Replacing Broken Clutch Pedal - How to Guide (with pics)

AJC

3rd Gear
Hey AJC thanks for the reply, I got it all mounted as you described but with the pedal all the way back It wouldn't lock out on the bracket! Felt like I was going bust something. So I removed the bolt to let the pedal sit a bit freely and I got the spring in managed to get the bolt through what a mare that was only to discover that it had not located in the recess at the bulkhead and the recess cup had moved up and to the left. So currently back in bits till sat so I will have another go at it. It seems easy enough just going to take my time as it took over four hours for me the first time. The white clip never locked out on the second attempt does this mean the spring wasn't located properly cheers in advance and how will I know if the white clip is upside down? Cheers j

The white clip is symmetrical so will fit either way. However, if you have filed the clip down in order for it to fit then you may need to insert if the correct way round.

From memory I did force the pedal across with reasonable effort to engage behind the lip of the bracket but no longer have the car to check this. Provided the white clip is loose but the pedal attached by the 13mm bolt then you can force the pedal with reasonable force without fear of damage as the master cylinder rod will not be under pressure. Again from memory the brake pedal appears to have a similar lip on the bracket which I guess is used in the same fashion when working on the brake pedal.

Perhaps try positioning the pedal against this lip of the bracket before attaching the bolt or aligning the white clip (master cylinder rod) so that you can see the position required? I can only comment on how my pedal responded and as said, it was quite possible to hold the pedal in an unnaturally high position in order to easily refit the spring.

Good luck
 

Jeepster

Registered User
Cheers AJC!
 

Jeepster

Registered User
All sorted and working cheers would of been lost without this guide!!!
 

harrsf

Registered User
Dont suppose anyone knows the part number for the black plastic bracket which backs into the clutch switch plunger? ive broken this bit on mine but only had the new pedal supplied, no other bits...?
 

mattterhorn

Registered User
AJC a huge thanks
if wasnt for this great and in detail advice I would have a bill for 1500 euro! . i did what you said on this forum apart from the spring alignment as i inserted a piece of string into the spring and then giggled into place before i pulled the pedal and it work.. yippee... your a star from a brit in france with a 50kmile Audi TT w. ps cost including post 75 quid for parts
 
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skathosmike

Registered User
Hi all. I'm new here but glad I found you. My clutch pedal has died as above. My question is, do I need to get the new pedal from Audi or do you know of a cheaper parts outlet? also. do you have a part number for the pedal? any help very much appreciated.
 

Lewisj91

Gotta love Boost
best to just get it from audi, mine had to be special ordered but just make sure you tell them you need all the extra clips cost about £37 for all of it.....also make sure you put the new white clip in hot water otherwise you'll probably be there for a while
 

skathosmike

Registered User
best to just get it from audi, mine had to be special ordered but just make sure you tell them you need all the extra clips cost about £37 for all of it.....also make sure you put the new white clip in hot water otherwise you'll probably be there for a while
Thanks for the info. :)
 

wb155g

Registered User
Hi.my clutch pedal just went photo.jpg found these on the floor. will i have to replace the whole pedal or can i just replace the broken plastics?
 

Arwyn Palmer

Registered User
Hi.my clutch pedal just went View attachment 48388 found these on the floor. will i have to replace the whole pedal or can i just replace the broken plastics?

If there's any metal in that pile then definitely yes, but I would anyway either way as it's obviously weakened now, the bit that breaks on the pedal is the back of the housing that white clip slots into as its a poor design with a weak weld, when I replaced mine I built up the back of that weld with a bit of chemical metal to hopefully make it a bit stronger just make sure you don't get any on the inside or you'll never get the White clip back in and that's hard enough as it is
 

skathosmike

Registered User
Can anyone tell what the job of the clutch switch is? and
Do you have any tips for replacing the dash parts?

Again this is a fab write up. Thankyou :)
 

Arwyn Palmer

Registered User
Can anyone tell what the job of the clutch switch is? and
Do you have any tips for replacing the dash parts?

Again this is a fab write up. Thankyou :)

I believe the clutch switch is to aid in changing gear by doing something like holding the revs up for a moment, replacing the dash parts I did by trial and error, I remenber some of them being a pain to get siting back right but with a bit of swearing I got there in the end lol
 

skathosmike

Registered User
I believe the clutch switch is to aid in changing gear by doing something like holding the revs up for a moment, replacing the dash parts I did by trial and error, I remenber some of them being a pain to get siting back right but with a bit of swearing I got there in the end lol
Thanks again for the info :)
 

Red Ed

Registered User
Thanks for the very useful guide which helped me to replace my clutch pedal after the weld broke (A3 8L with 158k miles).

The main white plastic clip, the black plastic clip and the bushes, needed to be ordered separately to the pedal.

I found that jamming the pedal against the bracket was too troublesome so didn't bother. It was very easy instead to position the spring against the bulkhead at one end and rest it upon the pedal arm at the other. Then by simply compressing the spring a little using both hands it could easily be pushed into its final position.

I struggled initially to remove the pedal rubber but succeeded by using bicycle tyre levers. To get it on to the new pedal I soaked it in hot water for ten minutes then it was much easier, again using tyre levers.

For anyone stuck at the roadside with this issue the RAC showed me a neat solution to get me home. They simply fixed two bolts through the pedal arm which held the ball of the master cyclinder arm. Photos attached.

SAM_4224.JPG SAM_4225.JPG
 

davejh666

Registered User
Thanks very much for this guide.

I bought my TT about 2 months ago and it had a squeaky pedal. I noticed about 2 weeks back that I had sideways movement from the pedal as well. Goggled online and this thread came up. Ordered all the parts needed yesterday and got it fitted today.

It wasn't quite what I was expecting! When I took the old pedal off I expected a load of bits to be broke, but all the welds etc were all still in place. What was missing altogether though was the metal cylinder and the two bushes, so the 13mm bolt was just flapping about in the pedal, which I am guessing was were the squeak was coming from and most definitely where the sideways movement was coming from.

What is most annoying is that the pedal was replaced 4 years ago - by an Audi dealership. Good mind to phone them up, but no point I guess.

Anyway, thanks very much for such a well written and informative guide
 

manikm

Registered User
Excellent. The best post for replacing the damn poorly designed clutch pedal, the trick of pushing the pedal to the side is genius . this post has saved so many of us. Thank you!!!
 

Haddock82

Registered User
Old thread ressurection!

I signed up on this forum simply to say THANKYOU!

Excellent guide and easy to follow, the spring was a bit of a pain to get back in place but got there in the end

Did this on my 1999 Audi TT today after the clutch pedal shot down to the floor! Was expecting the worst but followed your guide and all is well again

I opted to re-weld the bracket as didnt have time to get a new pedal

Again thanks for the guide, really useful!

Will.
 

StefL

Registered User
Hi this is just what I was looking for, excellently wrote btw. In fact it's genius. I hope I get a reply very soon, my pedal has just hit the floor and in the foot rest was some plastic and 1 piece of Metal quite obviously snapped off from somewhere I cannot see. My question is would this be the same on my car, it's a year 2000 Mk 4 VW Golf GT TDI 1900? I really want to do this myself but I just want to know if it's the same as this one in the post. Thank you and hope for a reply!
 

StefL

Registered User
Thanks manikm, just ordered the parts from VW it was £50 with all the bits like the rubber end cap and the white plastic sleeve shown in this thread, just one more thing does my car have a clutch cable. Sounds silly I know. I'm just working lots and haven't had chance to fully investigate it yet.
 

StefL

Registered User
Hi i just want to say that the cost of my pedal was £50 total including a rubber end stop, white clip, plasting switch stop, metal insert for the bolt and two end bushes. I asked the guy at the parts department to include all the necessary parts to complete the job so i dont know if the pedal is supplied with these, probably not but the cost for the bits was under £10. It just goes to show the price difference since this post was wrote in 2012. so VW not only rack the price up but the quality is just the same. Going to fit this tomorrow but after reading this several time it seems straight forward. #hatepayinglabour :-0
 

manikm

Registered User
U will be working upside down. Be careful of your neck and back. Not having to compress the spring using his trick is a god send

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StefL

Registered User
Hi manikm I managed to do it found getting the bolt out very fiddly and the spring wasn't straight forward. I tried to push the pedal to the right and I did understand and see the lip but unfortunately no matter how hard I pushed it it wouldn't sit behind the lip so I went to plan B and placed it in a bench Vice squeezed it together and put a tie wrap around it. Once I fitted it I just cut it off with a Stanley knife. I also had a bit of trouble getting the white clip to engage and snap home but with a screwdriver and a bit of twisting I managed to lock it in place. Now it's all done and working correctly. Backs and neck are ok I'm just glad I'm 5:9 and slim build didn't really want to take the seat out. Here are some pics of my old parts. Thanks everybody for the sound advice and I hope it helps someone else who has to do it.
 

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manikm

Registered User
Well done. Audi should have recalled this badly designed pedal. Could leave someone totally stranded.

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StefL

Registered User
I'm afraid it's cost and can we really trust VW now with there emissions fraud? German made was what they sold cars and parts with, the quality etc. It's nothing different than cheap China ****. You try bleeding a golf breaking system. It gets full of air and you will not get it out until it's plugged in and the anti break system has been purged. The Mk 4 golf has issues with coolant loss and over heating problems the list is endless and the worrying thing is they don't know what's causing it, they suggest change the water pump, head gasket has gone, people have done all this and paid them 1000s and the problem still comes back. I will never buy another VW as long as I like.
 
I did this about 12 months ago and the new pedal was £27, can't remember whether that was plus VAT or not. I chose not to buy the pedal and welded up the old one, I did buy the black plastic and the white plastic part though which were only a few pounds.
 

Allan Napier

Registered User
Hi. Thank you very much for this post. I have a 2002 Jetta / Bora 4 TDI and it worked like a charm. The weld on the pedal broke and it went bang one quiet Sunday afternoon. I believe the pedal is the same on the Golf, Beetle etc from that time. Got a second hand pedal from the scrapyard. I could not hook in the pedal in position, but used a screwdriver to keep it up as high as possible. The key issue was to make sure the the white clip does not snap completely into place, to allow for some movement backwards. I used a cable tie to compress the spring a centimeter or so, and ironically it was the easiest part of the job. Once again thank you. PS I found this thread on google it saved me a lotof money ( in labour and a new clutch pedal ).
 
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manikm

Registered User
It's a gem this thread. Helping people time after time

U can do it without compressing the spring though

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