Retrofitting Boot Release Button Wiring


Registered User
Looking to retrofit the boot release button to a B8 avant.
The car doesn't have auto open/close and wont have going forward. Just looking to be able to pop the boot lid from inside the car.

Following this thread for a Q5 install

Can anyone post the same wire diagram for the A4 / S4 b8 as I think sometimes wiring differs from Q5 to A4.

Has anyone done this? Would appreciate any advice on cutting the door card hole for the switch.

Parts for B8 (used 7 Zap website)
Boot release switch: 8K0959831A [E188 on wire diagram]
Trim for swich 8K0959830 7PE (soul black)
4 Pin plug: Unknown part number - Available to buy on its own here

Quote from above thread
Wiring to the rear lid remote release switch (E188) 4 pin on drivers door

Switch Connector E188 Pin 1 and Pin 2 (brown 0.35) - blue T32j plug Pin 5 (ground cable / solder)
Switch Connector E188 Pin 3 (blue brown 0.35) - Blue T32j plug Pin 4 (solder)
Switch Connector E188 Pin 4 (pink 0.35) - Blue T32j plug Pin 23 (pin needed)

(where he says solder I imagine this means there are existing wires in that pin so the wire needs to be tapped)


A6 C6 4F 2010 LeMans Avant
I am in the process of doing same thing on my A6 Avant but going the boring way to it.

Have already wired the cables from the tailgate, tapped in to handle switch. They will run over the headliner (next project in the process) and down to the A pillar.
Got the cables already through the drivers door hinge and to the door card.
Red lit up button will be connected to it and placed in the door card pocket, like oem.

Tailgate struts will be on pop springs so when release button is pressed from the key or inside of the car, it will pop the boot fully open.

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Registered User
Did this wiring today and indeed it worked first time. I took the ground from the crash sensor but there's others like the door lock switch you could use. Next I need to cut the hole for the switch to sit which I'm slightly apprehensive about doing but have a bunch of hand saws and files so hopefully will look like a nice finish if done carefully.

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Registered User
Managed to cut the hole ok for the switch to sit. It was actually very soft and a Stanley blade did the majority of the work.
It probably needs a tiny amount more filing to sit perfectly but I'm now at the point where I'm sure I'll slip and go beyond where I need to go and make it look terrible so will probably leave it there. Because its a curved surround its quite hard to pinpoint the position before you start for it to sit 100% flush on all edges. Also the door cards that are made for these switches have a recess around the edges so they sit a little more flush but I think it looks ok as is.

Also update to my post above - I missed (from my own post at the top) that the Pins 1 and 2 go to Pin 5 (ground) of the T32 blue plug (spliced). I re-did my wiring to take that Pin 5 ground.

Door card.jpg

Blank door card below showing OEM hole cut out.
door card blank.jpg