Return with my Silver TQS

Don't stress on the mapping yet mate. I'm still hoping to help you there once Sean has sorted the map pack for me. Problem with pulling favours is playing second fiddle to other folk.
 
aragorn said:
pic needed really, sometimes it looks a bit out but its just the way the belt tension has been taken up.
Click to expand...
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But will you not need the auxhillary belt pulley off at the bottom to see the timing marks clearly on the crank end?
 
Yeah, I haven't got that far though cause Euros are unreliable, they sent me the kit eventually and it come with a Dayco belt and a INA belt?
And the prop on the water pump is a hard type plastic, not metal lol
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It might well be a tooth out, but you need to move the crank to the pointer and see.

If the cranks on the pointer and the cam is within half a tooth then its right.

As for the timing belt, i only ever use Contitech CT919K4.

I think those belts are both the same? Why did they send two?
 
audi upgrades
I dunno Aragorn, our euros round here are just unless when it comes to specific parts for my car, and I suspect it is out.
I've asked for advice next door at Halfords autocentre cause I get on really well with them boys but no one's really giving me a specific answer, I think they're treating it like it's okay like any other customers car, where as this is my own car and want it to be bang on with everything

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aragorn said:
It might well be a tooth out, but you need to move the crank to the pointer and see.

If the cranks on the pointer and the cam is within half a tooth then its right.

As for the timing belt, i only ever use Contitech CT919K4.

I think those belts are both the same? Why did they send two?
Click to expand...
Is it alright to send you some pictures tomorrow to see if you think the timing has jumped or is out?

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yeh sure.

Both of those belts crossreference with the CT919, so they are the correct belt, no idea why they've sent you two though.
 
kinda hard to see, but usually theres a pointer or mark on the bottom pulley that IIRC points straight towards the sump flange when its at TDC.

Theres appears to be a white line that lines up with the round hole on the alloy cover at the top. Not sure if thats original or someones added it.

The official procedure only deals with the outer pulley and the plastic cover. The reality is the pulley locating pin has slack in it, so you can swing the pulley about half a tooth, and thus its possible for the pulley to be slightly out. I've typically found the bottom sprocket usually has identifying marks on it that can be used instead.
 
Oh sorry here's the bottom mark
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aragorn said:
kinda hard to see, but usually theres a pointer or mark on the bottom pulley that IIRC points straight towards the sump flange when its at TDC.

Theres appears to be a white line that lines up with the round hole on the alloy cover at the top. Not sure if thats original or someones added it.

The official procedure only deals with the outer pulley and the plastic cover. The reality is the pulley locating pin has slack in it, so you can swing the pulley about half a tooth, and thus its possible for the pulley to be slightly out. I've typically found the bottom sprocket usually has identifying marks on it that can be used instead.
Click to expand...
But the car ran okay...

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Yeh, it very likely will do if its a tooth out.

If you crack off the four small bolts on the pulley, so the big pulley can move independently of the little one, i'm sure you'll find that it lines up just fine once rotated around a bit.
 
Timing belt done, did a mini service too, oil and plugs she's running a little better tbh, also managed to fix the OS bumper sage with two feet on the wheel and brute force of bending lol

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Could it not be the crank pulley that has slipped as these are a dampened pulley arent they did mark not have issues with a pulley when timing up his motor ?
 
Bradderz_1988 said:
Could it not be the crank pulley that has slipped as these are a dampened pulley arent they did mark not have issues with a pulley when timing up his motor ?
Click to expand...
It's all back together now running, I think it's running better tbh definitely sounds much better without the sqeek in the morning, but the crank pull was out by about half a tooth


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Currently at a stand still with the Audi, it's running so well, trying to source a cheapo daily to commute to and from work so I can take my time with the while conversion

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BBT adapter plate
162417118949

Ko4-064 turbo
162417116902

ONO for anyone here though, can include a few silicone pipes and bends

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Only got the adapter plate left now if anyone was interested

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I'll give that an oooo and an ahhhh and a I'm thinking about it.
 
Going cheapo

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I'm having slight running issues, when the car is up to temp, it idles all over the gaff, sometimes almost cutting out, but it's very intermittent, anyone else had this issue?

First thing is I'm gonna check under the inlet to see if any pipes or hoses are split then process of elimination

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MAF, coils, or vac leak. Ttweakers has a good trouble shooting guide.
 
audi upgrades
Went to the Scrappy yesterday and managed to grab a few Me7 bits

I've got a BAM Inlet manifold, with fuel rail, injectors and FPR if anyone is interested

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Yeah I did Aragorn, but I managed to get these bits for free providing I could get them off

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Thought I'd change up a little bit...
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When it comes to converting to Me7, can I use majority of things from a APU Passat?
I can a whole Passat for £200 and it runs well

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Yes, that's what I did but I also swapped the engine, the APU is narrowband so you don't get the full benefit of ME7 but it can be added on later.
 
I have an AWT a6 which is ME7 wideband and an APU a6 which is narrowband, not sure if it's ME7 or not. Desertstormer got the wiring diagrams for me if you what I can throw them up here if you want or maybe you already have them. The APU engine runs with the AWT ecu in it just not as well as with it's own.
 
Phil_R said:
Yes, that's what I did but I also swapped the engine, the APU is narrowband so you don't get the full benefit of ME7 but it can be added on later.
Click to expand...
How come the engine?

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APU is ME7.1 AWT is ME7.5

Primary difference is wideband lambda control, but there are other detail differences like different MAF sensors etc.

If i had an APU car i'm not sure i'd really bother swapping over to wideband. Obviously if your converting from scratch then you might as well.

If your using an APU harness and want ME7.5, you need to add some pins to the plug for the lambda sensor.
 
aragorn said:
APU is ME7.1 AWT is ME7.5

Primary difference is wideband lambda control, but there are other detail differences like different MAF sensors etc.

If i had an APU car i'm not sure i'd really bother swapping over to wideband. Obviously if your converting from scratch then you might as well.

If your using an APU harness and want ME7.5, you need to add some pins to the plug for the lambda sensor.
Click to expand...
Yeah I'm gonna collect the APU donor soon, it's an estate and start take some stuff off

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