boost
Mode 4 = Fuel
Mode 5 = Timing

I've heard that REVO remaps can "overfuel" but don't know how true that is.

I'd like max power with aggressive boost - not worried about fuel economy. I think 6 is the standard default?

Anyone had the same issues and have you cured/improved it by playing with your SPS 3.

 

[campbell]

my settings i use in cold weather are:

mode 3: boost: 9 (max) turn it down to 6 in warmer weather
mode 4: fuel 6 i think to run on v-power
mode 5: timing 6 (cold weather) turn it down to 5 in wamer weather

if you have slight hesitation, does a the yellow engine management light flash on the dash? if so you may it could be either spark plugs, or a coilpack. if its a coilpack you will really notice a performance loss. i have had both!

have you access to VAG.com cos if brings up an error with a cylinder, or mutiple cylinders missfiring that means the sparkplugs need replacing. Buy NGK ones at about 6 quid each, dont buy bosch there crap.

hope i have helped you

 

[CycleSi]

I think l'll increase the Boost setting one point at a time and see what happens.

l don't have the "yellow engine management light flash on the dash".

l've replaced the plugs with new NGK's fairly recently. It doesn't feel as 'obvious' as an actual misfire so don't think it is a coilpack(s) though l can't be certain l suppose.

l also recently fitted a Samco induction hose (the one that is supposed to collapse) and that hasn't made any difference.

 

[voorhees]

samco don't collapse you mean

 

[CycleSi]

Sorry, l mean to say the hose that is 'supposed' to collapse has been replaced with a Samco.

But, it made no difference !!!

 

[campbell]

i have samco TIP and upper boost hoses and they dont make no difference in power in my opinion, maybe the revs flow more freely!? they just tart the engine bay up

 

[RevoKev]

Hey guys, so you're aware you only have Boost and Timing adjustability on your cars. The A/F isn't adjustable.
So CycleSi you'll be running B6, T6.
Revo remaps don't overfuel, if your car is overfuelling it's likely you've an issue with a leak or faulty lambda probe.
Have you actually set the car up properly or just guessed? http://www.revotechnik.com/products/pdf/SPS3_advancedUserGuide060406.pdf

I've seen this issue when you have a split or sticking DV, I don't know what you've got on there but if it's aftermarket it might need servicing or a harder spring putting in. Could be a faulty N249 valve, try running the DV of intake manifold pressure to test it!
Any vaccuum leaks could cause similar issues.

 

[CycleSi]

Thanks for your detailed reply Kev.

Firstly, with a SPS3 l thought you could adjust mode 4 which is 'fuel' (my SPS3 is 2 years old and doesn't look like the latest one).
If it isn't adjustable, what setting do you suggest l leave it on or doesn't it matter?

l haven't had the car set up properly but l do know that nothing has appeared when hooked up to vag.com diagnostics.

l had Fontain Motors fit a brand new Milltek Hyperboost DV when they installed the Revo remap so l assume that is ok?
Could a harder spring help perhaps?

Please excuse my ignorance but l don't know what a N249 valve is?

Starting at mode 3 - Boost - setting 6, l was going to increase it one point at a time until the "fluttering/holding back" began and then back it off one. Then, do the same with mode 5 - Timing, until l find the best result.

Do you think that is a reasonable way to do it or are there any other (better) ways of trying to sort it out. l know there are several other people who will be following this post as it seems to be a common "issue" with the 1.8 turbo S3 engine and Revo remaps.

Thank you on behalf of everyone !

Hey guys, so you're aware you only have Boost and Timing adjustability on your cars. The A/F isn't adjustable.
So CycleSi you'll be running B6, T6.
Revo remaps don't overfuel, if your car is overfuelling it's likely you've an issue with a leak or faulty lambda probe.
Have you actually set the car up properly or just guessed? http://www.revotechnik.com/products/pdf/SPS3_advancedUserGuide060406.pdf

I've seen this issue when you have a split or sticking DV, I don't know what you've got on there but if it's aftermarket it might need servicing or a harder spring putting in. Could be a faulty N249 valve, try running the DV of intake manifold pressure to test it!
Any vaccuum leaks could cause similar issues.

 

[S3IZZO]

My 8L S3 has slight hesitation under full load in certain circumstances, I haven't considered messing with the settings via SPS3.

 

[RevoKev]

S3izzo, unless you're running too much timing it's unlikely to be related to settings... possibly plugs though!

CycleSi, the fuel setting is only applicable on the later TFSI, higher spec normally aspirated and Porsche applications. It doesn't do anything on 1.8t cars, doesn't matter where you leave it!
The N249 valve is the DV solenoid, it basically controls the DV so if it's faulty it can cause the same symptoms as a split DV... fluttering and hesitation. You can bypass the valve and run the DV off intake manifold pressure to test whether the valve is at fault. I.e. if the problem isn't there with the valve bypassed, that's your problem!
I've never used a hyperboost valve but I hear they're fine, however I've had to run various different springs in Forge valves to suit different cars and prevent hestitation. One of the most comman things is the vacuum pipe on top of the DV not sealing properly or being pinched shut as it rubs on the engine cover. Quite comman when someone calls to say their software is at fault!!!
Without the use of VAGCom advancing the settings from low levels is a good way to set the car up, once you start to feel it holding back pull the settings back one. However it doesn't allow you to monitor the load values from the ECU that you'd be able to see with VAGCom... this would tell you whether the car is pulling back and indicate a fault somewhere.
We've run a couple of S3's from here and never had hesitation problems! I hope this helps.

 

[S3IZZO]

S3izzo, unless you're running too much timing it's unlikely to be related to settings... possibly plugs though!

It's never bothered me too much anyway, it's very intermittent - it's not a go at Revo's maps as I wouldn't have had my new S3 mapped with you guys if I thought it was a problem. :icon_thumright:

PM on it's way to you.

 

[jm-baker]

I have a 8L S3, Had it Revo'd a few months back, and a few days after the map i started to notice a hesitation mostly in 3rd / 4th gear.

From 3000 to 5000 rpm seems to come in 3 shoves, in 3rd mostly.

I have recently replace the MAF meter, and serviced my forge DV.

Plotting via vagcom shows nothing unusual, except the boost tails off from the requested quite alot from about 4000rpm. No CF's tho, or miss fires.

Keep meaning to try track it down, just not had the time!

Any ideas plesae?

See graph, B2 T6 (old style SPS3).

[URL="http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/3230/mafrevohb2t6fullli3.jpg"][URL="http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/3230/mafrevohb2t6fullli3.jpg"][/URL][/URL]

 

[RevoKev]

Have you checked the condition of your plugs?
There are numerous possibles for the candidate: a vac. leak, N249 valve, or a boost leak would be the comman ones to look for. You could test the N249 by running a vac line from the intake manifold directly to the DV (bypassing the N249), you'd want to block the N249 though. If that's at fault it can sporadically open and close the DV causing fluctuation.
I hope this helps.

 

[creepy800]

Hi JM,

When I had my hesitation issues I remember someone mentioning the Turbo Intake Pipe as a possible culprit, so perhaps change that if it continues. The other thing is that the lower my car was on oil the worse the problem became, so keeping the oil to the highest safe level may also make it seem less pronounced.

Hope this helps.