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Replacing engine mounts....DIY job?

DALE_AVANT Jul 22, 2015

  1. DALE_AVANT

    DALE_AVANT Member Team Brilliant Black TDi Audi A4 Audi A3 Audi Avant Owner Group

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    Hi all.

    As title, are the engine mounts a DIY job, do-able on the driveway.

    Car is an A4 B6 TDI, with hydro mounts IIRC (part numbers anyone?)
     
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  3. Chrismawa

    Chrismawa Active Member

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    Watching this as mine need replacing too!
     
  4. glenandem

    glenandem Active Member

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    Yes very easy, the drivers side can be abit tricky if I remember right getting It out? on a tdi, but basically two nuts top and bottom and jack it it up carefully,pull the old one fit the new one and lower back down tighten up, you could run it then relapsed and re tighten nuts to make sure they sit properly.
     
  5. Mike.M

    Mike.M Well-Known Member

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    As above and I replaced mine (sensors on both for me) with the none sensor version of a B5, just need a resistor or cut the sensor block off the old one and plug back in to stop the fault being logged by VCDS when a scan is done.

    I also reduced the length of the studs as they are very long....makes fitting even easier again.
     
  6. Chrismawa

    Chrismawa Active Member

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    Mike, where did you get the none sensor versions from? How much were they? Cheers.
     
  7. Mike.M

    Mike.M Well-Known Member

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    ECP. Just put in the spec of a 1.9tdi year 2000 B5 A4........exactly the same but no sensor.
     
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  8. Mike.M

    Mike.M Well-Known Member

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  9. vr6gordy

    vr6gordy Well-Known Member

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    I've got 2 drivers side 1.8t ones without sensor if any good
     
  10. glenandem

    glenandem Active Member

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    I used the febi ones off eBay
    Seemed ok to me but I did use a gen on the near side as that had a sensor in and I wanted to keep it as it was!
     
  11. john777w

    john777w Active Member

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    Doesn't the n/s mount with the sensor have oil in which passes between 2 chambers depending on load etc, if you fit the non-sensor type won't you lose this action?
     
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  13. Crispin Glover

    Crispin Glover Member

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    What are the signs of warn engine mounts, and can you purchase uprated poly ones for increased response?
     
  14. john777w

    john777w Active Member

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    red fluid leaking from mount!!
     
  15. Mike.M

    Mike.M Well-Known Member

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    or the alloy part of the mount broken.............poly mount on a TDI would be a no go in my opinion, but you can buy solid alloy ones from the states if I recall
     
  16. Mike.M

    Mike.M Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    and here are the solid alloy ones

    [​IMG]
     
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  17. Crispin Glover

    Crispin Glover Member

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    They bleed???
     
  18. Mike.M

    Mike.M Well-Known Member

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    Yep.........red fluid

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Welshquattro

    Welshquattro Active Member Team Mauritius Audi A4 Audi Avant Owner Group quattro

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    Who makes or sells the alloy mounts Mike?
     
  20. Mike.M

    Mike.M Well-Known Member

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  21. Jimmy TDI

    Jimmy TDI Pro Tinkerer TDi Audi A4 Audi Avant Owner Group

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    You can get THESE ones from Awesome too.
     
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  22. Chrismawa

    Chrismawa Active Member

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  23. Mike.M

    Mike.M Well-Known Member

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    Yes. They are the same for both sides, the drivers side uses the cover provided and the passengers side does not.
     
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  24. Chrismawa

    Chrismawa Active Member

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    Thanks. I think I will order these! :)
     
  25. Mike.M

    Mike.M Well-Known Member

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    There is the EXTRA10 code for another 10% off also
     
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  26. Chrismawa

    Chrismawa Active Member

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    Cheers they've been ordered! Quick question where you mentioned cutting the studs. Does it make it that much easier with them cut?
     
  27. Mike.M

    Mike.M Well-Known Member

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    Yep, but obviously don't take too much off the new ones. You see what I mean about the excess thread length.
     
  28. Chrismawa

    Chrismawa Active Member

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    No lol. Is it that much easier than leaving them full length like?
     
  29. Mike.M

    Mike.M Well-Known Member

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    Yes as you don't have to strain the pipes etc that are connected to the engine to lift it up high enough to remove them
     
  30. Chrismawa

    Chrismawa Active Member

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    Ok great thanks for your help Mike
     
  31. Jimmy TDI

    Jimmy TDI Pro Tinkerer TDi Audi A4 Audi Avant Owner Group

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    I know it's only a few quid saving, but by using code CP5LESS on the carparts4less site you can get these even cheaper.

    [​IMG]
     
  32. Chrismawa

    Chrismawa Active Member

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    How did you get drivers side out. No where near enough room
     
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  34. Ro55

    Ro55 Active Member VCDS Map User

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    You have these @Jimmy TDI ?

     
  35. Jimmy TDI

    Jimmy TDI Pro Tinkerer TDi Audi A4 Audi Avant Owner Group

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    No mate, they would be too harsh on a diesel. My cousin has them on his S4 though.
     
  36. Audi Doodah

    Audi Doodah Active Member

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    A job I have recently done myself and yes, it's doable on the driveway and yes, drivers side is tricky.

    My symptoms since purchasing the car were a big 'jump' (how to describe it better???) when going on/off accelerator heavily...the linked video better illustrates the problem, especially towards the end.

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_ptcn1DGkUwaElGQlpGWXFzWU0/view?usp=sharing

    I also had the fault code present for the passenger side electro mount but could see no evidence of fluid (in hindsight, I'm guessing not having an undertray fitted had washed it all away).

    Not wanting to pay over the odds (+£200) for genuine audi mounts, i did some searching around and found these...

    Febi 21240 Engne Mount

    Now, these are for the 2.4 litre petrol engine but at the low price I thought they'd be worth a punt. I also thought that as I have a Blacksmoke remap that they would better cope with the "extra power".

    When coming to the fitting, I read the various guides and ended up putting the front on ramps then used a jack on the sump to lift the engine (use a block of wood to spread the load) once I'd removed the front snub mount and undone the engine mount securing nuts (TIP don't fully remove the nuts on both sides...slacken all the way off but only remove one side at a time so your engine remains roughly in the right place) . As you VERY SLOWLY jack the engine it has a tendency to tilt towards the drivers side thus making passenger one easier and the drivers that much trickier combined with the restricted access. In an attempt to overcome this problem, I lifted the engine too much and caught a coolant hose at the back of the engine...luckily it was only enough to 'break the seal' on the unions causing minor coolant loss and no damage. In the end, my solution to get the extra clearance for the drivers side was to use a breakers bar to lever the engine back over to the passenger side (a helper to do this would've been great but thankfully, I have long arms!). In hindsight, the suggestion of cutting the threads down would have made it all a lot simpler!

    Mounts resized.jpg

    Obviously, old one on top.

    I've been running the mounts for two months now and my engine no longer rocks about all over the place however, the car feels slightly rough when idling but I feel its a small price to pay (mounts are not matched to the engine yada, yada, yada). Unusually, my slipping clutch has progressively improved to the point where I can no longer make it slip??? If anyone can theorise as to why this could be the case, I'm all ears!
     
  37. Chrismawa

    Chrismawa Active Member

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    I was thinking about trying to lever up the drivers side but couldn't see how there was any room to do it. How did you manage it? What was the condition of your old drivers side in comparison to your old passenger side? My passenger side was absolutely shot (pic below), but from what I could see of drivers side it looked relatively new, was clean and bright silver.

    Old passenger side:

    [​IMG]
     
  38. Audi Doodah

    Audi Doodah Active Member

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    My drivers side mount was in exactly the same, fluid-less, sunken condition but it had the heat shield fitted so didn't know that until I had removed it. Was always going to change both at the same time as it seemed the most sensible thing to do.

    I levered from the top of the engine bay, using the engine lift ring just behind the EGR and levering against the inside of the front wing (again using a wooden block, etc to prevent damage). Like I said, it was tricky and second person would have been better.
     
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  39. Chrismawa

    Chrismawa Active Member

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    Yeah I bought 2 with the intention of doing both but couldn't get the drivers side out. Think I may have to give it another go with your levering technique! Cheers.
     
  40. Mike.M

    Mike.M Well-Known Member

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    It is doable the drivers side, but trimming the studs down will help a lot as mentioned :)
     
  41. Chrismawa

    Chrismawa Active Member

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    No way that would of made a difference on mine. The drivers side hardy moved up at all, and the engine was jacked to max height. The only way will be if I can lever it up and trim studs :)
     
  42. Mike.M

    Mike.M Well-Known Member

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    When jacking are you leaving the passengers side in but loose so the engine can tip/pivot on that point......on the old mount
     
  43. Chrismawa

    Chrismawa Active Member

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    Well I am a dumbass lol Done a mates mounts tonight using this technique for the drivers side and it worked a treat! So be attempting the drivers side on mine again this weekend
     

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