Replace oil squirter and connecting rod?

[ils0161]

Hello from S.Korea.
I bought 2001 S3 about a month ago and one day I heard a tickling noise from the engine.
Disassembly cylinder head and I noticed 4th exhaust cam and follower are damaged more than others.
So I replace it with genuine parts, but I heard the same noise again.
The car shop mechanic said it must be the connecting rod bearing failure sound, so I opened the oil pan and I saw the broken oil squirter lying on the pan, and 4th connecting rod is bent, but bearing was fine.

So here is my question;
Is it possible to replace the connecting rod and oil squirter without taking out the engine from the car?
I think it seems to be possible to replace the connecting rod, just remove the cylinder head, unscrew connecting rod bolts and push up the connecting rod but I'm not sure..

 

[hydro s3]

Hi mate good to see new members on here.
Sorry cant help with your problems but I know some of the other guys will be on and will definitely be able to help.

 

[Bluepower]

The way you describe, is the way if you want to remove a connecting rod.. But, being a broken oil spuirter, you need to the check the rest of the engine VERY GOOD, because most likely there will be metal parts going around your engine. My advice: get the engine out, dismantle, check everything and then rebuild.

 

[desertstorm]

Hi, I presume the engine is mapped as the OE cheese rods don't bend on a standard engine. Normally you could just replace the rod and squirter quite easily if it had been on one of the other cylinders. Plenty of people have done this and gotten away with it. If the map has pops, bangs, two step etc these should be disabled as they also make it more likely for a rod to bend.
On cylinder 4 the one closest to the gearbox the crank timing ring gets in the way of changing the squirter. The only way to get the squirter out is by taking the crank out. This means the gearbox off and dropping the crank out.
Here's a picture of number 4 on my engine when the Wossner piston failed. I have ringed whats left of the squirter, you can see that the crank timing wheel is very much in the way of removing it.

 

[ils0161]

Hi mate good to see new members on here.
Sorry cant help with your problems but I know some of the other guys will be on and will definitely be able to help.

Thanks for the warm welcome!

 

[ils0161]

The way you describe, is the way if you want to remove a connecting rod.. But, being a broken oil spuirter, you need to the check the rest of the engine VERY GOOD, because most likely there will be metal parts going around your engine. My advice: get the engine out, dismantle, check everything and then rebuild.

I'd like to full disassembly whole engine but I'm running low on budget and no space and tools tho.. Thanks for the tip

 

[ils0161]

Hi, I presume the engine is mapped as the OE cheese rods don't bend on a standard engine. Normally you could just replace the rod and squirter quite easily if it had been on one of the other cylinders. Plenty of people have done this and gotten away with it. If the map has pops, bangs, two step etc these should be disabled as they also make it more likely for a rod to bend.
On cylinder 4 the one closest to the gearbox the crank timing ring gets in the way of changing the squirter. The only way to get the squirter out is by taking the crank out. This means the gearbox off and dropping the crank out.
Here's a picture of number 4 on my engine when the Wossner piston failed. I have ringed whats left of the squirter, you can see that the crank timing wheel is very much in the way of removing it.
View attachment 214008

Yep, it's running with the revo stage 2 with the genuine rods Is there any possible ways to take out oil squirter without crankshaft jobs? It seems to be using smaller tools to avoid crankshaft-counter balance and take out..

 

[desertstorm]

You have to remove the rest of the bolt from the broken squirter. The head brakes off the bolt and leaves the thread which needs to be removed. No real way to do it with the crank in there isn't room to get a bolt in or out.

 

[ils0161]

You have to remove the rest of the bolt from the broken squirter. The head brakes off the bolt and leaves the thread which needs to be removed. No real way to do it with the crank in there isn't room to get a bolt in or out.

Oh... Things are gonna be real mess... Maybe I should spend whole weekend to do it. Thanks for the reply!!