Replacing engine mounts....DIY job?

I got it off ebay listed for the 130pd manual box, but it was obviously listed incorrectly. You can buy just the bush on its own, as they are the same for most boxes from the looks of it.
 
No idea mate as mines a six speed, but I would imagine the bush part is the same on all of them with a different mount to suite each box.

You will be able to see the bush on the car if you jack it up mate to double check.
 
Any videos of before and after im getting a knock and a clutch slip feeling in 1st pretty sure its the mounts.ive got a video ill upload see what you think.
 
I found this,is it cheap and ok? How much is the genuine ones?
 
Just ordered a Febi gearbox bush for £13.21. Use the Febi parts link from earlier in the thread and find the correct part number for your car then stick the number into your favourite online auction site and hey presto!

For reference mines a 2004 2.5tdi Quattro 6sp manual and the Febi part number is 34145.
 
Well mines in for its new clutch now and also getting the gearbox mounts changed too. So hopefully nice improvement! :)
 
Well Audi say cant get gearbox mounts for our cars anymore as parts have been superseded. And to buy superseded parts you have to buy a new cradle for over £300 haha!
 
Well just replaced both engine mounts along with the gearbox mount.

2004 2.5tdi Quattro avant, both original engine mounts were sensor versions. Replaced both with the non-sensor version and will be cutting out the sensors in due course. Had the front end of the car off to do the timing belt anyway so the job was a doddle. Lifted the engine slightly using the front mount/snub mount bracket and released one at a time. N/S was tight for space given all the gubbens around but with some wiggling it's doable.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1441827325511340


Old vs new, the old one is obviously bulging and shot.

Gearbox mount looked like a doddle...

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1441827397475188


Two 13mm nuts and a T45 bolt yeah? No! There is a nut for the other end of the bolt and it's NOT captive so spent about 3 hours trying to get the upper part of the mount off the gearbox then get the upper and rubber bushing back in complete. Again, lots of wiggling and a few bruised knuckles and it was in.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1441827801436676


Old vs new

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1441827820829164


Upper mount bracket.

So with it all replaced the engine and transmission are definitely better held, there's virtually no judder on take-off on hills as I used to experience. Gear selection is also more pronounced. But as has been mentioned by others - swapping from the £200 hydro plug-in mounts to the cheaper mounts does transfer more pronounced vibration into the cabin, it's not unbearable and I don't spend much time sitting idling so it doesn't bother me but it is noticeable.

Frank
 
Hi, I'm trying to diagnose a couple of problems with my B6 which I think may be down to the engine mounts so I'm interested to hear if anyone here has had similar symptoms. I have a clunking/knocking noise that mainly occurs in 1st/2nd gear when accelerating or letting off the throttle, however it isn't affected by bumps in the road etc and there is only a single knock/clunk each gear change. Secondly the car seems to 'struggle' to reverse uphill, even a slight uphill requires more torque than usual and the car makes a strained grumbling sort of sound. Both of these problems have got progressively worse over the past 12 months. When scanning for fault codes, code P1586 Engine Mount Solenoid Valves (N144/N145): Short to plus shows up, I understand this solenoid helps to reduce engine vibration when idling however the car is fine when idling.

Is it likely that these symptoms and the fault code point towards an engine mount problem or could it be something else entirely?

Thanks, Joe
 
Hate to bring this up again

1.9 5speed mount is absolute shagged, but there's still confusion

I NEED one tomorrow, and ecp don't seem to very good, and someone mention Audi don't do them any more , shall I try tps?

I know il go for a4 1.9 1999 model engine mounts

Where's the best place to get them ??
 
joegraham said:
Is it likely that these symptoms and the fault code point towards an engine mount problem or could it be something else entirely?
Click to expand...

Hi Joe,
I've not had the exact symptoms you're describing but I can only assume that a singular knock into each gear would be mounts, yes.

Seeing as you're getting the fault code (therefore need to change them eventually anyway) you might as well do them and see whether that solves it.

Can you determine where the knock is coming from or just the front somewhere?
 
Hi, thanks for the reply.

I've just been out in the car again and the noise seems to have changed, my girlfriend uses the car through the week and I don't drive it all that much at the minute so hadn't driven it in a while. The noise now seems to be more of a few grumbling/rubbing/clunking noise and it's most exaggerated if you are driving along in 2nd, then dip the clutch and let it back out, you can really feel the car jerk on each 'grumble'.

Initially it sounded like the noise was coming from the centre of the car near the back of the engine but now its harder to distinguish, also I can't replicate the noise whilst the car is stationary and there doesn't seem to excessive movement in the engine. Would any of these symptoms be consistent with a failing DMF?

Thanks again, Joe
 
Are the gearbox mounts universal across the B6 engines or do they differ? I found a Febi mount on eBay but its listed as only being compatible with the 2.5Tdi and 1.8T 6 speed cars? If they differ does anyone know the part number for the 1.9Tdi 5 speed?

Thanks, Joe
 
Hi, thanks for that link, I checked it out and it seems that the Febi mount I'd found wouldn't fit although it looks identical to the one on my car. I'll have to go for the more expensive one which includes the bracket as thats the same as the one listed on the Febi database for my car. I'd be interested to know what the difference was!
 
Did you check the 'used in vehicles' tab for the mount on the Febi site, it will probably list the 1.8 and other engines too for your chassis. As above I'd be surprised if there was any difference in the rubber bushes but best to check.
 
Yeah I thought they would all be the same but apparently not, I double checked the Febi website and looked under that tab but no luck. From what I can see there may be differences between 5 and 6 speed gearboxes? I've ended up ordering the more expensive mount being listed as correct for the 1.9 Tdi 5 speed so hopefully it fits.
 
Had a nosey at my original engine mounts it spears to be Avon...

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1443647224107094


Can't make out any obvious manufacturers markings on the gearbox mount...

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1443647284171497


As with many of these parts I wouldn't be surprised if there are multiple suppliers for original parts though.
 
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Browsing the mrs avon book now :blink:
 
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Wondering if any body could help
I've got a 2003 Audi A4 estate 2.5 tdi Quattro
130k
Scanned the car and come back with engine mount fault code
The mounts are really expensive,
Where is the best place for the mounts thanks in advance
 
Where have you tried so far? TPS are cheaper than Audi usually. Unfortunately yours are the most expensive type with them incorporating the sensor/solenoid :(
 
Check out post number 92 I replaced both active engine mounts with far cheaper passive mounts and saved a few bob.

Frank
 
Jimmy TDI said:
Some came out of the factory with one, and some with two, mine has one on both sides.
The ones from euro etc won't come with sensors, only the genuine hydro mounts from Audi will come with sensors.

I don't know how successful cutting the sensors out of the old mounts will be, as don't they need to sense the fluid to work? You can buy plug in resistors from 034 motorsport that they sell to accompany their solid mounts.
Whatever you do you will only ever get a code when scanning the car, nothing will come up on the dash.
Click to expand...
I have engine light on with fault code showing as engine mount. Does anyone know the part numbers for the proper Audi parts? I dont want the warning light on. Mine is 2004 2.5 Quattro thanks
 
AvantQuattroUK said:
I have engine light on with fault code showing as engine mount. Does anyone know the part numbers for the proper Audi parts? I dont want the warning light on. Mine is 2004 2.5 Quattro thanks
Click to expand...

8EO199379AF is left hand non-wired
8E0199379E is right hand wired

Check your left hand mount before removal, if it has the sensor/solenoid wiring present then you need two of the 8E0199379E
 
Hi all, I'm hoping for some help with my engine mounts,

I replaced the right hand side/drivers side hydro-mount on Sunday on my 2004 B6 1.9tdi (AVF) FWD.
It has solved the slack and clunking when changing gear (the old mount had basically no fluid left) but now I get significant engine vibrations transmitted through to the cabin, especially at idle.

I picked the new mount up from GSF, so it's not a genuine mount, but I'm not convinced that is the problem (they are just sacks of fluid after all). I think it's more likely I have done something wrong.

It seemed more difficult than it should have been to tighten the top nut, to the point where I thought I could be cross threading it. I checked and re-checked that I wasn't and put this down to the pre-applied thread-lock-gunk on the new mount. I'm not 100% though, as this was blind from underneath.

Taking a look at the online parts catalogues, I see that there should be a washer between the top of the mount and the underside of the engine bracket (#13 in the diagram): http://www.realoem.me/Audi/RDW/A4/2004/249/R/1/199/199010#13
I did not find one on my old mount when I took it off, and I didn't notice one drop down.

Can anyone confirm the presence of this washer, where it was when they changed their mounts, and a part number/dimensions?

Beyond that, any ideas?

I'm going to redo the job to double check everything anyway, but I wondered whether anyone could tell what is likely to have gone wrong.
 
In case anyone else find themselves in the same position: The engine mount washers are M8 30mm wide and 1.6mm (ish) thick.

Adding the washer(s) helped but didn't completely solve my issue: I previously inspected my LEFT mount (the one with a solenoid) and found it didn't show signs of leaking. I wanted to change one thing at a time, so I just changed my right/drivers side.

When I re-did the right side mount, I found a significant amount of red fluid under the left mount. I am pretty sure this is because I jacked up the engine with the left still connected to make it easier (as per earlier posts in this thread) to change the right mount. My guess is the extra pressure/pulling/squeezing on the left mount caused fluid to be forced from the mount.

So, a WARNING: If you leave one mount connected, it will make changing the other easier, but (especially if your mounts are old) you risk rupturing/making-worse the mount you leave connected. This is fine if you're changing both and it did make changing the right mount easy.
I suspect that loosening the bottom (or top, if you like a challenge) nut on my left mount would have reduced the risk of damaging it when changing the right.
Hopefully this helps someone in the future.

So, I need a left mount!
I'm keen to keep the solenoid, if possible, but of course I don't want to pay Audi prices!

I've found that Febi make an aftermarket left mount with the solenoid, but it's only for the 2.5tdi.
Will these work for the 1.9tdi?

Does anyone know of an aftermarket option (that keeps the solenoid)?
 
Digging up threads again.
Ready to lift engine to do drivers side (UK).
Not sure if I should lift on RH side of sump, the 3.0Tdi had a really wide sump, or lift on the front snubber.
Not too thrilled about jacking on the sump.
Thoughts.
Also with clearance being poor around the mount would it be easier to drop the lower bracket, albeit the anti-roll bar is clamped to it.
Thanks
 
piglet14 said:
Digging up threads again.
Ready to lift engine to do drivers side (UK).
Not sure if I should lift on RH side of sump, the 3.0Tdi had a really wide sump, or lift on the front snubber.
Not too thrilled about jacking on the sump.
Thoughts.
Also with clearance being poor around the mount would it be easier to drop the lower bracket, albeit the anti-roll bar is clamped to it.
Thanks
Click to expand...

How did you get on with you drivers side engine mount? I'm picking up a code that mine need doing!
 
piglet14 said:
Digging up threads again.
Ready to lift engine to do drivers side (UK).
Not sure if I should lift on RH side of sump, the 3.0Tdi had a really wide sump, or lift on the front snubber.
Not too thrilled about jacking on the sump.
Thoughts.
Also with clearance being poor around the mount would it be easier to drop the lower bracket, albeit the anti-roll bar is clamped to it.
Thanks
Click to expand...

On the 1.9tdi, the snub mount is bolted to the sump anyway, so there is no advantage to jacking on the snub mount vs spreading the weight with soft wood across a wide area of the sump. Thinking about it, it is possible that the snub mount is not engineered to take the full weight of the engine (just the forces normally imparted during use), which would indicate that jacking on the sump with the load spread might be safer.
I can only speak with experience of the 1.9tdi however.

If I recall correctly, on the 1.9tdi, dropping the lower bracket requires precise realignment using the provided holes (and an appropriate round stock/drill bit/tube-thing) when bolting back up. This dissuaded me from going down this route.

Chopping off as much of the threads above and below the old mount as possible will help reduce the amount you have to lift the engine to get the mount out, if jacking on the sump concerns you. Likewise, trimming the threads on the new mount down will make installation easier.
 
Looking at Curtis524's car list it says 3.0tdi, this being the case, yes I did mine, bit of cussing but not impossible and I didn't have to resort to shortening the studs. I got it all back in then realised the top stub had dropped sideways!!! Son had to assist with alignment.
What I thought was the lower bracket was actually part of the subframe so as I wound out the bolts it all just lowered so I could actually release the bracket.
However I did manage to push it out the way enough to get the engine mount through the gap.
Next time I will investigate supporting the subframe as well. this time I had a jack on a foam pad on the O/S of the sump pan and a jack with a timber T-piece on the snubber. This gave good control & safety without overloading the sump, which looks expensive.
What brand mount did you buy? Is it solid or fluid?
 
piglet14 said:
What brand mount did you buy? Is it solid or fluid?
Click to expand...

For the LHS "active" mount I bit the bullet and got an OEM part. My RHS non-active mount was some cheap no-name aftermarket thing from Eurocarparts, although it appeared to be fluid filled at least.

With hindsight, I regret buying that particular aftermarket mount. It is my opinion that it has caused more engine vibration to be transmitted through the body/chassis, especially at idle. It may be that a more reputable aftermarket brand would be fine.
 
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