Replacing engine mounts....DIY job?

Need mine done
So are people getting them from carparts4less for diesels?
 
No problem...........i like the way you are practicing on a "mates" car LOL
 
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Just out of curiosity, what are people's mileage for replacing these im on 98k and think my drivers side has gone
 
I'll be doing mine this weekend at 148k, and that's then the last two original bushes on the front end changed out for new.
 
You think yours are original?
Im a little concerned im on 98k to your mileage.
 
Mine were leaking at 60k when I did the last year.

I think Miles don't play much in it as motorway miles don't put a lot of strain on them, in my case age has made the rubber bush and chamber become hard and more brittle/pron to cracking then leaking.
 
mine looks to have had a new one on drivers side. original passenger side is well passed it on 143k. seems a must do job on our age cars

mike how did you deal with the left over connector on the passenger side?
 
I have a full and extensive history with my car, and there is no mention of them being changed.

It was a reps motorway warrior for its first 3 years, then bought by them as a second car so it's had a pretty easy life.
 
I have sensors on both of mine. At the moment I have just zip tied them up but get an error logged on vcds.

I plan to cut the sensor part off the old mounts, and plug that part in again too give some feedback to the ECU.....then zip tie again.

This seems to work for people
 
I think i have only 1 sensor and its the passenger side.how are they meant to be?
do the new ones come with a sensor in.
 
Some came out of the factory with one, and some with two, mine has one on both sides.
The ones from euro etc won't come with sensors, only the genuine hydro mounts from Audi will come with sensors.

I don't know how successful cutting the sensors out of the old mounts will be, as don't they need to sense the fluid to work? You can buy plug in resistors from 034 motorsport that they sell to accompany their solid mounts.
Whatever you do you will only ever get a code when scanning the car, nothing will come up on the dash.
 
i have just heard that cutting the sensor part off and plugging it back in, stops the error coming back or a resistor can be used which some Motorsport kits can provide also.
 
They are basically are a resistor in casing for £25 a sensor. To me I am going to chop the sensor off both of mine and it ends up as a free mod instead of £50 :)
 
PMSL

That sounds like a better deal:haudrauf:
 
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Well got home dug out the old mount and used a saw to cut the sensor part off, plugged in and zip tied to a secure place.

Yet to drive the car, but will clear faults with vcds and monitor.
 
Those are the ones I was taking about.

Let us know if it works Mike, as I've seen people say to do it, but none of them have actually done it ha ha. I may be wrong, but my thinking would be that there needs to be fluid around them to work as they set the code off once the fluid has drained.
 
It is only connected by a couple of legs to the mount with a gap inbetween, so no electrical contact between the two.

Can only assume that the fluid pushes out a pin that the sensor picks up as there is a pressure switch from what I could make out........been for a drive since and plugged back in with no errors reported.
 
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Mine has 202k on now so mine will desperately need doing

I would like oem with a sensor but no way I'm paying Audi prices
And with it being a diesel I don't want solid mounts too

So I guess il have to live without the sensor which I suppose is no biggy as its been throwing up a fault code since I've owned the car
 
When I looked at my 60k mile one and shaked, the fluid inside was sloping about like a half fillies bottle and just did not feel right compared to a new one.

The B5 ones for your the corresponding engine work great
 
EDIT - The B5 ones for your corresponding engine work great
 
Right ive changed both and snub it drives mint nice and tight and no vibrating when pulling away. But i now get a vibrating when i use reverse.... ive readjusted the snub and its made it wose if anything. Ant ideas?
 
Scrap the above its doing it going forward to so the mount change hasnt solved my problem of vibrating when pulling away... no idea whats caslusing this...
 

Clutch and DMF are new replaced less than a year ago...

LUK kit. Its been back to garage about it as i though it might of been clutch and LUK stated if it was clutch or DMF the problem should happen all the time. Not just after an hours driving.
 
Right guys I've looked on euro and carparts4less and no joy

I have a 1.9 saloon 5 speed manual and would like the prices of all the mounts of anyone could help that would be great .......been a long day lol
 
Right guys I've looked on euro and carparts4less and no joy

I have a 1.9 saloon 5 speed manual and would like the prices of all the mounts of anyone could help that would be great .......been a long day lol

I paid about 54 quid from Euro for 2 B5 mounts and a Lemforder Snub.
 
That's not bad tbh plus a gearbox mount

Think il add it to the list of ever growing parts lol
 
You can get the gearbox mount for circa £20 off ebay.
 
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No worries mate, I found out I could have saved myself £20 by just buying the bush part when I did mine.

Here's a how to I did on the gearbox mount which might help someone out as it tells you the sizes of all the nuts you will need tools for.

I spent a few hours on the car to change the rear gearbox mount, and a couple of other bits today.

I was hoping it might have been the cause of a knock I'm getting on shutdown so I don't have to change the engine mounts just yet, as they're £139.51 & £118.72 which after just laying out £400 on insurance I could do without.

The rear gearbox mount is only £40 and I've been planning on changing it since I did the front one so I thought I would take a punt on it first. It has improved it, and vastly improved the feel of gear changes, but the knock is still there so I'm going to have to bite the bullet on the engine mounts.

Anyway on to the job in hand which isn't hard at all

This is what the nice new one looks like



It's hidden away behind the rear under tray so that has to come off first, then you can see it sat sat in the gearbox support bracket.


Now it's time to prop the gearbox up with a block of wood on your jack so it doesn't slap you upside your head halfway through the next step.


The gearbox support bracket is removed by undoing the three 18mm bolts at either end. If you take note you can see where I've been laying frame.................
on speed bumps



Once these six bolts are out there are two 13mm bolts to undo on the mount. I forgot to take a picture at this point as I was in the zone, but I've circled them (poorly) in this picture.


Once they're out the bracket can be pulled down to pop it off of the mount, and slid backwards out of the way along the exhaust.


Once that's moved there are three 13mm bolts holding the mount to the box itself. Again I was in the zone and had removed two of them before taking the photo, but you can see where they were.



It was at this point the **** hit the fan and I began dropping f bombs as I realised I had ordered the wrong part.

Spot the difference


On closer inspection after I had calmed down I noticed the actual bushing was the same, it was just the mounting bracket that was different.

So out came the torx 45, and 16mm bits to pull them both to bits.


I then cleaned the old mounting bracket up with a wire brush before fitting the new bush to it. I had to use the bolt from the old unit as the new one was too long due to the slight difference in design.
There was quite a difference in the bushes just looking at them, but I could also feel a difference by hand when trying to move the gearbox once everything was back together.



Then it's just a case of working backwards to refit everything.
 
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Cheers Jimmy lad
I've already read it lol but I will read it again

It's getting the correct engine mounts is the problem but like said above
Il just get the 1.9 b5 ones
 

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