Facelift Replacement brake pads.
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Chris43
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I used to work for Ferodo that became Federal Mogul. One of the key requirements for brake pad material development was minimising brake dust deposits on alloy wheels. Clearly that gets overlooked these days. That said I don't find the pads on my A3 too bad.
ATE do a "ceramic" option, was looking to fit these when pads start to get a bit low. http://www.ate-brakes.com/products/disc-brakes/ate-ceramic-brake-pads/
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I've just put in the Ds2500's but haven't took much notice of brake dust but they are good at stopping the car!
Would these have the same initial cold bite as normal pads or do they need to heat up first before they are as effective?
This ^^^ but then it is a subjective. For some it is fine for others 'they lack the bite when could've
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In that case I'll probably have to put up with the rampant black crap all over the wheels. Most of my driving is around town so I don't think they'd really ever get up to temp or that I'd ever notice the extra stopping power. I just wanted to cut down on the junk the OEM pads chuck out.
Err! I did. That's why I asked if they had the same initial cold bite. I was told they need to heat up first to which I replied I won't bother then....! ??
You came in after a DS2500 post and looked like your question was asking about them specifically .
Most of the pads are ECE R90 thus they're not allowed to be poor when cold and are the same/similar as OE .
Most of the pads are ECE R90 thus they're not allowed to be poor when cold and are the same/similar as OE .
Ah, I see, my apologies. I was asking more in general than a particular pad.
So if I went for something like EBC Red stuff they would have similar initial bite when cold and I would have reduced brake dust? So what's the negatives then as you rarely get a free lunch. Why do they market them as fast road as to me that sounds like it's not what I want, is it just marketing for people who like that sort of thing?
Also do you have to do front and back at the same time as it's only the fronts that get dirty.
So if I went for something like EBC Red stuff they would have similar initial bite when cold and I would have reduced brake dust? So what's the negatives then as you rarely get a free lunch. Why do they market them as fast road as to me that sounds like it's not what I want, is it just marketing for people who like that sort of thing?
Also do you have to do front and back at the same time as it's only the fronts that get dirty.
No worries , a popular go to street / road pad now , S3 , S7 or RS3 everyone comments positively about the low dust of this pad containing some ceramic .
Braking cold is OE and I do recommend a full set for the full benefit .
A brake fluid refresh / higher spec for those who drive more enthusiasticly / braided brake hoses .
Braking cold is OE and I do recommend a full set for the full benefit .
A brake fluid refresh / higher spec for those who drive more enthusiasticly / braided brake hoses .
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!Brake pads must offer the same cold "bite" as the OEM pad in order to be road legal.
For road cars, brake pads must be R90 marked which requires that the pad have the same friction characteristics as OEM under both cold and warm operating temperatures. This also means that pads with more "bite" than OEM fail R90 testing, as well as ones with less. With a few exceptions, it is illegal to use a modern car with non-R90 pads on the road.
The difference with "fast road" pads is that they are formulated to retain their performance at higher temperatures than typical OEM pads, while still meeting the OEM specifications at cold and normal temperatures where R90 testing is performed.
Similarly, you can get light track use pads, which work well at even higher temperatures, but still meet R90 specifications when cold or warm.
If you need even higher temperature operation for harder track use, then there are dedicated track pads, but because these formulations tend to sacrifice cold performance for better high temperature performance, they usually fail R90 testing and cannot be used on the road.
There are trade-offs with pad design: cost, noise, life, etc. My own experience with EBC red stuff is that they are expensive than OEM, and don't last as long - but produce less dust and put much less wear on the discs, while retaining OEM noise and vibration levels. Yellow stuff are even more expensive, produce tons of dust, eat the discs and are noisier.
Subjective because it depends on the discs , hard discs higher pad wear and vice versa , grooved also.
Always though of OE /oem as fast wearing because half the pad ends up on the alloy after 5 miles , lol .
Always though of OE /oem as fast wearing because half the pad ends up on the alloy after 5 miles , lol .
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First a bit of house cleaning.
@mike - thanks for that it made me chuckle. I did question whether you could see the red of the backing plate and if I'd look like a Chav.
@SAM - the wheels are ceramic coated and do clean up easily
@mike again - I wash it every week, but they look crap after 5 or 10 miles as the OEM pads throw so much crap out they are a joke.
I don't think I'll bother as I've just had new discs and pads fitted on the front due to another claim and if I need to change them all I can't be ***** trying to get someone to reset the rears for me.
@mike - thanks for that it made me chuckle. I did question whether you could see the red of the backing plate and if I'd look like a Chav.
@SAM - the wheels are ceramic coated and do clean up easily
@mike again - I wash it every week, but they look crap after 5 or 10 miles as the OEM pads throw so much crap out they are a joke.
I don't think I'll bother as I've just had new discs and pads fitted on the front due to another claim and if I need to change them all I can't be ***** trying to get someone to reset the rears for me.
